Tcsir,
Good point, particularly since I am about to get the rebuilt Red Head engine in my 72 installed. It will be interesting to see what the difference is between them
Since it starts, I didn’t have to do a compression check. When I looked into how I would check it I found I didn’t have an adaptor that fit an 7/8” plug. I sourced a Model A Ford adapter that allows you to use 14 mm plugs. Problem solved,
Got some paint on it this AM. Lots to go. Hood, dash, golf bag door, rumble lid, hood rails and front apron.
Not so sure of the color, but it is growing on me, particularly since it would have cost $1000 but came with the car.
Ip,
That would help. Regardless to whether it is RHD or LHD the battery and the starter are in the same place so the wiring would be the same I would think.
Thank you.
Found the vacuum port was open to atmosphere as a result of putting in the electric pump and disconnecting the vacuum tank, so it was not sucking air thru the carb.
Put in a 1/8" pipe plug and it fired right up for the first time in probably 40 years or so.
I think I am on to something.
I have satisfied myself that the car is properly timed, points are adjusted and spark is getting to the plugs, that leaves fuel and air as the only issue.
Since is backfired once, I believe that it has compression, but I ordered a Model A Ford 14mm spark plug adapter to hook up my compression gauge to be sure.
I started to think about vacuum and this car has had the vacuum tank bypassed for the electric fuel pump.
I checked the intake and the vacuum port is open to the atmosphere and is located probably 4-6 inches up stream from the carb. since it has a 45 degree adapter to get the BB-1 to fit around the generator.
My thinking is it is pulling air directly from the atmosphere without going thru the carb.
I will plug it with a 1/8" NPT plug and see what that does.
I have been told JB Machine In Baltimore converts Chrysler babbit bearing to inserts. I was told it was about $3K for a late '20's 6.
They might do other ones.
Bill