Chasander

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About Chasander

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/13/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Michigan

Converted

  • Biography
    1966 Skylark GS original owner
    1963 Riviera
  1. 63 Riviera Questions

    My story similar to yours, car had been setting in a garage for many years. After changing oil (squirt oil in Cyl.) I put new gas in(wished i'd drain the tank but didn't) It turned over just fine but would not fire, discovered points corroded, changed them and it fired just fine. It sounded terrible, put Marvel oil in crank case and it slowly started sounding better(maybe took a week). I was worried about 50 yr old brakes, fluid in Master cylinder was like jelly, I ordered new brake lines(inline tube), MC, Slave cylinders, hardware, and sent brake booster to Booster Dewey for rebuild. The front to rear brake line at the rear tee was completely rusted. Changing the lines is not to terrible but trying to start some of the tubing nuts can be a pain. Getting the car on the road was great, but soon discovered a multitude of leaks, Transmission, engine, power steering pump and gear. Transmission was the worse so that was first. Try to do all work myself, ROA and in particular Jim Cannon and his CD's are great resources.
  2. I also saw this same setup. The guy had all 4 pc's in awesome condition for $600.00, said he had removed them from a 64 Riviera. I have the guys phone number maybe I can get him to send Pics. He was a little bit defensive.
  3. Steering gear and horn

    Anyone Know of a source for the correct rag joint?
  4. I recently changed out my leaking steering gear box for one from Lares. After completing I noticed my horns no longer worked. The lares unit came with a new rag joint, the original had a wire connecting the two sides of the joint. The lares joint does not. I put a jumper wire across the joint and the horns work. Should I have somehow rigged up a wire across this joint or is there another route for grounding the horns? What am I missing here?
  5. The insulators that line the lower support brackets for the radiator look like they are available from CARS for $8.50 ea (RI614-4). They are also listed at Steele Rubber (70-0963-31) for $21.00 ea. Anyone have a thought why steele rubber would be that much more expensive? Are they better or different in some way. Also will these same insulators work for the upper support? Thanks for any insight
  6. Undid the crimps on both of the diaphragms. The bottom membrane is torn and I think I could replace. The top diaphragm looks OK but there is a grommet/seal at the bottom hole that is shot. looks like some sort of a special seal. I will order the diaphragm from Old Air Products.
  7. The one you linked to at old air products looks different. Does it perform the same function?
  8. KongaMan I have that dual diaphragm removed from the air box on my 63. Of course I cannot find a replacement. I never thought I could repair this one.Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  9. When you send it to Booster Duey, don't let him talk you into gold clad. He told me gold clad was correct for a 63. I found out later that it wasn't.
  10. Bill Are you coming to the BttB event in Flint again this Year? If so bring the original alternator. We have a very good rebuilder near by. It will look like new when done. Mine only needed bearings and was $65.00
  11. Thanks. Just trying to get feel for $ on these
  12. What's the going price for a "nice" set of cast aluminum wheel covers. Also are they a pain in the butt to take care of?