Beemon

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Beemon last won the day on June 27

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About Beemon

  • Rank
    Unorthodox Restorer
  • Birthday 12/19/1991

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, WA
  • Interests:
    Cars, Women

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  • Biography
    I'm a 23 year old college student trying to piece together my grandfather's old beauty.

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  1. I'm assuming you have compound carburetion? I'm not familiar with the 41 Buicks by any means, but did you synchronize the carbs?
  2. MrEarl, can you add this thread to the list? I'm sure it will help others as it has helped me tremendously.
  3. I know I'm reviving an old thread, but this information is extremely valuable and I'm thankful for the knowledge gained on these forums. My contact points were stuck, but after a few winds and some light oil, my clock is ticking!
  4. I guess if it is made from aluminum, it should be as light as the power steering pump, so makes sense! Thanks for the pictures, I have never seen the original bracket before. I'll most likely use the 401 bracket as a template, and then use the bolt spacing of the compressor to make the top, like you did. Looks like the driver side compressor bolt hole is in line with the water log bolts? What's the spacing from the top log bolt to the compressor bolt? If you have that on hand, that is...
  5. Mike, no rear bracket? How sturdy is it? Does it bounce?
  6. I had the same problem and did the same until I dug my original out of the trash.
  7. What were white wall height for 56 (same as 54,55?)? 2 3/4? I ask because someone near me is selling 4 new Diamondback Radials 235/75R15 with 3 3/4 width white walls for $850 and I'm wondering how big they would be in comparison. I have no comparison photos to look at the differences. I doubt I'll be able to grab these tires anyways, but thought to ask just in case...
  8. Looks fake to me.
  9. This thread is a blast from the not so distant past. Brandon, what was the name of the place that did your work? Wouldn't mind finding something like that near me, that's about all I can afford.
  10. I would take the old hose to a local auto parts store that has vacuum hose by the length and get you some new hose. NAPA is usually pretty good about that kind of stuff. No sense re-using the old, brittle hose. It got 60 years out of it, maybe lay it to rest? Use weather strip adhesive. Apply it to the booster, not the hose, and then slide it over and let set.
  11. Before you pull it back apart, the pin at the brake pedal should be offset to allow the pedal to be moved up and down. Did you try adjusting the pedal first? You should be able to oil the booster at the vent on the side, if it has one. Just keep oiling until it's noticeably wicked through. From what you said, it moves just fine without being attached to the firewall, but when the pedal is attached is when it binds?
  12. I would probably flush your coolant, double check your t-stat with maybe replacing it with a new one. Double check your rad cap, too. Brass radiators don't like any more than 7lbs of pressure. Maybe even pop out some freeze plugs and see if the block needs some cleaning? Coolant does break down over time and just like brake fluid, should be replaced every couple years whether you drive it alot or not.
  13. I think a spacer would be more like a shim between the booster and master cylinder so there isn't slop. For example, you go to put your foot on the pedal and the booster rod moves a little before contacting the master cylinder plunger. Since your braking is pretty good, I doubt you need that spacer. I would guess it's the booster, too. The master cylinder would more than likely be spring loaded and allow the rod to return easily, but the diaphragm in the booster could be stuck, or something is not allowing it to return, like how Joel noted. Also, like Willie said, there needs to be some sort of vent. On the original boot, the vent came from out of the vacuum chamber stem and flowed through the boot back to the cylinder (at least on the old units). If you have a boot on there that looks more like a cone than a cylinder, you could be restricting the flow to allow the booster to release. Cleaning the booster is probably your best bet! Willie, did you use the repro boots or the original on your rebuild? I had chucked my old one for a new one, only to find out the new one was restricting flow since it tapered at the top. The old one works without any holes cut in it.
  14. There should be an adjustment at the brake pedal to align the rod with the pedal. You might have a slight bind that is keeping it from returning. If the adjustment doesn't help, then the leather cup is too dry and is not allowing it to return properly. The 56 shop manual says to lube the leather cup with ATF, not sure about 58. And by lube, I mean soak that thing really good until it's completely wicked. Likewise, just with all old rubbers, that hose in the booster should have been replaced. The old one was glued, so this one should be, too.
  15. You should try for one day taking off the mechanical fan and see how it runs. You might be surprised how much of a difference it might make. Or it could go the other way, but you never really know. It's not a flex fan, is it? They say for optimal flow through a fan shroud, you need 1" spacing all around (18" fan in a 20" shroud - this is for engine flex), and the fan has to sit halfway in and halfway out. Also what kind of thermostat are you running? How many pump vanes? What type of coolant? Cap pressure?