Bud Tierney

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Bud Tierney last won the day on October 12 2015

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About Bud Tierney

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/17/1931

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    pitybud@q.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Portland, OR
  • Interests:
    Presently---which US proprietary engines (Buda, Cont, Erd/Chief, Herc, Milwaukee, etc) ...got into which US car/truck makes
  1. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    Yes, Virginia (as the old editor once said) there really was a two piece brake pedal (Well, the editor was talking about Santa Claus, but this was beginn9ing to sound like a myth, too)... Always nice to be reassured aging isn't taking one completely round the bend... Got this question on the HET non-member forum, more by accident than design, and Geoff Clark was kind enough to post verification there; sorry, never learned to link... Confusion was partly my own fault for using inappropriate technical terms for parts involved...reminds me of Churchill: "We're two nations...separated by a common language..."...
  2. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: Progress (lack of) report---so near, and yet so far... Jake Jacobs posted the whole 117 page 36 Hudson/Terraplane parts book under my two piece brake pedal post on smokstak... Brake pedal assembly and various parts thereof are listed and illus on illus BZ...but there wasn't any BZ with the parts book... However, as a teaser, there is the whole hyd system illus on illus "C", page 12, which includes a line sketch of the brake pedal; that sketch shows what COULD be a "joint" in top and bottom parts, or could just be a representation of a forged area of a one piece pedal... Sorry, never learned to link, but if you'd care to look at the illus and list of brake pedal assembly parts (pgs 16, 17)would appreciate your opinion
  3. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: Just found your post re' the HET Club site; didn't know you get get on their forum without joining... My own curiosity piqued now, will try to get both questions onto HET forum .Many thxx!!! Bud (Sigh) Looks like no luck; the street sign pix were so dark on my set sign might've said "Bridge Out" and I wouldn't've seen it---the other kept me going in circles over choosing payment type for only limited online access... I either need a new set or an eye transplant, or both...
  4. Dry Clutch Replacing Wet lutch 1936 6Cyl

    I can't recall why we let Ted try to fit a dry clutch, but I would guess it was a combination of $$$ for new Hudson parts and Ted's offer of no expense to us to let him play with it... You have to remember that these were just worn out old cars, not nice units, and that we were chronically short of $$$ in those days, keeping them going with baling wire and friction tape...duct tape would've been a luxury if we'd known it existed...not that things've improved that much in that department...
  5. Rummaging around in memory (Two Piece Brake Pedal???) remembered clutch went bad on that 36 6cyl...' Local ex hot rodder who owned local wrecking yard,, where we bought our parts and an occasional car, sympathized, but didn't want to replace wet clutch, instead advised he'd often wondered if dry clutch could be fitted... we said 'be our guest'... He did, in fact, fit a dry clutch, I assume out of his wrecking yard inventory, but swore he'd never do another, giving specific reasons I can't recall now except that fitting washers for spacing was extremely frustrating, if that makes sense....the dry clutch worked well as long as car ran.... Was fitting a dry clutch highly unusual, or was this often done as cars aged???
  6. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    JON: I'm as mystified as you...I can see NO advantage to a two piece setup. On the contrary, I only see the danger of disconnection, as happened to me...and as best as I recall, the joint fitted so beautifully it seemed factory... I assume the lower end of the under the floorboards piece was on a rotating joint with a link to the master cylinder, which must've been along the frame... Dying of curiosity now; hopefully an owner of a 36 6cyl will advise us of what he/she finds... Talking about this jogged my memory on another poor design feature on a generally very nice if plain car (mine was probably the lowest price model)... The front axle had two torque arms that ran from the axle, parallel to the frame back to each side of the frame, approx under the driver area, used 35-39 per my Motor (nice illus in my 35-46 issue).. These arms had holes the tie rod ran thru... In winter, is slushy times, holes would pack with snow/slush. If it refroze overnight, steering was frozen next morning... I was less intelligent then; never thought about greasing tie rod or something like that. The 34 had axleflex, which seemed to work well; don't recall what the 35 had....... OOPS forgot to mention brake pedal perfectly matched clutch pedal, so if cobbled either used factory pedal or changed both to match??? Curiouser and curiouser, as Alice used to say...
  7. 1918 Bearcat Starter Motor

    Sorry about late reply; don't usually follow individual ,makes... If still looking for starter you may be asking too limited a question... Electricals almost always acquired from vendors; your starter may've been used on other makes---try posting m'f'r of starter and starter model # from tag on starter...
  8. Two Piece Bolt Together Brake Pedals

    Not surprised at your questioning reply; I'll try to be a little clearer, but bear with me as we're talking 65+ years ago... Top "section" included forged actual pedal surface with curved round rod (3/8-1/2 inch??) that extended down into and just under floorboards, altho may technically been part of firewall, don't remember floor design that clearly. At lower end of rod, on top of rod, was machined out half moon area, probably 1/2to 3/4 inch from lower end of rod, probably into about a third of the rods diameter.. This forging was only connected to the "lower " section of pedal assembly (lower section completely under floorboards/firewall). This lower section was connected to the master cyl.... I don't recall actual location and linkage to master cyl, but lower section had a rod that extended up to meet the lower end of upper section that was protruding thru flbds/frwall. This rod was topped by a clevis taking a round bolt When the lower end of the pedal section was fitted into the clevis, the machined out half moon fit the clevis holes exactly, so that when the right size bolt slipped thru the clevis it filled the half moon space perfectly, As I recall, it didn't have the look of something gobbered together, and we were all too familiar with gobbering things together in those days... Hopefully 30s Hudson/Terraoieces (my apologies, couldn't resist) owners will be running out to look at their brake pedals and will advise.. Also later had 34 Terriblepain (oops) and a 35 Hudson coupe (jalopies), but never thought to check pedals.... Would've sent a sketch but, since a meltdown, only transmits in GB instead of KB...
  9. How many Hudsons used the two piece (clevis and bolt together) brake pedals??? Had a 36 6cyl 4dr (jalopy days) on which the bolt worked loose, fell out---stepped on brake, top half slipped thru clevis to floorboard without enough friction to engage brakes and contacted/shorted out starter solenoid with lots of sparks and elec smoke... No crash or fire, but disconcerting, to say the least......
  10. 1948 Master cylinder, can i upgrade to a 2 reservoir unit?

    Gave Hudson pat on the back; forgot about their needing a klunk on the head... Driving 36 6cyl 4dr in small town downtown (jalopy years). Approaching intersection, brake pedal fell to floor amid sparks and elec smoke...got stopped with emergency, no crash, no fire (no cross traffic, pulled pedal up by hand)... Turns out brake pedal in TWO parts, one above floorboards to just below floorboards, other below floorboards connected to brakes...'Lower part has clevis joint top; upper part round rod with half moon cut in top of rod. A bolt goes thru clevis and cut, holding brake pedal parts together. What happened was bolt loosened, worked out; when stepped on brake, round rod top slid down thru clevis without moving lower part enough to engage brakes, DOWN ONTO STARTER SOLENOID, shorting it out, spewing sparks and smoke. Some designer was really asleep when that went through.
  11. 1948 Master cylinder, can i upgrade to a 2 reservoir unit?

    It's completely true that the old single hyd circuit brakes were completely reliable if at all decently maintained, and that the hand (emergency) brake was generally almost as good for rear brakes, .or I wouldn't be alive now It's also true that that system had one glaring flaw---any serious leak, or a break in a line equalled no wheel brakes, which, I know from experience, can be disconcerting, to say the least (since, I never move a car without stepping on the brake, just to make sure they're still there)... This doesn't mean I'm recommending replacement; the odds of such an incident are vanishingly small on maintained systems; but it is there, and ANY changes or oddities in brake "feel" should be investigated... Hudson had a system of hooking the emergency (rear wheel cables) brakes directly to the brake pedal---if pedal went past factory travel to engage hyd's, emergencies would take up before pedal hit the floor (there's nothing quite like the feeling of sailing along and a brake pedal suddenly falling to the floor...)...
  12. What size fan belt 1923 Moon

    Just to muddy things a little---1938 little Gates lists Moon 6-40 (Newport in size section) 23-26 as Gates then #833 flat 1x40 (1x401/4 in a later catalog) 38 catalog lists 15 makes using---sorry, no Buick---including Dodge (C) 4cyl 1927, Dodge (P) 124 4cyl 27-28, Durant (P) 60, 63, 65, 66 29-30, sorry, no Velie...I'm sure the "C" and "P" mean Comm'l or passenger...
  13. Grant Six Firewall Tag

    Just noticed an interesting little bit about Falls... King Products June 1932 catalog (Engine parts, front end bushings) doesn't list any Falls engines.. However, their March 1936 Master Catalog does, losting a few 4 and 6s under piston assembly, one model under valves, and seven *two types) under bearings... For the T, TT, V and early K models it lists a replacement insert rod bearing, to replace the old poured rods, NLA through that company, at least... My understanding is that while offering replacement rods using inserts to replace older poured rods was not rare, it was uncommon, generally limited to high-production number engines......
  14. Grant Six Firewall Tag

    As lump says above, Grant owned Walker engine until the end (acquired H J Walker Mfg Co March 1920, sold just before Receivership 1923 per Std Cat)... However, my old parts catalogs are all over the place, listing Walker engines being used as early as 1915...these old parts catalogs often do not agree on models/years or engines, but the Grant listings are particularly contradictory re' Falls or Walker engines in specific models/years...(only Falls or Walkers are listed)... Never researched Walker; name shows up rarely (30 McCord catalog lists a Walker 6C OHV 31/16 x 41/2, per that catalog used in Grant 20-23 and Kelsey1923; but under Grant lists an unidentified Walker 6cyl 3x41/2 and the 6C...it would've been unusual if falls and Walker both didn't also sell engines to other makers who claimed as "own" or who do not so list in my catalogs That 1930 catalog only lists two Falls engines, an unidentified 31/8x41/4 6cyl 1917-22 and their T-8000, also 31/8x 41/4 1923=25, but apparently a different engine or a major upgrade taking different gaskets...I believe at least four or five different bore Falls are listed in catalogs, as well as a Falls 4cyl, for Grant... For researchers, there was another Grant, the Grant Six, built 1912-13 in Cleveland, unrelated and before our Grant, but easily confused if dates not accurate...
  15. Starter

    When the starter was "checked", did they say in so many words that it was checked under load???...starters can perform well with a worn engine, but be a bit overloaded with new rings/higher compression etc..... Does it have a removable band for inspection of commutator, brush condition, spring tension, etc, or are you certain all this was "checked"??? You should be making a list of all the things you've checked, just for your own convenience,; sometimes reviewing the list will jog your memory as to something you haven't already thought to check.. You didn't define "struggling"---we're all probably assuming you mean slower engine turning over than before rebuilding...