yellow_cad

I definitely do drive it. It was just since I got the newest paint that I thought about going further before stone chips.

I have a 1954 Cadillac CdV and just got a fresh repaint so I looking to prevent stone chips. I have thought seriously about that clear film that clings to the contours of the car. I would only be doing just the front's most vulnerable areas. I am concerned about the transition where film stops and paint continues. Does anyone have any advise or success stories? Thanks, Jim

I haven't located a sticky telling how.

Where is the posting photo sticky?

It is clean and oiled. I'm having a little trouble figuring out exactly which are the points. One side I see but the one on the lever is not so easy to see. The one I can see looks clean but I'll touch it up just in case.

The clock has run for years, but just recently in began to make a stuttering sound. It is out now and I have been on it for days so I'm reasonably familiar with it. The lever that spans the two coils that also has the main spring winding pawl on it should recock every few minutes when the contacts touch. Instead it continues to go back and forth not staying reset. I have two of these clocks. My most presentable one and another but they both do the same thing. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Jim

Sorry I didn't state the make. It is a Cadillac.

On my 54, I'm trying to get the steering as tight as it should be. With car jacked up and using hand pressure right now pitman arm end play is only perceptible with rotating (back and forth) shaft movement appx 1/32" measured at the drag link end of the pitman arm and this translates to appx 1/16" of movement measured out at the tie rod end. I would assume that there really shouldn't be any back and forth movement in the pitman shaft but can't seem to find this out for sure. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

Price lowered to $2000. Must sell so please make an offer.

What's so strange about it is that it covers three heat ranges for one year of one motor. I'd call that totally noncommittal. That must match all the warning labels they put on their products these days. In other words, steer clear of liability.

From Sacramento and it was 106 today.

Thanks 'B,' what is the date of that AC application guide?

After looking into it, I too am a little surprised the 1954 Cadillac recommends an AC 46 heat range since from listening to other 50s Cadillac owners regarding AC, Champion, and Autolite as well as the specific recommendations of Autolite in their 1958 spark plug catalog, one heat range is specified for Cadillac 1949-54, then the next coolest range for Cadillac 1955, and finally the next coolest range for Cadillac 1956-58, so basically 3 ranges in three years. I am just wondering what factors are causing this drop in recommended plug temperature. Especially puzzeling to me is the drop between 1954 and 1955. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Jim

The stock recommendation for spark plugs on my 54 Cadillac is AC 46-5. I was running AC 46 and it is definitly a short plug in as how far it extends into the combustion chamber. I have switched to some Autolite plugs that are in the same heat range as the 46-5, 46, etc. Even though these Autolite plugs (A82) show to be used in place of AC 46-5, etc, it is noted that A82 is an extended tip spark plug. With these extended tip plugs the electrode is definitly more exposed (sticking out at least 1/4 inch longer). Initially I made sure there was no contact with the piston. That was fine and I would think the extended tip would give me better combustion, but I thought I would check to see if anyone had any specific knowledge of the workings of this type of plug in these engines. It runs fine now but I would hate to burn a hole in a piston when the car is hotter and engine is working hard. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Matt. I live at sea level (even though not on the coast) and most of the summer driving requires some pretty long grades with 90+ temps. It was such that I had to do that driving in the cool of the morning or I was going to get too hot. My motor is in good condition and my cooling system clean. To lessen my chances of overheating, I recently recored my radiator to have more capacity and better fin cooling than the stock radiator. I am running distilled water with Water Wetter. I did install a new 180 degree thermostat but I have a few Robertshaw 160 degree summerstats that look to be much better made the poppet type 180 I installed. So, the reason for my question is to determine if changing to the 160 degree would be a step forward or a step backwards in preventing engine overheat.