nvonada

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About nvonada

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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    http://stude.vonadatech.com

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  • Location:
    Delaware, OH
  1. Every wire in your pictures has electrical tape wrapped around it. That does not mean the wiring is bad or incorrect. But it does mean it was messed with by someone. I would NOT leave the battery connected until you get the wiring sorted. That is a super cool car and it would be a shame if it burned up. For testing you should get a multimeter and learn to use it. It is not hard to use or expensive. Even a test light would be big help. Electric work is daunting at first but once you learn a few basic rules and concepts it is not that complicated. Nathan
  2. Fan Belt for a 1929 Dictator Six

    If you want a more authentic look in a modern belt get a tractor or lawn mower belt. NAPA or Tractor Supply are good sources. They look more like the old belts and are less likely to have teeth. Nathan
  3. I hit that too when I was troubleshooting my voltage regulator. The rapid pulsing of the regulator threw my digital meter for a loop. However you can check voltage at the battery. The battery serves as a buffer and smooths things out. If you have a dwell meter they usually have a voltmeter mode. My old one died so I bought this one for a whopping $21. Works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YUUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Nathan
  4. 1914 SC-4, An Introduction and a Request

    I think that is an excellent solution. These are not high-efficiency pumps so those pits in the casting will be fine. I kept a 1973 Johnson outboard running for decades and those impellers do get hard and fail over 10 years or so. One consideration is that outboards are always pumping cold water. Running at engine temperature all the time might deteriorate the impeller faster. Nathan
  5. 1934 commander

    Easiest valve adjustment you will ever do . Looking good.
  6. Vintage Wire

    Nothing too toxic bug a dust mask might be a wise precaution. The insulation is (was?) cotton or maybe jute thread woven around the wire then sealed with some varnish. That dust is a combination of decomposed thread, varnish dust, and probably dried mouse pee. Yum!
  7. Another 1940 champion question

    I think the business coupe and 2/4 door sedans did the jack differently. My coupe is missing a jack but there is a canvas strap on the floor just under the latch handle that I think was intended to hold it. It holds my fire extinguisher now Is this the light you are talking about? I used to have a spare but sold it several years back. They show up on e-Pay now and again.
  8. Steering, brakes, and handling are going to be terrible compared to any modern car. The question is are they terrible compared to 88 years ago? Your local auto parts store will have "cable lube" which is just light oil with graphite in it. It works great but will stain so be careful around your interior. On both my old cars the speedometer cable followed the same sequence. The speedometer was bouncy, so I pulled the cable, cleaned it and lubed it. Everything seemed OK for a while then the cables broke. Once replaced everything has been good since. My speedometer has a lubrication port above where the cable attaches. I don't know if you have one but if you do it probably has not been lubed since the car was new. If you have one a couple drops of light oil in there work wonders. Nathan
  9. It sounds like you are making progress. In another thread you mentioned fuel pump issues. Low fuel pressure would possibly cause starving for gas at higher speeds. I think your car would have a diaphragm-style fuel pump. If so the rubber in there is probably older than dirt and may not be ethanol safe. Are pumps still available? I was shocked when the local NAPA had one in stock for my car. Maybe you will get lucky. Nathan
  10. I don't have any experience with the really old cars but on my "newer" car burned points are one of two things: Voltage at the coil. There should a ballast resistor to lower the voltage to your coil. When you crank the engine the voltage of your system drops. So your coil is actually designed to put out as much as the points can handle while then engine is cranking. This means that when the engine is running you normally would be running way too high a voltage. The ballast resistor solves this problem. When the engine is running the power for the coil should go through the ballast resistor. A second wire should bypass the ballast resistor only when the engine is cranking. If someone removed or bypassed your ballast resistor then that is probably the problem. That big condenser capacitor on your points. I am a little fuzzy on why this is called a condenser but its job is to absorb big spikes when the points close and open. These fail and you get sparking across the points which will quickly damage them. There is certainly a reason why we got away from the coil/points ignition system. When I depended on cars with points for daily transportation I kept a complete set of points, condenser, cap, rotor, and screwdriver in my car at all times and used them more than once. Nathan
  11. Moe is right. Nothing you have said so far says "pull the head". You have fuel or ignition problems to sort out first. The fact that it runs smooth in certain conditions means you have at least a marginally healthy engine.
  12. You probably can. But if your current carb is not leaking why introduce another variable in your mix?
  13. keninman, It sounds like you certainly are chasing two separate problems. So I have two separate thoughts: First you are not developing anything near full power. I doubt very much it is a mechanical problem. It certainly feels like a carb problem but don't rule out ignition. For instance your vacuum advance could be contributing. For the carb check carefully for vacuum leaks. If it is leaking and someone adjusted the carb to run OK at idle with a big air leak then it will probably be super lean as the throttle opens. Your car should hit highway speeds no problem (OK, the engine RPMS will be high but it should do it). Steering and suspension are the second issue. Every bearing and bushing on your car is suspect (just ask a 88 year old how their joints feel!). I could not believe how much better my car drove after rebuilding the front suspension. To get a feel for how bad it is crawl under the car with a bright light and have someone wiggle the steering wheel. I bet you see lots of movement at the joints long before any actual steering happens. Old tires (especially bias ply tires) also contribute to a crappy, wandering ride. Nathan
  14. 36 Dictator Coupe 3A distributor

    Use the timing marks. There should be one for TDC. Or don't worry about it. Just mark where the distributor points and make sure that you don't move the engine again. When you put the distributor back in make sure it points to the same place and you are good. Nathan
  15. 12v -6v battery

    No, it was totally arbitrary. Corrosion is the same either way. A circuit is a circuit and the electrons can be set up to flow either way. In the 6V days both + and - ground were used but eventually most makes settled on + ground just by convention. When the 12V standard was adopted (I think it was an SAE standard, but I am not sure) - ground was firmly decided upon. Probably just to be different from the old convention but I am just guessing there. The point is that most 6V accessories were in fact positive ground. Many 6V radios of the era work either way. So by going neg ground you are both assuming all the problems of the conversion and making adding accessories more difficult. Many very smart engineers designed and built your car and it worked just fine for almost 80 years. Why screw with it?