BillDC

Jim Eby is putting insert type bearings in his Series 11. Might try to DM him on Facebook...

Hey, great adventure. Looks like a good ACN article, hint hint.... Bill

My fix for this is to pull the plug, hand crank the engine to lower the piston, stuff as much cotton rope into the cylinder that you can then hand crank the engine to raise the piston. Now the valve can't fall out so remove the spring. Grab the valve with some vise grips and work it up and down and rotate it while dribbling Sea Foam down the stem. That will loosen it up and you'll be back on the road. Cheers, Bill

Hey All, I need to replace the roof on my 1928 12-B. Looking for a source of the drip rail. Anybody done that project or know of a good source? Thanks, Bill

Posted for a friend, if you have any info his email is below.. Thanks, Bill The gas tank in my car rotted out and i took it out and repaired. However, in the process of removing it, the tube with the fuel line and the gauge on it had the cap break off. See the photo. Do you have access to a gas gauge, or know how to attach it with only 2 or 3 threads left on it? your help is appreciated. Jack Stang baumholder268@yahoo.com

Semi-period picture from one of Dad's high school road trips in his 1919 9B. This is the same car my brother Jim drove on his 9,000+ mile road trip in 2018.

I could create a 'Period Photos' section on the club website if folks could send me enough images of interest. Problem with FB is that the images are kind of a one time viewing option as they roll down and out of sight in relatively short time. The club website would be easier to browse. If you have a caption or story, even better. Send photos to the Gmail address: Rivendellracing or message me from this forum. Cheers, Bill Eby

There is a fellow here in Virginia who I believe has made tanks for other Franklins. Used to work ar White Post. His name is Thetan Ogle, phone 540-three zero three-7377. Bill

Hi All, In our continuing efforts to keep the club web site as helpful as possible, it now contains the ability to search the ACN's and FSS's by article or topic. This is now available on the Members Only page in the Publications box at the top. Big thanks to Roy Canfield who updated the Index in a way that made it easy to use as the basis of a search engine, and his index is still available on the web as an additional excellent resource. Search on a topic, article name, author, person, or whatever. The search will list the article and clicking on the link will take you to the issue, and in many cases to the page in that issue. There are many FSS's that are not on the web, so not every hit will be a link, but the search result will give you the issue and page for a physical lookup. I hope you all like this new feature. Bill Eby

Hi, Does anyone know a source for BUDA engine bearings, and/or out of production Federal Mogul Bearings. I'm looking for part number 8880 SB (code on the back of mine are 8880 SB FW DW STD. My clearances look OK, and the journals OK, but the bearings are pretty torn up, so I'd like to replace them. Thanks, Bill Eby 202-four-one-five-3037

Hi All, The service vendors, merchandise vendors, parts vendors and general references on the Franklin Club web site (other than the specific ads posted by members) have not been updated or reviewed for quite a while. These are on the FORSALE tab under parts, services & vendors, and merchandise, as well as on the TECH tab. Does anyone have any suggestions of any vendors that we are missing and should be put up on the web to help us all out, or vendors that are listed that are no longer relevant? Let me know and we will update the website to keep it up to date for our members and others looking for help. Cheers, Bill Eby

Hi, Does anyone have a source or go-to guy for spring pivot bolts (series 12B)? Do you have to have new ones made, is there some old stock, or can a machine shop build up worn bolts to original diameters? I am working on ending front end wabble, so I put a big herken wrench on all four joints on the front springs at the pivot points and got a little movement on one pivot. I pulled the bolt and it is out of round by approximately .020. Is that enough to create wabble? I suspect that that particular bold was not tight, due to the fact that I could tap it back and forth before taking off the castle nut. Should I just put it back together and make sure the nut is tight(er)? It was well lubricated, and the grease passages seem to be clear. Appreciate any thoughts.... Cheers, Bill

Hi. I am posting this ad for Dean Diefenderfer. He is looking for 2 window regulator lift channels for his 1925 series 11A . Also, the windshield seal that mounts into a groove on the body around the windshield frame . Email Dean at dcdiefenderfer@aol.com if you can help or provide a lead. Thanks, Bill

Folks, The following was set to the FSS editor. Thought I would put it up here to get some eyes on it before his ad appears in the FSS. Let me know if you can help and I will forward you Victor's email address. Bill Eby The motor of my 1925 11A sedan has suffered a catastrophic failure which leaves me needing a replacement cylinder block (crankcase). Would you kindly let me know if it possible for me to place a quuarter page advert in the next issue of FSS in the hope that I might find someone who has a block that might be for sale. I am, of course, happy to pay the appropriate fee. Best Regards Victor Holliday ENGLAND

Teresa's email is TERESA CARVER <carvertd@gmail.com>

I know this is late info, but the club received this note and so far there haven't been any takers. If you are interested, contact Carver below: Subject: Re: seeking information on a potential 1913-18 Franklin sedan Dear Mr. Harrison, My name is Teresa Carver. I am Area Coordinator of Antique Cars for the Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Organization in Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. I have a group who is wishing to recreate a period photo that was part of their 50th anniversary celebration, and they have requested our assistance. However, I do not have a lead on the forefront auto of the picture, which we believe is a Franklin sedan from somewhere around 1915 (as the picture is dated 1919) What they believe they want to do is to actually create a video that begins with this photo and then pans into a real live scene staged like the photo to begin the introduction into the 150th anniversary celebration. I have no problem with the 4 background autos as I believe I can pass off model T tourings for those and I have plenty of access within my local exhibitors. The Franklin however is my problem at this point. Do you possibly know of anyone near who might be willing to help out the ladies PEO organization with their grand project? We will be filming this on the Old Threshers grounds sometime in July if we can get a car nailed down. I don't think I can pass off a 1912 Overland as a Franklin even with laying a Franklin hood over the top of it... Any assistance you might provide will be greatly appreciated.

Hey Matt, Can't offer any advice on your question, I am sure somebody will have the answer for you soon. Just wanted to say I look forward to seeing the progress, and great to hear that things are coming together. Have fun. Bill Eby

Hi Jim, The Franklin web site has the following info. QUESTION: HYD BRAKE TUBING Hi: After reading the latest FSS, I am more confused than ever about replacing Franklin brake lines. I replaced mine in the 12B last year with Cunifer brake line material. I flared everything with single flares just like the original copper. I had no problems at all making the flares, and there have been no problems at all with the braking system. Soon after finishing that project, I read the article in Skinned Knuckles about installing Cunifer brake lines. The article said the flares should not be single fares, but should be double flares. I immediately becamed concerned, but not quite enough to do the job over. It seemed like I had done a job that was a little better than what the car had for the first 80 years. The recent FSS article says never use double flares with the original Franklin fittings. So, that makes me feel better about the job on my car. However, my Father wants me to install new brake lines and hoses in his 145. What should I do? Single flares? Doubles? David P.S. The FSS article called the Franklin a low pressure brake system. Could you clarify that? ANSWER: HYD BRAKE TUBING David, I haven't read the Skinned Knuckles artical you mentioned, but since they don't do as much coverage of Franklin era cars, I suspect they may be refering to later brake systems where double flairs are more common. The double flair not only gives more crush, but it is meant for higher pressure systems than a Franklin is. Double flaired type fittings have the nessassary longer thread engagement needed to give enough room within the tightened fitting for the folded over flair and still have enough threads caught to give maximum strength without resorting to over-tightening. For all Franklins using the original style 'tapered flair nuts', stick with a single flair as you've done already. Say hi to your folks for me. Paul Fitz. …………….. Hope this helps. Bill Eby PS, Are you a member of the club? If not I urge you to join up, lots more good info is available.

Here's some info from Dad Bill Eby : In the early 1940's the only tires I could buy for my 9B was well worn used tires from auto salvage yards. I got lots of practice changing tires on snap ring type rims. In this case practice does not make perfect. But I have one suggestion in addition to what is already said. Buy yourself a tool that keeps the valve stem in control. It is essentially a short length of flexible metal wire with a cap on one end that you poke through the rim stem hole and screw it fast to the end of the valve stem before completely sliding the tire onto the rim. The other end has something on it that can not escape through the hole. In the case of my current tool it is a couple of valve stem tools. After the tire is completely on the rim the valve stem is pulled into place by pulling the tool. It simplifies the retreival of the valve stem out of the tire and getting it seated in the hole. The last tool I bought was about five years ago at an auto parts store. See attached photo. Wendell

Hi Bob, How about something to do with gauges and/or switches. How difficult is it to fix, say a gas gauge (electric) or ammeter, or oil level gauge? Or is this the territory of strictly pros? How about ignition or light switches? How easy is it to fix them? How about how to install seat belts for folks who want them? Or how about someone to talk about insurance - advantages/disadvantages of various kinds/companies? Bill

My sister has contributed the following alternative that comes from an 1883 treatise written to provide helpful instructions for the surveyors of the public domain. Along with surveying instructions it contains information on outfitting, etc. "The following is a cheap and simple process for rendering tents, wagon-covers, etc., water-proof, without stiffening them : Dissolve soft soap in hot water, add a solution of sulphate of iron (copperas). The sulphuric acid combines with the potash in the soap, and the oxide of iron is precipitated with the fatty acid, forming in soluable soap. Wash and dry this precipitate, mix with linseed oil, and with or without the addition of dissolved india rubber, a paint is obtained which renders all fabrics to which it is applied, impervious to moisture." For your amusement... Bill Eby

I would like to follow up on this thread. My 1928 Victoria Brougham roof is not waterproof in a hard rain. It does OK in a light rain, but a heavy or prolonged shower soaks the fabric through and water starts to drip onto the rear passengers. I am pretty sure it is not a leak or tear, but is soaking through the fabric. It appears to have been coated with something at one point in its life, but not sure with what. I admit that I have not done a lot of research - hence my question to the Franklin community, who has a good idea what to put on it? I have found the following options, and there may be more. A. Simple lacquer paint with plasticizers in it. (Franklin Q&A) B. Rubberized black paint used on blackwall tires, if it can be found anymore (Franklin Q&A) From the FordBarn blog: C. "Black top dressing" from Mac's Antique Auto Parts, part # RSP70 - doesn't say what its made from. (also mentioned above in the Franklin forum) D. "Top Dressing, Black for closed cars" from Bob's Antique Auto parts, part # M0255 - doesn't say what its made from. (also mentioned on AACA Packard forum) E. "Black Tire Paint" from M.E.Miller tire, part # E844Q - doesn't say what its made from, but is apparently water based, and claims to soak into tire and can cover white walls, or raised white letters. F. Black oil-based enamel paint. G. "Black Vinyl top reconditioner" from Griots Garage, part # 15570 H. Dykes Encyclopedia has the following formula that it describes as a dressing for leather tops: one part liquid asphaltum to two parts castor oil to which 1/2 ounce of ivory black is added to each pint of mixture. (Asphaltum appears to be available from printing suppliers such as Takach Press Fine Art printmaking, and ivory black from artist supply stores.) Further Googling brings up the following options: I. The Autoglym Cabriolet Fabric Hood Maintenance Kit consists of two products, fabric cleaner to remove soiling, stains & traffic film & a fabric protector to re-proof & preserve the hood from the effects of water absorption & traffic film soiling. Suitable for use on mohair, double duck & fabric / canvas car hoods as well as boat canopies, tents & caravan awnings. (Comes from England, therefore hood = convertible top.) J. Finally someone I thought I overheard said that you could mix linseed oil and carbon black to make a top dressing. What's your vote? As an aside, I thought that I also recall someone telling me that the original roofing fabric had a grain to it. If so, the dressing/coating that is on it now is so thick that any graining on the original fabric is covered up. That being the case, would it make any difference which of the above choices that I made to recoat the top? Thanks, Bill Eby

Scott, Thanks for your reply. Why the counter man did not tell me there were two choices of replacement bearings for the numbers in the parts manual I don't know. But he is going to get a chance to tell me. The method for aligning the transmission with the engine is described on page 73 of the Series Nine Instruction Book. And the tools for doing it are described on Factory drawings 26802, 3, 5 and 6. Attached is a photograph we took after installing the tool I made. It's not as pretty as described in the drawings but it did the job. We had to shim the transmission mounting a little bit to align it. Don't know if this is any help for your series 10 Wendell Eby

Early this year we tore the transmission apart on my 9b Franklin because one of the bearings was noisy. It bugged me and I broke my policy of "Don't fix things that are working" Not only did we replace the noisy bearing as long as we had it apart we replaced all five with new angular contact ball bearings. I live in a part of the country where automobile hill climbing is not a necessity and the transmission worked OK while driving around here. Then I took the car to the Trek. It would not stay in second gear on those steep New York hills. It would slowly push the lever out of the indent and finally pop out of gear. I quickly learned that I would need to let up on the power occasionally to let it pop back fully into second gear. What did we do wrong and what to do to correct it? That is the question. I'm thinking it has to be the result of tearing down and putting together with new bearings. I use SAE 140 General Purpose Gear oil (same as the last 70 years) Can not see any cracks in the transmission case Indent springs have good tension. Transmission sounds same as ever. That kind of leaves me thinking about bearings. The race on the new ACB bearings were not stamped THRUST as the originals were. If we happened to get one in backward would that cause the shafts to be misaligned to cause gears to creep sideways? In reading the bearing data on the internet there is much said about preloading ACBBs. But I did not see anything as to whether preloading is required. Am I right or will they work OK with no preload? The Franklin factory drawing calls for .010" thick vellumoid transmission gaskets. The thinest I could find was about .013". Thicker gasket in bottom shaft cap = less preload (or more endplay). That is if Franklin milled the case in 1919 to accomodate ACBBs (which I don't believe existed at that time). Top shaft we adjusted to no end play and probably a little bit of preload. Required the same shim as with the old bearings. Would the increase in allowable end play in the bottom shaft cause gears to mesh improparily using ACBBs? Should I put the old bearings back in? (except the noisy one) I did not keep track of which bearing went in which location. That being said should I have bought radial ball bearings instead of ACB bearings? With straight cut gears I assume the bearing axial load would be rather small and radial load the major load if everything is in alignment? I went back to Applied Industrial Technologies who sold me the bearings and asked if ACB bearings were the only kind available in that size. Guess what, they are not. They never mentioned that I had the choice of radial bearings when I purchased the ACB's. . Wendell Eby

Bob, OK, thanks. Someone called this summer and didn't leave a name or number asking about Zeniths on 28 Victorias. Hopefully he will call back. I am no expert on plugs, but the last Franklin club newsletter (Franklin Service Station) had an article on plugs, and if I understand the chart correctly, the W-95D plugs are the hottest of all the options for 7/8" plugs. Also according to the newsletter, one would only run hot plugs in our Franklins if you do mostly slow speeds, easy, low rpm driving.