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R.White last won the day on August 4 2015

R.White had the most liked content!

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About R.White

  • Rank
    '26 Touring
  • Birthday 11/14/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Derby, England.


  • Biography
    I own a 1926 DB special touring, and a 1930 Austin 7 Swallow saloon Seeking a pre 1905 veteran car to restore.

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  1. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    Paul, seeing as Herm is with us I am going to leave it to him. He is the engine builder here. Ray.
  2. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    I totally agree, Herm. What I should have said is "run for the hills". Ray.
  3. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    MY mistake. It shouldn't matter if you want to swap over 3 bearing cranks regardless of 6 volt or 12 volt type engines if they are both 3 main blocks. I had forgotten that the "C" engine with 5 mains (like mine) didn't come into production until later in 1926. I have not actually done the swap that you intend so I can't say if there are any difficulties but I would have thought it would be possible, however, I don't know if the rod bearings are the same size or not. Regarding the bearings. If you need the crank reground I think you will have to get all bearings re white metalled and line bored.... Ouch! O.K., I know I obtained good clearances by adjusting the shims and lapping the bearings to fit my crankshaft but the crank was hardly worn so didn't need a regrind. Ray. PS. You mentioned a crack that needed welding. It may not actually be visible but for every crack you can see there will probably be another corresponding crack in parallel. I had a crack across a valve seat. I had it "Cold" stitched then machined. Another crack was frost damage in the water jacket and I repaired it myself using a professional epoxy by Belzona. All OK so far! Ray.
  4. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    The 3 bearing crank will not fit your engine. I would suggest if you need a replacement crank it might be better to source a complete other engine. The 5 bearing engine is a significant improvement over the 3 bearing unit. Your call I guess. Ray.
  5. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    That is right. I should have mentioned there is a risk of loosing the valve timing and with various different camshafts around these days you can't rely on the workshop manual settings. The crankshaft gear has no markings on it so you would be well advised to make your own so they align with those on the cam gear. Be very careful if it is a fibre gear. Ray.
  6. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    I can't remember if it has been covered before but with the top removed from the gearbox you can check for wear. Straight cut gears will of course always be noisy but the cause of excessive noise is usually found to be wear of the sliding gear surfaces and the main shaft. You may well find that the gears actually "wobble"on the shaft. The worst offender is likely to be the small gear nearest the front. As this takes all the input thrust it can be severely worn. If the teeth are badly pitted or even broken then it is a good candidate for replacement. I don't think new ones are available except for early cars but I was fortunate enough to find a good used one. I tried to build up the bearing surface of the gear/ shaft but without success so I imagine if you need to get these hard chromed it would be expensive. Even with new bearings (sealed) and a replacement gear my transmission is noisy in first and second - but top (which is direct) is quiet. Ray.
  7. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    Believe it or not, the throw out bearing on these clutches is supposed to move around... I thought the same as you and ordered one only to find it was no different. The throw out bearing is held in place by a large spring clip. Prise this off.. then the bearing unscrews. Ray.
  8. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    Yes, looking in through the opening there should be two square headed bolts. remove these and the supports will slide off either side and you can lift out the throw out bearing fork. For future reference; when replacing them be careful not to drop them into the bell housing... Don't ask me how I know this!!!🤪 Ray.
  9. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    Have you removed the two thin metal supports either side of the throw out bearing? The clutch pedal needs to come off and throwout bearing fork lifted out. I found it easier to leave the clutch on the flywheel. Note how the clutch plates wear grooves into the pins. If you are trying to pull the clutch with the trans the clutch plates might be snagging on the pins. Don't try to replace these by the way as the heat required to remove them can crack the flywheel. I smoothed out the grooves and applied a little grease. Note there appears to be no means of lubricating the pilot bearing in the flywheel. Mine was dry as a bone and caused clutch drag. I replaced it with a sealed bearing. ( It is often the case that sealed bearings are lacking sufficient grease. I would suggest you carefully prise off the cover and pack the bearing. The cover should snap back into place) Also renew the brass bushing in the end of the input shaft. The trick for removing this is to tap in a thread and screw in a bolt .Use a puller or slide hammer.
  10. R.White

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I honestly couldn't say. I would doubt you would benefit from the seal if there was a lock washer as well. Ray.
  11. R.White

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I am of course rather biased as my Father (who was an engineer) was deeply involved with the development of all manner of seals. Ray.
  12. R.White

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    George Dowty invented them in the 1930s in England but I am sure there are suppliers in the U.S.A. http://www.potterassoc.com/pdf/bonded_seal_information_and_sizing_chart.pdf Ray
  13. R.White

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I think just to be sure it doesn't leak again I would consider using a bonded seal washer on those Bolts. Your call of course. Ray.
  14. R.White

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    Yes, you do need to pull the rear axle back enough to drop the prop out of the torque tube (if you don't have an open prop) so you will have to drop the springs. You will probably have to take out the battery box as well. Also the exhaust and the brake rods. If you try to remove the engine from the gearbox in situ there is a risk that you will damage the clutch. This is because the front cross member will not allow the engine to come out straight. It will need to be tilted and an acute angle to clear it. The camshaft is located by a taper plug in the side of the block. On 2 unit 6 volt cars this plug is hidden behind the generator. Make up a simple puller. It may be tight but should just pull out. It would be a false economy (in my opinion) to only bore one cylinder. Get them all the same. When you replace the con rods make sure they are modified to take fully floating gudgeon pins and cir clip retainers. The original bolt clamping is probably the weakest design flaw in the engine and has been the cause of many failures. While you are getting the replacement crankshaft crack tested take the trouble to have the head and block crack tested too for peace of mind if nothing else. Ray.
  15. R.White

    Any idea what year

    I notice it's RHD. Interesting rear springs. It looks like a coach built body?