FLYER15015

X2 on that! It's been way too long. Mike in Colorado

John, If you have "several" of the short tubes, cut an inch out of one and weld it to another to get your length. Easy peasy. My '40 had low oil pressure and I fixed it by emorying the bottom plate like so with 60 grit paper. The dark points were leaking. I took it down to where these were gone, and a THIN layer of RTV around the edge. I also put a 3/8" nut behind the pressure relief spring, which is an old trick we used in the '60's at the car dealership I used to work at to raise the pressure. She now runs 40# at cruising speeds and 20 at idle when hot. Mike in Colorado

Looks like the votes are in. 8 no's by my count and no yeses. I'm not going to do it. Don't need the extra "bling". Thanks all, your the best.......... Mike in Colorado

I've noticed a lot of Fords in the 20's-30's in the local shows have aluminum step plates screwed to their running boards. Some with logo's and some with a plain cross hatch pattern cast in. Some with 2 per side and some with 1 for the front door. I've never seen these step pads on any of the 20's - 30's Chrysler cars. Question is, did Chrysler / Imperial owners back then add these? Would adding them now be tacky? A hole once drilled cannot be undone. Mike in Colorado

My '31 CG may not be the exact shade, but I think it is close. Yes, it's a real redhead. Mike in Colorado

I put an electric fuel pump and a LARGE clear filter back by the tank on our '40 LTD the first week we owned it. Also rebuilt the mechanical pump with an ethanol resistant diaphragm from "Bob's". Mine sits all week and then goes out on weekends for our drives, and of course nothing is level in Colorado and the air is quite thin @ 8500'. So, the pump gets used on those long uphill pulls, as vapor lock is a way of life out here. Little toggle under the dash is barely noticeable. Mike in Colorado PS; I did reroute the fuel line from the mechanical pump up along the pass side inner fender well and over the valve cover close to the firewall and into the carb. The copper line is now covered with heater hose from the pump to the carb.

I painted our 24' car hauler with regular outside enamel house paint with some blasting sand included. Since mine is vehicle specific, I added guide rails of 2 x 4 split in half, as the running boards on the Buick only clear the wheel wells by about 3- 4" on each side. Note the stops in place so the trailer is properly balanced. I stapled some cardboard down as a catch mat for oil drips. I built my own escape door on the drivers side. An easy DIY. Now I can either drive her in or use the wireless winch and open the drivers door wide to exit the car / trailer. Mike in Colorado

350 crate motor? I guess I should have said 425 nailhead. At least it would still be a Buick. My bad............... Mike in Colorado

Correction, The Buick still wears the Martin's. The Imperial wears Denman's. Both sets have new tubes in them. No patches in any tire. Mike in Colorado

To run a '40 Buick Special 60 - 70 MPH you only need 3 things. 350 crate motor, 5 speed gearbox, Ford 9" rear end. Oh, and adapters for the stock rear rims. I guess that's 4. Mike in Colorado

First date with the soon to be Ms. Kept the car 10 years. Kept the Ms 56 years. I miss them both, but her much more. Mike in Colorado

Looks like they would be great for picking up rocks, and chucking them at the car behind. Mike in Colorado

Hey Lamar, Just read this entire thread. Lots of improvements since we visited. Looks really great now! You've been a busy boy! Ever hear from "you know who"? We all could use some new pictures . I'll send you $$$ for the wine. Mike in Colorado

With that fan spinning right behind his right shoulder, I hope he does not lean back ! But at least the gas tank is streamlined. Another, "what were they thinking ?" Mike in Colorado