fast_dave

EDIT: OK - I found the answer at PerTronix webpage and updated this question for other with the same question: "A resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment. They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of the PerTronix Ignitor System"

What about when using a PerTronix 1181 ignitor points eliminator?

Hey Guys - Vehicle: 1965 Buick Riviera GS with all electric options. Around 5 years ago, during a full body restoration, the car suffered an electrical mishap that obviously damaged the electrical system. Since then, there's been a few self proclaimed auto electricians that have had their hands into the electrical system, BUT the car continues to have electrical issues. Hot wiring harness and the acrid smell of electrical system smoke has dictated that for the safety of the car, it's just stayed parked in a garage for 5 years. I know that this description of the electrical issues this car is experiencing is described in a broad stroke, but that's where it's at. I also know this subject has been discussed before, but the times are quickly changing as these rare GS cars, especially well-optioned and well documented examples continue to increase in value. So - with that said, is there anybody in the US that has stepped up to the plate and specializes in refurbishing/renewing/replacing the electrical systems on these 1st Gen Cars? Somebody that has so successfully done this that they are gaining a reputation as the "Go To Guy"? Thanks and looking forward to your replies, fast_dave

RivNut/Ed - Minutes before I re-checked this thread for any activity, I was just looking in the CLASSIFIEDS of this month's RIVIEW and saw the note from RAY that Rally America is not accepting Riviera Wheels for re-chrome work... Guess I'll have to continue researching this subject on the 'Net...

Bringing this tread back from the dead: Can anyone recommend a firm that can be trusted to refurbish and re-chrome/repaint original 65 GS Rims? By refurbish - to clarify - I mean that they can check each wheel for trueness, and repair if necessary.

I agree - I'm trying to get the whole story as well. My bro-in-law thinks that all this can be solved by throwing parts at it. From reading what you guys have written, I can clearly see that it's not that simple, and know that if I blindly get involved, I will spend a LOT of time at the post office sending parts over and over and over. Thanks for bearing with me - I'm pulling teeth in Sweden (over the internet) trying to establish what the gas gauge is "indicating" I will keep you all advise and thank ALL of you heartily for ALL of your help. Special shout-out to Alini and KongaMan Sincerely, fast_dave

My bad - I'm having a little trouble understanding this, could you please clarify ?!

OK - the firm in Sweden that did the frame-off restoration installed the battery cables onto the wrong battery posts... Positive to Negtive, and Negative to Positive... I'm told that somehow the car started with this issue, BUT major electrical issues followed - this being one of them. Apparently two auto electrical shops in Sweden have rewired the car, but this is an outstanding issue. I do not know if the 2 electrical shops have PROPERLY tested the fuel gauge and tank sending gauge, OR are just throwing their hands up and thinking that replacement parts should be thrown at the problem. From your posts I understand that these parts weren't standardized (63, 64, 65) and I'm just here trying to prevent my bro-in-law throwing parts & money at it.

Thanks for ALL of the replies, guys! LOTS of great info!!! Looks like I'll have my bro-in-law start by applying the K.I.S.S. principle, and start by checking for any obvious wire disconnection at the Tank Fuel Sending Unit. Beyond that, going towards "step 2" - allow me to throw this question into the ring: Is there an gas gauge/fuel sender fuse or circuit that can get "shorted out" or "fried" when doing a frame off restoration ??? I know the electrics in Riv's are it's Achilles Heel, and during a restoration moving around wiring harness' that have been in place 51 years can cause issues...

My bro-in-laws 65 Riv GS (with factory A/C) had a frame off restoration, and we've come to find out that the restorer shorted out the either: the in tank fuel sender or the gas gauge or both... First question: Is the Dashboard Fuel Indication Gauge from a 63, 64, 65 "UNIVERSAL" or did GM make a different one for each model or? First Observation: I'm told that the factory equipped A/C Rives have two (2) fuel lines going to the fuel tank sender unit - is this the case? Thanks in advance for your help as we try to figure this out! fast_dave

In my 30+ years of working on cars, one thing I've learned is that the manufacturer builds the entire vehicle around the heater core. My vote is to rebuild or replace it now while you have easy access.

Classic Exhaust sells their systems on Ebay, and that's how my bro-in-law "Leif" in Sweden found them. He asked me to check them out, and I contacted them via e-mail and telephone. Communication w/ Classic was always prompt, efficient, and answered our many questions. When my-bro-in law Leif and I were satisfied, the "trigger" was finally pulled, and I worked with Classic Exhaust to provide an entire STAINLESS exhaust system for my bro-in-laws 65 GS, and together we worked with a freight forwarder to ship it on to Sweden (via DHL Air Freight). In six days, the exhaust system arrived in Sweden in perfect condition. I visited Sweden this summer, and got to see the installed exhaust system while the Riv was on a lift - it was flawless and looked like a factory fit. I also met "Mr. Jocke Bengtson" the local legend in Harnosand Sweden that installed and welded up the complete exhaust system. He said that it fit PERFECTLY and required no "big hammer" fitting whatsoever, it slid in like it came from Buick. Jocke said he wouldn't hesitate recommending Classic Exhaust's work to anyone who was considering them, and Leif and I also agree. Hope that helps!

Thanks guys - I will pass this info on!

A good friend of my bro-in-law in Sweden has a 1968 Chrysler 300 with Disc Brakes. The passenger side lower ball joint has gone bad and the only supplier we can find that can provide this part is Rare Parts in Stockton CA. Rare Parts wants the core (entire lower control arm) for each side in addition to $345 X (2) = $690 TOTAL w/o Shipping to repair both sides!!! Question: I don't think this is rocket science, but rather a case of only one guy in the US choosing to provide this service. Any guess as to what lower ball joint Rare Parts is using to rebuild the lower control arm, and if there is any other industrial shop that could provide this service (like a driveline shop)???? Any ideas are appreciated!

$55 - $65 for a "12 volt Liner Actuator" on Ebay Motors 12 volt linear actuator | eBay