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About Spinneyhill

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1956

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  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    Tauranga, New Zealand


  • Biography
    1930 Dodge Brothers 8
    1939 Studebaker Coupe Express

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  1. Are the generator and starter made by McKinnon Industries rather than Anderson? If so what does the name tag look like?
  2. Just for comparison, I had a stuck exhaust valve in No. 6 and it popped through the carburetor. Actually, it blew back through the inlet valve when it opened and blew all the mixture in that end of the inlet manifold back out into the carb.. It ran but boy it was rough.
  3. Now isn't that fun? Where I am from, a Bonneville is a Triumph motorcycle and I am struggling to see where the centre link goes.
  4. How do the doors lock inside? Push buttons? If so you can spring the top of the door an inch or so with no damage and use a loop of plastic packing strap to hook the lock to get in. The key locks: a locksmith should be able to deal with that, maybe without taking them out? Ring some and ask. Else just hot-wire it and drive to locksmith?
  5. Width between springs? Any numbers cast in it? Pictures?
  6. Back to timing chains jumping a tooth. A story above reminded me of a friend working on a 1920s Hupmobile six cylinder. The pitch of one of the timing gears was different to the timing chain pitch and had been for a long time! The thing still ran fairly well but had worn the gear teeth to sharp, short points. It must have been pretty close to jumping a tooth or the chain actually falling off. The inside of the engine was lined with superfine metal powder in the oily gunk. It seemed he finally took it apart for a look because the chain was rattling a fair bit.
  7. Xclnt! Thank you very much. Along with photos you have previously posted, I now have a pretty good idea of how it works. I have always been perplexed by this. Repro. edge pieces came with my car when I bought it 20+ years ago but not the ends or the tab strip. I have wooden running boards that doesn't help visualise it either. I will have to imagine the running board dimensions to have some fabricated.
  8. Xclnt drawings. Thank you. How was the outer edge piece attached?
  9. Like this one I found on the www?
  10. What do you mean by "hot tanked"? If you mean degreased and paint stripped in a tank, caustic soda will do it. I bought one in a can labelled for drain cleaning; it was still caustic soda = lye = sodium hydroxide. I just used a plastic tub (HDPE?).
  11. If the drag link is similar to the Dodge 8 1930, it will have a ball, two seats and either one spring on one side of the ball or one spring on each side at the wheel end and the same arrangement around the ball on the steering arm. On mine you tighten the end plug fully then undo it 1.5 turns and insert cotter pin. Those springs are pretty powerful. I recommend you take it apart and look at the wear. Clean and reassemble with plenty of grease and new covers over the hole around the ball shaft (it keeps the grease in). If you have a bit of play, check the drag link both ends and the tie rod ends, as well as the steering spindles and the steering box. They all introduce "looseness" if worn. If the shaft the steering arm (a.k.a. Pitman arm) is attached to has worn bushes you will also get play.
  12. Good. SKF have a good interchange web page at www.skfpartsinfo.com on the interchange tab. If you type in either of the numbers you give you get a list of all numbers used for that size by manufacturers. Then if you click on the SKF number (17624) you will get a picture and on the attributes tab, the sizes: 2.814 OD, 1.75 shaft dia, 0.313 wide.
  13. I like it too, because it is unusual. They were not made for tall people. There is no seat adjustment other than the bottom of the back being able to come forward (!) a few inches. While the visor is like a flat cap accessory, it restricts visibility out for me, a tall person.
  14. Don't be fooled! It has had a frontal prang, not too hard but enough. The driver's (RH) door is not right at the bottom hinge, neither is the hinge (it doesn't open as far as it should). The cab seems to have come forward and has a broken mount at the left rear. I can't get the front panel gaps to line up properly; the cab needs to go back. You can see the uneven opening under the bonnet = hood, which is a result of this. The front bumper irons were all bent left before I straightened them. The paint is poor and 20 years ago I cleaned up the left rear fender (rust out, straightened etc) but never painted it. There is a little rust in the bottom front of the other rear mudguard and a few bubbles in the back of the cab at belt line and bottom.
  15. That is xclnt. Thank you. They curve in much more quickly at the back than I expected. Mine has adapted '38 Commander rear mudguards = fenders. Mine is very dirty and surrounded by stuff = hard to photograph. Here is one from before 1993 (when I took the front suspension out for overhaul and it hasn't run since).