avgwarhawk

Members
  • Content count

    2,769
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Everything posted by avgwarhawk

  1. Looking at the 60's 401 it appears the passenger side exhaust manifold heat valve is stuck in the partially open position. Rusty as it were. Has anyone been able to get the valve free again? Currently I hit the exposed shaft ends coil and counter weight with PB Blaster. Also soaked the nuts that secure the exhaust pipe to the manifold in case it requires removal.
  2. Exhaust Manifold Heat Control Valve

    I found the valve to be stuck open. Logically this makes sense as the power is evident. However, the flange to exhaust manifold was found loose. Tightened and cold running exhaust noise is gone.
  3. Exhaust Manifold Heat Control Valve

    I have found the exhaust pipe to manifold flange collar is loose when cold. I detected what sounded like an exhaust leak passenger side when cold. Dissipates as it warms and swells. I'll drop the pipe and see if the valve is open or partially open. Install a new gasket upon reassembly.
  4. 1955 Engine Rebuild

    I was reading through the post were you stated the exhaust manifold bolts had come loose. The bolt locking pieces are available. I replaced all of mine when I did the mild rebuild.
  5. 1954 century sedan. GA to NC

    Should read full if ground is poor or disconnected if I remember correctly. If your gauge reads FULL AT ALL TIMES: A. Probable Causes Wire from dash gauge to sending unit is broken and/or the connection is corroded (not making a good electrical connection). Resistance wire inside sending unit is broken Sending unit is not properly grounded to tank or tank is not properly grounded to chassis
  6. 1954 century sedan. GA to NC

    Fuel gauge issue is perhaps just a lose ground wire.
  7. 1955 Engine Rebuild

    My 264 in the 54 was rebuild(half-butt) previously to my ownership. I found the rocker shafts were installed upside down. The heads had hard seats installed that subsequently failed. The fuel pump was leaking oil into the vacuum portion of the pump. In short, just a mess. At that time while driving the car it would suck up 1/2 quart of oil in 200 miles of driving. Eventually started blowing blue all the time as a result of the failed seat in the head. I guess many if not all think a block needs to be rebuilt just as a Chevy would be rebuilt. Anyway, I replaced the pump, corrected the rocker shafts, pulled the heads for a new set, replaced the rings, honed the cylinders and replaced the lifters. I did all of this in my garage with block still in the Buick. I drove the car about 800 miles for the rings to seat, etc. I was satisfied at that time all was good and parked the car. So..... this summer my wife and I drove the Buick up to and around the Allegheny mountains. It was a 300 mile trip in a day. The 264 did not burn a drop of oil. But a plug wire fell off on the way home. Can't win them all. I would say once your pump is oil free in the vacuum portion your oil consumption should diminish quite a bit. One other item, since the valve stems have no seal as you know, my 264 blows a buff of blue at start up. From my understanding, this is normal. After that the tailpipe is clear. Nice work on your rebuild!
  8. 63 Driver

    Nice land yacht. Enjoy!
  9. 1955 Engine Rebuild

    It is quite possible the oil in the vacuum portion of the pump is getting into the cylinders thus producing the light blue tint of smoke. Hopefully that is your oil consumption issue. Your plugs look good. Yes, it is a pleasure to hear an engine run that you have worked on.
  10. 1958 Caballero

    Nice work!
  11. Helpful Web Sites, Vendors and Services

    Power Brake Booster Exchange Inc. (Booster Dewey) 4335 SE 63rd Ave. - Portland, OR 97206 503.238.8882 Vacuum Brake Booster Rebuilders http://boosterdeweyexchange.com
  12. Helpful Web Sites, Vendors and Services

    Fusick Location: 21 Thompson Road East Windsor, CT 06088 (860) 623-1589 Sales@fusick.com http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com
  13. Another Nice $7500 Buick (1950)

    You know, I thought the same thing. The visor just make this ride look cool. What's better than having a Buick? Having two! Go get'er!
  14. Thank a BCA Member

    For me: Lamar Brown(Mr. Earl)...help with parts! Willy(Old Tank)...help with how to and general overall help with my questions as well as others.
  15. The Passing of Bob Coker

    RIP Mr. Coker.
  16. 1960 Electra How do you change the Heat / AC Actuators ?

    Correct. I have a non AC Electra. If yours are under the dash I would imagine the heater core housing would need to come out. I will have to take a look at my manual. Not sure what you're faced with in a AC car.
  17. 1960 Electra How do you change the Heat / AC Actuators ?

    There are speed nuts on the shafts either side of the vacuum pull. . These keep it bolted to the metal bracket.
  18. 1940 Super $7500

    Nice car. The green interior with green paint is no bother to me. My 60 is the same inside and out. Green on green.
  19. I just DON'T like the picture of this Buick

    I think the question is why?
  20. MrEarl's Daily Therapeutic Dose of Buick

    A different kind of tri-five with no bow tie.
  21. 53 convertible Flexing chassis ,cause for concern?

    Convertible....I would expect more flex than a hard top/sedan.
  22. 53 convertible Flexing chassis ,cause for concern?

    They all flex. The sprung weight on the chassis while on the ground is how the body panels/doors were aligned. When lifted at points that do not allow the body to sit on the springs as designed the chassis flexes and panels start separate. Doors do not work like they should. Once back on the ground all is as it should be.
  23. 1960 Buick 401 Black Carburator

    Are the jets were they need to be now?
  24. GIRLS ON BUICKS IV

    Sorry for any repeats