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About ptt

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/04/1950

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  • Location:
    Independence, Missouri
  • Interests:
    Things that go zoom-zoom.
  1. I am about to tackle the crank position sensor on my 90 coupe. I have replaced the harmonic balancer on my 90 convertible a year ago when it started chattering. Unfortunately I can only find my 1988 FSM and it doesn't refer to the bracket that shields the sensor. It appears to support the little damper shock on that side of the engine. I don't recall there being any issue with removing this bracket to get the HB off of the 90 convertible. Will there be a bolt alignment issue when putting the bracket back onto the block (two bolts)? Also, as I recall I used an electric impact gun to get the crankshaft bolt out. I hope that's OK..... Thanks.
  2. Put the wire up on the little metal tab but it didn't work. Ive been releasing the rear of the top and manually popping the hard tonneau cover to access the little orange emergency release lever with a long wooden handled squeegie while having my umbrella propped up under the lip of the trunk. Also...replaced the #2 BODY fuse that was blown. Still doesn't pop the trunk up enough. I'm thinking maybe the solenoid isn't releasing the latch enough to let trunk deck release. Is there any adjustment that I'm missing?
  3. ICM is only two weeks old. When this problem first started I automatically checked to see if the ICM was spewing green slime. There was green goop on the coolant hose below it so I swappd on my spare I keep for such a situation. Its starting to look like the CPS may be the culprit.
  4. Took delivery of new fuel pressure tester and hooked it up. It read 40psi and 15min later it was at 36psi. It started right up with previously charged battery. Once the engine had warmed up to 4th bar on temp gauge it died.
  5. Could an undercharged/weak battery cause the same symptoms? Ive got a fuel pressure tester ordered.
  6. I first had a problem starting the Coupe a couple weeks ago. I do get the fuel pump buzz and stopping. It finally started. Now it will intermittantly start and idle fine for a minute or two and just die as if I turned the key off. Now it will only turn over and catch then idle a few seconds and die . I noticed the coil packs were leaking so I replaced with a new one. Still starting then stalling out. Thoughts appreciated.
  7. I'm getting ready to recharge my previously converted to r134a 1990 AC system and have the green set of O-rings for the job. My question is do these green O-rings require some silicon on them when installed? I recall doing that in the past but I'm not sure it was with green O-rings or even with r134a refridgerant.. I think the r134a refridgerant is smaller sized moleculer-wise and whether or not that would require the silicone to achieve a better seal at the O-rings may be the case.
  8. I have cracked AC aluminum tubing where it comes off the compressor itself and the hoses start to go to the accumulator thus losing all the r134a refridgerant. I have acquired everything to fix the problem. The system worked fine for a couple of Summer seasons and had been converted to r134a by the previous owner. I'm wondering what high and low pressures I should look for when I recharge the system. Ive heard that the r134a conversion in the Reatta AC system only requires approximately 80% of the original R-12 pressures. Like possibly HIGH side 180 and LOW side 40 maybe??? I'm considering using ENVIROSAFE-12 which requires even lower system pressures which would put even less strain pressurewise on the system.
  9. It seems like my convertible has acquired gremlins over the winter in both the trunk and tonneau release mechanisms. I posted prior to this post about the trunk release problem now I'm having to open the tonneau by using the levers manually after pulling the lever to release the rear of the top. Sliding the tonneau release button up doesn't work. Isnt this supposed to activate a solenoid to pop the tonneau up? It doesn't click at all. Would this be controlled by a fuse?
  10. Using Barneys pic as reference, it appears my horizontal WIRE is not in the horizontal position but below the metal tab when trunk is open. I will try putting the WIRE back in the same horizontal position as the pic and see if it works. Thanks all.
  11. My convertible trunk will CLICK when the release button is pushed but will not open. Any thoughts appreciated.
  12. Getting the droptop tweeked for summer and its amazing how many small problems you come across when you finally have the time to tinker. My buttons for the trunk and gas door solinoids just stopped working. Is there a shared fuse that operates them. Or a ground?
  13. My power windows in both the coupe and convertible have stopped going down at about the 1/3rd down position and doing the ratcheting noise. They will go back up to close tho. Sounds like something has stripped or something?
  14. The exterior handle on my driverside door has broken on the right-hand side. It appears to be cheaply made of pot-metal. Is there another GM vehical model that uses the same simple design that would interchange?
  15. It was a Westlake Hardware store that wanted $75 for a key. Sounded like something Id get quoted at a Dealership. I dealt with a young kid that didn't really act like he knew cat poo from a candy kiss. His boss was not in the store. Probably had a scam going on with the cashier or something. I'm going to seek another location. I haven't checked the resistors in my three Reatta keys so this is a good wake up to get that taken care of. I guess measuring the key chips with a DVM is on my list first thing tomorrow. Thanks everyone!!!