Pete K.

Can you check to see if the new brushes have been "run-in"? meaning are they contacting the segments on the commutator at 100%.

OK, Forget what I said about sheet metal screws. It's been way too long since I worked on my '39 floor. You'll need to find the thread pitch on those body nuts to procure the right machine thread screws. I highly doubt the body nuts take a sheet metal thread. Carefully try a few taps close to what the threaded holes appear to be. Don't force the tap into the nut, if body nuts are rusty, oil them first and try to clean them out some. Hopefully you have a tap & die set, if not, a cheap set will suffice for this project. The right tap should go in fairly smooth. You can even take that tap to hardware store to match up the screw thread you need.

I've been told that many car owners of nickel plated trim had it re-done in chrome by 1929 and up. I guess it was fairly inexpensive back then and the annual polishing of nickel was becoming a thing of the past, even back in those days. Anyone that lives near the seacoast will tell you. The moist, salty air turns the nickel gray, then green if not protected.

Yes, you nailed the spot in your great photo. I was told to check for cracks there, by older mechanics that worked on the old Buicks when still being used everyday. Again, This was a 1930, 6 cyl. block I had.. Very possible Buick thickened up that area for the '31's.

Dear Drovak, check your block very closely by removing the front valve cover plate, where the water jacket curves under towards the cylinder walls, old Buick's seem to have a very thin casting area that is prone to a longitudinal crack at that spot. Happened to me years ago on a '30 6 cyl. block. Not so sure on the '31, but I'd surely check it out anyway.

Correct me if I'm wrong, aren't the screws plain Pan-Head sheet metal screws? If they are ultra-special screws, try Mcmaster-Carr Company. They seem to have most everything hardware.

Those '30 Buick's use a fan with a gear driven oil pump in it. Rotate the hub of fan and you'll see an oval head screw. Take it out to fill reservoir with oil, replace screw. Under the front plate of the fan hub which has about umpteen screws on it and a paper gasket under it, you'll find two little gears, one stationary with the shaft and other driven gear mated to it. They're supposed to pump the oil, (more like circulate it) to bearing/shaft.

I drove a 1930-Mdl.47 sedan for 20 years. No way will it keep up at 65 or even 55 without blowing the main bearings. It is geared too low. 45 MPH was about as fast as I would push that six cylinder engine. At one time there was a set of rear end gears that would decrease engine speed at cruising speed but I don't remember who was selling them. (ring & pinion set). It was a great car and Buick actually advertised the '30 for the ease of driving for women.

Please be safe, don't forget to remove the tube's valve core by unscrewing them before you ever start undoing the rim lock. When all air is out, lay rim & tire on grass, use your heel to walk around the tire bead to break it free from rim. An old rim tool is sure a huge help. It's a three-arm crank assembly tool to grab the rim and contract it when cranked up. Same tool can push rim in together when you need to. You may well need rim flaps along with the new tires and tubes. Coker Tire Co. has some good tires for the Dodge, but there are other dealers just as good. The flaps may be good to use again, use your common sense here. So are the tubes, if the rubber is "live" and no aging is apparent, use them. You can test them in water if you want. You'll need good tire irons, I use old leaf spring leaves that I've ground and polished the ends smooth after I cut them to a usable length. Mine are around 20"-22" long. There IS a front and back to your rims. Keep this in mind when mounting new tires for the sidewall you want on the outside. There's a lot more to know but this may be of some help.

By Jove Farmallregular, you are correct. DC current DOES flow mostly uniformly through a conductor. Good eye farmall!

I take both filler screws out, pump straight STP oil treatment in upper hole, when you see clean lube coming out lower hole, close that up and fill upper 'till it's full. replace upper filler screw. Some old autos had a leather boot wired onto the universal to keep dirt out. Many are missing.

All good info here. I use "00" on the old 6 volt vehicles. Not to go cuckoo here, but if you look into the Theory Of Electricity, electrons tend to travel on the outer strands of a conductor, under the insulator obviously. 00 gauge will work just fine. Soldering ends on works better than a crimp, but there is an art to solder correctly without burning or wicking.

More fun than hitting the lottery! Great find!

I used an old NOS fiber timing gear in a straight 6, 1930 Buick MANY years ago, still going strong. Don't worry with yours.

Nice booklet! Packard once had a 4 cylinder miniature air pump motor driven off the transmission. Who can remember the racket a broken tire chain made? It would beat the Dickens out of the fender!!