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About Spinneyhill

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1956

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  • Location:
    Tauranga, New Zealand


  • Biography
    1930 Dodge Brothers 8
    1939 Studebaker Coupe Express

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  1. 1938 Buick Century Fuel Sending Unit...

    I would probably fill the tube with dry sand rather than salt when bending it. Sand doesn't crush as easily as salt. As the salt crushes, it occupies less volume (the smaller particles fill the spaces between the bigger ones). P.S. silica sand, not coral sand!
  2. Auto in old photo

    I think she is squinting in the sunlight, which is coming onto the left side of her face. Probably also trying to stand still for the photo with a longish exposure. Those are not wires of any sort. They are cracks in the photo surface. The lady's shoes are early to mid '20s too.
  3. 1935 buick 56s overheating

    What is the spring pushing on again? Some kind of thermostat-like device? Is it failing to open at all? Is the return water way completely closed? I just went through this with my Dodge 8. It pumped coolant out. It came home on a flat bed tow truck. I bought an IR thermometer and determined it was pumping fluid when the thermostat should have opened. I had the radiator cleaned (rodded) - I tried the air and water sparging but not enough came out. It pumped coolant out when the clean radiator went back in. Again, when the thermostat should have opened. I notice the outlet neck on top of the head was cool, meaning the thermostat was not opening. I tested it: sticking closed. I replaced it with a new one that worked (I tested it). It pumped coolant again. Grrrrr. The outlet neck on the head was still cool. There was a lot of gurgling as I refilled the coolant and the refill was slow. I guessed the thermostat was blocking air coming through as the engine filled with coolant, so there was an air bubble under the thermostat. Air is not a good conductor of heat so the thermostat stayed closed. I drilled a wee hole in it - about 2.5 mm, whatever the drill was in the drill press. This allowed air out of the block and head and a tiny circulation of water during warmup. That fixed it! Put the thermostat back in! You want the fastest warmup possible to minimise wear, most of which occurs when the engine and oil are cold on startup.
  4. 1938 Oldsmobile pickup truck

    If you look at the brass weight tag, you will find the clue. The bottom line says "GENERAL MOTORS -HOLDENS LTD". The aluminium stamped tag above the brass plate has "HOLDEN'S" on the first line. It was made in Australia for that market. It has been in the Netherlands (the NL sticker) and is currently in Belgium.
  5. 1938 Oldsmobile pickup truck

    Ref. rebadging, my friend had a 1935 Chrysler that was a factory badge engineered PJ Plymouth.
  6. 1923 Buick

    How old is the petrol? Is it still good? Have you got fuel in the carb?
  7. 1929-1930 Dodge Stromberg carburetors

    The Dodge Brothers 8 used a downdraft carb., Stromberg DX-3.
  8. 1929 DeSoto project,windshield wiper questions.

    If you do a search of these fora, you should find at least one document that people have posted on servicing wiper motors. I would start here then head to Technical and try that one. You could also look at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/wiper
  9. Headlights

    Turn on the lights, then attach a separate earth wire to the head light shell. If the light improves, you have a poor ground. New bulbs won't fix that. My '30 DC Dodge Brothers has the original lights with 19 cp bulbs. They are fine for night driving for me. From memory, they are "prefocus" so the bulb needs to be in the right place in front of the reflector. Also from memory, the screw in the centre rear of the head light is used to adjust the bulb position, forward and back.
  10. Window Install?

    Water alone is a rubber lubricant so you may not need the soap. Use a minimum though - anything left under the rubber will probably stay there a long time.
  11. Fuel Pump 1938 Century...

    The "large dome" is perhaps one of the one-way valve housings? Earlier pumps had flat top brass bolt-headed caps in there. I don't know what the benefit was with the domed valve - I haven't inspected one. And where is the "right side"? And how big is "large"? Perhaps a picture would help. Looking at the pictures you posted above, is it the dome over the outlet one way valve? The brass ones like on the inlet of the pump you picture work too - that is what I was referring to. Are you saying the vacuum port is at 180o to where you need it? Just take the part off and put it back on where you need it? i think I might have an exploded diagram.... Here is MoToR's Manual blurb about the model AB:
  12. 1920s closed car

    That is the motormeter on the radiator.
  13. 1929 President/ Commander Eight parts

    Look at his posts. His email address is usually stated at the bottom. Here is one.
  14. wanted engine rebuild parts for a 1930 engine

    Here is a little info. in Chrco engines: https://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html Somewhere on that site I think there is a list of the engines against year. You might get more traction asking about Chrysler engines in the Chrysler forum.
  15. 30 cf emergency brake

    How about a picture from the front so we can see what has happened to the ratchet piece that the bent rod should go through?