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About nvonada

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  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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    Delaware, OH
  1. Moe is right. Nothing you have said so far says "pull the head". You have fuel or ignition problems to sort out first. The fact that it runs smooth in certain conditions means you have at least a marginally healthy engine.
  2. You probably can. But if your current carb is not leaking why introduce another variable in your mix?
  3. keninman, It sounds like you certainly are chasing two separate problems. So I have two separate thoughts: First you are not developing anything near full power. I doubt very much it is a mechanical problem. It certainly feels like a carb problem but don't rule out ignition. For instance your vacuum advance could be contributing. For the carb check carefully for vacuum leaks. If it is leaking and someone adjusted the carb to run OK at idle with a big air leak then it will probably be super lean as the throttle opens. Your car should hit highway speeds no problem (OK, the engine RPMS will be high but it should do it). Steering and suspension are the second issue. Every bearing and bushing on your car is suspect (just ask a 88 year old how their joints feel!). I could not believe how much better my car drove after rebuilding the front suspension. To get a feel for how bad it is crawl under the car with a bright light and have someone wiggle the steering wheel. I bet you see lots of movement at the joints long before any actual steering happens. Old tires (especially bias ply tires) also contribute to a crappy, wandering ride. Nathan
  4. Use the timing marks. There should be one for TDC. Or don't worry about it. Just mark where the distributor points and make sure that you don't move the engine again. When you put the distributor back in make sure it points to the same place and you are good. Nathan
  5. No, it was totally arbitrary. Corrosion is the same either way. A circuit is a circuit and the electrons can be set up to flow either way. In the 6V days both + and - ground were used but eventually most makes settled on + ground just by convention. When the 12V standard was adopted (I think it was an SAE standard, but I am not sure) - ground was firmly decided upon. Probably just to be different from the old convention but I am just guessing there. The point is that most 6V accessories were in fact positive ground. Many 6V radios of the era work either way. So by going neg ground you are both assuming all the problems of the conversion and making adding accessories more difficult. Many very smart engineers designed and built your car and it worked just fine for almost 80 years. Why screw with it?
  6. Why negative ground? For the alternator? If so just order a negative ground alternator. They come both ways.
  7. All the partial flow oil filters functioned the same and back in the day it was common for people to retrofit aftermarket filter kits to cars. Even the kits Stude sold were probably dealer-installed. I have seen both Fram and AC filter kits on Studes. So unless you really want showroom-level originality I think what you have is fine. NAPA has the filter elements. Mine actually stocks them in the store for all the old tractors around here. Nathan
  8. If you are doing a concourse restoration you probably want to get it ceramic coated. If like me you just want it to look nice and be a driver you can use any high-temperature paint. I used Eastwood's manifold paint. It was easy to apply and looks nice. After 4-5 years the manifold started to rust through the coating in spots but I just touch up with a q-tip.
  9. There was no bushing on the frame rail side and I had significant wear too. At least your lever is welded on the operating shaft. Mine is pressed or stamped in place and looks like it could work loose. I am careful to keep the new shaft lubricated. I thought about putting a bushing in the frame but it took 70 years to wear out the first time I so just relaxed about it. On my car #20 is a felt donut. I just take the cap off every couple years and soak that felt in oil. if yours is bad or missing I think SI still has them.
  10. This picture is from when I replaced the clutch operating shaft. Years of grease monkeys NOT lubricating it wore out the old one. I am out of ideas about that spring. Hopefully someone else on here has a Commander or President and can post a picture. It can't be all that complicated.
  11. That seems very odd to me. Your linkage is quite different from my Champion but the pedal casting looks similar. Which means that spring where shown would be pulling the pedal DOWN not UP. On the Champion the spring runs from the end of the shaft (18) forward to the frame. Is it possible the spring hooks around the end of the turnbuckle shaft where (23) where it pokes through the pedal? Maybe with a washer under the cotter pin to keep it secure? I just looked at the parts book diagram for my car and maybe the diagram is just being misleading. It shows my spring in an odd place too that has nothing to do with where it actually attaches. Notice the hole in the end of the lever on the clutch rod where the spring attaches does not even appear in the diagram and the spring is just sitting over by the pedal and turnbuckle.
  12. There is is nothing "illegal" about 12V positive ground but if your reason for converting is cheaper, more modern parts then you will not find any for 12V positive ground. Most of the old electro-mechanical systems on cars did not care about polarity but modern electronics sure do.
  13. I know people like converting to 12V but properly maintained 6V systems work just fine. What problem are you trying to solve with the center tap battery?
  14. Looks really nice. I see it has the rare padded roof option
  15. That looks really nice. What was the original roof material? It looks like canvas treated with something in the pictures. if so it must be nasty stuff to have lasted that long!