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nvonada

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About nvonada

  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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  1. Never know until you ask. My local NAPA had a fuel pump and wheel cylinders for my car in stock. At least 15 years means the fuel pump is probably alcohol safe.
  2. I am almost certain you could never get the Commander brakes on a Champion. Diff and front spindles are very different. However, Turner was working on a disc brake kit for the prewar Champion. I saw a car at the Mansfield meet with it installed. That might get you better brakes and cut your problem in half. NOS shoes show up on e-bay from time to time, I got a set a few years ago. If they are bonded assume they are only good for cores.. Nathan
  3. Sorry, I rebuilt mine because it was leaking but I have always had it adjusted to do nothing (not many hills around here!). I can't remember if pressing the brake turns it clockwise or counterclockwise, but I would try jacking up the front of the car, disconnecting the rod, have someone press the brake, and rotate lever as far as it goes. If the brakes do not hold when you release the brake pedal the HH is not working. Otherwise, it is an adjustment issue. Nathan
  4. Nice. Props for using Studebaker truck to tow it home...
  5. Not sure about the President, but on my Champion the fuel level in the tank when full is above the fuel pump level. If you have any sort of leak (or disconnect the fuel line from the pump) it will "self adjust" by leaking gas anywhere. Ask me how I know... Anyway, anything leaking up front could show up if you have a full tank, jack up the rear, or park on a hill. I have seen NOS tranny mounts on e-bay from time to time and if you check with our wonderful vendors you might get lucky. Of course, even a NOS mount has rubber 50 or more years old on it... Nathan
  6. I have never seen anything like that. I would love to see what that looks like. I have probably bought 8 NOS shocks for mine to get 4 good ones and now one is leaking. Was there an accessory part number for that? Thanks, Nathan
  7. Nice progress! NAPA does stock GL-1 gear lube, but they might not know it. Ask for part number 65-201 for a gallon container. When you have the tank out you may want to flush the fuel line as well. I got a LOT of gunk out of mine just hosing carb cleaner in the line and blowing it out with compressed air. If you tank (or line) rust, you will get a lot of rust in the sediment bowl of the fuel pump. Nathan
  8. This is what was in my pan after 60+ years of non-detergent oil: After cleaning it up I have run detergent oil ever since. Being able to run multi-weight oil is nice, it does not turn to tar when it gets cold. Nathan
  9. Springs, adjusters, wheel cylinders, and drums were the same for all 39-46 Champions. 4G and 5G (42-46) list a different part number for the shoes. I have no idea what changed. Since all the hardware is the same, I imagine they are interchangeable. Nathan
  10. Do you have the adjusters and bottom anchor in there? I think the normal vendors have the springs and the little squeeze clips that hold the shoes on. I am not sure about the larger c-clip that holds the shoes on at the bottom. Turner Brakes has (or had, it is not on the web site) a disc brake conversion for the front. If your front hubs or drums are questionable this would probably be a lot cheaper than buying the parts. Nathan
  11. These manuals are not nearly as detailed as later manuals. They simply don't cover things that an experienced mechanic in 1939 should know. If you find an old Motors or Chilton's manual those will fill some of the gaps. And the body and chassis parts books are invaluable.
  12. There is a chance the rubber retaining blocks will not survive. Mine were brick-hard. Pictures here: Steering Wheel | 1941 Studebaker Champion (vonadatech.com)
  13. Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. I think the fade up near the button is actually how they were made at some point. Mine are both that way but I have also seen solid red ones. Might have depended on the supplier or maybe when they were made. There is a really solid market for these, I can't give you a price but put them on e-bay and you will get bids. If the bezels are not pitted I am certainly interested. If you list them or come up with a prices please let us know and I will take a look. I just went and did a search. Looks like several have sold on e-bay recently: 1941 studebaker tail lights: Search Result | eBay NOS Lenses sold for $400 a pair! Nathan
  14. Another thing to keep in mind was that back when these were daily drivers every gas station had a mechanic who knew how to fix them. That will be you now so honestly assess your skills. I don't want to offend but the fact that you are asking these questions gives me pause. Is it really that big a deal to also have a semi-modern beater and keep the Stude just for fun?
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