ptt

Is there a source for a replacement clip??? ive had to pull the glovebox out and rig the blend door open to get heat. The clip is broken.

Sometimes its got a normal pedal. Can a failing accumulator cause this??

I used a few 1in peices of velcro strips. the kind with adhesive backing. only problem was when car sat out in the sun it made the adhesive gooey. But I didnt want to use anything more permanant....

I definately wont be buying WALMART anymore.

After replacing my MAF sensor I was wondering what running the engine with a defective MAF unplugged would do to the engine??? Mine seemed to start and idle fine unplugged....

Almost everything I own is OBD1.....I think I loaned it out and it didnt find its way home....

I finally saw some sunlight this morning so I put the recharged battery back in the Coupe and started replacing the oldest sensors beginning with the MAF. That was the culprit. First I unplugged it and it started right up. Plugged it back in and the engine died. Tried to clean the old MAF with MAF SENSOR SPRAY CLEANER and let it dry for a half hour inside while I went in to warm up. No dice. Engine would catch but I had to pump the pedal to keep it running. It wouldnt idle at all. Put new MAF in and it started right up immeadiately. I checked my records and the Ignition Module and Magnovox Coils are less than 500 miles old. I let the engine run up to operating temp and took a short drive. All appears to be back to normal. Thanks to all for your replies!

I was wondering what is the minimum voltage needed to start the engine? My low battery was not starting the car at 11.62v...

I guess the old adage about getting what you pay for stands true! The battery is a WALLY-WORLD EVERSTART...but it has out lasted the warranty by 6 months. I brought it in and charged it overnight and it came back to life. Probably go bad this Summer in the heat.

Its been a deep freeze here in Missouri for the past week! I havent started the Coupe for that long as Ive been hibernating. Warmed up to 15F yesterday so I tried to start it...no dice. Put the boosterbox on it and promptly ran that down. The display was lit up so I put the DVM to the battery and it only read 11.36V. It would act like it wanted to catch but wouldnt. The last time it did this {3 years ago) it was the coils. This car has always started immeadiately by just touching the ignition. It still has the MAGNOVOX coil and I do have a new unit in stock. Its not going to get above 15F for the next week tho....

My 1990 coupe only has two relays on the firewall.

I dont think its ever had this issue while idling. Im going to hook the fp gauge back up this afternoon and let it idle and see if I can reproduce the sputtering and dieing.

Since I've have had this 1990 coupe I've never replaced the O-sensor. Going on 13 years now owning it. Its surely about time to either replace or clean just about every one of the sensors. I'd be doing whats considered "SHOTGUNNING" it with new parts but its probably time to as I used it as a Winter time daily driver. I will be checking its performance as each sensor is replaced to see which one improves performance. I have misplaced or lost my only OBD-1 scan tool and cant seem to find a replacement online thats priced close to reasonable. I do have an AUTOSCAN OBD-2 SCANNER but it only works on 1995-2002 OBD-2 systems.

Ive forgotten where the fuel pump relay is offhand? Underhood or side of the console?

It seems to sputter with tach going to zero. I havent noticed if the speedometer does anything but go on reading zero because Im always at a full stop. It never stops running while under way...yet. Sometimes it will restart right off...other times it takes a few tries before it will catch and start. There must be some codes stored as it doesnt show "No ECM Codes". Would a fuel filter issue be a possibility? It isnt an issue thats consistant but seems to happen after warmed to operating temperature.

Fuel pressure good.

I got my 1990 convertible from a insurance exec from Alaska. It had a perfectly operational SONY PALMCORDER w/charger and spare battery in the driverside behind the seat storage compartment. That was in 2010. Still have it and it still work fine!

My experience with ROCKAUTO was for a $4.99 part that had a $7.99 shipping charge. I sat on my porch all afternoon but nothing was delivered. I found out later that the part was said to be undeliverable that day and forwarded back to ROCKAUTO. I was refunded the $4.99 for the returned part but not refunded for the $7.99 shipping charge!!! I feel the $7.99 shipping charge was gouging for a $4.99 part. Not sure I will be doing business with them again.....

Ive been having an intermittant stalling problem lately. Usually restarts but sometimes stalls again after trying restarting a few times. Its been about 1K miles since coils and ICU were replaced. This problem has happened a few times now and theres no definate pattern to it happening. Pulling codes on this car is not very easy as the LED function is spotty and unreadable. Its died on me at stop lights and stop signs and has always restarted but usually powerless and then catches and will run until coming to another stop sign or stop light then maybe it will want to stall again. Ocassionally it will run fine for awhile afterwards stalling. Maybe I should clean the IAC or spray the MAF with electrical contact spray? Thoughts?

This vehicle was manufactured by FORD of Australia. It is built on the MAZDA chassis and driveline. Engine is the 1.6L inline 4cyl. It came wirh 5sp and auto tranmissions. It was rebadged as a MERCURY CAPRI when imported to the USA. Any CAPRI owners on board with parts and knowledge?

Figured it out....#10 20Afuse fixed fog and parking lights. But now my fog lights stay on until I turn ignition off. Pressing the fog button doesn't do anything. I guess it's the 30 year old daytime running lights????😲

The headlights work. I have nothing happening at all when I press the PARKING button. Im going out to check the passenger side fuse panel. Which position relay am I looking for?

My fog lights just started not working. I crawled under and checked both sides and the fairly new (within past year) #881 bulbs appear intact as far as the filiments. What fuse would control them? The diagram on the back of the fuse box panel doesnt show a fog light fuse position. So Im assuming it shares the fuse with some other assessory.....

Went out this morning and the car started like nothing was ever wrong!!! It idled up to operating temp just fine. Didnt miss a beat! Maybe it was a bit of contaminant in bottom of tank. I had added about 4oz of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL to the fuel tank and 4oz to the oil a few days ago and the car sat for 4 days without driving it. I think the MMO that I poured in the gas tank may have slugged the fuel strainer sock and stalled the engine. I recall that happened a few years ago. Ive used MMO for years in my fuel and oil successfully.

The car died this evening coming to a stop at a red light. Restarted and got jome to the driveway and sputtered and died. Then it wouldnt restart. To dark by then to putz with it. I believe this has happened once before but I dont recall if it was this car or the 1990 convertible. I cant remember if it was remedied by new coils or a MAF sensor but it was one or the other. Im going to start in the morning by checking codes but I think this car is the one that has a problem with the letters and numbers fully illuminating on the display. I have a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure to so I will be looking at that also. I was just wondering if the way it was acting if it sounds like a specific issue to anyone. Thanks.