Spinneyhill

Members
  • Content count

    3,150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Spinneyhill

  1. 1927/1928 rear axle/diff rebuild

    That is the trouble I had. Then my adviser came along and told me I was finished and to put it in the car!
  2. 36 Plymouth P2 Transmission Issue

    On what basis? Did they look at comparable products? Frankly, I don't believe it and would like to see evidence. They all use different products as would be expected, but also there is very little knowledge about oil in the car fraternity. You would be better to drain it with a hot transmission, because, of course, the oil will be less viscous and more will drain out in the same amount of time.
  3. Studebaker Truck?

    Radiator cap looks a bit like a Dodge Ram!
  4. 28 dictator fuel pump

    Good one. That is actually a universal top and can be fitted to just about anything using the appropriate outlet port.
  5. 1926 Dodge Brothers Coolant Leak

    Should there be a carbon washer between the impeller and the housing?
  6. Can I reuse 1955 Packard 320 headbolts?

    Trouble is, if you don't have a lot of that "gubmint mandated junk", you would not be able to see 100 yards up the street in many cities (think of Beijing or Delhi) and the road toll would be at least 5 times what it is, not to mention the respiratory problems from PM10s and PM5s. Basically, there are too many people driving cars creating pollution and safety hazards. As well, half of them are below average drivers. Note that Paris has banned diesels within the inner city.
  7. Salesman's what??

    What is the top cage?
  8. Oil (Groan)

    Really? But SAE doesn't work like that? Surely Bob's chart shows that your 50 to 55 Saybolt = 7 CSt to 8.7 CSt and is in the SAE 20 number band. SAE 18.8 isn't defined? I have not seen SAE numbers defined like that. My reading is that they are an arbitrary set of numbered divisions. I hope I remember right.
  9. @Randiego Why are you posting here in a Buick restoration thread? @Daves1940Buick56S please see the discussion Gary references above. Your statement about GL-5 oil is a broad generalisation and not correct for many oils.
  10. Oil (Groan)

    It is quite difficult to get anything very accurate in that conversion because the test methods have changed (and they aren't really compatible) as have the definitions. I believe the first SAE viscosity numbers became available in 1924 and they were revised in 1938 to come into effect in 1939. Reference tables were printed for correlating Saybolt visocity to SAE viscosity numbers - I have such a table in a text book written in 1940. Terms such as "medium body" and "heavy body" were used prior to the SAE numbers being established. My 1930 Dodge 8 manual says engine oil should be Medium or Heavy Body Engine Oil (S.A.E. Viscosity No. 30 or 40) in the summer. For winter use, Medium Body engine oil, S.A.E. Viscosity No. 10 or No. 20) with low cold test for below freezing temperatures. Perhaps you see there an inkling of the development of multigrade oils later. Also note the range of "medium body" oil: S.A.E. 10 to 30! Just using the numbers alone, one might say use a modern 10W-30 or -40 oil.
  11. Sending For New Spoked Wheels

    Just make sure all the spokes on the wheel are the same! Some early cars had more than one section in each wheel.
  12. Chrysler 66 Identity

    Plus light from different angles and photos from different places with the light at different angles. A bit of light oil, like a penetrating oil, may also help to highlight the high spots once you have polished them.
  13. Oil (Groan)

    With reference to "recommendations" such as those from Penrite, I think the oil companies, to some degree, say what they think the questioner might want or be expecting to hear. It is widely "known", mainly fallaciously, that early engines have higher internal clearances. I am also a bit upset that The Filling Station continue to peddle on their web site the fallacy that one should use non-detergent oil. Total claptrap. If you want rubbish oil, the oil companies will make it for you.
  14. Love the colour and I like your choice of newspaper!
  15. Oil (Groan)

    Yes, but now they don't label it as "Steering Box Lube". They call it semi-fluid grease, which it is. Look for NLGI 00 grease formulated for applications with high contact pressure wiping motions.
  16. Oil (Groan)

    raydurr, the STP is a waste of money. You are just adding a viscosifier to increase the viscosity of the oil. Why? Engines don't "mind" anything: they wear if the oil is not appropriate. How do you know? Early overhaul. Simple. 20W-50 is too viscous! Read Widman's paper. I had variable oil pressure, very high on startup and some noise on startup. With 5W, startup is quiet. Oil pressure is almost the same at startup and after warm running. I often turn it over for a few seconds with the ignition off before starting, especially if it has sat a while, just to pump a bit of oil around. Exactly. They would have me running 20W-60! It is an engine, not a gearbox! I am astounded that Penrite told my friend to use that near-grease in his MG TD! I hope this makes sense. I am tired so probably a bit terse and full of typos. Sorry.
  17. 36 Plymouth P2 Transmission Issue

    To find out if your chosen oil is suitable for brass parts (i.e. that contain copper), look for the Copper Strip Corrosion Test ASTM D130 test results. They should be 1A (or maybe 1B). If they are not available for your chosen oil, find one for which they are. I have seen them in the oil's SDS. Gary W gave a good description of it in his thread on the restoration of his 1937 Buick in the Buick Pre War forum. PS. see post #322 on p. 13 and above and below it.
  18. 30 Chrysler Brake Cylinder Question

    There will be more force on the 1-3/8 end in the ratio of the area of 1-3/8 to 1-1/4 = 1.21. You MUST have the same on the other side if you do that. The larger bore goes on the leading shoe which is on the front. Is the master cylinder big enough? it will take extra fluid to operate the larger cylinders.
  19. Oil Pressure 1936 Studebaker 3A Coupe

    The most important thing is that you circulate oil and that should be happening.
  20. Multi vis vs. oil pressure?

    Not all SAE -30 oils have the same viscosity (there is a range they must be in to be called SAE -30) so the oil pressure will vary. Have a look at Widman's paper on it and see how they vary. http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html. You can see how the viscosity ranges and SAE grades compare with an oil chart like this from https://bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/: Keep out of SAE anyW-50 oil unless your engine is pretty worn, or to be blunt, stuffed. Your engine was probably designed for SAE 30 oil, maybe SAE 40 in the high summer when your temps are really high (90s).
  21. Oil (Groan)

    Firstly, search the Technical forum above. There is a request such as this about once a month. Secondly, the aim of oil is to lubricate, which minimises wear as well. Most wear occurs on cold start, so you should use an oil with a low first number (before the W). Think of the W as Winter = cold. Almost engines have been designed for about SAE 30 oil so you should use something like a 5W-30. These numbers refer to viscosity so a higher number means a "thicker" oil that is harder to pump. You want something that is very easy to pump on cold start, hence the low number before the W. As said above, the amount of zinc in oil is reducing over time. To get maximum zinc, use a diesel oil of CI-4 (or CJ-4) rating. These are basically tractor oils. The zinc may aid your flat tappets, although they do not work hard so it is debatable if you need a lot of zinc. To learn a bit about viscosity and zinc, read Richard Widman's paper about it at http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html. Thirdly, if you really want to minimise wear, use a synthetic oil. Wear tests show that ANY synthetic oil is better at minimising wear than ALL mineral oils. And you don't really need to worry about zinc in these oils, so just buy a high API-rated SAE 5W-30. If the engine is very worn, use a 5W-40, and I mean very worn, not just a little bit. Lastly, my story. On the basis of my reading after questions such as yours a few years ago, I changed from a 20W-50 to 5W-30 oil for my 1930 Dodge 8. The overall oil pressure is much more stable.
  22. Salesman's what??

    A sharpening tool? E.g. for sharpening chisels or wood turning chisels?
  23. Unknown truck

    Ah yes, of course it is. That was 35 years ago, so nearly right.
  24. Unknown fuel pump

  25. Unknown limo

    It looks to have rear entry - a door is open with a set of stairs to the ground. So a bus or similar it probably is.