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avgwarhawk last won the day on June 12

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About avgwarhawk

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  1. I read your thread. I have exactly the same issue. Fluid behind the master cylinder and pedal goes to full pressure and stays there. And, you are right...pressing the pedal goes fine then it looks possessed and depresses to full bore all by itself!!! Sometime it releases quickly. Other times it simply is full on braking. Car ain't moving!! Again, thanks for sharing your ills with yours and the remedy. I will let know how it goes with clean up on mine.
  2. Thank you for all the tips gents! I will R&R the booster tonight. Report my findings.
  3. There was fluid noted behind the master cylinder when I removed it to install the new master. What did you use to clean up the booster? You did physically separate the booster halves as shown in the manual?
  4. Your thoughts are an issue withing the power brake unit? I will check with the vacuum source off and the reserve tank depleted. If she sticks to the floor then I can suspect the master cylinder piston getting past the port. If that is the case a spacer should be used?
  5. I'm starting this thread to talk 1960 power brakes. More specifically a power brake unit that does not release all the time. What I'm experiencing and only a recent development. Get a cup of coffee or beverage of your choice. This is the known facts: A. Entire brake system was rebuilt 3 years ago. Included the following: 1. Rebuilt master cylinder 2. Brake hoses replaced 3. Spring kits installed at all four wheels 4. New shoes at all four wheels 5. All metal plumbing replaced 6. Wheel cylinders replaced at all four wheels The car then sat and only driven 200 miles after said complete overhaul. Not much in terms of breaking in a new set of shoes. I have put about 2000 miles on the car in the past 2 months. Braking ability was ok but appeared to slowly fade. Then on a recent return trip from a show I had a panic stop where the pedal had the assist from the power unit and full braking power was applied but the pedal did not immediately return. I had enough speed to reach the side of the road while brake action was still taking place without by foot on the pedal! Within 10 seconds getting to the side of the road the pedal released and all was well. In case one is wondering...all 4 wheels are braking and it is not isolated to just one wheel or two wheels on the same axle. Getting out the trusty manual I read that it is possible the check valve assembly in the master cylinder could be blocked or having an issue. I order a new master cylinder and install. Problem still persists. Pedal is assisted by the power brake unit. All 4 wheels locked solid by the brake shoes. Only, more frequent now does the pedal stay stuck with the new master cylinder. So I rule out master cylinder as the issue. I also rule out a vacuum issue from the intake port or the reserve tank as I pulled both hoses allowing vacuum to escape. Pedal stuck to floor. Wheels locked. Reading the manual a bit closer I investigate major brake adjustment. Bear in mind the braking action and pedal feel after 2000 miles on a relatively new brake job was getting less than stellar. So, I adjust all 4 wheels as I normally do with brake drum equipped vehicles. Very little effort is required to feel braking action when driving. Car stops very well and equally(no pull). But I'm still a bit baffled and I'll explain why. Page 9-9 describes a condition where the master cylinder piston compensating holes my be plugged by dirt or covered by the piston primary cup when the brake pedal is released in the released position. The master cylinder is new and clean new fluid used. That rules out dirt in the compensating port. I note there is a spacer behind the master cylinder as indicated in the manual. I have no spacer. Second, there is tool to measure the piston on the power unit. It states to add gasket material as spacers depending on the gauge reading. If I may ask, does this adding of gasket material assist in the power unit piston to not fully push the master cylinder primary piston beyond compensating port? In other words, is it possible that full on pedal pressure is pushing the master cylinder piston past or just over the compensating port thus preventing fluid to return to the reservoir when the pedal is released? Have I some how stopped the issue by a major brake adjustment that now allows contact of the shoes sooner and the master cylinder piston does not need to move forward as far prior to the major brake adjustment? If this theory appears logical to you then perhaps a spacer behind the master cylinder extends the unit away from the power brake unit thus not allowing the master cylinder piston to require full travel of the bore this possibly covering the compensating port with the tail end of the piston. Or...the is something simply wrong with the power unit. What is your experience with spacers and power brake units? Has anyone had the magical power brake unit keep on braking and release in a few seconds or a minute later? PS. I'm happy it is actually braking. A pedal to the floor with no braking action I can do without.
  6. Oil works just fine for me.
  7. My 60 Buick next too my bother's 60's Imperial:
  8. Over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge to a Father's Day Car Show:
  9. What is peculiar is the burnt piston top. Certainly this was the cause of destroyed rings. Yes, check taper. In my mind, the lack of ridge at the top of the cylinder leads me to believe there is not much mileage on this rebuild. The piston with hole on the top was a result of detonation or perhaps simply a weak spot in the piston. This resulted in a snowball of destruction to the rings. I suspect the cylinder will be fine with a hone. New piston and rings. That is just the positive thinking in me.
  10. Is the piston ring even present? I see the oil ring. That piston is a mess. What does the cylinder wall look like? Is there any huge chunks of in the oil pan?
  11. Yes!
  12. Ah, method to the madness!!!
  13. By the time you finish with all this nice lighting, wiring and drywall your wife will no allow the Buick in the garage!
  14. Good to know. Lately these cars from the 80-90's have been appearing at car shows. Many with badly worn rubber products or simply missing.
  15. Not sure where the rubber bumper fill between the bumper and the fender can be found. These were great cars. My pop had an 83. Remember the day he picked it up. Velor maroon interior with matching carpet and dash. Maroon paint and rally wheels. 231 V6. The ride was exceptional. Can still smell that new car smell. Picked it up at Miller Buicks in Towson.