Lisa P

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About Lisa P

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 12/16/1968


  • Biography
    I enjoy working on old cars as a challenge to myself and to save them from the salvage yard.
  1. Thanks! When I see you again, I'll remember ya'. I am glad that you enjoyed the visit to my shop. I hope someday I can get a 4 post lift in order to make life easier for myself and others. The Pontiac is certainly a joy compared to the cars I'm usually saving!
  2. Gary, I do have a new heavy gauge positive cable attached to a nice clean connection, as well as a heavy braided negative cable attached to the block. I did clean the paint off the block where it is attached. I also have a "new" 6 volt battery but it had been on a shelf for a while so it is currently on the trickle charger. The good news today is that with the 12V battery, I was able to get the vehicle to start and run. I didn't let it run long (maybe 5 seconds) because I am not sure what the proper break in procedure of a rebuilt engine should be. Between the great advice I have received here, and my mechanic mentor that returns from vacation in a couple more weeks, we might have a smooth running vehicle by summer! Of course it will be on to the body work then.. Todd C, thanks for all of the great information! I am now a member of the POCI, and hope to be an Early Times Chapter member soon so maybe we will meet someday. I am grateful for the information that your friend has shared on the web, it will be very useful!
  3. Good news! We have oil pressure around 20 lbs. when cranking, bad news is that I don't have spark. I have checked the timing and it seems the distributor and rotor are installed correctly. There is power to the positive side of the coil when the key is on, but cannot seem to find any power in the distributor with the key on. And I purchased one of the long 6 volt batteries and a new coil and have installed them but the battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the engine over. It reads 6.21 volts with a multimeter. I don't give up without a fight, so maybe more on this tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.
  4. Thanks for the reply Bloo. How long should it take when cranking for oil pressure to build? I have read about people putting grease or Vaseline in the oil pump to help prime it while others say it isn't necessary. Any opinions on packing the pump?
  5. Hello again! I have wired the car for first time starting and would like to hear any insight you all may have regarding priming the engine with oil and connecting (plumbing) the oil pressure gauge. I believe that the oil pressure gauge gets plumbed into one of the oil galleys on the passenger side of the block but am not sure if it should be in front of, or behind the oil pump. Also, the engine was rebuilt several years ago and has never been started, so should I add zinc to the oil? Thanks in advance for your insight.
  6. Chris, that is one gorgeous '40 Torpedo! I have never seen one out and about, but sadly you just don't see many older cars driven these days. The 1950 that you took the photo of sounds nice as well, these are really very nice cars. I am pretty happy to have finally found one for myself!
  7. I am in need of a tube and dipstick for my 1951 Pontiac project. It is the 8 cylinder motor. Please let me know if you have one available, thanks.
  8. Chris, thanks so much for the photos! I think I have found the answer in that small spring between the end of the throttle linkage/rod and the bracket that holds it to the firewall. If I had a spring like this on each end, it could hold the linkage centered between the two brackets that are bolted to the firewall. Or as you suggested, I could take the linkage out to see if it is bent in any way. It appears that I need to look for a throttle return spring in my totes full of parts as well. I am relieved that so far my set up looks correct. Thanks again for your time, I really appreciate it! Oh, and your car looks very clean!
  9. How about, where in the world does the oil pressure gauge plumb into? And, the photo of the motor is just to let you all know what I'm working with I have worked with old cars before, including a 1955 Willys truck, 1950 Desoto, 1959 Desoto, 1948 Kaiser, 1931 Franklin and a 1956 Imperial. This is the only "basket case" car that I have dealt with but I love a good challenge. Thanks again in advance for your time, I do appreciate it!
  10. Thanks Chris! This is the bracket in question. Perhaps when the linkage is all connected, it doesn't move from side to side as much? I also have other questions regarding the Pontiac if you're willing to help...
  11. Thanks to Mr. John Harvey, a friend of mine, I have acquired a '51 Chieftain 4 door sedan that is almost completely disassembled. I have the shop manual, the body and frame manual issued 1961, and a Chiltons but cannot find a good photograph or diagram of the throttle rod/linkage that is mounted with brackets bolted to the firewall. My problem is that when the linkage is installed in the brackets, it appears the brackets are either too far apart or the linkage is too short. With a little push to either side, the linkage falls out of the brackets. What might I be missing? Is it possible that the linkage was bent thus making it shorter? If anyone has a good photo of this setup, I would be thrilled to see it. Thanks in advance for your time!
  12. 1931 With Stromberg U-3 Runs Too Rich

    Bill, I just installed the carburetor on the Franklin and am happy to say that the difference is amazing. Where there had been stumbling, loping and black smoke I now have a smooth and responsive engine. I still have to check the float level, but thanks to Paul, the car now runs as it should.
  13. Another issue discovered with the Franklin was the propensity for the starter to whirr, whizz, zing and grind on occasion. I found that the starter would fail at times to turn the engine but could be persuaded to by depressing the button more than once. One fine day when the starter button was depressed, the gentle whirr ended in a loud gnashing of something gone awry. Upon examination by myself and my mentor, he suggested that something wasn't right with the bendix. Pulling the starter revealed that the bendix had a couple of problems. First, the spring had been torqued and the locating tabs no longer were on the same plane. Second, the woodruff key on the shaft had been worn flush with the shaft thus allowing the shaft to spin but not engaging so that the engine would turn over. And third, one of the screws that locates the spring on the shaft had broken off. Luckily, parts were available and I was able to rebuild the bendix without having to send the starter out. What a relief! It was reinstalled in the Franklin and is working wonderfully. (If any of my descriptions or names are confusing, bear with me as I am learning all this on the fly).
  14. '59 Firedome 4dr questions

    Wow, time sure flies when you're having fun! In case you all were still interested, the Desoto is running and on the road now. The tailpan was made and replaced by myself. It isn't perfect, but works well from 20'. The trunk floor and trunk extensions were not too bad to fabricate and replace. In fact, the worst part was trying to get the trunk latch catch welded up in the right place while sitting in the trunk with the lid closed! I ordered a headliner and installed it so the interior is coming along. The seats still need to be covered and a wheel or wheel cover needs to be picked but what a fun car to drive! I'll be installing a disc brake conversion in the front in a few weeks. Yes, I know that the factory brakes can work very well, but the adjusting cams on mine seem to move by themselves so that at times, the brakes are dragging so much they are smoking. In order to alleviate any tinker time that takes away from driving time, the front drums are outta here.
  15. 1931 With Stromberg U-3 Runs Too Rich

    Update from Paul regarding the Stromberg. He has found no less than 17 things wrong with the carb. As Tom suspected, the economizer was totally wrong. The original had been removed and replaced with an oversized tube. Also, the main discharge jet was never removed and cleaned. These are only some of the items found by Paul. His knowledge of these carburetors far surpasses that of the past rebuilders! Here is Paul's list, and he cautions that we cannot be certain who is responsible for the items that were wrong: 1. Throttle return spring was too short and fastened in the wrong position. It should be a longer spring (long-tailed NAPA throttle return spring close to original) that goes from the motor side throttle lever arm, back and hooks into a 1/8 inch hole in the top edge of the sheet metal holder of the felt dust seal that the brake pedal rod goes through on the fire wall. See picture attached. 2. Economizer syringe not original and way too over-sized to seal around the econo piston. 3. Spring cup missing from top of econo piston. 4. Sealing washers missing from top of econo syringe - inside and out - and bottom of econo piston. Replaced entire economizer syringe with a rebuilt one. 5. Economizer valve and seat faces eroded and couldn’t seal fuel leakage. Lapped faces to get proper seal. 6. Econo sleeve nut loose with screw slot chewed up. 7. Bowl gasket made out of exhaust manifold material. Made new one with correct Velmoid gasket material. 8. Three bowl screws missing lock washers. Installed new lock washers. 9. Original pot metal venturi still in place, showing usual cracking/chipping of upper edge. Replaced with aluminum reproduction. 10. Float level low and float pin bent. Float tested good for no leaks. Replaced pin. 11. Float needle tip eroded and couldn’t seal. Reground tip to seal properly. 12. Main discharge jet never removed and cleaned. Did so and installed new gasket. 13. Float level low. Re-set to approximate 9/16 inch. 14. Accelerator bell squashed out of round. Re-shaped. 15. Accelerator valve screw slot chewed up. Valve was removed and damaged by using pliers. Filed off burrs and lapped valve faces to seal properly. 16. High speed air bleed in wrong hole (lower). Was soldered shut. Being that it was below float level, to prevent fuel leakage ? Removed and installed in upper hole after drilling out incorrect screw plug in upper hole. Made new screw plug for lower hole. 17. Copper spark plug washer used for fuel inlet fitting seat gasket – over pieces of stuck-on original gasket. Cleaned off old gasket pieces and taped a new gasket to seat. 18. On Strombergs of this era the cast iron parts were paint gloss black, with cadmium plated steel parts – like second picture attached. Not all black oxide finish. Bill, did you sort out your Franklin/Carter carb? Lisa