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About ptt

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/04/1950

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  • Location:
    Independence, Missouri
  • Interests:
    Things that go zoom-zoom.
  1. I'm getting ready to recharge my previously converted to r134a 1990 AC system and have the green set of O-rings for the job. My question is do these green O-rings require some silicon on them when installed? I recall doing that in the past but I'm not sure it was with green O-rings or even with r134a refridgerant.. I think the r134a refridgerant is smaller sized moleculer-wise and whether or not that would require the silicone to achieve a better seal at the O-rings may be the case.
  2. I have cracked AC aluminum tubing where it comes off the compressor itself and the hoses start to go to the accumulator thus losing all the r134a refridgerant. I have acquired everything to fix the problem. The system worked fine for a couple of Summer seasons and had been converted to r134a by the previous owner. I'm wondering what high and low pressures I should look for when I recharge the system. Ive heard that the r134a conversion in the Reatta AC system only requires approximately 80% of the original R-12 pressures. Like possibly HIGH side 180 and LOW side 40 maybe??? I'm considering using ENVIROSAFE-12 which requires even lower system pressures which would put even less strain pressurewise on the system.
  3. It seems like my convertible has acquired gremlins over the winter in both the trunk and tonneau release mechanisms. I posted prior to this post about the trunk release problem now I'm having to open the tonneau by using the levers manually after pulling the lever to release the rear of the top. Sliding the tonneau release button up doesn't work. Isnt this supposed to activate a solenoid to pop the tonneau up? It doesn't click at all. Would this be controlled by a fuse?
  4. Using Barneys pic as reference, it appears my horizontal WIRE is not in the horizontal position but below the metal tab when trunk is open. I will try putting the WIRE back in the same horizontal position as the pic and see if it works. Thanks all.
  5. My convertible trunk will CLICK when the release button is pushed but will not open. Any thoughts appreciated.
  6. Getting the droptop tweeked for summer and its amazing how many small problems you come across when you finally have the time to tinker. My buttons for the trunk and gas door solinoids just stopped working. Is there a shared fuse that operates them. Or a ground?
  7. My power windows in both the coupe and convertible have stopped going down at about the 1/3rd down position and doing the ratcheting noise. They will go back up to close tho. Sounds like something has stripped or something?
  8. The exterior handle on my driverside door has broken on the right-hand side. It appears to be cheaply made of pot-metal. Is there another GM vehical model that uses the same simple design that would interchange?
  9. It was a Westlake Hardware store that wanted $75 for a key. Sounded like something Id get quoted at a Dealership. I dealt with a young kid that didn't really act like he knew cat poo from a candy kiss. His boss was not in the store. Probably had a scam going on with the cashier or something. I'm going to seek another location. I haven't checked the resistors in my three Reatta keys so this is a good wake up to get that taken care of. I guess measuring the key chips with a DVM is on my list first thing tomorrow. Thanks everyone!!!
  10. Whats the going price to get a Reatta VATS key duplicated?
  11. I see Reattas regularly around the KCMO area.
  12. Its listed on the Kansas City Craigslist. Cheap for a ragtop?
  13. Theyre about $75 around here.
  14. Is it possible to swap the VATS chip out of one key to another? Arent they just pressed in?
  15. Ive finally gotten time to get the '90 Convertibles steering column (Thanks JIM FINN once again!!!!!) changed out but fighting with the pinchbolt where the column goes thru the firewall. It got very hard to tighten about 3/4ths way back into the collar. Also came upon what I think is the after market wiring splice job for the aftermarket AM/FM/CD or at least it appears to trace back up to the upper center of the console where the radio is. I havent gotten to the point of plugging in the column harness to the dash harness yet. The under dash labor has given me very sore ribs from working upside down and either bent backwards over seat and/or the doorsill!!! I believe Id have been better off removing the drivers seat for this job. At least I can get that replacement horn button installed thats been sitting in the glovebox for years!!! I assuming that plugging the harnesses back in is all thats left and of course the AIRBAG.....any special concern with that??? Battery will remain disconnected until the very last proceedure I believe.