buickbonehead

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About buickbonehead

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    WOT Grand Poobah
  • Birthday 11/30/1961

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  1. I just got a run of hornbars back from the plater. I have about 12 left. The price is $260+7 shipping to the lower 48. I will ship overseas but buyer will need to pay actual shipping. My plater went up $10 a unit on me so the next run will reflect that increase. If you need one or know someone who needs one let them know. Some buyers only use their OEM bars for shows and use the repop for everyday use. Send me an email and I'll send some pics and details. rickr@notaxcnr.com. Or you can do a search on this forum and find pictures and comments. Rick
  2. It is just a regular roll pin. You can find them at just about any hardware store. You'll just have to experiment with the bending. It would seem you just need to get the bend close then rotate the bent pin until you get the correct distance from the center hole. Obviously use your old steering wheel for a measurement.
  3. Dude!....you are now the board authority on this process. When you bought that wheel did you think it would take you on this wild ride? I know i'm getting some nagging questions answered that I've been wondering about for years. Rick
  4. I've seen three part #'s on hubs. Not sure if the years are correct and not sure why there is no '63. If someone has access to a parts book they can check. 9743696 '65-669743264 '65-66770819 I understand to be '64 I've handled numerous wood wheels and I've seen the straight pin and the bent one. I always thought the bent pin was to make the 64 fit 65-66 or vise versa. Tom's comment makes sense though. I've also seen several with a white plastic inverted cup that I assume slipped down into the steering column. I'm sure I still have one in a box of parts in the closet. Rick
  5. jframe, Let's try OEM horn guts. I'll send you the OEM stuff and let's see if that resolves the problem. These are LOANER parts to try to diagnose the problem.
  6. Schmiddy, I do have a few hornbars but I thought you were waiting on the horncaps to ship them all at once. I'm still working on the horncaps but I don;t have a timetable. You may want to get the hornbar now.
  7. Jframe, I responded to your email earlier but I just saw this post. If your flipping the spring around and the "No-Honk" is following the spring rotation, it sounds like the spring has a coating/residue of some type in a bad spot. I've run into this in the past but couldn't get it to honk at all. It drove me nuts. I had it spread out on the dining room table with a continuity tester trying to get it to work....yeah...it was personal. Clean the underside of the ring with sandpaper and then wipe with alcohol.The area of concern is where the spring contacts the hub...the center. I would also clean where the horn contact touches the spring as well. Hope it helps.
  8. Sorry guys! I've been buried with tax season. Now that it is over I can play a little. I have hornbars in stock and ready to go. I also received an email from my metal guy last Monday with pics of CAD renderings of the horn caps. I gotta think we're close on those but I could be wrong. All I can say is please be patient on the horn caps. Rick
  9. If you've expressed interest on this thread before this post I've got a hornbar reserved for you. Price is still the same $260 + $6 (US) shipping. If you decide you don't want one please let me know so I can keep track of availability. Thanks, Rick
  10. I have 20 hornbars going to the chromer on Friday. About half are spoken for.
  11. You only need three screws to mount the hornbar. Look at the picture in my earlier post. The link for the kit is for a different car but it has most of the parts needed. The two shorter screws are not needed for your application. The largest plastic ring will need to be found elsewhere. If the screws are too short, take the hub to a hardware store and look for the proper length. Also be aware the hub holes may be stripped. You will need all of the parts in the exploded view attached to my earlier post. Rick
  12. If he has the cash in his hand.....then it's not really a "test drive".....it's a "what did I buy" drive.
  13. I'll echo what Jason and Ed said. There are numerous small items specific to the 2x4 that will be missing after a swap from 2x4 to 1x4. Items that come to mind, other than previously mentioned, are the bracket for the kick down switch and the rear A/C bracket. Both are bears to find. I also seem to remember a metal vacuum line coming off the rear passenger corner of the intake that I believe goes to the tranny. Rick