R.White

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R.White last won the day on August 4 2015

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About R.White

  • Rank
    '26 Touring
  • Birthday 11/14/1954

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Derby, England.

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  • Biography
    I own a 1926 DB special touring, and a 1930 Austin 7 Swallow saloon Seeking a pre 1905 veteran car to restore.

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  1. Thanks for that, Ron. I would have thought the flexing would occur along the length of the chassis side rails and cross member rather than at the joins which would want to be as tight as you can get them - so that was why I would have probably have elected for plug welds rather than rivets or bolts which are both prone to work loose. I am biased of course because my Dad was a professional welder and it's likely that is what he would have done. You can't beat a nice gas weld but it takes years of experience to get it to that standard. Having said that, I wouldn't have minded if someone had replaced the rivets in my front cross member with bolts - it would have been nice to remove it when getting the engine out !
  2. Hi Ron. Why would you use rivets to do that? Is it for originality?
  3. I hope you guys don't mind me asking but what is wrong with welding the chassis? A neat, deep weld would be far more satisfactory I would have thought.
  4. As an MG enthusiast, I couldn't help noticing an MGA being restored in the background. Love those cars! Ray.
  5. "26 engine sorted.

    Thanks Guys. The crankshaft is still suspect. I tried again to close up the bearing clearance but as before I found it binding at less than 0.003". It must be slightly bent but fortunately there is no serious vibration. Having ground the shims slightly on one face to make the adjustment I then had to tin them and sand down to get back to where I started! All good fun! I took the car out today. She starts on the button and ticks over nice and even. I will need to keep my speeds down as the new pistons need to bed in but the car just wants to go. The new clutch plates are working fine now and the gear change is an absolute joy compared with how it was. I put the difficulty with gear changes down to a siezed pilot bearing in the flywheel. This bearing seems strangely not to have any means of lubrication! I have replaced it with a sealed one (with extra grease inside!). I have also smoothed off the ridges that had worn into the driving pins on the flywheel and lightly greased them. I have also built up and ground to size the worn pedal shaft which makes a big difference to how the car feels to drive. I took the opportunity to remove much of the wear in the brake rod linkage. Some of the parts were badly worn. The brakes now work as they should. Ray.
  6. "26 engine sorted.

    My engine is now running sweetly. No more nasty knocks. It will never be as quiet as a Rolls Royce but it is perfectly acceptable now. I have eliminated all the excessive crankshaft play and taken up the big end clearances as much as I safely can and stopped the side ways sloppiness. At last here is no more knocking!!! MY sincere thanks to all you guys with your many bits of help and advise. I can now enjoy driving my Dodge Brothers tourer ...and I intend to.! Ray.
  7. Help with a 1925 Trans Rebuild

    . You could say I'm on the horns of a dilemma
  8. Help with a 1925 Trans Rebuild

    I would say that following the rebuild my trans should be good; the gears are not worn too much and the bearings are all new. I even replaced the first sliding gear which takes all the input thrust and suffers from wearing on the shaft but despite this, it is still noisy. I have tried using heavy gear oil but it still makes a dreadful racket. In fact it sounds like a cow calving. Ray
  9. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Believe me the pleasure has been all ours. Your determination to succeed when others would have walked away is an inspiration. The end is in sight so you simply have to finish it now. Ray
  10. Help with a 1925 Trans Rebuild

    Too late now but I fitted sealed bearings to mine. I left the inner seals off so they could be assured of adequate lube from trans oil. The lay cluster on mine could be shifted to and fro and when I turned the box over a thrust washer fell out on the bench! Ray.
  11. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I fully understand your feelings of frustration when something like this happens. You think the car is fighting you all the way, don't you?. All I can say is keep your chin up and push on. It will all be back together before you know it and this episode will just fade into history. Thank goodness for this forum. I have said it before but it really is an invaluable resource if you are restoring an old car. I know the special toilet fixing bolts that you needed (with the flat oval heads) and goodness knows how much it would cost to get them specially made. Just $5 or so from the local store and half the problem is solved. Looking on the bright side, all the work so far has been very impressive. Ray.
  12. "26 crankshaft end float

    I can't remember trying to listen to the tapping noise while engaging/disengaging the clutch. Perhaps I should have done Once you start looking for trouble you can be sure to find some. I have measured the end float and instead of 0.005", it comes to a generous 0.012" . When I lever the crank it makes a thump rather than a knock or tap so I can't imagine it is the mystery noise somehow, Ray.
  13. "26 crankshaft end float

    I do hope so! I can lever the crank and it makes a big knock! Unfortunately, the knock I am trying to eliminate is more of a tap like I get with the lateral big end slap. Whatever the result, I should have a quieter engine...I hope!
  14. "26 crankshaft end float

    Thanks for that Bob.
  15. "26 crankshaft end float

    Thanks for that Bob. I have been thinking along those lines as I have been going through the process of tinning the outer edge of the big end shells to take up the excessive clearance. Never having done this before, it was at first quite nerve wracking but with a little practice using my new 100W soldering iron it becomes second nature. I have learned that you need to keep away from the curve at the side of the shell as this can interfere with the radius of the crank pin so best to tin just the outer edge (about 1/8th inch) and fettle it flat on some fine sand paper until a clearance of 0.010" can be obtained. I will try to do a similar thing with the centre main cap shell; although I guess in an ideal world it would be better to tackle the upper shells because there is a risk of loading the cap bolts if I just do the bottom shells. This reminds me of a similar situation with the Rover V8 where in some cases only the upper shells take the thrust. Unfortunately, the Dodge engine would probably need to come out again to do the upper shells and I really can't face that again! Ray.