avgwarhawk

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Everything posted by avgwarhawk

  1. Concerning the propeller shaft and lubricating, the manual states, "One quick shot." at 5000 intervals. One quick shot of what is the question.
  2. Changed the oil. Pulled off a clean Frame filter with a hand written date of 4/6/08. This car sat A LOT. Installed a Hastings filter and filled with Lucas Classic Car 10/W30. Lubed the front end. Had a bit of trouble understanding the zerk fitting for the propeller shaft. Posted in the other forum for clarification. While under there noticed the shocks are original. Makes sense on a car with 30k. No doubt this Buick was a garage queen that spent a good part of it's life sitting.
  3. I picked up my new 1960 Buick Electra today. They Dynaflow is a curiously cool transmission. Just keeps pulling. The previous owner kept records and receipts. Had the Dynaflow serviced quite a bit. I'm guessing this is what keeps it working as design.
  4. Yes sir. Just completed the task. It all made sense with the zerk fitting post. So that's done. Thanks for the help.
  5. Yes, I pulled the rubber plug expecting to see a grease fitting. All I had seen was the shaft. Went to the manual and read "A quick shot.". So I went for a Bourbon. I was certain that is not what the instructions meant but Bourbon was good anyway. Thanks for clearing that up!
  6. I have driven the Coker and Universal(apparently one and the same). For some reason the Coker rides better from my experience with bias ply tires. For your model Buick, what WW size was offered for that year? Purchase a tire to match the same WW width. I agree Buick 5563 concerning the width of WW.
  7. I noted on the receipts purchasing synthetic oil for the Buick. It runs like a top so there is nothing wrong with that! I now run Lucas Classic Car/Hot Rod oil with added zinc. I did run regular old dino oil in the 54. I did not note any odd ball wear when I took the top of the engine apart. But, I decided to run an oil with added zinc.
  8. And to be sure, Willie and I determined, when working on a top engine problem, that the cam and lifters in my 54 was replaced with a 55/56 cam and lifters. The push rods being shorter than the 54 originally had. If you decide to go full bore with the valve train plan on replacing all components.
  9. Buick rendering Homer LaGassey.
  10. Apparently in Cuba.
  11. I would think the lifters could be cleaned up internally and re-used. The manual has good instructions for cleaning. If the lifters are wearing well, reuse!
  12. For my lifter replacement I did the following: 1. Soak in oil for a while with the oil hole in up position to allow air out and oil in. 2. Used old push rod and pumped the lifters while submerged in oil. 3. Used engine rebuild lube. Coated cam lobes, face of the lifter that rides the lobe and top were the push rod sits. 4. Started the car and ran at 1500 RPM for 10 minutes. It taps like crazy but you can hear each lifter go silent as oil is introduced and pressure builds. Do not think to shut down the engine for the clatter going on. You would think it is running itself to death. Let it run. The above steps worked for me.
  13. Today I replaced the valve cover gaskets. Found a broken body to block ground and repaired. Inside the covers was quite good. No gunk or sludge in the heads. Not quite as easy as the 264 in the 54 but did not take long. Found on the muffler. Should bring back some memories for some Clean but appears to maybe have had condensation. Oil is getting changed. The previous owner used synthetic oil