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Buicknutty last won the day on August 27

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About Buicknutty

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  • Birthday 10/19/1953
  1. Avanti R2, 1963, refresh

    Love those donkeys, John! Are they to keep the Alpacas in place, or will it be other way around? Any names picked out yet? Keith
  2. Considering buying a Reatta

    Well, an issue has come up during certification, the body structure and everything is still sound, though some paint loss from underneath as shown in the pictures, and it passed the e-test with flying colours too too, BUT the rear crossmember/axle has rust in the rust where the springs sit. Now I have a gentleman's agreement with the seller, that I could back out, and get my deposit back, so I'm not necessarily stuck with the car, if I don't want to be. There is one in a junkyard in the area, but I don't know the condition of it, or the pedigree of the car. If its' been a northern car all of it's life, it likely isn't in any better shape than the one in the car. It could even be worse. My welding skills are good, you should of seen my '41 Roadmaster when I started on it, but right now I'm in the process of moving from one house to another, and doing some work on the new place as well. So I have no time or energy left over to get into the car till much later next year. Anyway, that's were it sits for now. We're trying to come up with a workable solution to this. I'd still like it, but I want to be able to drive it next spring, not the one after! Keith
  3. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    The work is looking great, both the body and engine. You mentioned about the decision to buy a project instead of a finished car. With the cost of restoration, it tends to make more sense from a financial point to buy the finished car, but when you are highly involved with the restoration of your own car, you know how it is done, instead of having to find out the hard way. When I rebuilt the engine in my '41 Roadmaster a few years ago, I asked the machinist, a local guy with much experience building vintage and vintage high performance engines about hardened valve seats. His answer was that he would see what the hardness of the casting was, as some have quite hard castings and don't require the hardened seats. His verdict was that the material in my cylinder head was quite hard and therefore didn't need to be fitted with seats. Opinions vary, of course, but it's highly unlikely that there can be any harm done by having the hard seats put in. Keith
  4. parting out 2 68 Electra convertibles

    Any more info about these cars? I am interested in the doors, radios, possibly a few other parts. Please PM me with prices and the location of the cars. Thank you. Keith
  5. Considering buying a Reatta

    Well guys, I decided to buy it! It goes for the certification and e test tomorrow morning, and hopefully the shop can get everything done quickly, and that no major issues show up during the process. It started and drove well, the trans shifted properly, cold and hot. I had it up to 75 mph on the highway, and it was smooth except for what feels like a bit of wheel balance about 60, then was gone by 70, and it settled in at an effortless cruise at the higher speed. A certain amount of wind and road noise from the top, particularly from the rear area. The seals look to be in decent shape as well. The interior shows wear and use, but no rip tears, or split seams, but the upper part of the steering wheel is discoloured and has a rough feel to it. It was a cool day, and after a few minutes of running, the heater came on and kept us warm. The other day that I saw it, the weather was warmer, the A/C came on right away and blew nice and cold. Everything else seemed to work. There's a bit of rust on the underside, but much more paint than rust. It also comes with all the shop manuals and original factory documents. The car was imported into Canada in 2014, so it hasn't been here that long, and before that it was a Florida car. I posted a picture of the worst of the two topside rust spots, and it is pretty small. The underside spots don't seem to go through anywhere, but I did not have the ability to put it an a hoist and look any closer. I'm hoping to get the license transferred this week, and then out to my storage garage for the winter. We are having what I sometimes call "bonus weather", as there has not been any significant snowfall in our area yet, so therefore minimal salt, and we've had rain so it has all been washed away. Hopefully the weather will hold till I can get it safely put away till spring. Keith
  6. 1958 Caballero

    It is looking beautiful! Keith
  7. parting out 2 68 Electra convertibles

    How about doors, and seat belts? What are the quarter panels like? Where are you, or the cars located? Thanks. Keith
  8. Considering buying a Reatta

    Thanks everyone for your opinions. Right now I am planning to look at and drive the car on Sat., today was wet and cold, but no snow, yet. When he first showed me the car on a warm Sept day., the A/C came on right away and blew nice and cold, it started and ran well, but I did not go any further at the time. It also has all of the factory paperwork to go with it as well. The current owner does drive the car, though he is the kind of guy that owns a car for a while, then sells it and buys another. He says he drives it from time to time and it runs well, but it does have a bit of cowl shake, which I understand is common in these. On the other hand, I have the '56 Roadmaster that I bought in 1976, and driven every summer since then, I've added about 105,000 miles to it so far. Barney, I was wondering about doing just that, but I kind of get attached to cars, I've found that buying them can be the easy part! Next year I'm moving to a much larger rural property, so then I would have the potential to have a parts car. Right now with the city house, I can't possibility entertain that option. I'll let everyone know how it goes in a couple of days Keith
  9. Considering buying a Reatta

    Thanks for the extra info, esp. the item about the under seat wiring, except I don't want a Honda to drive! Keith
  10. Considering buying a Reatta

    Two things, its' close to home, and the price is fair. Thanks for the info. I had heard that the weatherstrip is not made as well. What do you mean about "Spilkeces"? The other thing about this car being close to home, and for sale by a fellow local club member, is that I can kind of "try it out", a bit more comfortably, as I have no idea if I will like it. Being a Buick, I trust that it will be a comfortable and nice car to drive, but it is smallish, compared to cars like my '69 Electra. If the underneath looks very rusty, I will definitely pass on it. Though I don't mind doing some work on it, I want a car to drive, not another project! Thanks. Keith
  11. Considering buying a Reatta

    Hi Folks, I'm thinking of buying a 1990 Reatta convertible, white with red interior. I have many posts on other parts of the Buick section, and am an experienced car guy in general, but don't know too much about these cars. This is a US car, not sure when it was brought into Canada, but it was a few years ago for sure. It has 160,000 miles on it, and looks good, but not perfect. I'm not looking for a top car, as I want to drive it quite a bit. That is one of the things I have to decide, as I've never driven one, or even ridden in one, so I have to see how I like it. The paint appears to be original, with a small rust hole about the size of the quarter on each side right, at the bottom right in front of the rear wheels. I am aware of some of the typical Reatta issues, and from past experience, the transmissions usually need work sometime around this mileage, but what are some of the other issues to check into? I was just reading about issues with engine cradle, can anyone give me more info about this? I will have a look underneath the car to check for other areas of rust, is there anywhere in particular to check? About the colour, my wife highly dislikes white cars, to put it mildly, so a paint job to a different colour, but within the Reatta colour pallet would be in its future if it were to make it to my garage. Thanks. Keith
  12. 41 century, not mine

    I've used this expression before, but it warrants saying again. If you want it "nice", and that being such a subjective term, but you know what I mean, you have to do a car like this "For love, not money". Keith
  13. !956 Front disc brakes

    Thanks for the info, Bernie. I'll check them out. Keith
  14. 1947-1965 Buick parts

    Where are you and/or the cars located and are there any with A/C? Thanks. Keith
  15. !956 Front disc brakes

    If you are still reading this thread, here's some info from my experience. I have a '56 Roadmaster that I have driven extensively over the last 40 years. FIY, the large series cars have slightly wider front drums, so you have a bit more surface area for friction. About 3 years I replaced all of the linings with new ones, new manufacture, that is. It stopped terrible, even though everything was done properly, and adjusted as they should be. Most modern replacements have linings that are too hard, and don't develop the friction required to stop well. If you do an internet search for Kevlar linings you will find other choices. These are supposed to work much better, even better than the old OEM type. Which brings me to the last point, if one can find a set of NOS/OEM linings, these will work quite well. This winter I'm planning to order the Kevlar linings for install on my '56. I have a '41 Roadmaster, with narrower drums, no power assist, and it stops way better than the '56 will, but I was able to get the old OEM type of linings for it. Hope this helps. Keith