emjay

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About emjay

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  • Birthday 07/29/1955
  1. I've been noticing the early Studebakers (and some later ones) that show up in the general discussions and now I think dad (born 1911) was keeping secrets from us. They had some very interesting and unique designs which would appeal to the non-main stream types that our family is . He was a big Model T Ford man and may have been trying to avoid temptation but might explain why his first brand new car was a 1960 6 cylinder Lark wagon with an automatic. I learned several years ago that Studebaker had some great V8s into the fifties but you had to be patient with that Lark since it took a couple seconds for the torque converter to start moving the car. I just wanted to comment that I'm starting to admire Studebakers in a whole new light.
  2. Brake shoe primary or secondary?

    I added a response on the topic in the tech section. I think the confusion is created by the various drum brake design, chiefly whether each shoe has a fixed pivot/anchor or floating and a subjective conclusion that the brake designers were learning a few things along the way as well. I think they have reach the position later that on the most common system with a singe, double ended wheel cylinder with the floating pivot/anchor both shoes are leading and therefore should have the same lining length. If your system is different, then it might be appropriate to have different shoes, leading and trailing.
  3. Thoughts on Brake Linings

    Mind your terminology. You can't talk about leading/trailing shoes until you identify what brake design you have. Assuming just the single point of force application, it matters whether the shoes are anchored at the other end or floating. It is also important to identify mechanical actuation or single fixed hydraulic cylinder. If the anchor is fixed, the front will self energize and the rear will de-energize, so without a doubt leading and trailing but what is the objective? Even wear or equal braking effort from both shoes? Generally equal wear would be the choice. In general the classic friction equation of normal force and coefficient of friction applies but is independent of with surface area. The trailing shoe has less normal force than the leading shoe so should it be long and soft or short with the same hardness, assuming soft linings have higher coefficients of friction. The surface area must play a role just like wider tires somehow give more traction. With that thought the trailing shoe should be longer to generate similar friction force to the leading shoe and then equal wear. Changing the material is too confusing. However, the most common design is the floating anchor and single, double ended cylinder. I see this design as one leading shoe that is in two pieces and works well in both directions of rotation, which is a limitation of other designs. Don't lose sight of the point that the brake fluid acts on both pistons with the pressure and thus the same force. The self energizing principle is an opposing force on the rear piston (cylinder on top) which in turns pushes both pistons forward within the cylinder. That tells me the rear shoe is also self energizing and therefore the design has two leading shoes in both directions of rotation. When you stop and think about it as the brake designers did over the years, it means both shoes should be alike and thus they are. Now a fixed mechanical actuation may be something else again. Those short and long, soft and hard sets may just have been part of the learning curve. This is why I see drum brakes as the more eloquent design over discs, since discs need more massive components due to the high brute clamping force required, which can be readily supplied.
  4. Paint Color Opinions

    " A great deal of time and money is spent on deciding these original colors for maximum sales, and, generally, those colors remain the most popular, for that model, today." Does that apply to Edsels too? So did it work for them or against them?
  5. Our awareness of safety and knowledge/respect of equipment was different then. In most cases unpressurized gasoline simply burns. It's not explosive until the vapor is pressurized despite what Hollywood shows. Accidents usually happen out in the wide open and car is ripped open. Unless you were unconscious the first thing you did was turn off the ignition because we were smarter than. We we okay with a 10% chance of a fire hazard. Now everything needs to be 99.99% safe.
  6. Can anybody ID this?

    We used a Bullet Nose Studebaker hood for a sled. No control at all and had a tendency to turn around backwards and then scoop up snow.
  7. A book of steam engine usage

    Furnaces designed for hot water heating (hydronic) are tested to 60psi per ASME. Typically operate at 20psi or less with a safety valve set at maybe 40 psi.
  8. A book of steam engine usage

    Please explain what you mean by excess heat. All hydonic systems reuse the water and just brings the water back up to temperature. It's not a like a heat engine where mechanical energy is created as the fluid goes from hot to cold. Heating systems have pumps. If you have steam heat, again the stem gives off heat to heat your space and then it shuts down. If you are referring to the exhaust gases resulting in the heating process you might have some option other than a heat exchanged mention by someone else. Perhaps a slow turbo just as exhaust gases drive the turbochargers, but it may end up just being a drag on the combustion fan but there is expansion present. Another item that might be interesting is the Stirling cycle I believe it was called. It was an external combustion engine that used warm air to move pistons as I recall. It was the hot thing in the Seventies, but apparently didn't go far. Your flue gases may be able to drive it.
  9. This topic is huge and everyone is writing such long responses, so here's another one. As has been stated many times, the driving factor of collectors of anything is some form of reliving the past so it's natural for the vintage of the collectible to change with the advent of new collectors. However, there are the second and third generation collectors and a few youngsters that see the older items as desirable. Sure some people are just plain grumpy but it might not help the situation that after years of collecting parts and pieces and sweating many hours rebuilding to see that the market value has peaked and is falling. I'm second generation and I was very aware that the iron that I collected may simply end as scrap metal, so I tried not to spend much in the front end, but did invest in a building to store it. I also see my fall back position will be my dad's Fords. Which brings me to the next point, support network. Up through the Fifties and Sixties junkyards weren't forced to turn inventory. It was possible to still find parts for twenty, thirty, and maybe forty year old vehicles as long as they were still in use during WWII scrap drives. Flea markets were thriving with old parts. That situation is one thing that has changed so unless you own something that has a good network such as Model T and A Fords, Fifties Chevys, etc you're on your own and has a serious effect on market value. Even though many see the hot rod crowd as negative, their activity helps on the part availability scene. I image a lot of that has already been said, but one thing that probably hasn't is the nature of the hobby. As the technology of the manufacturers improved as they continued to control costs, the complexity of the components increased. Rebuilding all those molded plastic parts made out of material that does take glue well is next to impossible and the only alternative is a new part and of course that is a limited supply, so that is actually advantageous to the future of the older simpler vehicles whose components can be taken apart and repaired. However, losing some of these "Lost Arts" is a problem. The important point is vintage car collecting shouldn't be viewed as a sterile activity and seldom as an investment. Just get in their, get your hands dirty, and enjoy what you have and do. Don't fret over others. That's their problem. Make YOUR decision on what works for you. And remember, being able to get in your car that you WANT and go for a drive is a natural justification that stamp collecting can't provide. Learning a new skill while overcoming some restoration obstacle has more value and reward (to some) than going to a profession sports game. You have a souvenir that YOU made.
  10. old walker floor jack

    The best thing to do is take the seals out and measure them and then search online for the seal. In the Eighties I bought a new jack off one of the tool dealers at a flea market. Fifteen to twenty years later it failed and I brought the seal into a repair shop and they just laughed after asking if it was Chinese. I stuck it on the shelf and bought a new jack. A couple years ago, I went on line and found the seal and possibly a entire rebuild kit, so I suspect you could as well and knowing the manufacturer will make it easier. The main ram seal is the best place to start and match it's style from online listings and then find your size. Somewhere along the line you will get a part number of the basic seal. Then searching with that, you'll starting finding kits as well. On the other hand I have my uncle's jack from his Sunoco station that looks like the Hein-Werner 1 1/4 ton pictured above. My uncle had it rebuilt by a local shop but couldn't find the right parts (late Eighties) and the resulting symptoms is it only pumps the last 5° of the handle swing. The point is just following the books may be a dead end but usually no jack manufacturer required new special seals to be made. They used existing seals and are likely still made. It's the kits that might not be made anymore.
  11. Here is a photo of a modern copy of the multiple hinged door style. They were common in row garages off the alley. Since the door bottom is not always in contact with it's respective sealing surface, various seals could be used but a raise threshold most likely is required. Another approach would be to drop the seal once the door panels are in place. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=wyRCZn8I&id=28BEEBEF20D693A83764EF364B05B02BF63843EC&thid=OIP.wyRCZn8I8n8b8YhLWyZQfQHaEt&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fstatic1.squarespace.com%2fstatic%2f53ac9883e4b087682313c113%2f53b5adb2e4b0e3bc2ac88d60%2f53b5ccd1e4b078c586e9fdf0%2f1420574132108%2fboat_house_doors.jpg&exph=630&expw=992&q=hinged+garage+door+plans&simid=608009552715383568&selectedIndex=0&ajaxhist=0
  12. Industrial sliders such in factories had an inclined track and a counterweight the door as it moves up the track. The incline allows the door to hit the floor only when closed. An alternative that Dad did for his bachelor pad (well so much for that) was very tight. The door rolled on two wheels mounted on eccentrics so the door (perhaps wall would be a better term) could be cam-ed up off the floor and then pushed out of the way. There was a guide on the top that pulled the door away from the wall at the top. When closed the leading edge was wedged behind brackets and the other end had to be coaxed the last bit and then secured with a bolt. The door panel had a fixed window and a walk in door with a bit of a threshold to step over. This is an idea of what needs to be done to seal a sliding door. Weatherstripping can work on the sides and top but the bottom is the challenge. Some garages had multiple hinged doors hung on a track so that they could accordion. Often the one panel is hinged off the opening and the first one is hinged against the next panel and can be used as a walk in door and a quick easy partial opening. The wheels are only at the hinged ends that will stay in line with the opening and need to pivot. Sealing is much like any hinged door leaving the bottom. One approach I've seen is the apron is a bit higher than the floor and often edged with steel for the door to seal against with a few drainage spots or use a floor drain. The door panels can be built with any style you want. If you arch the opening, you a bit limited to door barn doors. Inward hinged would be in the way.
  13. Do I need a pressure regulator

    I don't think your arithmetic makes sense. 4psi times the area (0.012sq in) yields 0.05 lbs or 0.8 ozs. That is the force the float needs to exert onto a 1/8 valve to resists the incoming fuel.
  14. Trico Visionall wiper display help

    You don't show the back side. Could they be manually operated?
  15. I was in the same class on engine versus motor. Only electric vehicles have motors yet "Motor Car" was widely used. Thermodynamics calls these things "heat engines" probably because they produce work by moving energy from a high temp source to a low temp output. The internal combustion engine hides the high temp source internally.