Beemon

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Beemon last won the day on March 7

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About Beemon

  • Rank
    Unorthodox Restorer
  • Birthday 12/19/1991

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, WA
  • Interests:
    Cars, Women

Converted

  • Biography
    I'm a 23 year old college student trying to piece together my grandfather's old beauty.

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  1. So I'm thinking worst case scenario here, and will most likely be hunting for new heads, but what can I do to combat the low compression pistons? Maybe shave the heads and block deck to the proper compression ratio? I also heard using 55 heads on a 56 increases compression? Would I run into any valve clearance issues? The heads will be coming off today if I have time before work, tomorrow at the latest.
  2. That's funny, my dad did a 396 swap in his 78 Chev K10 back in the early 90s, before he sold it for an 80 and dropped a 502 in it. I always knew dad was coming to pick me up from daycare because I could hear him from 5 miles away. Funny you mention the "Farmtruck" because my dad's been living with my uncle for the last couple of years now down on the coast and we just got running my uncle's 1970 C20. It's got the stock 350 in it, but the exact same color as the Farmtruck, with matching bed cover. They're thinking about doing a 396 swap in that one, too, but cheap throw away engines waiting to be built aren't as plentiful as they were 20 years ago. Wew, we're wayyy off topic now... lol
  3. My dad had a built 426 before I was born. Used to always call him a liar until he drudged out some old photos. He said when everyone was putting the nose up, he put the nose as low to the ground as possible and just rolled with it.
  4. Hills where I live are plentiful, I don't think a vacuum tank will hold more than 30 seconds before it's depleted... plus where I'll be going to school is on the other side of a busy mountain pass followed by a steep gradual slope (downhill going, uphill coming back) and then rolling plains. Coming back from orientation was the first time I'd seen the old girl puke green after we made it to the top of the steep incline before the start of the mountain pass. Vacuum tank works fine for brakes because they're not constantly on and they can replenish before you use them again, especially when vacuum builds on deceleration. But wipers are on all the time, I don't think I'd see a noticeable performance gain when driving 45 minutes up a mountain.
  5. Around here, gas is blue. How long had the gas been sitting for?
  6. Found the bill and balance sheet but no warranty, must be over at my grandpa's. I guess they didn't understand the crank was externally balanced, but I guess it doesn't matter. I always figured there was a new cam in there, but I guess it was the originals with some cheap lifters (one has a really bad tick). I wouldn't be surprised if I needed a new cam now. Looks like I have a "new" timing chain in there, too, which explains so much. I guess I was being too optimistic with my $4200 figure, but I guess I paid $4700 for a bad job.
  7. It must be my luck, though. I've been screwed on everything I've had rebuilt by someone else in the hobby. It almost makes a newcomer like me not even want to bother with old cars anymore. At this point it's not even fun or enjoyable anymore, fixing others mistakes and being out hundreds of dollars.
  8. Willis, for clarification the only rebuilder id bad mouth is the original rebuilder, and not this new guy. I was looking for the warranty information this morning after work when I recalled he filed bankruptcy to get out of another warranty before closing his shop on my motor. A man is only as good as his word, and you can't trust someone who can't face the music... I'm still looking for the paper work. At the very least, some pay back would be nice. The new guy I found out about came from me poking around the junkyard yesterday and a close friend of his, who happened to see me under the hood of a 57, told me about him. He runs his own shop across the street from the only ethanol free station (a good 45 minutes out of my way). Turns out he's also really good friends with the owner of the shop my would be rebuilder works at. Reputation is everything, and with social media it can really destroy a person. Word of mouth is spreading about my engine, but I think it'll be worth it plopping my destroyed heads down on the counter if the seats are cracked. I can't get the $4200 I spent saving for 2 years in anticipation of driving the car I fell in love with looking at 20 years ago, but I can get some satisfaction in ruining a shoddy machinists reputation...
  9. I'm a bit worried now. Not that I wasn't worried before. I'm starting to think the guy that rebuilt my engine charged me hefty but put cheap parts in the engine and just did a really poor valve grind. The one spark plug could also be an indication of a hardened valve seat cracking? The low compression is what worries me the most. Even if the low compression gaskets were used, my uncle shaved the heads in the 80s to give it higher compression before letting it sit and I'm sure when the shop resurfaced my heads, it would have added a little bit more. Knowing that, and differences with gaskets, I still expected it to ballpark right at 140-150. As it so happens, a gentleman just uncovered a 1955 264 crate motor near me. I'm not sure what he wants for it, but it might be a good substitute until I get all this figured out. I'm going to take the car up to another shop out on the edge of the mountains an hour away from me. It came from great praise now from two different people in two different regions around here, and I'll be taking the car for it's last drive to confirm suspicions. He's an old boy I've been told who does old engines for hobbyists. I know what my numbers are, but it doesn't hurt to get more opinions even though it all points to one conclusion... I will just need a reliable shop to fall back on when the time comes.
  10. The two plugs on the driver side bank had oil in the wells, not actually from the cylinder. My valve covers are warped, but I never noticed with the spark plug covers on that they have been leaking. I thought about my PCV experiment, too, but I find it odd that only one plug is like that out of 8. Regarding compression testing, throttle was held open like it says in he shop manual. It also says in the shop manual that 140 PSI is for Special Syncromesh, 160 PSI for Special Dynaflow and 170 PSI for all other models. Plus, everything I've ready said readings have to be within the 20% range of all cylinders and at 100-105 PSI (I was really being optimistic here) compared to 120-125 PSI seems too low for these cylinders. Cam is stock as far as I know. I've never performed a leak down test before, though. That just puts pressure on the rings, right?
  11. I have been helping my dad move into a new place the past two weeks on my day's off. He's out on the coast and it hasn't been without some fun. My uncle lives 30 mins from him and he had a 1966 IH Scout I6 and a 1970 Chevy C20 350ci parked in the barn/carport area that haven't been running in a few years. We got both of them started and moved so I've kind of adopted two new engines between two old men that used to rod in the 70s and 80s but apparently lost the trade when they had to "grow up" (IE kids). So I got back into town, handed the guy at Autozone a $50 and pulled the spark plugs in the parking lot. I did a compression test tonight, and here are my results: 115 105 125 120 115 115 115 105 So it looks like I have two bad cylinders on the same side of the engine, but I feel like these numbers are less than satisfactory for an engine with only 8000 miles on it (if I'm being generous). Here are the plugs: L2R: 7,5,3,1 8,6,4,2 (looks like I found a partial oil leak, too. Been wondering why the starter has been dripping...) The picture makes them kind of whiter than they were, but they were a pretty decent tan. So I guess that says something about my carb tuning abilities... too lean? I'm not sure what happened to #3... according to the guide at AutoZone, it says ash deposits are an excess of oil in the combustion chamber or something... I hope the guides aren't worn... Anyways, I'll be clearing some space in the garage this weekend hopefully. I won't really get into pulling the engine until my next set of days off, though. It's actually kind of depressing, I was hoping for the best, but this engine is worse than a stock 2 barrel low compression Syncromesh Special (140psi), when it should be 170psi minimum. I figured being .030 over, that it would have been somewhere around 150psi with the "low compression" pistons, but man...
  12. Sounds like Washington. After October this year, I'll have one year before the car is officially in my name. Which is fine, as long as my grandpa is living and lost title doesn't show up in my uncle's hand. You should have nothing to worry about.
  13. I wonder if this will fit around the edge of the 50s snorkels?
  14. No comment on those expensive rally wheels?
  15. Any 364/401/425 exhaust manifold should bolt up to your block, fitment to your system may be a bit difficult as I think the manifolds changed quite a bit year to year. For your manifolds, it looks like 57 and 58 interchanges according to Russ's website.