• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by avgwarhawk

  1. 1966 Electra Brake Drum Confusion

    The only difference I see is more fins provide more surface area to dissipate heat. If the insides diameter and width where the shoes ride are the same as well as the race/bearing for the hub then the drum should work just fine.
  2. LOL you are hillarious !....I can attest to pulling a grade with just my butt in the car. My 54 struggled a grade to the point of having to almost drop to 1st gear. She survived the grade in 2nd gear. No trailer in tow. If I had trailer on forget it. Now one might say the 264 has less hp than the 322 and that is true but the 264 is not lugging hundreds of pounds additional body parts/nuts/bolts as found on the bigger Buicks. Not to mention by 3 legged goat has a 3 speed manual.
  3. Yes! Exactly. Eliminate the need to wire electric. I think this would be my first consideration running a 50 era Buick with generator. Next would be cooling the beastie. Radiator and transmission. Separate cooler for the transmission is something I would look to do.
  4. Concerning trailer brakes, do they still offer the brake master located in the tongue of the trailer where when brakes on the car are applied the dip action of the trailer tongue actuates the trailer brakes? I ask as this my alleviate the worry of figuring out electric brakes.
  5. My 57 Buick special project

    Nice project car! Looking forward to your pics.
  6. 1928 Model 54 Master

    Super looking Buick. Love the colors!!!!
  7. Hello from Italy!

    73 is one of my favorites! Enjoy!
  8. Chavis garage

    Nice work!
  9. Dead Mouse in Reatta

    Also, debris from trees and the like accumulate in the heater boxes over the years. Some water enters from a wash or rain. Next thing you know there is a bog in your dash festering away.
  10. Drove the 60 to AMC Dover AFB DE for a car show. What fun!
  11. 70 lesabre convert. Not mine

  12. Carburetor: WCFB 2197S idle problems

    For me, I would pull and clean. Reinstall. Drive.
  13. "Some rust in floors but nothing extreme. " What......
  14. What were they thinking?

    Go here: https://www.donotcall.gov Works great!
  15. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    The electric pump should pump through the original mechanical pump and run the car. Pump should be 5-6 pounds of pressure if I'm not mistaken. The vacuum portion on the mechanical pump should run the wipers if the portion of the pump is internally ok and...the wiper motor is internally ok. I do not run electrical pumps on mine. Never had a need to install one.
  16. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    http://nailheadbuick.com There are other places to get this fuel pump as well.
  17. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    It being the fuel pump? The white powder is old dried up gas and it byproducts. Put it back together and install on block. Disconnect the the hose from the pump to the carb. Connect the fuel tank hose to the newly cleaned pump. Turn of the engine and see if she will start to pump fuel. If so, connect to carb. If not replace or rebuild pump. Personally, I would purchase a pump that is ready to go and install.
  18. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    May have been a old bypass to the gas pedal start. You stated the engine turns when the gas pedal is depressed. Not sure what else that button could be. Maybe horn?
  19. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    As other mentioned, top portion of the pump is fuel. Bottom half is vacuum for the wiper motor. Your pump looks to have been rebuilt at one time. Just very clean looking to me. The other box thing...not sure what that is. Looks like a engine compartment heater perhaps.
  20. I'm starting this thread to talk 1960 power brakes. More specifically a power brake unit that does not release all the time. What I'm experiencing and only a recent development. Get a cup of coffee or beverage of your choice. This is the known facts: A. Entire brake system was rebuilt 3 years ago. Included the following: 1. Rebuilt master cylinder 2. Brake hoses replaced 3. Spring kits installed at all four wheels 4. New shoes at all four wheels 5. All metal plumbing replaced 6. Wheel cylinders replaced at all four wheels The car then sat and only driven 200 miles after said complete overhaul. Not much in terms of breaking in a new set of shoes. I have put about 2000 miles on the car in the past 2 months. Braking ability was ok but appeared to slowly fade. Then on a recent return trip from a show I had a panic stop where the pedal had the assist from the power unit and full braking power was applied but the pedal did not immediately return. I had enough speed to reach the side of the road while brake action was still taking place without by foot on the pedal! Within 10 seconds getting to the side of the road the pedal released and all was well. In case one is wondering...all 4 wheels are braking and it is not isolated to just one wheel or two wheels on the same axle. Getting out the trusty manual I read that it is possible the check valve assembly in the master cylinder could be blocked or having an issue. I order a new master cylinder and install. Problem still persists. Pedal is assisted by the power brake unit. All 4 wheels locked solid by the brake shoes. Only, more frequent now does the pedal stay stuck with the new master cylinder. So I rule out master cylinder as the issue. I also rule out a vacuum issue from the intake port or the reserve tank as I pulled both hoses allowing vacuum to escape. Pedal stuck to floor. Wheels locked. Reading the manual a bit closer I investigate major brake adjustment. Bear in mind the braking action and pedal feel after 2000 miles on a relatively new brake job was getting less than stellar. So, I adjust all 4 wheels as I normally do with brake drum equipped vehicles. Very little effort is required to feel braking action when driving. Car stops very well and equally(no pull). But I'm still a bit baffled and I'll explain why. Page 9-9 describes a condition where the master cylinder piston compensating holes my be plugged by dirt or covered by the piston primary cup when the brake pedal is released in the released position. The master cylinder is new and clean new fluid used. That rules out dirt in the compensating port. I note there is a spacer behind the master cylinder as indicated in the manual. I have no spacer. Second, there is tool to measure the piston on the power unit. It states to add gasket material as spacers depending on the gauge reading. If I may ask, does this adding of gasket material assist in the power unit piston to not fully push the master cylinder primary piston beyond compensating port? In other words, is it possible that full on pedal pressure is pushing the master cylinder piston past or just over the compensating port thus preventing fluid to return to the reservoir when the pedal is released? Have I some how stopped the issue by a major brake adjustment that now allows contact of the shoes sooner and the master cylinder piston does not need to move forward as far prior to the major brake adjustment? If this theory appears logical to you then perhaps a spacer behind the master cylinder extends the unit away from the power brake unit thus not allowing the master cylinder piston to require full travel of the bore this possibly covering the compensating port with the tail end of the piston. Or...the is something simply wrong with the power unit. What is your experience with spacers and power brake units? Has anyone had the magical power brake unit keep on braking and release in a few seconds or a minute later? PS. I'm happy it is actually braking. A pedal to the floor with no braking action I can do without.
  21. Let's Talk 1960 Buick Power Brakes

    By the way....thanks for the tip from those that mentioned Booster Dewey. Fast and friendly. Highly recommend.
  22. 1956 Roadmaster Carburetor or fuel pump issues

    1. I appears the gas pedal pressed to turn it over is working as designed. Leave that be. 2. Starts and runs when gas is poured into the carb. Good sign the ignition is working Check to see if anyone installed an electric fuel pump. Usually these are installed on the frame rail near the tank. If not. Look to mechanical pump not up to the task any longer. Replace or rebuild. If there is an electric fuel pump follow the wires to the hidden switch.
  23. Let's Talk 1960 Buick Power Brakes

    This set up has a piston that projects out of the booster(male) and inserts into the master cylinder(female). The piston from the booster has 2 rubber O rings to prevent fluid from getting into the booster. The piston pushes the master cylinder piston. My original booster the O rings were worn allow fluid to get past. Newly installed. Braking ability totally different than the original booster. No doubt the booster was done for and just a matter of time for it to stop function all together.
  24. Daily Video Vlog from the Nationals

    What helped me keep a relatively consistent heat was installing a 180 degree thermostat in my 264. When I had the 160 degree themostat the heat would steady climb to hot at highway speeds. I'm also of mind that highway speeds air does not flow well through the radiator. Like a buffer zone of dead air is created at speed. Could be out of my head on that. Possible some rusty scale in the water jackets?
  25. Daily Video Vlog from the Nationals

    Love the videos Mud.