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R.White last won the day on August 4 2015

R.White had the most liked content!

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About R.White

  • Rank
    '26 Touring
  • Birthday 11/14/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Derby, England.


  • Biography
    I own a 1926 DB special touring, and a 1930 Austin 7 Swallow saloon Seeking a pre 1905 veteran car to restore.

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  1. I added a left side tail and brake light to my '26 touring. The car was imported from Australia and had just the right side tail light. I have (subsequently) added separate indicators as incorporating them into the brake light circuit may be illegal here, and further, I think motorists today are looking for amber turn signals. A red flashing brake light might just confuse the average driver.
  2. Advancing years necessitates standing up more slowly. There can be very few other occasions when one can consider it an advantage.
  3. Yes Mike. They are quite large and heavy and made from 1/4" plate glass. They are nice to look at but I often think how dangerous they could be. The bevelled edge can also be a risk when working around the car because it is possible to catch your head when getting up if you forget they overhang...guess how I found that out? Ray.
  4. I can't help with that but I noticed this gadget on Ebay. It should be easier on the hands than the usual manual method. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oscillating-Valve-Lapping-Tool-MAKES-JOB-SO-EASY-/180976014021?hash=item2a2302d2c5:m:maxVDQJvCpEFR82Je7bRv8w
  5. Hi Pete. Thanks for the compliment. The photo is old so that part of the car looks better now but I would like one day to find a correct DB windscreen but the cost means it is down the list of priorities at the moment. I had not heard of NOVUS plastic polish so I looked it up. Seems like a good product. Ray.
  6. My wind wings look great, work well, but are actually quite dangerous. The bevelled glass is quite thick but I don't think it's laminated or toughened. The clamps connect to the windscreen uprights but are not as neat as those on Pete's car.
  7. Thank you Spinneyhill. I hadn't thought of that! I thought 200 c was more the figure. My Dad used to say that Nylock nuts were good for 250 deg. so were O.K. inside an engine which seldom exceeded 200. Thinking about it, our old engines do not have a pressurised coolant system so must run at under 100deg if they are not to boil.
  8. First thing is you have not "screwed up". If the galvanised finish on your car is anything like mine it is so abraded it has lost all the nice "flake" texture and frankly looks dreadful. I have a mind to paint mine with a paint that can go somewhere towards replicating the original finish but I am well aware that this is only a second best option. Your flywheel cover would probably have been galvanised to match the pan but mine is a single casting that had been painted block colour. I don't know what mine would have been originally but it looks good green engine colour. The engine on my car had been painted dark blue along with other parts including the pedals but I doubt that would have been original even though little is known about export models. I have decided to try and replicate the original colour which I can best describe as "sage green". The problem is finding an engine paint (high temp) the right shade. I believe Myers and Romar do sell engine paint but I haven't seen any so I can't comment. I have gone with duck egg mixed with a little lime green and a touch of black. Originally the bolt on distributor housing would have been engine colour but the water pump on some earlier cars is black. As my water pump casting is part of the distributor housing (unique to the coil ignition cars I think) and there are traces of green paint surviving, I have gone with the sage green colour for it. Essentially, it is your car and you should finish it as you think fit... and feel good about it! Ray.
  9. I have just taken off the inner seal of the front bearing. Ron, I see what you mean. There is not much in the way of grease in there. Ray.
  10. We learn something new every day. That is new to me and makes perfect sense. I now have to decide whether to strip down my newly refurbished 'box that is waiting to be fitted... Ron, our prayers have been answered; rain. We need it to rain a lot more and with luck it will. Cheers, Ray.
  11. From what you describe I doubt it is a problem with the gearbox bearings. If the noise only occurred when you depressed the clutch I would have said it was the throwout bearing but as it goes away when you depress the clutch I would think it could be the flywheel pilot bearing. To check this, remove the inspection cover and see if the driven clutch discs come to a halt when you depress the clutch pedal. If the discs keep rotating, the pilot bearing in the flywheel could be seizing or catching. This is not always the case however as the pins in the flywheel and the clutch can wear grooves in them that can cause the clutch plates to stick when they should rotate freely. You might try listening to the bell housing (on the engine side) to see if the noise is more noticeable from there. Most gearbox noise comes from the top front sliding gear. This gear takes all the input thrust and can develop a "wobble". Try listening with the lever and lid removed. I would stop the engine and smother the gear/shaft with bearing grease then start up again and see if the noise is still there. Have you replaced the counter shaft bushes? Perhaps new bearings on the main shaft have put the countershaft cluster under more load? I assume you have anti rattle springs on the clutch? Ray.
  12. Does the noise go away when you depress the clutch? Does it sounds like a dry bearing? I am wondering if the noise is coming from the pilot bearing in the flywheel. I replaced mine with a sealed bearing because there seems to be no way of lubricating it. Ray.
  13. Whoah!!!! 150 Ft Lbs? All you will achieve is a stripped thread. 75 is plenty! It's a 90 year old car... by which I mean metallurgy has come a long way since then. Remember, Garages is the 1920's would not likely have a torque wrench. Also, we probably don't know the values for the steel. Ray.
  14. One of the factors that determines the torque in reality is not so much the figures given but the condition of the threads. Another, probably more importantly, is that there is a huge difference depending on whether the threads are lubricated or dry.
  15. You may well be right. I have not needed to mess about with mine as they are a snug fit and as they have shims between them I can't see how they can move anyway. I just remember reading about it some time back.