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About ptt

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/04/1950

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  • Location:
    Independence, Missouri
  • Interests:
    Things that go zoom-zoom.
  1. CRC electric cleaner

    New MAF seems to have fixed the stalling. I recently put a new CRANK SENSOR on this Reatta and noticed that the HARMONIC BALANCER had a few small cracks in the rubber element.of it. Not very big but there none the less. Does the HB go bad all at once or will it last a little longer? The last one I had go bad started to click at low RPM.
  2. CRC electric cleaner

    My cleaner is the plastic safe type. So after spraying the MAF element there was no change...engine died after warming up from cold start. Would not restart and remain running. i waited for engine to completely cool and started back up. I Unplugged the MAF and it continued to idle all the way thru warmup and never did die again. the MAF suspect? This Reatta is the one that doesnt show complete letters and numerals when doing diagnostics. I haven't been able to locate my OBD-I scanner to check it either. I'm not sure I want to try to chance driving it to Autozone to see if they can scan it. I'm wondering if they even carry OBD-I scanning capabilities anymore. Anyone Know if they do?
  3. CRC electric cleaner

    I had the battery out and on a maintainer. The engine stayed running after MAF was disconnected. Bad MAF?
  4. CRC electric cleaner

    Thanks for your replies. I just replaced my coil pack and ICM. The bracket holding the ICM was pretty clean nut the old coil was leaking down onto the radiator hose so it was time to replace it. Upon starting the engine the idle was surging so I pullef the connector off the MAF and it normally idled. MAF cleaning next...thus my original post. Will post results. Thanks all.
  5. CRC electric cleaner

    Is it OK to spray (clean) the MAF element with CRC ELECTRIC CLENER or do you have to use a MAF specific cleaner? Thanks.
  6. 1990 Coupe dies....

    I just recalled that I have an old combination OBD-I/OBD-II scan tool somewhere in my archives. I havent used it since I redid some 90s Lebaron Convertibles years ago. Arent the Reattas capable of being OBD-I scanned? Isnt the diagnostic port somewhere in the center console tower? My scan tool is an AutXray brand. Hpefully I can scan it so I can get this Coupe ready for winter duty so I can store the Convertible for the winter.
  7. 1990 Coupe dies....

    When operating temperature reached on the gauge its right at the middle bar. The only problem I see with the IPC is the codes not being displayed completely where the mileage odometer is. Its like the letter and numerical symbols are missing "parts" and are incomplete. Everything else is fine with the disply. When in diagnostics it cycles though codes but some arent legible. I havent tried disconnecting the MAF yet so need to do that and other suggestions. Thanks.
  8. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    Ive been incapacitated with an injured knee and one of the other convertibles and havent gotten back to the Coupe.
  9. 1990 Coupe dies....

    I had the symptoms of a bad crank sensor with the engine starting and when it reached operating temperature it would stall. I went ahead and checked fuel pressure (41lbs) and it held dropping to 35lbs with engine turned off. I checked codes and it seems there is a problem with the display that doesn't allow the letters and numbers to display entirely making it difficult to correctly read the codes. I proceeded by swapping out the Crank Sensor. Started engine and upon reaching operating temperature it stalled as before. I had left the Fuel Pressure Gauge attached and it displayed the original (KOEO) 41lbs after the stall. The Coils are new also. Can I rule out the oil pressure switch killing the fuel pump because of the 41lbs of fuel pressure displayed after the stall???? The faulty code display is making this into a mystery.
  10. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    As I posted previously it appears the tube going to the evaporator has an ever-so-slight downward bend to it. Its enough to stop the new orifice tube and leave the long screen end with about 1/2in sticking out. Possibly the PO had yarned on it for some reason or other. The fitting and tube surface showed no distress marks except for that slight downward curve. Maybe the fact its bent has something to do with the fact no old orifice tube being present when I separated the fitting? Someone had obviously been into it. Going to do the evaporator flush suggested next. Thanks to 89Red and all for hanging in there!!!!
  11. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    89Red....your pic of the 1990 evaporator (ROCKAUTO) is what my evaporator plumbimg looks like. As the 1990 FSM states "...the short screen end of the orifice tube inserts towards the evaporator ..." So your original answer is the correct one for a 1990 system! Short screen end always towards the evaporator and long screen end always towards the condenser for 1990 systems. I wonder why they needed to switch it up like that?
  12. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    89Red...I believe you had it right the first time if my 1990 FSM is correct. It illustrates on page 1B-4 that for orifice tube replacement "install with shorter screen end toward evaporator and use new o-ring seals"
  13. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    The aluminum line going thru the firewall to the evaporator appears to have an ever-so-slight curve and only allows the new orifice tube to go in to where about a half an inch remains out of the line. It seems to be seated as far as the orifice tubes o-ring is concerned. I don't see how it can migrate any further. New O-rings are being installed as I work my way towards the ACCUMULATOR. I think I'm resigned to having to pull the radiator to access the back of the compressor to remove the 15mm bolt holding the hoses to it.
  14. Brake line

  15. 1990 AC oriface tube question....

    Yes...I used a flashlight and theres nothing in the line. I will try and align it correctly and get it to to seat. I sure need to pick up the pace or I will be shoveling snow...but I'll have AC... Next is getting to that 15mm bolt holding the hoses on the compressor that go to the accumulator....any way to get to it without radiator removal?