avgwarhawk

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Everything posted by avgwarhawk

  1. Beautiful car. Needs a thinner WW.
  2. Shadetree's(forum member) mom if I'm not mistaken.
  3. The forum support is excellent. Aftermarket parts as well as original part support for our Buicks is very good. Club support is top notch. One of the many reasons I decided on a Buick for my first classic car. A decision I never regretted. In fact, purchased my second Buick 4 weeks ago. We are a different breed here in the Buick Universe.
  4. I changed the fluid in the rear of my 54. It was leaking and the cover had to come off for a new gasket anyway. The primeval goo and stench that slowly drained into the pan was something from a horror movie. I'm still clearing my sinus of the stench. Anyway, no harm done. For me it was a piece of mind. New gear oil added. Off to the races. Ebay is your friend for parts like visors, etc. Good luck with your new Buick!
  5. Doug, When I drain I only drop the plug under the syncromesh manual. Once drained I replace the drain plug. I fill at the side access plug. I use a simple plastic hand pump that screws on top of the gear oil container. I use 90 weight. I pump in the gear oil until it starts to drip out of the fill hole. At this juncture the syncromesh is full. I make no measurements of pints etc. It is not an exact science. Now, you are probably wonder how I get under the car and fill while it sits level. Tight fit right? What I do is jack up the side of the car the fill hole is located. I fill the synrcomesh until the gear oil starts to drip out of the fill hole. I then slide a oil catch pain under the syncromesh. I lower the jack allowing the car to sit level. The overfill of oil will drain into my pan. Once that stops I jack up the car again and replace the plug. Job done. I do nothing at the torque ball or drain anything from there. Unless that area is leaking very badly leave it as is. The gear oil will find it's way to the torque ball and yoke via the engineered rifling found in the brass bushing. The channel allows this oil to run back into the sump of the syncromesh. It is a clever design.
  6. Spending time with the 60. Clock is running like a well oiled watch. Ummmmm......it's running.
  7. I picked up my new 1960 Buick Electra today. They Dynaflow is a curiously cool transmission. Just keeps pulling. The previous owner kept records and receipts. Had the Dynaflow serviced quite a bit. I'm guessing this is what keeps it working as design.
  8. To answer the other questions....you won't find this plug in the torque ball in the manual because it does exist. The rubber boot keeps dirt out. Maybe cracking from age. I would leave it as is. I run mine without the boot. My torque ball seal does not suffer any adverse affects as a result. If your torque ball seal is not leaking and it appears it is good leave it alone. Drain/fill and drive.
  9. U joint at the tail of the transmission:
  10. This is a little better shot:
  11. There is no filling the torque ball seal and u-joint inside that I'm aware of. There are channels fluid gets to this area from the main body of the transmission. Manual trans? Inside the torque ball is this configuration. There is channel that allows fluid in. This is how it looks on my manual: If you do have a manual and do not know how much to fill....I fill mine on level ground. Pump in the gear oil unit it spills out of the fill plug. Done.
  12. Good stuff Dan! Love the pictures and narrative for each. Great adventure! Keep it coming! It is also nice to hear the 49 is running like a champ. Trusty back in 49 and trusty today!!!!
  13. What the....
  14. Ground wire.
  15. I drive big American car cut low to the ground.
  16. If I'm not mistaken the engine can be push started with the Dynaflow. Push to 15 mph to get the rear trans pump working. Thanks for the tip on the wrench. Sometimes I use a metric tool on my Buicks as the standard will not work.
  17. Kosage, Just a tip on the rubber heater hoses for your next Buick(and there will be :)), I use a razor to split the hose were it covers the brass tube to the valve, core or neck of the radiator. Peel back like a banana skin. I can't tell you how many times I pulled and pried with pliers and screwdrivers attempting to free up a hose I was going to replace anyway. Thanks for the pics of taking out the core/valves etc. I will be doing that soon on my 54.
  18. Considering the conversation of stick shift and girlfriend/wife, having a standard makes it awful hard to keep you right arm around your special someone and shift at the same time. In my struggles to shift and keep my arm around my wife as we cruise down the road I sometimes have my wife shift the column. I work the clutch. It gets cumbersome the longer it goes on. Fortunately only having to shift from 2nd to 3rd as I usually start out in 2nd does not make it too bad. But none the less kind of a pain. With the Dynaflow all we do is basically steer. This allows our other arm to stay around that special someone and often times wander if you catch my drift. Food for thought!
  19. New fuel pump on. The rubber fuel hose from pump to the hard line was on the way out. One stiff tug and it came apart. The hard fuel line was in great shape. The hose clamp at the hard line connection at the frame is a unique design. It has a hook type design that hooks to the clamp to the frame so if the rubber line was pulled for whatever reason the hook on the clamp would keep the rubber line from pulling off the hard line. I guess it would be prudent to check the rubber hose in the tank area.
  20. The cooling systems does keep pressure when running at operating temperature. My diagnosis as a result of pressure in the system while hot is the control valve is working and a leak at the core when valve is open. What is odd is when the heat is first switched I get the faint smell of antifreeze. It dissipates very quickly and no issue after that. I drove the Buick about 60 miles in 80+ degree weather this past weekend. No over hearting. At any rate, I will leave it as it stands for now and pull down the heating box at the end of the summer.
  21. The entire brake system has been replaced. All rubber hoses, metal lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, return springs and shoes. I have pulled and inspected all drums. No leaking in the rear wheel seals. New seals on the drums up front. She stop very well for 2 tons of vehicle.
  22. I think Mr. Earl can set you up with what you need.
  23. Yep. I have yet to need any heat on my Buicks. Can't say that on my wife's 2006 Mercury Mountaineer.