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dibarlaw last won the day on March 6 2016

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About dibarlaw

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  • Birthday 09/02/1955

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    Have loved the old car hobby for over 40 years and still trying to become involved.

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    John: Here is what the thimble looks like installed and the floor board in place.
  2. Wanted a set of top sockets /bows for my 1925-25 Buick Standard touring. Larry DiBarry Chambersburg PA. 717-263-3804
  3. first drive this year

    Leif: I will also email the photos to you as I believe this is beyond the scope of the original post. I have a WEED bumper on my Master. There were probably 50 accessory bumper manufactures at the time with each one having a different mounting design.
  4. '38 Special gas mileage

    Another factor on the fuel mileage if you consider evaporation. Unless you are driving the car regularly and keep the tank pretty full there is more evaporation with modern fuel. Modern closed systems avoid evaporative losses. I was surprised that when I put 5 gallons in a dry tank of my 1925 Buick in December. I tried to start it and work on the engine a bit. At most it ran for only about 10 minutes, twice, before I removed the carb to rebuild. I did not get back to it until the end of January. The tank had about a 1/2 gallon left when I drained it to do other work. I do the same procedure as yours with my 1937-41 as I had gone through the sending unit before installing. All seemed to work well until our trip to South Bend in 2013. Somewhere in northern Ohio it seemed that we were going a lot farther than normal and the tank gage still showed 1/4 full. When we found a gas station I put in 17 Gallons. Gage still showed 1/4 full! I still have not gotten around to pulling the tank to get at the sending unit. Doing mileage/fill calculations our trip from South Bend average was 16 MPG! Our trip to Brookfield at best was 14 MPG. Keeping speed below 55 mph. Then when the #8 cylinder was shut down by a hammered closed plug gap (I still need to investigate this as that cylinder is now down to 60#) more like 10 MPG. I did change out the plug for the final 135 mile leg of the trip home.

    I just received my 2 thimbles from Gregg Lange who has reproduced some Buick items. Marvel carb floats, Robe rails, Foot rest ends and such. They came out great! I bought 2 for my Master and Standard touring cars. These are specified for just about all open Buicks from 1912-1925. The originals were die cast and most crumbled away over the years. Gregg had them made in aluminum and brass. This is what I did to polish them up before I installed the one in the Master since there was still the hole in the board with a remnant of the original. I was able to chuck it up carefully in a 4 jaw chuck on my 10" South Bend lathe. Started with some filing, then #100 emery cloth, #240 down to # 600 W/D abrasive and some WD40. Final polish with some Simichrome polish. This took about a half hour. I cut out the linoleum covering the hole and had to use a 1/2 round file a bit to match the contour of the new part. I was able to use the original screw hole! Thank you Gregg for your service to the hobby!
  6. first drive this year

    Leif: I can get photos of the brackets on my Master if you like.
  7. Mid 20's timing cover oil leaks

    Hugh: I would go by what the others have said. There was no evidence of leakage on my crank. My leakage was at the pulley. I did get a lip seal for it (I believe you were part of the posts on how we changed these out) but I still kept some of the felt inside the new lip seal case for insurance. I would have to search for the NAPA seal #. I had to turn a few thousands off of the case to press fit into the cover bore. No leaks since I installed it. Of course all was for naught since all is coming apart for the engine work. I will have to see who originally posted these photos. These photos are when I changed mine. I was able to do it with out removing the radiator or timing cover. Fitting felt into lip seal case. Cleaned bore. Still had to clean threads. New Seal with assortment of collars/washers to draw the seal into the bore. Drawing in with a touch of sealer on the outside of the seal. Final fit to below the surface.
  8. straight eight gaskets

    I will take them. p m sent. Larry
  9. first drive this year

    iThis car had a great feature article in the Bugle several years ago. September 2010 " Buicks of 1925".
  10. first drive this year

    Looks like you are experiencing "BUICK BLISS"! To me your McLaughlin is the most beautiful 1925 Buick there is. Both of my 25s may be down till sometime in the spring. I hate not driving my Buicks.
  11. 1926 Buick unrestored roadster amarillo TX craigslist

    Yes I agree with Imperial62 about a rare car. It looks to be a model 54 Sport Roadster if the plated windshield frame and cowl lights are to be trusted for ID. But the way the body sags and the plywood seen through the "hole" of the golf door opening, there may not be any useable wood left. Photos of a friends one family owned, original 1927-54.
  12. Gary: I may hazard a guess as my car is 2 blocks away. On the drivers side would be the routing of the antenna cable from the radio to the running boards. The cable then routs under the body to the opposite side. Check the radio information I posted and I think it may show this. Larry
  13. Spark plug for 25 master series

    The Motorcraft 3076 is available through most auto parts stores. That is what I am running in both the 1925 Standard and Master. I use a 90 degree boot on them and they fit under the cover. Larry
  14. Spark plug for 25 master series

    They are compatible except they are too tall to fit under the spark plug cover. The Champion "6" was what originally was specified with a longer reach than the W18. The original equipment AC Titan of the period has the same long reach with a 7/8:" Hex. The only other 7/8 " Thread plug available now is a Motorcraft 3076. The longer reach 3077 has been discontinued.
  15. Gary : My 37 had no "window sweeps" just small rubber blocks on both the door and garnish moldings to reduce shock when the door is closed. Of course after the flocking of the channel wore away and the rubber turned to concrete. Result, broken window. I used the Fisher Body manual as a guide and was successful. When I replaced my channels and glass in the left rear door it did take a good deal of finessing to get smooth bends at the corners. The channels on mine did not go very far down until there was a rubber (now concrete) channel with a flocked surface. This had to be broken out. The new channel fits right into these body channels. It does make for a tricky threading job down through the door. I have not attempted my front windows as that would require the vent window glass, gaskets and then frame to be re chromed. With my 1925 Standard engine getting rebuilt. The 1925 master engine in a questionable state and the low # 8 cylinder in my 1937, monies are needed elsewhere.