Old Man Jimbo

Nice / sweet !

Very clean !

I'm just winging it Steve with an open mind and a lot of research from this board and the net.I'm learning as I go.It's the master mechanics that I am learning from. I'm just a long haired hippie dude with a dream .... LoL

It's been a while since I posted any progress on my strut build . Been putting the front suspension back in the Cherokee and that is why no update. This photo was the original reason that I wanted to do this and for those who are not familiar with the term " slamming " that's what it's called... Haha ( love me some slamming ! ). I like the color although I'm thinking this mod will be cooler in black.

Daniel , front first then I will tackle the rear . I have some absurd thought about that and keeping those thoughts when I'm actually there. I'll leak out this ... it will include the sway bar swap that I already have . As we both know , the rear will be more complex than the front.

Wonderful Ronnie.I haven’t taken the top off yet for that reason. Thank you , I see the mod needed because of your photos. Piece of cake for Jimbo MacGyver

I’ll pull out my Swedish taps . Do you know where I can get some Swedish bolts ?

If it’s okay with you gents I would like to tell my strut project here so that I can gain from our knowledge and perhaps if this works as planned perhaps someone may also gain from this build. The coil overs that were selected after leinghty research and endless emails from maXpeedRods are pictured below. I found these to be the most Reatta friendly struts to build on. The base ( strut to knuckle ) screws off so that I can use the donar ears from my existing struts on the car plus the brake line, Abs brackets,They have a 9” adjustable travel. Of course I will not be taking advantage of the 9”’s. OEM struts measure 19.2” long and my beginning number will be 17” witch will leave me 3.25” of strut into the bottom of the bracket/base. I am not expecting this to lower the front 2” because of the difference in spring comparison of the two but spring change out will be relatively easy to achieve the ride quality that Is wanted. Not 1000% sure what will be modified on the top mount although a type of bearing ( greasable bearing )will be a must to avoid any knocking at the tower. The diameter of the OEM struts are approximately 7.5”. The diameter of the coil overs is 3.75 and that simply will cause my tires to feel like they moved out of their 1 bedroom apartment and into a duplex! ( had throw some comedy in there ? The journey begins........

I think I will use metric on half of them and SAE on the other half( isn’t that how manufacturers do it? )... ha ! Happy Easter to all

I believe you misunderstood me I am not talking about the square bolts I have those coming my way. I am talking about the six screws/bolts that hold the coils down I did not order them because I had to order a pack of 10 it like 395 each so I am thinking I can order some hex head cap screws excuse me I mean go to the hardware store and get the hex head cap screws and use them with the proper length . I understand that those three square are a Necessity but as I said I am talking about the six that hold the coil through the ICM through the base plate. I can’t help myself. I have been wanting to re invent the tire for years.

Ronnie, I have a question. I was able to order the square head bolts even though I had to order 10 of them because they came in packs of 10 and I ordered the rubber seal/gasket for the ICM connection but I did not order the six bolts to hold the coil downMy question is I would prefer to put like a Screw/allen head Screw in place of the original equipment. Do you see a problem with doing that?

Thanks Barney. I will try looking for Riviera drilled and slotted. Matt I totally disagree with you. I have them on my 2006 PT cruiser and my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. They are power stop and they break incredibly well in fact I have over 30,000 miles on the cruiser with ceramic pads and there every bit as good as they were the day I bought them. No whizzing sound no nothing just a very firm stop. Perhaps the brand that You had or brands were not as good as the power stops. Just saying and of course we can agree to disagree. Also Matt I do want to add one thing, I wish I would’ve had them on my Porsche 928 because I used to fly up and down the cascade Mountains in that car and the car wizzzzzed not the brakes. LOL

I have been looking for a while to find drilled & slotted rotors for front and back and the quality named suppliers only sell the fronts ( PowerStop preferred ). The brands that have front and rear available I have never heard of. Am I missing something here like the rears are different ?. I humble myself asking this question.....

Ronnie, how about you go ahead and order a bunch I think they have 10 available and I will order three from you and then you will have some at your store. I did not order them last night because it would not allow me to change the quantity from 10 to 3 but when I get home tonight after work I will probably just get 10 if you haven’t already gotten them all . They also at rock auto have the long bolts they were like three dollars and some odd cents and they have the seal/gasket for the ICM connection . I just googled google images 1991 Buick Reatta ignition system and the article from the Buick Reatta for him came up and I took those numbers and enter them in at rock auto and that’s how I found them. Please let me know before this evening or I will just order them all if I cannot change the number quantity .

I was a little worried about finding the square bolts for my new ignition system that hold the ICM to the base plate and then I found them ! https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,10474166,ignition+coil+mounting+bracket,7080