kingrudy

Members
  • Content Count

    126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

60 Excellent

About kingrudy

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/12/1950

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mikebs06@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Asheville, North Carolina
  • Interests:
    Dogs and Cars - 1940 56S

Recent Profile Visitors

866 profile views
  1. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Received some parts today for work on the quarter windows and back seat flooring. I received some valuable information from Tom regarding installation of new rollers for the drivers side window. Parts are on order for those rollers and hope to receive them tomorrow. Today I pulled the plate that covers the brake and clutch pedal to check the insulation and found that some was loose and needed to be tightened up a bit. I used some high temp spray adhesive to secure this. I also purchased the two boots for the brake and clutch pedals and installed those. I was able to stretch those over the pedals and no need to do any more dismantling. Next I laid that jute padding out to see how this was going to fit. The padding and the front mat were purchased from Bob's Automobilia some years ago. The mat was a pretty good fit, but there was no cut out for the dimmer switch. Brake, clutch and throttle all had proper holes provided, but nothing for the dimmer switch. The mat was the same (nothing for the dimmer switch. I have seen videos that recommend using spray adhesive on i the padding, but I would say first check the fit, as the three holes for the gas pedal are very close to the exact dimensions of the two screws and the rod at the top of the pedal. I ended up enlarging them slightly in order to provide play and being able to install the two screws under the gas pedal. I still have some clean up to do, but overall I'm happy with this product.
  2. kingrudy

    Window Regulator Overhaul '40 Buick

    When installing the seals for the rear quarter window, I believe that the belt strip on the outside reveal and the inside window garnish act like a sandwich to seal the window and keep it from moving side to side. My question is how is it sealed on the front portion of the glass when closed?
  3. kingrudy

    Window Regulator Overhaul '40 Buick

    Now if you have any pics of a sliding rear quarter window for this coup, I would be forever in your debt.
  4. kingrudy

    Window Regulator Overhaul '40 Buick

    Really appreciate the advice and the pics. I will go ahead and purchase the item from Chevs of the 40s with the 5/16" pin. I did not want to start with a complete regulator if these guides will work.
  5. kingrudy

    Window Regulator Overhaul '40 Buick

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-Side-DoorQuarter-Plastic-Window-Glass-Regualtor-Wheel-Roller-1pc-B/122799386176?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m-Rear-1438.l2649 I also found this part on ebay which does have a roller that does not look like a pulley and would fit in the guides.
  6. kingrudy

    Window Regulator Overhaul '40 Buick

    So the stock roller looks like a doughnut and is in the guides (top and bottom). This roller will not fit in the guide but will travel on the rail?
  7. Window Regulator Roller & Rivet 5/16'' - Part #3847282 from Chevs of the 40's Well I have my window regulator out of the car and removed the pins, but I am not sure if the parts mentioned above are correct as the rollers were completely gone when I removed the regulator. If these are not correct can someone give me a lead as to where I can get the right ones. Thanks, Mike '40 Buick Super
  8. kingrudy

    1941 Special - 2-dr convertible

    I happened to see this car when I attended the Cool April Nights car show in Redding three years ago. As I remember it does show a bit of wear on an older restoration, but there should be no rust as it is very dry in that area. I agree with Ken that if someone were to think about buying, you have to see this in person.
  9. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Continued work on the drivers side regulator yesterday. First thing that I did is drill out the old roller guides. I used a 1/2" drill bit to drill the backside of the roller guide making sure that I wasn't too aggressive to remove metal from the regulator itself. The first picture is after drilling thee guide, then I took a pair of channel locks and twisted the piece to free it from the regulator body. Picture two shows the regulator without the roller guide. I used a little primer so I wouldn't have to think which side of the metal the new roller goes on. Picture three shows the inside of the roller channel after I used paint thinner to remove all of the grease and gunk that had built up after 79 years. I have attached a link from YouTube that I found most helpful. I ordered the rollers and guides from Old Buick Parts for $2.50 each times three, I am not advertising for this company, but I couldn't find them anywhere else. As soon as they arrive I will post the install and results. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF1rok1yN9s
  10. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Waiting on a couple of parts for the front windshield and the rear quarter window windows, so I thought I would pull the window regulator and give it some love. I spent some time lubricating the spring and loosing up all the working parts and then I noticed that the nylon washers that should be in picture #1 are gone. I'm not sure how to tackle this one, do I drill out the carriers for the nylon rollers? Is there any other option? Also, do they still make the black insulation/ noise reduction material that is found on the trunk lid and the floors?
  11. kingrudy

    Minnesota: Windy Hill Auto Salvage, New London

    I have mixed results with Windy Hill. First let me say that the people that I have spoken to could not have been nicer. The problem that I had with them came about when I purchased a door lock mechanism that I had been looking for over a year for my "40 Super. This mechanism was only produced for the Super and Roadmaster, so it is difficult to find. The guy in the yard cut the door handle off with a cutting torch, which distorted the brass latch piece that the handle fits into. The part was not usable, but they did refund my payment. I would have rather had the part. On hindsight maybe I should have offered $25 extra to remove it gently, it would have been worth it. Nice people though.
  12. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Yesterday and today worked on the floor. On the drivers side and passengers side there were four u bolts that secured the seat belts. The two easy ones closest to the door were taken out long ago. The two nearest to the center of the car needed to be removed (new seat belts will be added later). One side of the u bolt was three inches long??? The other side was only one inch as it ended right above a cross member. Both were a mother to get out with a sawzall and a box ratchet. I put bolts in place of the u bolts as a temporary measure until the new seat belts are purchased. Took a wire brush to the floors to get them as clean as possible, washed them with soap and hot water (probably not done in 79 years). There was a little surface rust near the back seat, so I used a rust reformer (Rustoleum) on these spots, sheet metal was solid, as the car spent it's whole life in Southern California. The last picture shows the final product after rolling on the Rustoleum gloss black enamel. I will let this set up for two days and then see what can be done on the cowl.
  13. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    Today I got the dash completed (sort of) and got the two most important things, the lights and the ignition switch. The first illustration shows the key position (start) to the lock and remove the cylinder. On the second picture (taken while lying on my back under the ignition switch) notice the blue circle.The screw is located at about the 4:30 position when you are facing the dash. This screw holds the switch in place, it also makes sure that when you put the key and the face plate together, that the key will correspond to the positions in the first illustration. I took some extra time on this to make sure that the switch turned freely (if it doesn't, the car won't start). Place the plastic piece on next and secure this with the small screw on the bottom is the switch. The light switch is held in place by a male screw on the outside of the face plate and an Allen screw that secures the plastic pull to the shaft of the light switch. I know that when this is complete that I will have to go back and replace the plastic pieces, but that is not my priority. Right now I am trying to knock down the large projects and I'll do a punch list at the end. The dash is complete for the most part, I still have to put the windshield wiper switch in, no big deal. I went to pick up all of the material for sealing the floor, will start on this in the morning.
  14. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    I'm hoping so.
  15. kingrudy

    My long build of a 1940 56S

    It was a good day, the left side of the steering column is complete and all wiring is done. On the right side the enclosure for the ignition switch, light switch and choke was installed and the dash should be finished off. The two screws that secure engine turned portion to the dash were quite a challenge, one hand behind the dash and completely by feel alone. I still have to put the light in the glove box and the light for the clock. When I get the proper light sockets for this hopefully I will have a solution for the switch that makes the light come on when the glove box door is opened. The picture to the far right is of the seat brackets. I put them in some Evap-o-Rust over night and gave them a wire wheel treatment. Then I gave them a coat of primer and will add a coat of gloss black tomorrow. Looking ahead, after the dash is complete, I will give the floor the same treatment that I did in the trunk with a coat of primer and a coat of gloss black.