Akstraw

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About Akstraw

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 11/08/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Hickory, NC, USA
  • Interests:
    1914 Maxwell 25 Roadster
    1915 Buick C25 Touring
    1922 Marmon 34B Touring
    1929 AA Ford Truck
    1956 Cadillac Coupe deVille
    1972 Volvo 1800ES
    1987 BMW 325i Cabriolet
    2002 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet

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  1. Hi Terri and Kit, Welcome to the forum. It's nice to see your post here. Warm regards, Andrew
  2. Some of you may find this interesting. I have been working on a 1922 Marmon 34 for about 20 months. The car I bought had been stripped and re-painted many years ago, with no external trace left of the original color. Though when I removed the aluminum body skin from the original wooden substructure, I found several traces of blue paint that had seeped between the wood and aluminum at the holes for the top fasteners, presumably at the factory. This led me to believe that the original color was blue; one of the two standard colors offered that year. Recently, I removed the VIN plate from the inside firewall. While one can never be certain, I believe the VIN plate had never been removed before. What I found on the back of the VIN plate was the following word written in pencil: “blue”. I believe the penciled word to be an original factory marking. So if you are curious about the original color of your Marmon, it could possibly be written on the backside of your VIN plate as well. "It's a Great Automobile" Andrew
  3. I suggest that you try Dick Shappy in Rhode Island. Good luck!
  4. "There were Maxwells, and GOOD Maxwells, does anyone know what category this one falls into? Just curious. Edited 22 hours ago by JFranklin (see edit history) " Somewhere around 1919-1921 (I need to check the year), the Maxwells developed a reputation for having a fragile rear end. I think the axles would break rather easily. The cars got a reputation for being shoddy. When Maxwell fixed the problem, they launched an advertising campaign to emphasize that the era of shoddiness was behind them. The term "Good Maxwell" was created and used by the company itself as part of this campaign to get beyond the axle issue. I think the lingering bad blood surrounding the Maxwell name contributed to Walter Chrysler's decision to re-name it the "Chrysler Four", and eventually "Plymouth" several years later. This particular one would be a "good" Maxwell. This looks like a nice car; relatively complete, and not banged up. I agree with the comments above about touring cars being most desirable, the early twenties not being the most popular era with collectors, and the advice about photography and presentation. Also recommend photos of the engine compartment. On cars of this age, the condition of the wooden substructure of the body has a big impact on value. A tight, sturdy wooden structure makes it a good candidate to use as-is, or restore; while a rotted, flimsy substructure presents a challenge, and could reduce it to "parts car" status. With a reasonably solid body, I would value this car in the $4000 to $8000 range. I also agree with the advice to start with $10,000 on a classified ad and come down, or try $4000 or $5000 to start on eBay and go up. Good luck. Is the car in Oregon? Andrew
  5. Well, it is the Antique Automobile Club "of America", so my guess would be on the low side; around 15.
  6. I agree that some of the shows are more drama than content. I must say, though, that I have learned quite a lot from several of them. I particularly like Chasing Classic Cars, which provides insight into the high end auction scene, and coverage of cars like the Stutz and Minerva that you just don't see anywhere else. Wayne Carini is a good advocate for maintaining original cars where appropriate, as well. I like the way Wheeler Dealers explain their mechanical procedures, and take the viewer into various shops to show the manufacturing and restoration processes for the replacement parts they buy. Like any other media, television has something for everybody. You can't expect to like them all, but there are some gems.
  7. When I started my project, I bought a few books that I found helpful. "Automotive Woodworking" by Roland Johnson is a fairly recent text that gives a good discussion on wood selection, tools, techniques, etc. I would recommend this book. "Antique Auto Body Wood Work for the Restorer" is a 1969 text that is actually a reprint of a 1914 text. It gives insight into how they actually did it back in the day, but has limited practical value for restorer today. Another book I found interesting all around is "The Principles of Automobile Body Design", a 1922 text by Kingston Forbes. Not a great woodworking reference, but an interesting book all around. You can read it for free on a number of web sites, or buy a reprint. Just be sure if you buy a reprint, to be sure the one you are ordering contains all the illustrations. There are some out there that include only the text, not the drawings. i think you are doing the right thing to research the wood. Perhaps your forestry office, furniture manufacturers or lumber trade association, or department of agriculture could be of help on the borer issue. I would take the stories of disintegrating furniture with a grain of salt. Good luck!
  8. Your local trim shop can do this for you.
  9. I have been using ash in restoring a 1922 Marmon touring car. Most all references ash as the variety of choice for this application. My source is West Penn Hardwoods in Conover, NC. They ship lumber to and from all over the world. I suggest giving them a call; they may have the necessary permit to ship to CA. White Oak compares very well to ash in material properties, and would be a good alternative from a structural standpoint. My experience is that the two also are very similar to machine. The significant difference between Oak and Ash is the high acid content of the oak, which will result in discoloration around metal fasteners. This may not be an issue if the woodwork is ultimately painted or hidden from view.
  10. I got these multi-disk clutch parts with a load of Marmon parts. It is not the correct one for a Marmon 34B. Does anybody recognize them? What are they for? Thanks. Andrew
  11. My '14 Maxwell 25 currently has a Bosch magneto; no coil. I think the original had a Simms magneto.
  12. "Pigs Get Fat. Hogs get Slaughtered" I think NASCAR got greedy, adding more tracks, more dates, more seats, and expensive tickets while the economy was going the other way. And, as some have said above, got less entertaining to boot. At some point, the cost exceeds the entertainment value, and people just move on. There was an interesting article in Bloomberg Business Week a couple months ago about whether the NFL was getting too big and greedy, and headed for a decline as well.
  13. It is no secret that print media is on the decline. Car magazines are just a subset of that industry in general, and we are seeing survival of the fittest. Heck, here I am (and so are you) looking at this forum on an iPad in my liesure time. Ten years ago, I would have been reading a car magazine, or, perish the thought, a newspaper!
  14. I am looking for a nice cast iron clutch housing for a Marmon 34B. You can see in the attached photo that mine has a large chip on one flange at about the 7 o'clock position. I can use as is, but would prefer one that is fully intact if I can locate such a part. I do not need the plates, just the cast iron housing. I am also missing just one of the eight spring covers that press into the flywheel to cover the pressure plate springs. This part is roughly 2 inches tall, and one inch in diameter. I you have one of these spring covers available, I would be interested in getting it. Otherwise I will 3D print a plastic replacement. Thanks for looking. Please PM me if you can help. Andrew Straw
  15. I would like to have replacement linings made for the clutch disks in a Marmon 34B. I have the inner and outer diameter from the originals. Does anyone have an NOS disk or a spec sheet that would indicate what the thickness would be on a new disk lining? Mine, of course, are worn, so I can only speculate as to the original thickness. Thanks. Andrew Straw