Farmallregular

Members
  • Content count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Farmallregular

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/16/1952
  1. Farmallregular

    1924/5? Dodge parts

    I'm interested in the headlights. What other small pieces to do you have? I'd be interested in the axle, but I suspect shipping would be a killer. I'm located near Denver. Drop me a private e-mail with prices and let me know what else you have. Thanks, Keith
  2. Farmallregular

    DB Coupe Vin Help

    According to the mechanics information manual, 898054 corresponds to a build date of early May 1923, which would be a 1923 model year. The frame number is the same as the number found on the data plate on the toe board. Here in Colorado that is the VIN number...the current descriptive VIN format didn't come along until much later. Check with your local motor vehicle office to see how to register it. Keith
  3. Farmallregular

    12 V system ground on starter switch?

    According to the mechanics information manual there were several version of the starter switch use, with different terminal locations. Here's some extracted text: "The type 8100-A starting switch and cut-out was used from car 559,652 to car 728,303. It is exactly similar in construction except for a change in the location of the terminals...the battery and generator terminals are changed about, on this type switch, so that the wires do not cross...the terminal is grounded to the switch case, and to the steering column by a metal strap, instead of to the vacuum tank bracket by means of a wire, as in the type 8100 switch. The type 11865-A switch was used from car 728,303 until the six-volt electrical system was installed on which the 15850 cut-out and 15380 switch is used. The 11865-A switch differs from the two previous types in that the series and shunt windings are not combined, and the contact points are made of metal instead of carbon. The ground terminal has been changed about with the indicator terminal." Keith
  4. Farmallregular

    parts

    Jeff, I hadn't planned on going back up this weekend. I'll send you a private e-mail. Keith
  5. Farmallregular

    25 inch wooden wheels

    Bill, sent you a private e-mail with my address. Thanks for your trust... Keith
  6. Farmallregular

    parts

    Where in Parker are you? We're east of Parker off of Singing Hills Road, just over the Elbert county line (although we still have a Parker address). I'm not sure which vehicles he's actually interested in selling, since I wasn't looking for a complete vehicle. He has a couple of unique IH trucks that I was looking at, but the only Dodge truck I remember is one I'm pretty sure he wasn't interested in selling. Just sent him a list of bits & pieces I'm still looking for. We spent most of an afternoon just going through his collection before we got down to buying specific parts, so didn't get a chance to look for everything I needed for my '24 touring. Keith
  7. Farmallregular

    parts

    I was up there last week, he has quite a collection, including a number of complete, nice antique cars. I bought some stuff, and am putting together a list of bits & pieces I need so he can look before I go back up. Plan on spending several hours looking at cars... I wasn't interested in a car, so I didn't talk prices, but he did indicate he was interested in selling one or more of the vehicles. Keith
  8. Farmallregular

    25 inch wooden wheels

    I could use all of them that don't have the holes for the rear brake drums drilled in them. Rear wheels have been re-built, but the fronts currently on the car are the wrong size. I have a set of the correct front wheels, but some of the spokes aren't in very good condition. What are you asking? Thanks, Keith
  9. Farmallregular

    25 inch wooden wheels

    Are you still interested in getting rid of the spokes. I'm looking at re-building front wheels for my 24 Touring. Thanks, Keith
  10. Farmallregular

    6V Ignition Troubleshooting(PLEASE HELP!!!)

    All Kettering ignition systems work the same way, regardless of voltage or polarity. There are some minor differences in details with polarity and voltage, but general operation is consistent. Here's a quick way to check what's going on using a test light. You can use a 12 volt light on a six volt system, it just won't be very bright. You can also use an analog meter, but a test light is easier to watch. Digital meters don't do well at measuring pulses... First, check to make sure the light is working and has a good ground. Attach the clip to a ground and touch the probe to a known hot source or the hot battery post - light should light. Touch the probe to the following points, crank the engine, and observe the light: Hot (battery) side of coil - light should be "on" steady. No light means you're not getting power to the coil. Light pulsing on or off, or varying in intensity, means you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the power circuit. Point side of coil - light should pulse as the points open and close..."on" when points are open, "off" when points are closed. Steady "on" means either the points aren't closing or the wire between the coil and points is broken. Steady "off" means either the points aren't opening or something (most likely the wire between the coil and points) is shorted to ground. If the points are in fact opening and closing correctly, as indicated by the test light pulsing when the engine is cranked, you should have spark at the output of the coil. You can check this by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and holding the distributor end near the engine block while cranking (not with your fingers unless you like getting zapped). You should have a nice fat blue spark at least 1/4" long. No spark at the output of the coil (and asuming the points are working correctly as determined above) means either a bad coil or a bad condenser. A weak yellow spark is generally a bad condenser. If you have spark at the output of the coil, reconnect it to the center post of the distributor, and repeat the check for spark at the end of one or more spark plug wires. If you have spark at the coil but not at the plugs, you most likely have either a bad/broken rotor, a bad distributor cap, or bad high tension wires. If you have spark at the plugs, check to make sure the distributor was timed correctly when the engine was assembled. As each cylinder comes up on compression, the rotor should point to the corresponding terminal on the distributor cap. If you set static timing so that the points just open (use the test light) at top dead center, the engine should run. Once it's running, you can set timing per the applicable manual. Keith
  11. Farmallregular

    1922-1926 Dodge Brothers 12v - Fan Belt

    The fan hub should be mounted on a pivot to allow adjustment of belt tension; depending on where its positioned now you may just have to tilt it down a little. Loosen the clamp bolt to adjust it. Keith
  12. Farmallregular

    Wanted: NOS Rope Seal

    I rather doubt you'll find anything with asbestos in it these days.... That being said, any bearing & seal place should either have or be able to order whatever size rope packing you need, then just cut it to length. I bought some for one my antique tractors at Rocket Seals in Denver...they had the appropriate size in stock. Keith
  13. Farmallregular

    Running Board BRacket

    That was me asking...looked at the ones on ebay, but none fit. Thanks, Keith
  14. Farmallregular

    FS: 1923, '25, '27 DB Touring Parts

    Any chance you might have a steering wheel from the '25? I also need the center running board brackets for both sides if you have those. Thanks, Keith
  15. Hi, just joined, and just acquired a 1924 Dodge touring car. Runs and drives, but needs some mechanical work, interior upholstery, a new top, and a paint job. Also discovered it has the wrong steering wheel. The center hub on the current wheel is way bigger than the taper on the steering shaft, and looks like someone tried to shim it. There's also no room for the horn collector ring. Anyway, I spent some time searching the web for the correct steering wheel with absolutely no success, so wondered if someone on here might have one. I don't particularly care about the condition of the wood; even completely missing is OK as long as the hub and spokes are in good shape. I'm sure I'll be asking a bunch more questions over the winter as I slowly get a chance to work on it. Thanks, Keith