redbaron1930

Just an update on this, as it turns out the switch that is in the car now is a makeshift switch that used the original ammeter but 4 small commercial push pull switches. I have a 1917 parts car that has the original switch as shown in the delco manual that Brian shared. I will use this switch and restore the car to its original wiring as shown in the schematics.........Mystery Solved! Thanks to all for all your help! Andy

Interesting point! The schematic showes separate connections to the ignition switch, so the circuit between the coil and gen. is broken when the switch is opened. This begs the question, is something wrong with my ignition switch or was it changed at some point to one with only one contact. More investigation needed!

So I did a bit more homework, and what was put in was a GM headlight relay (probably used in the 40"s-50's). I was wired to the generator circuit to be closed when the ignition switch was turned on. My guess is it is not rated for the proper current because a copper bar was put in place of the fuse. So most likely I will do away with it and return the wiring to original configuration.

Brian; Thanks you for delco manual. I did have have a wiring diagram but this manual contains alot more information. I will have to look closer at the switch panel to see if the circuit breaker is in there. At this point it looks like the relay was added by someone so that the generator current does not pass through the ignition switch (I'm not sure why they felt this was a problem. Thanks Andy

Wiring diagram shows a circuit breaker protecting the lighting wiring. This is not wired that way, although the label in the back does sat "lights" and not "gen", but it also contains a ground wire not shown in the diagram, so I'm still not sure if it is original or not.

Hi; My 1916 Buick D-45 seems to be wired with some kind of relay (not stock I'm sure) which connects the generator circuit to the ampmeter (opposite the battery wire) when the ignition switch is turned on. From looking at wiring diagrams it appears that Buick connected the generator output directly to the ignition switch. I understand the need to disconnect the generator output when the car is off. So it seems to me that the purpose of putting this relay in would be to stop all the generator current from going through the ignition switch. I have to rewire the car and would like to bring it back to original. My question is, is there an issue with the original way Buick did it by running the generator output through the ignition switch, or is it OK? Also what is the wire gauge for the generator and battery wires? Thanks Andy

Morgan; Very interesting! Unfortunately my 1917 rods must be the later version, If my memory serves me the engine number was in the 220 thousands range.

I am rebuilding the engine on my 1916 Buick D-45 and would like to try and locate another connecting rod. One of mine has stripped threads on the wrist pin pinch bolt threads.I have rods for a 1917 but they are subtly different and won't work in this application. If anyone knows where I might locate another it would be greatly appreciated as is all help from this forum. Thanks Andy

I put almost 5000 additional miles on it, guess I shouldn't complain too much!

Thanks! At this point I am suspicious of a main bearing problem but my guess it this is a well worn engine and I'll be doing a complete rebuild. When I got the car 14 years ago speedometer said almost 40,000 (a lot of miles for this vintage!)

Hi; After 10 years of use and never having had the engine apart (I don't know when of if it was ever worked on). The engine on my 1916 buick is making a worrisome noise. It is not a characteristic knock but sounds more like a low dull rattle deep within the motor (seems like in the middle). It is worse under load, but can be heard intermittently at idle. I am resigned to taking it apart but what was wondering if anyone had encountered a similar noise and can give advice as to what to look for? As always .Thanks! Andy

That was my biggest fear, breaking an axle or shearing a pinion keyway!

So, last night I used a squirt bottle and with the clutch released just enough that I could turn it by hand, applied the oil to the inside (forward edge) of the cone. rotated it a few times by hand then engaged the clutch and applied just a bit more. I started the car pressed on the clutch and let centrifugal force do the rest. It worked well and it now works like it did when the leather was first replaced and showed no signs of slipping. Thank you Mark and Bloo for the practical experience and suggestions! (another satisfied customer)! Andy

Sounds like something like this is the only option, I will add a little at a time and try it. I don't think it can hurt unless I add too much!.........Thanks

Mark is your '15 buick clutch inside a bell housing? This weekend I tried this method, It works on my 1910 EMF (flywheel is exposed) however I cannot do it in the 1916 Buick because the flange on the housing is smaller than the dia of the clutch. The only thing I can think of at this point is to put a table spoon or so of Neatsfoot oil on the bottom inside of the clutch and flywheel (with it engaged) then release it just enough to spin it by hand and try to paint it that way? Or am I still missing something ?