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About Smitty168

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  • Birthday 03/24/1940

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  1. Smitty168


    Hello, I am working on a 1936 D2 Sedan. Just finishing up on the Dashboard. Question is on the Ammeter/Voltmeter. It seems to register a charge and discharge ok but the needle starts out on 1/4 charge indication with no current on (key off) and when the engine is at idle and the battery is not calling for a charge. Is there any way to adjust the needle so it is at the mid point when the key is off or when the batt is not calling for a charge?? The gauge is not original to this model since the mounting screw holes are at 9 and 3 o'clock. The correct mounting holes should be at 11 and 5. It seems to fit ok if I lock it down with large washers under the mounting screws and clamping the edge of the gauge housing. If anyone has a way to adjust the needle or barring that, if someone has a good working gauge with the correct mounting holes, I'd be happy to purchase same. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance.
  2. Smitty168

    HEAT SHIELD 1953 P-24 Fuel Pump

    PLY33. Thanks this will really help. Appreciate your sharing. Best regards.
  3. Smitty168

    HEAT SHIELD 1953 P-24 Fuel Pump

    PLY33, Thanks for your reply. I followed your link and was not able to find the schematic. I'm not a member of the Plymouth club so the web site only allows non members to look at a few pages 'as a guest' before being locked out. The P24 engine I'm working on is installed in a 1936 Dodge, Canadian built. They standardized on Plymouth base at that time and assembled the cars as Dodges, Desoto's or Plymouth's depending on what the customer ordered. Probably to save on import paperwork and taxes. I have the original P-2 engine. At some time in it's life the car acquired a 1953 Plymouth P24 engine. The P2 accessories were swapped out so I have an interesting engine. Finding parts is a lot of fun since I've got to be aware of what car the part is for Dodge or Plymouth. If you would, could you download the schematic (i'm assuming it will be in PDF format) and email it to me at ? Thanks in advance for your interest and help
  4. Smitty168

    HEAT SHIELD 1953 P-24 Fuel Pump

    Looking for direction. I'm working on a '53 P-24 Engine Need a source for a Fuel Pump HEAT SHIELD or Schematics for same. Have recently experienced vapor lock after long hill climb. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  5. Smitty168


    Looking for direction. I'm working on a Plymouth 1953 P-24 Engine. Need a source or a template for a HEAT SHIELD. Also advice on how to mount at the manifold. Recently had a vapor lock incident after climbing a long hill. Some say the heat shield is not necessary. I don't agree. Thanks for your help.
  6. Smitty168

    Handle, TRUNK

    Art, Is that handle for sale? smitty168
  7. Smitty168

    Handle, TRUNK

    Thought I'd come to you folks for help in a HANDLE Search. My 1936 Sedan is slowly coming together. Looking good if I do say so me self. What I need is a correct TRUNK HANDLE (Working, With Key). A friend who's advice I value cautioned me against trying to re chrome a marginal one since the acids could destroy the important lock related brass parts. So what I guess I'm looking for is a 'pretty good' one. If you have one that you'd be willing to sell please let me know. Also, there is a man who maintains a booth at Hershey who sold me a door key lock last year. I'm sure I noticed he had a number of handles on his table that could have been the Trunk Handle I'm looking for. If anyone knows his name and/or how I can reach him, I'd appreciate the contact information. Pretty sure he was located in the Orange Field in the OAA Row. Thanks in advance for your help.
  8. Hello, a neighbor recently produced the attached picture and asked if anyone in our club could identify the car. He's not an 'old car guy', the car is pictured in front of his house and he found it shortly after he purchased the house. The car appears to us to be a STEAMER but what make and what year is the question. We assume that the pipes at the right running board are Whistles of some sort. Must have sounded like a railroad engine. Since our club members are all Model A ford types we are not able to identify the car. Any assistance you can provide will be appreciated. Thanks, Smitty168
  9. Smitty168

    1936 D-2 King Pin Replacement

    Jim, Happy to oblige but you'll have to be a bit patient. The car's at the upholster (about an hour away) and I don't think I'll have it back here until March or April. Will a photo work? I can take a picture of the plate's the next time I'm up there. Hope I can remember to bring my camera. I've got a case of CRS. Regarding the King Pin Turorial; They may not exist. The process is not that complicated they're all pretty much self evident. Might need special tools like reamers which most guys don't have in their tool kits. A good written tutorial might explain all that...along with 'tricks of the trade' suggestions and least that's what I was hoping. Since the Motor's Manual hardly mentions the process, I'm guessing this was a minor everyday chore in most mechanic shops of the day. Either all that or the MOPAR King PIns and Spindle assemblies were so well made, there was no need for replacement. Ever. Best to you up there in the great white north. Smitty.
  10. Smitty168

    Engine Rebuild Shop near Cobleskill, NY?

  11. Smitty168

    1936 D-2 King Pin Replacement

    Thought of that, plan to replace them too. Just want to redo everything now instead of waiting for future failures on the road. Don't have the car here so can't pull wheels. Just as well ... snowing. Thanks for your reply Keiser. Smitty
  12. Need some help here. I'm planning to replace the King Pins on my 1936 D-2 sometime next spring. Too cold in the barn to be sitting on concrete now. I have the rebuild kit but before I tackle this project I'm looking for a good tutorial on the procedure. I'm sure it's no big deal. Last King Pin replacement I did was several years ago on a Model A Ford. I've checked my Motor's Manual and it's no help (unless I'm not looking in the right section?) Anyway, I'm sure someone out there in the 'Brain Trust' has done this job and/ or has a good written description of the process. To the question 'why?'...........The front wheels both show a good 'wiggle' when I lift the car off the ground and wiggle top to bottom. As long as I'm restoring the other stuff, good time to do the Pins and Breaks and etc. If it matters, this car was assembled in Canada so there are slight differences from a '36 D-2. Thanks in advance for your help gents. Smitty
  13. Smitty168


    1936 D2, Under advisement. Loose reasoning? FYI, Snyders Auto Parts is a great company. I sourced a huge amount of parts from them when restoring my Model "A". They offer a great coil. A-12000 is a Ford part number and references the 6 Volt Coil used in Model 'A's'. They were one of my original sources for the Coil I anticipate using (have a spare in my Model 'A' toolbox). As far as I know Snyder's sells Model 'A' Ford parts exclusively. I called the supplier I referenced above to see if there was a more appropriate '30's / '40's aftermarket and age correct version similar to the Snyder's offering. Their insistance in knowing what make and model distributor I have is what prompted me to ask my original question on this thread. 1936 D2, if you want to sell the complete set of Coil and Mounting hardware shown in your pictures, I may be interested, if the price is right. Let's talk. Smitty
  14. Smitty168


    Guys, Thanks for your valuable input (as usual). Bottom line here is I think you are telling me that any 6 volt coil will do. Resistor not required. I think the supplier I contacted was confused and may have thought I was looking for a NOS Coil, which I'm not. I know it's heresy but I'm not going to put an original style coil on this car. The originals, even NOS are all at least 76 years old. I'm a tourer, an am very leery of any part that could fail and me without a quick swap spare. I always carry a spare coil, voltage regulator, distributor tune up kit and bailing wire whenever I venture out. My plan is to cover the original Coil Hole with a round plated drilled out to accept a coil bracket (think ohm shape) similar to the way Ford did on the Model A. I just want the assurance of parts availability. A good Friend has given me information from his parts cross reference library and says that they recommended the Borg Warner E5 Coil which is still being manufactured. I think that's my answer. In reference to the "Canadian" issue. I'm finding that the mounting method for the rear Vent Windows is different in that they utilize four TABS for the mounting scews instead of the 5 screws through the window garnish as in the US built cars. Also, the screws were large headed (Truss Head Type) utilizing 'Robertson' drives instead of slotted or phillips drives. Keeps me on my toes. Again, thanks for your help and advice. Smitty
  15. Smitty168


    Happy Fall, Trying to get as much done in my unheated garage before winter sets in here in the great white north. NEED INFO ON WHAT TO ORDER AS A REPLACEMENT COIL FOR MY STOCK 1936 SEDAN. A local supplier told me that I'd need the Distributor Number and Manufacturer before could look up the appropriate coil. That threw me. I've been going along fat and happy thinking that one 6 volt coil was as good as the next and interchangeable. Rather than run back to him, I thought I'd check with the experts here on the AACA Forum. I'm guessing you guys have run into this before and can set me straight. If it is necessary to know the Distributor info it is: AUTO LITE IGS – 4002-1 By the way, this car is a CANADIAN built. Most of the screws and bolts are Metric and the engine is a Plymouth engine. I'm told that's what they put in Canadian Dodges back in the day. If anyone can help with what COIL I should get and WHERE to get it, I'd be very appreciative. Thanks, Smitty