ddiaz396

Again I disassembled the carburetor and I realized that the accelerator pump did not work...the check needle was stuck and did not let the gasoline pass (could it be that it is worn out??). Now it is working again. Tomorrow I'm going to put the carb back on the car and try it again.

Thanks EmTee...will check it!

I am having problems with my Carter WCFB carb again. In order to start the car, I have to spray the carb with starter fluid...i need to crank it several times, when it starts it works fine. But if I try to start it after 3 or 4 hours, I need to use the fluid again!! It's like it doesn't get gas... I've already rebuilt the carburetor many times... any ideas?? Thanks.

Larry I posted your request...lets wait if somebody can help. Let you know. Daniel

Hi everybody, this gentleman need some help...any idea? Can somebody help or advise this fellow Buick lover!????

Sorry old-tank, you were right... I made a wrong description of the problem...the good thing is that after cleaning that hole the car works perfect! now the metering rods work with the throttle vacuum.

Yes, I know that the metering rods do not have a hole...the port that was clogged was the one under the vacuum piston cylinder...it's not what makes the metering rods move when the car is running??

I found the problem!! After trying everywhere, I removed the cover of the metering rods and noticed that they did not move when accelerated. One of the jets leaked gas because the metering rods did not move down with the vacuum from the engine. Thanks to the fact that I have a very good neighbor who knows about classic cars, he told me that the vacuum hole in the metering rods was clogged. Pull out the carb one more time. I removed the screw at the bottom of the carb where the vacuum hole is for the metering rods and it was clogged!! I used carb cleaner and blew it out with air, put it back in the car and BOOM!! it's working...I never would have thought to look in that place, because I soaked the carb for 4 hours, blew it with air from the compressor many times all over...it never occurred to me, that it was clogged in that place. Thanks to my neighbor for his help!! Tomorrow I will take a photo and post it in case someone has the same problem that way everyone will know how to fix it.

Yes Jon, I also suspect something electric...No electronic conversion in the car. I ordered new spark plugs (Old tank I recommend Autolite 85) and tried to get solid core copper wires, but I couldn't find it...tomorrow I'm going to replace spark plug and wires and I'm going to check the condenser. If it keeps failing, then it's the carburetor (I'm also going to check the rotor, points and distributor cap). Next step...I have an edelbroock carburetor, I'm going to buy a plate adapter and install it as a replacement (only temporary) for the Carter and see what happens .

I'm having a hard time with my WCFB Carter carb... I've removed the carb several times last week, soaked it in carb cleaner, checked every jet and cleaned it... and it still doesn't run right (rough idle). It will replace the spark plugs (autolite 85) and spark plug wires (modern carbon fiber) and go on from there. I'll have to restore (by someone who knows what they do) the Carter carb. Does anyone know the size of the screw for the air horn on top of the carb? Someone replaced some of the screws and they don't work very well (could it be a vacuum leak through them?), so I need to buy a tap and die set and get the screws threaded right. (can it be restored?). Can anyone recommend someone who can restore a Carter carb?.

Hi John, how are you? Do you have regular spark plug or solid core wires in your Buick?

Hi, my neighbor is telling me that the current spark plug wires(carbon) don't work with the 1956 Buick's electrical system...is that correct?https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/are-you-using-the-best-spark-plug-wires-for-your-application/.

I found the answer! "Unfortunately that's life with the fuel being produced now (ethanol adds to the issue). Whenever gas sits in the carb bowl for any length of time this is the result. Carb bowls are vented which allows air to begin the process of the fuel breaking down."

Took Carter carburetor to clean and I found this Grey powder...my fuel filter is clean...my neighbor told me that is deterioration of aluminum in the carburetor...is this correct?

What about Roadmaster?

Hi, the seats from a 1956 Buick Century are similar size that a 1956 Buick Super? Thanks

Hi, I have a 1956 Buick parting out. Let me know what do you need. me know what do you need.

WFBC Carter carburetor advice need! with car idling , should metering rods go down (by vacumm) if I press the accelerator ??(I removed the cap and exposed the metering arm and rods), Thanks

Hi everybody, a few days ago I got connected with Michael Bengtsson from Sweden. He has a 1956 Buick Super and he need some molding and tim for his car. I imagine it must be very difficult to find parts for your Buick in Sweden ... can somebody help? IV Porte 10 Started conversation: Sunday at 03:36 PM Hello ddias396, my name is Michael Bengtsson from Sweden. I have followed your progress with restoring your 56 Buick. I do have a 1956 Buick Super 4 d hardtop and am in to restore it. I do miss some of teh outer trim. On right rear door and the fender i miss the trim, and on left side the door trim. Somewere I noticed you have cars for spare parts. I have surched for these parts for several years but no one seems to have any. Is it possible you have spares and can sell me those parts? My alias is IVPorte and I´m a member of the AACA. Sinceraly Michael Bengtsson, Sweden

I found piston vacumeter orientation.

I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and rebuilt my Carter carburetor AGAIN!!! This time I did a deep cleaning (remove the four low speed jets, four metering jets ,metering rods, pump relief plug(didn't remove the pump intake check ball since it was moving freely in place) jet housing, ETC! The gasket from the air horn teared a little be, used some Permatex(is this ok??)As the carburetor was rebuilt many times in the past, I don't know if everything is as it should be and I have some questions.1- Is the orientation of the swing vacumeter piston at the piston link important? How do you place the piston and the spring back in the cylinder hole?(put the spring first and then lower the air horn with the piston already attached?)Is there a trick how to place the metering rod in the jets on the same operation?(is done but it was very difficult!). The 4 metering jets(2 primary 2 secondary) have same number?? Thanks. PS what kind of spak plug will work replacing the original AC Type 44? Autolite 85 will do?

Couldnt make original choke work properly, so I adapted a manual choke. I will continue working with the original trying to fix it.

Thanks old-tank...I will do as you said.

I was having problems with the acceleration pump in my carburetor(Carter), so I removed it and rebuilt again.Now the car is runing better. I need to set the timing in the car...when I use the timing light I need to disconnect the vacum advance first? 5 degrees will do? . Also is time to adjust the valves in the 322, any advice how to do it right? but first I will like to do a compression test. Can somebody guide me the proper procedure to do a compression test.Thanks, Daniel.