deburt65

Studeq and Keninman......done both your suggestions....believe my problem may be in the float and main jet area.

Spinneyhill.........I think it is the carb because it will fire when gas is shot into the intake...quits when it burns the provide fuel.

Oops.....it is a Marvel Schebler. TSX945sl. I am guessing that the original Stromberg carb was not repairable and this one was a fair substitute. And easier to find. It was working just fine before it started giving me trouble.

Having a problem starting my 1928 Studebaker Dictator. Car will start if gas is shot into air intake....but quits shortly thereafter. Took carb off and took apart to see if a jet was plugged. Cleaned the best I could. Did not solve my problem. Rebuilt the fuel pump two years ago. Installed a inline fuel pump for priming purpose. Believe the carb is receiving fuel. Have had the car for about 6 years and it has always been a good starting car....once primed after sitting over winter months. Would be grateful for any insight/suggestions. Thank you..... the carburetor is a Markel TSX945SL...........is this the original carb Studebaker installed?

For what it is worth....Inhave a 1928 Dictator....and had the same problem of grinding gears when learning to drive my 85 year old car......learned to shift at lower speeds solved my problem for the most part.....found it starts out in 2nd or 3rd gear too.....my manual suggests one should be in 3rd gear at 10 mph.......no need to down shift most of the time as you can take most turns at 5-10 mph anyway......I'm 67 so have driven many manuals over my days....they are much different than my dictator. I do double clutch without thinking about it, and just slide into the next gear. It one's take practice to down shift without any noise.....hope this helps ...

Can anyone tell me if the original running boards on my 1928 Dictator were just Oak finished boards? Recently saw a 1929 Dictator coupe fully restored which had oak running boards.....stained and natural.....no rubber/vinyl material as a cover.......Mine need to be restored and want them to be original.....thanks for any response

I have a 1928 Studebaker dictator that needs a core to the speedometer. The housing seems to be just fine, but it had no core when I bought the car. The speedometer is a Stewart-Warner, and the housing is 69 inches long... it has been suggested that I can use a universal kit, but most kits do not come with the piece that is needed for the transmission end. It has a slot which receives a flange on the core....Has anyone repaired your model A or Studebaker, or a car with the Stewart-Warner speedometer???? Thanks for anyone who will share their experience or advice....

Studeboy.......I usually fill my radiator up to within 1 inch from the top, so maybe I have over filled it, thus the foaming. However, it was lower than that the last time I checked it, and there was a fair amount of foam. I guess, as long as it doesn't over heat, I should be ok....I hope.....but, I will still be asking anyone who owns these older cars and has more experience than I have.....but thanks for sharing.....

Studeboy....This is true about the pump running off the accessory shaft....but if it has a leak, could it be the source of bubbles/foam in the radiator??? I have had a small leak on the shaft, big nut area, but not a serious leak so haven't been too concerned....enough to address it....

I have a 1928 Dictator and have been checking all fluids regularly....and have noticed when checking the radiator level, it has foam at the top. Is this normal or do I have a problem of sorts?? Thanks for any insights you may share!!!!!!

I'm not a pro here, but it is my understanding that it does not matter which way you go with hooking up the battery....pos or neg. The battery should charge irregardless which way it is hooked up, as current will follow the "open" door, so to speak. In other words, the battery will send current either way, if hooked up pos or hooked up neg. Now, with that said, I have listened to others share that it does matter when it comes to the coil....one indicated that you get twice to volts out of your coil if you have a pos ground verses a neg ground. You may have a drain on your system if the battery keeps going dead, but I don't think it has anything to do with the way the battery is hooked up. This question is a common question among antique car owners just getting started, or among older tractor owners. Good luck...(older cars were pos grounded)

I have the housing for my Dictator, but the core is missing. Does anyone know if I can use a universal kit to make the core, or will I have to have a specialty shop make one up??? The end going into the head appears to be just a square while the end going into the transmission will need a wing, or flat piece on the end. Any help will be appreciated.

I have a 1928 Dictator....and was wondered if it is normal for the amp meter to jump from positive readings to a negative reading? The needle doesn't seem to stay still but jumps around a lot, even on the positive reading side. It shows 10-15 amps output, and when dropped into the negative side, is reading less than 5 amps. Do I have a problem or is this normal? The battery seems to be maintaining a good charge. Thanks for any insights.

I have a 28 Dictator and mine has three levers on the steering column, one for the lights, one for the Advance, and the other says Close. Would like to know what the Close level actually does. The Advance lever advances the spark on the distributor by turning it. But have not known about the Close lever. Thanks for any information anyone may share.

Thank you Frank29u------I'm not the choir......and appreciate your response......but you lost me. Your explanation sounds like you had the spokes and hub all apart in the restoration process. I am not restoring my wheels, yet, but trying to "balance" them to run true..without any wobble. I use the word "balance" only to mean having the wheel and rim/tire connection to make the wheel run smoothly at speeds higher than 25-35. I have an idea that when the tires were changed at some point, they just put the rims and wheels together without much effort to make them run smoothly. I don't think any car should shake-raddle-and roll just because they have wood spoke wheels. I could be wrong, but don't think so at this moment. What did you mean when you asked if they were "seated" properly. Remember I have never had my wheels apart from the tire/rims.... What I am looking for is being able to lift the back or front tire off the floor ...spin it and have it rotate without much if any variance. Thanks for any further imput.