• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About trini

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/09/1936


  • Biography
    retired mechanic
  1. How to remove Steering Wheel 1927 Dodge

    Hi Stuart, look below the hub there is a large circular dust shield, painted in black. It is attached below the hub. Use a sharp square screw driver and tap the edges down and away from the hub. It is tight fit on the hub so be gentle and prevent distortion. It drops down the steering column. Now look behind (below) the hub and you will see two screws. Remove the screws and the piece you want out can be removed. The steering nut will be exposed. If you need to remove the steering wheel the attached levers must be removed. Remove the attachment at the lower end including the horn wire. Pull them straight upwards. . The steering nut is not that robust so be careful when removing. Use a stock of aluminium block on the shaft to prevent damaging the threads of the shaft. Those 2 pins you show in your picture are fixed to a disc and must be anchored solid, so if they are loose, silver solder them back in place. That is needed to secure the gadgets at the top.. DO NOT LOOSE PEICES , REPLACEMENTS ARE DIFFICULT TO FIND. Clean the rods of old grease .You may encounter problems removing the horn wire from the tube .Sometimes they twist in the tube and you really have to use force. The wire terminal at the horn button is sealed and is not worth dismantling. Just splice a new piece as near as possible to the button. "Observe" on the outer shaft there are 2 bronze bushings. Save the "keys" Replacements do not fit properly" Dodge Brothers parts of that era are precise fit. In two 2 weeks from now I will be away for 4 months. Cheers and have a nice day.
  2. Head stud removal ,Help

    Removing broken head bolts from aluminum heads is more difficult than on a cast iron block. I would use the same method of drilling the bolt in the center and keep upsizing until close as possible to the edge of the stud. Or use a drill the size of the bolt. If you go a little off side is not a problem. Use a #2 brazing tip and warm the stud by pointing the flame into the hole using a small flame in a circular manner heating the inside of the "barrel". Use the heat and cool process a few times. It will loosen up the aluminium crud. Use this method if the hex is broken off. What you may also do is to drill through the hex right through the bolt. The next step will be to take out the pieces from the block. There is no magic wand.
  3. Head stud removal ,Help

    Removing head bolts from flathead engines is tricky especially if they are in there for a long time. Some of the bolts go through the water jacket and weakens close to the block. Trying to remove the studs from top of the head is a bad idea at best because the length of the studs lends itself to more twisting and easier to break. To do it right and safely as much as possible it is better to remove the head. If the bolts were in fairly recently you probably hit the jackpot by using the Snapon stud remover. Must be held close to the block. If the studs look like trouble at the roots, or breaks, square the top of the broken end, center punch mark as close as possible and start drilling with slow speed using a 3/16 bit right down past bottom and continue to upsize drill. Now you will be able to direct the flame in the drilled hole on the side wall of the drilled bolt. Do not over heat. Let it cool and try an extractor. If no luck, use a slightly larger drill and renew the hole. Use a new 24 T hacksaw blade and grind the back about 2 1/2 inches long and wide enough to fit the hole and cut along the side being careful not to cut the thread of the block. Cut 2 spots about 3/16 apart from each other. Use a suitable punch, bump the side of the narrow piece between the 2 cuts towards the inside . The idea is to shape the broken stud as a pipe and weaken it . If you cannot hold the drill straight (I wear glasses and can never hold the drill straight) try using a magnetic drill . This job needs patience. See if some of our club members will lend you some and start off by reciting the Lords prayer backwards . You never know. When installing head bolts a healthy dose of copper slip grease works wonders and also on exhaust components.
  4. 1928 Dodge Brothers Brake Cables Wanted

    Hi Keith, What a surprize. I have 1928 Dodge Senior and it has hydraulic brakes. I thought all 1928 Dodges had hydraulic brakes. In my working days for a large trucking company there was a local outfit used to custom make replacement cables for hand brakes and gas . I think the name was Cisco, not quite sure. Go on Google. Left to me I would replace with Hydraulics. Think about it. My assembly was made by Lock heed at factory. also a 1928 Senior donor is a good bet. A 1929 hydraulic system is easier match. There are great dodge brothers members who are ready to give you good advice modifying your brakes. May have to do a little fabrication. Keiser31 is a source of inspiration Cheers. Harry.
  5. brake fluid

    Sorry guys, I thought there must have been a forum on this topic before but I could not find it. I put in Lucas DOT 4 . the label says Synthetic . But around the cover of the master cylinder there is rust, which should not be. Also some of the labels read DOT 4 is equivalent to dot 5 but I cannot get DOT 5 to buy here. Supplies from the US will not ship liquids across the border. Not even an ignition coil. The cylinders are lined with stainless steel but I am worried about the rubbers. I had a discussion with Land Rovers North on this subject about 10 years ago and he said silicone based brake fluid is better than DOT 3 but never mix them.. But technology is changing daily. Man thanks to Keiser31, Spinneyhill, Frank and Bloo who took the time to educate me. Cheers and have a nice day
  6. brake fluid

    Hi , I would like to find out which type of brake fluid is better suitable for the 1928 Dodge cars ? Is it DOT 3, or Dot 4 Synthetic. What is the advantage and disadvantage ? The Dodge will be not be regularly driven. Thank you, members. If you do not feel comfortable to express your opinion in this column you may contact me personally at Email comments are confidential. Cheers and have a nice day.
  7. 1925 Oil leak from flywheel housing???

    First you must find out if the oil is from the engine or the transmission. Some old time transmission carries a cork oil seal on the input shaft which leaks into the bell housing. If it is engine oil, I do not know what type of engine you have, If it is a Continental check the rear main seal. On some of those engines it is possible to tighten up the lower half of the seal cap. But check first the breather is clear.
  8. 1948 Dodge brakes

    The comments and advice are all good. I always learn something new. I took a different approach. I did this with my 1928 Dodge Senior. To maintain originality of parts I had the master and the wheel cylinders relined with stainless steel to original size so I could use all the original components . Not Chinese. I replaced all flexible hoses and copper washers. What is important on new or rebuilt linings is to file or chamfer the edges. Make sure the edges are not overhanging the metal shoe surface. Arching the shoes is fine but use a drum gauge after installing on backing plate to drum. If the drum is too tight check the pins. There are coil springs in the wheel cylinders that prevent the pistons bottoming out blocking the entry of fluid .The diameter of the piston is less than the total diameter of the seal in place in the piston. I learned hard lessons trying to save money by fooling around with old worn out parts and changing rubbers with poor results and double work and money wasted. One member said it best. Old car business is not for the faint hearted and cheap pockets. It is impossible to bleed a braking system with a non functioning master cylinder. Bleeding the braking system , renewing the fluid every two years saves lots of headache and money later on. Goes for all old cars five years and older. Cheers and good luck.
  9. Old Car And Truck Parts For Sale!!!!!!!!!!!

    For a 1928 Dodge Senior, I am looking for adjusting plug assembly for the drag link , from the steering box link to the axle ling, Please contact Harry @ 905 881 0621, or hsahu8034@gamail .com
  10. Ho to

    I tried and got it . How to upload pictures on this forum. Thank you all I AM OK NOW. Cheers.
  11. Ho to

    I missed the topic on "How to up load Pictures" on this programme. Is any one willing to show me or tell me where to find the information, please ? Thank you.
  12. WTB

    Adjusting plug for draglink from steering arm to link on wheel. Looks like 1 1/2 inch in diameter with groves for cotter pin. This is for a 1928 Dodge Brothers I also need the dust cover for the link Please phone Harry @ 905 889 o621,
  13. steering wheel removal

    Thank you every one for the interesting discussion. A special thanks to keiser31 for posting the pictures for me . I am on my way to complete the steering issue. Cheers and have a nice day. Harry
  14. steering wheel removal

    Kieser31 will be posting a picture of the horn button for me. The horn button is sealed. I may be able to use a dremell tool to cut the foldover metal and retrieve the terminal end but I do not think its worth it. As you can see in the picture the wire is quite healthy and there is more than enough room for splice and shrink tube repair. Thank you for the source of the armour cable. Another source is Restoration Supply Company, 15182 Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, CA 92025-2320, www. . The original style terminals , like a ring with the wire wrapped around and soldered can be found at Fiennes Restoration Ltd , Than you very much
  15. steering wheel removal

    There was a leather seal which fell apart. No damage to the shaft. I will take your advice. Sounds good. Now I have a new problem. I cannot get access to removing the electrical horn wire at the horn switch. It needs to be changed. All the wires are armour covered and I will like to keep it as original as possible. If it comes to the point where it becomes impossible to open the horn switch I will splice the wire and insulate it well.. Thanks again for all the advice. There is never enough.