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About cshbc@aol.com

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  • Birthday 02/07/1956

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  1. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    Finally went for a drive. The leather faced clutch was a joy. No slipping, no grabbing. The clutch that came out was very hard kevlar which explains the problem, not much give. Thanks for all of your help.
  2. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Fan Belt

    Is it possible to break the coupling between the water pump and the belt pulley drive shaft to slide in a continuous fan belt?
  3. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    It was Kevlar lined. It would either slip or chatter. As you know, the transmission is delicate and I was concerned that the grabby, chattery clutch would break the transmission case, thus the return to leather lining.
  4. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    Well, the leather faced clutch is in. To do it the shaft carrying the brake, clutch pedals and all attachments comes out. The cross member that holds the pedal shaft and the drive shaft has to be moved back. This was accomplished with a friends hydraulic jack set up, difficult to do with out it. The u joint comes out, the easiest way would be to lower the drive shaft after unbolting the coupling, determined after the u joint was disassembled with the drive shaft in place. The drive shaft must be lowered to remove the clutch. With the correct tools and some knowledge it is doable, but not a quick operation. I look forward to giving the new clutch a test in the warmer weather.
  5. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    Thanks Layden, I will let you know how things go. Gary
  6. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    Hello Layden, The U-joint has been removed. The shaft that operates the clutch throw out bearings prevents the clutch from clearing the spring tension bolts in the carrier. I guess my only option is to remove the shaft. I can forward pictures if it is helpful. Look forward to your thoughts. Gary
  7. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    Layden, Thank you for the direction. I have a kevlar lined clutch which is grabby. I will take a crack at removing the dog bone link. Your sage wisdom is greatly appreciated. Gary
  8. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

    I need to remove the cone clutch. Is there any way to do this beside dropping the shackles and pulling the rear end aft? Any guidance would be welcome.
  9. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Exhaust 'Chimney Connection to Stromberg Carburetor

    Thanks for the reply. The thought of boiling fuel next to the distributor does not make me feel good.
  10. cshbc@aol.com

    1916 Stutz Bearcat Exhaust 'Chimney Connection to Stromberg Carburetor

    Hi Mr. Layden, The intake is aluminum and is warmed by the coolant. Despite this set up, the low end of the intake manifold ices up externally and condenses in warmer weather. The rear end of the carberator is designed to accept a flexible tube to provide heat and appears to be missing a ring that can be rotated to open holes to allow cool air in warmer conditions. I would be glad to forward you pictures if it would be helpful. My email is CSHBC@aol.com. Thanks for your help, Gary
  11. I am trying to get pictures or drawings of the connection from the flexible pipe that comes off the exhaust to the Stromberg carburetor. The engine is a 4 cylinder Wisconsin T head. The starter motor is fairly close to carb intake requiring that an elbow of about 90 degrees will be necessary to keep the flex pipe off the starter motor from what I can see. The intake manifold ices up in cool weather externally and the car runs poorly as a result. I am hoping that if I can get some exhaust heat into the carb intake it will help the car perform better in cool weather. I look forward to hearing from some knowledgeable Stutz and Wisconsin engine people. Thanks for your help. Gary :confused: