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R.White last won the day on August 4 2015

R.White had the most liked content!

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About R.White

  • Rank
    '26 Touring
  • Birthday 11/14/1954

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  • Location:
    Derby, England.


  • Biography
    I own a 1926 DB special touring, and a 1930 Austin 7 Swallow saloon Seeking a pre 1905 veteran car to restore.

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  1. '26 engine knock

    The knock disappears completely when I short out the spark plug. No, I haven't run the engine with just 3 plugs, I don't know how I would learn anything from that but I am prepared to try anything. As To the crank. I left the crank with the engineer who rebored the block for me. He didn't check it for straightness so it was only when reassembling the engine back in my garage that I found a problem. As I mentioned in another thread, I was unable to get closer than 0.003" clearance on the main bearings without it binding. This I assume points to a bent crank - but what do I know? I managed to improve things a bit by carefully lapping in the shells but i didn't want to remove too much white metal! The mains had been running with 0.005" clearance previously and had not shown symptoms of rumbling or vibration but now there is a noticeable increase in vibration. I don't know if this is down to that or just because the new pistons need bedding in. I am trying to visualise how this might cause a knock in one big end? I am also having to pacify my long suffering wife who hit the roof when I told her the engine might need to come out again and cost upwards of £1000! Ray.
  2. '26 engine knock

    Yes tony. I reduced the lateral clearance from 0.030" to the specified 0.10". The noise has remained the same regardless so I felt it probably wasn't coming from there after all. The other three rods are unchanged 0.025" - 0.030". If tinning had made a difference I would have done them too. Ray.
  3. '26 engine knock

    Yes. I will reposition the distributor and see if it changes anything. Thanks. Ray.
  4. '26 engine knock

    As it happens, I have been doing just that this afternoon. I did it before and found no wear which to be fair is what the engineer said. No matter what points across the journal I choose, I can find no difference. It measures 1.670" in all directions. Just to be sure I have lapped in the shells with a compound specially developed for white metal bearings called "time saver". This particular "yellow" compound does not contain any emery, ground glass, silicon carbide, aluminium oxide and will not charge into any metal surface or continue to cut so I feel happy that a near perfect bearing surface can safely result. I shall make sure there is no movement of the shells in the rod this time. The latest results are promising with what appears to be just 0.0005" taper. I hope to finish with an overall clearance of 0.001" after taking measurements from top as well as bottom of the stroke. We are, it seems, back where we started if the knock is not the big end. I keep wondering if it is somehow a serious pre ignition knock. Where I am flummoxed is that it is only on the one cylinder. Perhaps there is a fault with the distributor causing No.1 to spark early? I keep thinking about the non standard camshaft design that may have been fitted. This throws up issues with both valve timing and ignition timing. Firstly, is the ignition too far advanced? Could it be a completely different setup if the camshaft is non standard? I could experiment to see if the distributor is a tooth out for example. What if the valve timing is wrong for this camshaft? There were no timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears to assist so I had to set it up using the method described in the book of information. There are two methods depending on which camshaft is used. The after market ones fitted to a number of cars in Australia to prevent premature exhaust valve failure is a third and I have no information on that. Hi Tony. I went to considerable lengths to ensure that this rod is as straight as it can be. Interestingly, all the other rods have masses of lateral movement and they don't make a whisper. I am still not 100% sure where the knock is coming from. As I said once before it seems to be coming from the head but as you know sound travels. To say I am out of my depth is an understatement. Several old car guys listened to the engine at a show I went to last year and they were also puzzled. My Dad would have been able to sort it but I expect he is busy working on The Lord's car these days. Ray.
  5. '26 engine knock

    OMG Spinneyhill!. If only our Dodge Brother Robert B wasn't so far away... My engineer chap came highly recommended from other old car guys. Yes, he is a skilled machinist and what he does is good work but that doesn't make him a good mechanic, does it? Ray.
  6. '26 engine knock

    Today I confronted (politely) the engineer who worked on my engine. I told him how it was still making a knocking noise. He said he was sorry to learn that - but it would seem he is too busy to do anything about it for at least six months and then it would cost me the best part of $2000 (or the £ equivalent) to regrind the crank and re babbitt the bearings. There is about as much chance of this guy fixing my engine as a one legged man winning an ass kicking contest. Ray.
  7. '26 engine knock

    Hi Mike. I haven't had the crank reground so no new babbitt metal. I should have ignored the "professional" advice who said it was O.K. and had the crank reground with new babbitt metal poured. The way things are going I will have to get it done anyway. Ray.
  8. '26 engine knock

    I think this crank must have a slight bend in it because I found it impossible to fit the main bearings tighter than 0.003" without it binding. I thought I was doing the right thing in taking up the slack because it had been running with 0.005" clearance. Previously, the engine ran fine with no mains problems but since adjusting them there is a noticeable increase in vibration. It sometimes feels as if I am going backwards!
  9. '26 engine knock

    Hi Bob. On my engine the shells are trapped by the shims so cannot move around. They are dead flush with the bearing cap and are quite a tight fit so need to be prised out. There are also notches on the back which locate them. As I see it, the shells cannot move in the rod when the bearings are bolted up. I will look at it again, though, because thinking about it that might just be what is causing the knock if all the other bearings are quiet at 0.002". Ray.
  10. '26 engine knock

    Go figure indeed. I was always under the impression that engines that relied on splash feed should have sufficient clearance for the oil to just flow in and out under gravity and that the introduction of pressure fed systems meant that closer tolerances could be achieved safely. There is a certain logic to it and that the reason we can go for closer tolerances now is that if synthetic oil is used it is not just better but thinner than the old straight oils. I am always prepared to accept that I may have got it wrong but none of the other big end bearings are tighter than 0.002"... and they don't knock. Why just this one? Ray. Bloo. The main bearings have been a nightmare. In a previous post I related how I couldn't get them closer than 0.003" without binding. As I say, I think this crankshaft has suffered trauma at some time. That it runs at all is probably something of a miracle. Ray.
  11. '26 engine knock

    I only wondered if the distributor could be a whole tooth out? Yeah, I'm clutching at straws! I checked the con rods for straightness when I had them out. The engineer says he also checked. They all look central to the wrist pins when I look up at them! I was surprised to read that the Chevy 4 could knock at 0.0015" big end clearance. I have a theory that No.1 cylinder suffered a serious trauma sometime in the past and this noise may be related to that time, I wonder if the crank pin has been knocked about enough to cause the knock. During the rebore they found a small piece of piston ring embedded in the cylinder wall! I couldn't feel anything but an indentation - which I believed the rings were just passing over. It is of little consolation to be proved right. It looks like I made a mistake by adjusting the bearing with the piston at the bottom rather than the top. I will have another go at it.
  12. '26 engine knock

    I haven't read those threads yet but I thank you for them. Yes, the 4 cylinder Dodge Brothers engine is splash fed. I made sure the bearing cap was on the right way so that the oil gets scooped up. I too have always used plastigauge and never had reason to doubt it - but you are right in looking for an out of round journal. I am surprised that 0.0015 is seen as a big clearance given that it is not pressure fed. I can of course take up the bearing clearance a bit more and see if that cures the knock. It might be worth mentioning that the other bearings are adjusted the same and remain quiet. If there is a slight out of round wear pattern on the journal, how much is considered to be too much? As to lateral movement; this is a problem that I first noticed on this engine and which I was convinced was causing the knock because there was a large amount of free play. I took up the clearance on this bearing cap by tinning the edges with soft solder. The melting point of solder is slightly below that of the babbitt metal and given there is not much loading in that area I considered it safe. I was frustrated that my efforts had come to nothing. For the record, I have eliminated the possibility of a plug fouling a valve by fitting shorter reach plugs. I have also eliminated the possibility of wear between the valve spring retainer and pin by renewing everything. The camshaft looks like a replacement considering the negligible wear. I wondered if I should be setting the timing as per standard if an improved camshaft has been fitted? I read somewhere that a different cam profile was fitted to some Australian cars (which this is). Perhaps I should play around with the timing to see if it helps...or am I just clutching at straws? Ray.
  13. '26 engine knock

    The gudgeon pins that came with the new pistons are a perfect fit to the little end of the rods. The bushing in the rod shows no signs of wear. The set up is of the modern fully floating type with cir clip retaining clips. The engineer was also happy with the fit.
  14. '26 engine knock

    Not so much a new topic but a return to something that I thought was sorted but most definitely is not. . Avid 4 cylinder car readers will recall that I was experiencing a distinct tapping sound coming from my engine. This regular knock was coming from No.1 cylinder on the firing stroke. Investigation revealed historic damage to the bore which also turned out to be a cracked so I had a liner fitted. The engine was treated to a rebore and new + 0.040" pistons installed. I also replaced the valves guides and springs at the same time. Unfortunately, despite assurances from the engine repair guy that the noise would have been from a piston ring hitting the damaged bore, on restarting the reassembled engine the noise is still there! The tapping sound is most noticeable at tick over but if I short out the sparking plug on No.1 cylinder, it disappears. I have checked the connecting rod big end bearings and the white metal looks to be in good condition and has an even clearance (with Plastigauge) of 0.0015") which I would have thought would be correct. I guess there is a solution to the problem but I am not sure what to do now. Ray.
  15. 4 cylinder engine paint

    On my sump, although there is no rust at all, the galvanised surface seems to have come away in patches so it has a slightly blotchy look. This is not particularly attractive but it is what remains of the original finish. I have gone over it gently with some wire wool to clean it and sealed the surface with wax polish. I don't spend all day looking at the thing so it will probably stay the way it is. Ray.