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Everything posted by Spinneyhill

  1. Fluid Drive Stalling

    Did you do the compression test after a spoonful of oil in each cylinder (not on top of the valves, but into the cylinder)? This wet test will indicate if you have worn rings or not. Other wise, get a vacuum gauge and look up on the www how to diagnose the engine from the readings. The BXV-3 (?) is probably off an earlier model?
  2. Tire Cover

    Canvas shops, a.k.a. boat trimmers are the usual places I look.
  3. Thoughts on Brake Linings

    Of course! Steve has a floating anchor (duo servo?) so has two leading shoes. So the short end should be the top of the front shoe and the bottom of the rear shoe, to avoid spragging and grabbing.
  4. Brushes for starter motor

    There are oodles of brushes on eBay. The numbers you quote probably won't help. If it were mine, I would look for brushes by size and style - i.e. how the wire connects to them. You could try Myers and Bernbaum.
  5. Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    I don't know the engine or the thermostat you are working on. I am going through the same drama with my 1930 Dodge Brothers Eight. I have high temperatures in places on the head and the block, although if the IR thermometer gets near the distributor or a plug wire it seems to read high. I have had the radiator cleaned. I replaced the thermostat with one that works (I tested it) but it still overheated. The IR thermometer showed low temps above the thermostat so it wasn't opening. I think there was an air lock under it so I drilled a wee hole in it (whatever was in the drill press, probably about 2.5 mm). This allowed the air out and a tiny water circulation. The thermostat opened. It still overheats. I rebuilt the water pump last year. I have done the oxalic acid treatment (500 gms in the system of about 12 litres for five days.) I am preparing to remove the core plugs to clean out the block. It will be messy so I will remove the starter and generator (located below the core plugs) and cover the inside of the car (two plugs in the rear of the block) and the bell housing. I suppose I will also removed the water pump to give access to that end of the block, and shield the inside of the radiator. And tow the car to the grass outside. I am not look forward to this activity but it seems the only thing left to do. I just wish I had a "wet" vacuum cleaner to use on it! I will also be re-installing the panty hose "sock" in the radiator inlet hose to catch any left-over debris.
  6. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    I just realised I have had one of these cheap jacks for 25+ years. It works alright but is not so stable laterally if the floor is not flat. The only real problem with it is it doesn't stay up. I always use stands so that is not a problem. I also always put a block of wood on the top cup (I use 100 x 50) to reduce the chance of steel on steel slip. Its rating is 2 tonne, but I don't think it is good for much more than a tonne. Jacking that much requires a bit of force on the handle.
  7. Mystery engine - 1920s six

    It is a Big Tree Motor Spirit box. "Benzine" came to NZ in a four-gallon tin can in a wooden box until the end of 1924. Big Tree was a brand. I have an enamel Big Tree sign in the shed. The boxes and the cans were repurposed into many things over the years. The cans were carried on the running boards and discarded on the road side when used.
  8. Thoughts on Brake Linings

    http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/drumbrakes.html It seems the shorter lining on the leading edge is to prevent spragging and grabbing. This can occur with irregular wear, such as can occur with repeated high deceleration stops, e.g. in racing. So, Steve, take a bit of shoe off the leading edge of the leading shoe! If you want a bit of mathematics, here is some http://www.iaeng.org/publication/WCE2010/WCE2010_pp1216-1223.pdf
  9. Brake shoe primary or secondary?

    Why bother? ...My original thinking was that it didn't matter. I was wrong. Update. http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/drumbrakes.html says the shorter shoe on the leading end is to reduce the tendency to grab and sprag at times, esp. with irregular wear. This can occur with repeated high deceleration stops.
  10. Dash color

    Mine is body colour.
  11. Name written on the transmission!

    Maybe Mr Loera ran a workshop (transmissions or general mechanics) and the transmission was sent to him by a wrecker?
  12. 1930 Sedan Tire Pressure

    The 1930 Dodge Brothers Eight Instruction Book says the 5.50 x 18" balloon cord tires on the front (both of them) should be "exactly 40 pounds as measured with an accurate gauge for balloon tires". The rear tires "should be 35 pounds".
  13. Thoughts on Brake Linings

    I wonder if that short leading shoe is to prevent it jamming and grabbing on heavy application? May be able to remedy that on a longer shoe by chamfering the leading edge? That's the thing. I have not played with such a system with moving pivot! Too modern.
  14. America in Colour - a mid 1920s sedan rear view

    It almost looks like a NZ license plate, IY318, ca 1976-77.
  15. Mystery engine - 1920s six

    It looks slightly unusual to me. The carb heat pipe seems to go to the venturi area while the air intake is below? Or is that something else low down in front of the carburetor?
  16. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    I have wondered about the load ratings on things from China too. I have seen engine cranes that look identical, one cheap and one not so cheap. The member sizes and wall thicknesses are the same. The not so cheap one had half the rating of the other one. I suspect the Chinese rating is determined using different safety factors on the design load and we normally put an extra 0.5 or so in there. Getting something certified to our Standards raises the cost quite a bit.
  17. Need help identifying an old frame

    Dodge also used Delco Lovejoy.
  18. Another 1918 E49

    We are often a bit more base: "smile if you are h....y" or something equally naughty.
  19. Thoughts on Brake Linings

    I was always told and read that the primary shoe was the one that is pulled on by drum rotation, which is the front shoe when going forward with one cylinder. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake MoToR's manual, 1947, on p. 195 shows a drawing of Ford and Mercury 1946 brakes. There is one two-piston cylinder and two anchors. It is a LHS diagram: drum rotation is counter clockwise. The long shoe is the leading or primary shoe on the front and the short shoe is the trailing or secondary shoe on the rear. The short end of the trailing shoe is the bottom. Here is a diagram of the braking force with different systems, from Wikipedia (ref. above).
  20. How will expansion and contraction of the copper compare to that of the cylinders and the aluminium crankcase?
  21. Another 1918 E49

    Yep, that is why we call them mud guards!
  22. Overdrive Information 38 Buick...

    Yes, I think with a freewheeling unit on the back. There must also be a modification so one can go in reverse. As normally fitted, one must pull out the knob to lock the OD out (or more particularly, the freewheeling unit).
  23. Peerless 8U Engine Torque Specs

    Use the value for Grade 2 bolts in generic torque charts, referenced above. Just remember, if you replace the bolts with high strength bolts, you are still putting them into old low grade cast iron, so continue to use the Grade 2 values.
  24. Another 1918 E49

    Someone was asking for information about snubbers on a forum recently, but I can't recall which one... (small interval here) Here it is: We also call the defensive parts on front and rear bumpers. Fenders are used on boats to reduce the crunching on the wharf or jetty.
  25. I can only dream of tire prices like that! We have the long shipping distance and small market to thank for outrageous tire prices.