Bud Tierney

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Everything posted by Bud Tierney

  1. Somehow the 1908-09 Bendix got onto my Continental MMCo engine list; googling around for a verification just confused things... I found one site that appeared to describe three Bendix models with 2Cyl opposed engines, mentioning, almost as an afterthought, another model with a 4Cyl water cooled engine... Then, on EBay, is a Bendix brochure (which at one time had come thru Autolit) several pages of which are on the Ebay listing, one showing a 4Cyl inline AIR Cooled engine... Does anyone here have a book that mentions the Bendix and/or whether that 4Cyl was water or air cooled, and mentions the engine builder?? Cont;l Engine Co, Chicago and Dallas City IL, advertised 4 inlines, either water or air cooled; it might be theirs... Any comments appreciated...
  2. Sorry, never learned to link...the engine illus is on EBay #351583344467; it's an AutoLit sale, reduced from their own website.. It's just my own idle curiosity; piqued when I saw a 20s or so Cont'l MMCo Muskegon ad saying their engines were in 120 makes... Just for fun, started a Cont'l list some time back, limited to pre-war cars, trucks and a few commercil vehicles (cabs, hearses, etc.).. .With my limited resources and time, I'm up to around 400 or so, with twenty or so still unsourced (realized after a bit the names were useless unless sourced somewhere)...subject, of course, to catalog errors, misprints etc, AND the 1895?1905? or so to 1913/14 or so life of Pfeiffers Contl Eng Co, the "imitation" Cont'l...
  3. Please see my post in the Horseless Carraige forum here. Any comments appreciated...
  4. How To Soften Rubber?????

    50 yrs or so ago they used to sell a thin black liquid they called "rubber lubricant" for drying out/dried out rubber bushings etc..you brushed it on, it was supposed to be absorbed... 'I know I used it, but don't recall if any good...you might google rubber lubricant and see if anything comes up...
  5. Old solid rubber tire 34 x 6

    If no takers here, you mi8ght try the Nash Club or the Nash forum here---per an Aug 1918 Power Wagon spec list, , the 1918 Nash model 3018 2Ton wore 34x6 on the rear, and probably the same for close years.. That was not the Jeffery/Nash Quad (model 4017) that, per the same reference, wore 36x5s all around, but a "civilian" truck Nash also built... 34x6 doesn't appear to've been a very popular size...
  6. While not quite everyone in the 1900s-teens etc were building 4 cylinder verticals, a large number were, at least per old ads in the trade magazines of the period (Automobile Trade Journals and Directories, the various Motors, etc).. Does anyone know of a Reference work covering early 4cyl auto/truck engines, or covering early auto'truck engines that includes the early 4 verticals, or an Early Car or Truck book that includes a lot of engine ID info ( maker; engine model's too much to hope for)??? (I have Std Cat US Cars and Mroz's Truck/Comm'l Ency...I can't afford Georgano's).. Automotive Industries' The Automobile began publishing yearly lists including engine maker around 1916-17 or so,available online ( prior years omitted engine builder) were there any such lists published, available online, for earlier years by other periodicals?? I found one, can't recall magazine, but its tables are up-down on my screen, and rotating my image is apparently complicated, and rotating my head painful......
  7. First, many thxx to all for replies... LARRY---that was "vertical" (upright?) as opposed to "opposed" or horiz-opposed (flat) engines...most of the old ads specified whether engines were opposed or vertical, (often building/selling both types) with verticals gradually replacing flats.. Yes, the Dyke's are good references; originally thought about acquiring a set, but the exchequer wouldn't cover it...I'll look for some with full text online... The earlier, the less info, as 1912S set out above; my old catalogs pretty well cover mid-20s up, The Automobile lists show engine maker from about 1916 up, so the prior period is the ghostly era... DH---That Motor list seems to be basically the same as published by The Automobile in a slightly different format, and may contain other info (i didn't try to compare a set as I was only interested in engine make).. I'll try to bring up some earlier sets, if any exist... Lou Philips book Cars has some engine maker info, and I believe some is in The Brass Era book;...I haven't found any of the Annual Handbooks online so don't know about them... 1912S---only too true...and complicated by firms like Milwaukee Auto Engine & Supply Co, later Milwaukee Auto Engine Supply Co, which first advertised a (singular) 4 cyl vertical, as if the builder, and then a few months later advertised 1-12 cyls, 12-130HP, implying being an engine seller, or possibly both .. So many questions, so little time.....
  8. 31 Nash 6-60 engine pistons

    It's probably not much help---a 36 parts catalog lists that piston for the 30--32 Single 6, 450. 660. 960 and the 1932 Big Six 1060, if you're considering used...
  9. Ahrens Fox Help Needed

    Just noticed this old post---spaamfaa.org is another old fire apparatus site that might be helpful...
  10. Just noticed this old post... You said "the" Lyc 8... If that meant you thought they used only one Lyc 8 29-32, a 36 parts catalog lists five---GR and GS 27/8 bore, MD and MDH 31/4 bore, and HF and HFB 33/8 bore... My apologies if you meant any Henney chassis using any of the above...
  11. 1936 Cord

    Don't jump to conclusions re' the west coast climate---while I've only been thru Walla Walla once (that was enough) I do believe it's generally in the dry part of the state...(I'm in Portland, OR)... The eastern 2/3 of both OR and WA are generally dry; get out an atlas and you'll see lots of miles and miles of nothing but miles and miles...hard to develop without water
  12. Anybody know what ~1907 car this is?

    Both the illus and the circa 06 Olds pic are fascinating--- Leyendeckers chauffeur?? looks uniformed, but his cap at a rakish angle implies some kind of closer relationship to?? If her car, a no-no; people were always talking about attractive women and their attractive chauffeurs...,more likely his car.... Obviously looking at something/somethings off in the distance or he wouldn't've had to point something out; both their expressions are more somber, intent than amused or excited. hers possibly because she and the chauffeur seem to be looking in a different direction than he's pointing... Many of these upscale illustrators magazine cover illus's were titled; if you have the mag look on the page with all the publisher/publication data for a credit...Leyendecker did do beautiful work; personally, I prefer Coles Phillips... If it was 1917 instead of 07 I'd guess she was one of the swells that used to tun out to watch the gories--oops--glories of war... The circa 06 Olds has what appears to be businessmen in the back, one somewhat casually dressed (an engineer?) ; the beefy type behind the wheel looks like he's pretending to be the period Barney Oldfield, gong down the road as if the finance company was chasing him, all dressed in the latest "automobiling" styles, while the military looking goggled type looks more like a professional driver...(everyone's eyes are on the camera, but not Beefy; he's off in his own world)... Out doing some performance demos for the brass, and Beefy couldn't resist getting a picture of hiimself fulfilling a fantasy???
  13. 1929 reo speedwagon

    reoclub.org website says it includes cars and trucks...
  14. Lycoming 8-98 Parts Sources

    If you're still looking for parts you might try a new post including the Lycoming ID (supposedly their GU) in the title... Lots of big and/or powerful cars were cut up in the depression years simply because too few people could afford to maintain/feed them, the engines farmed out to all kinds of work. I think one of these Lycoming threads mentioned an 8 found in a sawmill or some such... Should you have a GU, a 36 replacement parts catalog says it shares piston assemblies with the GC and GUC 8s and the WSG and WTG 6s...two piston ass'blys are listed: Nelson Bohnalite and Gray Iron, both "original type". I don't know if that means the factory offered the choice or if the parts company was offering it. There was a valve change--shared with WTG, WSG 6s to #75381, only with GC, GUC after...(same source) There was a bearing change--shared with GR after #GR21691 for GU to GU35453, shared with GC for GUC after GU35453... (same source). If looking for NOS/NORS parts might help to note the other engines... Good luck!OOPS---should've proofed---should've said bearings shared with GC, GUC for GU after GU35453
  15. Loose motor mounts on early cars

    This's a new one on me... While you didn't specify what you meant by "early",, in my own history and experience (mid 20s cars up) I've never heard this before (to the best of my knowledge, I've not seen "solid" motor mounts, without any "cushioning" of any kind)....as with all the comments above, I would think leaving the engine rattling around would be MORE likely to break/bend/damage things.. Share with us where you heard this idea...
  16. 1917 Auburn Engine

    DENNIS JASANY----got a copy of your request on Hemmings Blog, but it won't print out when I bring the Blog section up!! The last item showing on my set is the last of the mower comments... Anyway, WHICH Cont'l do you need??? My old catalogs, weak reeds to lean on, show 7N, 7W and 9N for various 1917s...
  17. Dry Clutch Replacing Wet lutch 1936 6Cyl

    Honestly can't recall if Ted said anything about having to replace flywheel...he did have a machine shop of sorts, so could've machined new bolt circles in a replecement, and he did build at least one neat Hot Rod type everyone called "a Ted Lee Special"., out of inventory... On the light flywheel question: I always assumed Hudson used the light flywheel to boost performance of their 3x5---don't know if light flywheels used on other Hudson or any other stock engines...hot rodders were always shaving their flywheels... Don't recall any feeling of reduced performance, as if a heavier flywheel had been adapted, not that we drove this to its performance limits---in those days We were mainly interested in babying it along to keep it going with a minimum of expense...longest trips it took were 60+ mile distances between towns (southern NM)...
  18. Rummaging around in memory (Two Piece Brake Pedal???) remembered clutch went bad on that 36 6cyl...' Local ex hot rodder who owned local wrecking yard,, where we bought our parts and an occasional car, sympathized, but didn't want to replace wet clutch, instead advised he'd often wondered if dry clutch could be fitted... we said 'be our guest'... He did, in fact, fit a dry clutch, I assume out of his wrecking yard inventory, but swore he'd never do another, giving specific reasons I can't recall now except that fitting washers for spacing was extremely frustrating, if that makes sense....the dry clutch worked well as long as car ran.... Was fitting a dry clutch highly unusual, or was this often done as cars aged???
  19. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    Yes, Virginia (as the old editor once said) there really was a two piece brake pedal (Well, the editor was talking about Santa Claus, but this was beginn9ing to sound like a myth, too)... Always nice to be reassured aging isn't taking one completely round the bend... Got this question on the HET non-member forum, more by accident than design, and Geoff Clark was kind enough to post verification there; sorry, never learned to link... Confusion was partly my own fault for using inappropriate technical terms for parts involved...reminds me of Churchill: "We're two nations...separated by a common language..."...
  20. How many Hudsons used the two piece (clevis and bolt together) brake pedals??? Had a 36 6cyl 4dr (jalopy days) on which the bolt worked loose, fell out---stepped on brake, top half slipped thru clevis to floorboard without enough friction to engage brakes and contacted/shorted out starter solenoid with lots of sparks and elec smoke... No crash or fire, but disconcerting, to say the least......
  21. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: Progress (lack of) report---so near, and yet so far... Jake Jacobs posted the whole 117 page 36 Hudson/Terraplane parts book under my two piece brake pedal post on smokstak... Brake pedal assembly and various parts thereof are listed and illus on illus BZ...but there wasn't any BZ with the parts book... However, as a teaser, there is the whole hyd system illus on illus "C", page 12, which includes a line sketch of the brake pedal; that sketch shows what COULD be a "joint" in top and bottom parts, or could just be a representation of a forged area of a one piece pedal... Sorry, never learned to link, but if you'd care to look at the illus and list of brake pedal assembly parts (pgs 16, 17)would appreciate your opinion
  22. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: Just found your post re' the HET Club site; didn't know you get get on their forum without joining... My own curiosity piqued now, will try to get both questions onto HET forum .Many thxx!!! Bud (Sigh) Looks like no luck; the street sign pix were so dark on my set sign might've said "Bridge Out" and I wouldn't've seen it---the other kept me going in circles over choosing payment type for only limited online access... I either need a new set or an eye transplant, or both...
  23. Dry Clutch Replacing Wet lutch 1936 6Cyl

    I can't recall why we let Ted try to fit a dry clutch, but I would guess it was a combination of $$$ for new Hudson parts and Ted's offer of no expense to us to let him play with it... You have to remember that these were just worn out old cars, not nice units, and that we were chronically short of $$$ in those days, keeping them going with baling wire and friction tape...duct tape would've been a luxury if we'd known it existed...not that things've improved that much in that department...
  24. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: I'm as mystified as you...I can see NO advantage to a two piece setup. On the contrary, I only see the danger of disconnection, as happened to me...and as best as I recall, the joint fitted so beautifully it seemed factory... I assume the lower end of the under the floorboards piece was on a rotating joint with a link to the master cylinder, which must've been along the frame... Dying of curiosity now; hopefully an owner of a 36 6cyl will advise us of what he/she finds... Talking about this jogged my memory on another poor design feature on a generally very nice if plain car (mine was probably the lowest price model)... The front axle had two torque arms that ran from the axle, parallel to the frame back to each side of the frame, approx under the driver area, used 35-39 per my Motor (nice illus in my 35-46 issue).. These arms had holes the tie rod ran thru... In winter, is slushy times, holes would pack with snow/slush. If it refroze overnight, steering was frozen next morning... I was less intelligent then; never thought about greasing tie rod or something like that. The 34 had axleflex, which seemed to work well; don't recall what the 35 had....... OOPS forgot to mention brake pedal perfectly matched clutch pedal, so if cobbled either used factory pedal or changed both to match??? Curiouser and curiouser, as Alice used to say...
  25. 1918 Bearcat Starter Motor

    Sorry about late reply; don't usually follow individual ,makes... If still looking for starter you may be asking too limited a question... Electricals almost always acquired from vendors; your starter may've been used on other makes---try posting m'f'r of starter and starter model # from tag on starter...