Beemon

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Beemon last won the day on March 7

Beemon had the most liked content!

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About Beemon

  • Rank
    Unorthodox Restorer
  • Birthday 12/19/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, WA
  • Interests:
    Cars, Women

Converted

  • Biography
    I'm a 23 year old college student trying to piece together my grandfather's old beauty.

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  1. Could be a bad ground to the switch? If it's not tight against the dash, it could cause issues. Mine is like that, because I've been lazy and haven't bought the correct trim screws to tighten it down.
  2. I don't know, I would drive it as is. I would just fix the wheel base and then have fun. Some years ago my dad and I went fishing on the east side of Washington, and there's a dune course over there. Two guys lifted 1970s Corvettes like this and were just tearing it up in a 4WD hot rod.
  3. Probably best to get the radiator from the shop now before they start adding service $$$.
  4. It's a 53. It matches the lighter my grandfather kept from the one he rolled in 56.
  5. No one on these boards have ever claimed to be an expert. They've been called experts, but I'm pretty sure everyone has been humble. Which is why I always come here first.
  6. I fortunately have another vehicle to drive for a bit during this period. I just don't like to drive it because it's held over my head. I think I'll keep the engine I have and go from there. The full gasket kit is not expensive and will be a good place to start. I'll probably start into disassembly later this week if everything goes well. I'm still going to do it myself, I'm done consulting experts for a while.
  7. No one said Roadmaster, but I get your point. Either way, the engine is coming out.
  8. John, if you were to bet money, do you think it's the accelerator pump or the check ball under the top hat? The pump shot was there after rebuild and now it's gone.
  9. 1. Spark plugs are 6 months new. I pulled #1 when I swapped the Rochester for the Carter, they were fine. 2. I have not done a compression test recently, but when I did the rear main seal "fix", the numbers looked ok 3. It was bored .030 4. The only documentation I got was the balance paperwork and a receipt of purchase for the Best Gasket engine kit plus man hours. I am not sure if the rings are from there or not. I'll have to dig and see if there is any other paper work, but off the top of my head that's all I got. After doing the rear main "fix", I am not doing anything on my back under the car, especially when it can rain tomorrow. I did the rear main in a down pour because it wouldn't let up and I regretted it. It's pull the engine or bust. I would like to clarify that money I'm throwing at the engine is my own money, not college tuition money. As with everything I do to the car, it is under a specific budget. This just means I cut something out, like a cheap paint job or front end suspension work. KC, rebuilding the engine I have seems counter productive since it's already been ran through. I would rather take the chance on an engine block that can use stock pistons versus my already worn .030 rebuild. Especially with issues like oil starvation unintentionally, I feel like there are more problems than I know. Plus with the hardened valve seats, it's a real structural weakness in the heads. All it needs is electrolysis to take hold in the water jacket and wreak havoc on the already weakened cast iron.
  10. The issue with that is that he was recommended to me by some locals when he was running his own shop. My engine was the last engine in his shop. And then he closed down and started working for someone else's shop. The best I can do is slander his name, and even then I feel bad about that. I have all the paperwork and warranty information, but it does me no good if the business isn't still around. When I contacted him the first time, he had filed for bankruptcy so no one could go after him. Guess I wasn't the only one?
  11. Greg, I can't even drive the car without making a stop at the auto parts store and buying 2 quarts of oil to top off. It's not fun anymore. I don't even want to start it and listen to it. The gentleman already has the engine apart and it's the only complete engine in my area. I'm open to offers here on the forums, but it needs to be a complete engine with at least block, head, crank and connecting rods. And it has to be a 56. My engine has been internally balanced to itself and cannot be swapped as far as I know. This is probably too much information, but I suffer from social anxiety and depression. Throughout highschool, I didn't have an outlet other than video games, which only worsened the social anxiety. It's really hard for me to make phone calls as it is. This car has been a gateway for me, and while I'm still a little shy/awkward at drive-ins, this car has built internal bridges for me - as a way to meet and interact with new people and socialize. I feel because I'm naive, I get taken advantage a lot of the time in the process of "restoration". The engine. Power steering pump and gear box. The carburetor. The starter and generator. The distributor. The only thing that's good is the Dynaflow, and that's because the boys who did it are probably the only mechanics I've ever trusted with anything. This car is like a support animal or something for me. I don't need it all the time, but I want it when I need it. About hardened seats - I've heard many horror stories, so I feel like my heads are ticking time bomb in that regard.
  12. Okay so the accelerator pump stopped squirting all together now. Before I dismiss the pump, I didn't replace the check ball inside the housing. Any tips on removing the top hat and installing a new one? If it ends up being the accelerator pump, then I may be making a call to a one Carb King...
  13. From memory I thought he said it had been hot tanked, but he said they need to be hot tanked. How much is it usually to clean a block? And what are the chances of the heads being bad?
  14. No he said it's everything. Lifters, pushrods, etc. What was bolted to the engine is what I get. I had to re-read the email he sent me, and it states everything bolted on from carburetor to oil pan, so I may have to have him reiterate but he did mention it was going in a roadster project and he just went with the chevy 350.
  15. I tried replacing the rear main. It must have "worn in" because I had no oil issues for a while, stopped checking oil levels every day, went on a 30 min highway drive and came home off the off ramp with the lifters ticking away. There was a speck of oil at the bottom of the dip stick. Now there's also this rattling noise on acceleration, and I'm not sure if it's summer blend fuels changing from winter blend fuels or not. Russ was going to be my go to back up, but last time I emailed him he said take a look at my website and that was the end of it. He assumes you already know what you're doing, which I don't and the help stops there. I want to get the engine done before August so I can go to school with the car. Otherwise I have to leave it with either a. Mother, b. Father. My mother hates men so naturally the car will go to waste and my father is a pot head and I'm afraid he's going to do something rash under the influence with his redneck buddies (the last thing I need is to come home from school and see the car completely stripped of paint with the stainless all chewed up from the sander). And don't suggest storage, because I won't be able to afford it. It took me two tax returns and saving up everything I had to afford the $4200 price tag of the rebuild. I can't do that again, I have to budget for what I can afford now, which means I buy a kit and I do the work myself. The guy whose selling already had it dipped and cleaned and left it because he swapped in a bowtie. I don't know what else is wrong with it other than the piston but he said it comes complete from carburetor to oil pan. The other thing is, I want a 56 322, not a 53-55 322...