Trained Monkey

Installed the freshly rebuilt (notched body) carb on the car last night with the idle mix and main needle set identical to my friends carb and was immediately impressed with the difference in tuning ability. The idle was noticably different and all sputtering issues had disappeared. It seems like the blocked port was in fact leaving the step up circuit in a sort of limbo state between the ball check spring and the piston's spring. Thanks for all the input.

That's sort of why I phrased the question the way I did. The port would apply vacuum to the step up piston lifting it and presumably "shutting" the step up valve in the float bowl. The gasket that was installed on my friends bb1 had no opening for this when it came to me. I have never had a chance to street drive my car to know if this would have a significant impact on high speeds (high speed circuit assembly not closed ever) or if it's causing issues in tuning my idle (high speed circuit stuck partially open impacting idle settings). I'm still very much learning how these carbs work.

I have been using a friends bb1 on my series 5 Mercer for the past few years and have recently acquired enough parts to make my own identical carb. Unfortunately someone "customized" the manifold flange on the upper portion of mine with a grinder. In the photo, my carb is on the left and my friends on the right. My friends carb does not have this notch and the gasket seals the small port shut entirely when installed. My technical question is this... What is the name of the small port which has been ground into, and how will allowing manifold vacuum to reach it change the operation of the carb? As a note, there is no governor

Looking for the mounting forks for a pair of gray and Davis b3 headlights. Working on reproductions for a 1920s car that the original forks look to have been forged rather than tapered on a lathe and then bent. The original part appears to have a parting line and is oval rather than round. There is also a flattened area for a clevis mounted spreader bar on one side. Sorry for the wrong angle of the photo but it's the only one I have at the moment. Thanks for any help.

Thanks Franklin, Fred and I have actually met a few times. :cool: He did find a source for the valves that was considerably less than I had previously been told to expect. The stems were in fact the greater issue with my original parts, they were horribly corroded in the area of the guides. TM

Does anyone know of a manufacturer who is still willing to make valves for an L-head mercer? I have been told that mine are far too thin to reuse.

Layden, I may have asked long ago but my profile say's i didn't. Do you still have that 23" rim?

If Layden is correct i would like to know what the spoke count is and type of center that they have. I am in search of some 23" wheels.

If any of you happen across any further recognizable photos of my Mercer Like the one Stan had at hershey in 2011 I would love to see it. attached photo is the one Stan had. The cowl lights are a dead giveaway.

What is that monster wrench in the center top of the photo?:confused: It looks more like a tool to stamp new hubcaps than it does the wrench to remove them (13210). Could it be for a pre L-head year? My 13210 is much less substantial and is forged with the words Rudge Whitworth in the handle. Your 10578 looks very nice, you can thank Mr. Galitin for that if I recall Joe's story correctly. Both of mine took a lot of hammer blows back in the day, one actually delaminated down the middle of the handle.:eek: Those "over-restored" hub nuts that the guy on TV complained about did it some good.

You are correct! I had completely forgotten that. there is a Sporting owner in California who has a complete set. Other info, for manufacturers of mercer parts. Cock: Waltham (opinions vary as to which model) according to Waltham historians it should be a 15 jewel with a wind indicator (red dot). Acording to the 1921 series 5 parts catalog the writing on the face should say "Waltham USA" above the six the wind indicator is difficult to discern in the photo but does look to be there. Springs: Perfection Top materials: Pantisote except for 1922-1923 Bumper: (1931) U.S.E. Cooling Fan: Sparton Horn: Stewart Paint: Valentine & Company Crankshafts: Automobile Crankshaft Corp (Detroit) Front axle grease cups: Michigan Marine Battery: Prest-O-Lite (1921) Tires: Goodyear (1921) Rims: Firestone (outer only) Ignition: Eiseman (1921) Start & Lighting: Westinghouse (1921) Carburetor: Penberthy (ball & Ball) Bearings: Various (depends on year, model, and duty) All of the above info gathered through data sheets and advertisements from 1920's periodicals, and Mercer publications.

Maybe I'm resurecting a dead thread here but I just wanted to explain to those who debate the paint that a Mercer Raceabout with a two tone paintjob frame/ body or body/ fenders is not only acceptable (AACA Judging) it is common. In fact under Hares motors command it was the rule, not the exception. My unrestored 21 has remnants of the same layout as Mr. V's car, though with other colors, and has stripling on the body that matches the frame and running gear. Original documents from Mercer Motors advertised the Raceabouts in Yellow, Grey, Blue or Gunmetal. But Hares motors advertising states that if specifications were funished two months prior to shipping date one could get their car painted in any of the standard colors at no extra charge. I have viewed Mr. V's photos taken during the work and would say that what he did was by no means a restoration, but more a preservation, in the military we call it a "clean and treat" which is done to stop corrosion from running rampant. By the by, he has lowered his asking price online recently, but it's still higher than the auction price that the Libaire car went for.

Wow, looking nice so far! That rear axle is strikingly similar to the S5, had to look very closely to note the brake setup is S6.

Hagley Digital Archives Compound Object Viewer on the off chance you hadn't seen this ^ yet... the bottom of page 18 may be particularly telling when you consider that yours has the latest serial number on the roster. (barring the 1931 cars)

I was going to ask about the exact location of the part but then i realized that I have photos of that car back when it was known as the Burrows Mercer. After squinting at them for a bit i found one that shows the top mounting bolt in place. Sorry for the blurry pic but I don't have my scanner with me.