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About rocky5517

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  • Birthday 06/07/1951

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    North Jersey
  1. Hey PWB Am enclosing pix of how I spruced up the wood veneer on my console. There was a layer of some type of coating or clear something which I peeled off with a razor. Don't go too deep or you'll gouge out a piece like I did in the middle photo. I sanded (gently) and applied some Miniwax urethane; forget what color I used but I have a small can of Natural as well as Cherry. I sprayed a clear over it when I was done. Not a concours restoration but I'm fine with it.
  2. Steelco enclosed are some before and after of my 67. Take Bernie's ( as well as other's) advice and unless you're a decent mechanic, which I am not, learn to work around stuff instead of removing. The relays, etc are easy of course, and it helped when the mechanic replaced the timing chain. While he did the rough stuff I poked around with the details. ALL of the guys on these pages are helpful and their knowledge is really valuable. Especially the tip about the tin foil as masking. (Don't forget to disconnect the battery.) The list of correct paint that Ed posted is crucial/ print it out and don't lose it.A good example of working around something is the wiper motor/ I was warned by more than a few experts that it's a real bear to screw around with. But with your tiny artist brushes and even a Q-tip, and some cases a toothpick, you can get really good detail if you have the time and patience. Good luck!!
  3. When I bought my (67) car it still had R-12 . A mechanic switched to R-34 but I know he didn't flush the system properly.. He added PAG oil. Then we saw the muffler was bad, so I had a welder just chop off the bottom and re-weld it back together,. No problem. Installed an upgrade from Vintage Air, and re-installed R-12. Once in a while a would hear a squeal if I engaged it at high speed but haven't heard it lately. It may have had too much R-12. But I have two kinds of oil in the system- the original mineral oil, and the PAG oil. I go to a lot of cruise nites, show etc, and I ask good mechanics ( or at least I think they're good) should I flush the system and put in mineral oil. Everyone asks me - " how is it working?" I say, "Fine". On a real hot and humid day I notice it loses a little punch after an hour or so, but it doesn't bother me. It seems exactly HALF of the guys say to flush it, and the other half say leave well enough alone. I have sided with the latter group, because, well, that's what I was hoping to hear.
  4. Exactly right Pat/ I have worked on dozens of parking decks in the NorthEast and the best spot for something like this is the floor UNDER the highest level, because as you obviously know, on the highest level will keep you dry but not help when a tree lands on you car. the lowest level is sometimes below grade/ 'nuff said.
  5. If I was in the path of Irma, I would try to bring my car to either a parking garage or a nearby mall with a large garage, and park it at the highest level I could. If I had the option, I'd avoid the top level. Any thoughts on this?
  6. Way to go Gordon!

    That's an excellent answer, Rodney. I never thought about the long distances between your towns, and the info about LHD dispensation is a great point also. I see it a lot more clearly now. And I guess that's why we don't see a large # of Rivs in countries like, say, England, Italy, etc. I've been to a few European countries and many of them have pretty narrow streets and roads. Even Germany, with its great super highways, may not by the greatest place for large, powerful older American cars in some of their older cities. Much thanks!
  7. Way to go Gordon!

    What do you think makes certain cars ( Rivs, in this case) be so popular in far-away places like Australia? Why not, say, Greece or Ireland or Brazil? Am impressed by our brothers down under!!!!
  8. That Riv looks like it can't make up it's mind if it's going forward or backwards
  9. Did not know that/ I thought it was a no-no to mix viscosities
  10. I bought some Brad Penn from a speed shop in Paterson NJ. The owner said that oil is one of the few that you can mix viscosities.
  11. Long Term Interest

    Very cool Bernie. That's one of the reasons I never throw things out/ and when I do I usually regret it
  12. NC Riv- those lites look awesome- especially the foot wells
  13. Just buy one in good running order; they're out there. Mine is a 67 and most of the major components have been replaced or rebuilt. When I sell it I'll ask around $18-21,000. Ready to go. No (major) issues and unless you're a glutton for punishment in my opinion you'd be much better off. And that's before you take into account shipping and hunting for parts. But if you look, I bet you find a decent driver for under $7,500. Then you can spruce it up as you like . I don't know how many of these cars are in Europe but I would suggest you find one with intact sheet metal , glass, and bumpers. They would be expensive to ship. As long as the major engine components are good you wouldn't be setting yourself up for disaster. Also, what is the situation where you are re bumpers? To get them re-chromed in the US depends a lot on which state you're in but due to environmental rules those guys are getting hard to find. Finding a radio is one thing/ shipping a bumper to God knows where and hoping it comes back right would be pretty chancy, in my opinion. Good luck!!
  14. thanks guys- sounds like a fun project!
  15. Was reading interesting thread about replacing bulbs in misc dashboard applications; does anyone have info like this for a 67? I might be doing some work in there soon. Mucho thanks