Roger Zimmermann

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Roger Zimmermann last won the day on December 12 2016

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About Roger Zimmermann

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1945

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Switzerland
  • Interests:
    US cars, red wine, sunbathing in summer (too cold for that in winter!),Fats Domino music

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  • Biography
    I will be 65 years old this year (2010); I'm a male not married.

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  1. Randy, I hope too that all the inside parts can be installed without trouble! I tried to make the installation easy keeping in mind that once the roof will be there. I will see... The picture of the headliner was a trial. the cloth is now gone and I improved the shape at the rear to have a surface less flat between two bows. At due time, the cloth will be glued on the shell as a module, with the inside lamp and A/C vents. Then, it will be definitively attached to the roof, once the model is painted as it will be impossible, if attached now, not to damage the cloth with wet sanding and overspray. I have an airbrush which is used for the industrial surfacer (the read paint on the body). Obviously, I'm lacking experience with that spray medium as my results are so, so. With a rattle can, I have pretty decent painted surfaces, the mix with thinner is always the right one and no painful cleaning after usage! When I was working for 2 years in a bodyshop between apprenticeship and technical school, the paint manager let me spray a Citroën 2CV. Well, the car was painted, but I could not say I was very proud! When I restored my cars scale 1:1, I did the paint of all inner metal parts, engine and trunk compartment as well as the firewall. I would say they are not bad done, without dust inclusion (I was working in a barn) but I let paint the outside by a body shop. Expensive, but I don't regret that expense. If the outside surface is perfect, you will get good results on your '36 Plymouth fenders. You probably know that the paint will not hide surface imperfections , like for chrome plating!
  2. Yes, I'm sure! Have you ever see a body on a desk?
  3. Another point of no return: after finishing the shell for the headliner, I decided that it was time to solder the roof to the body. I hope that I will not find the hard way that it was too early, but now the door is open to think at the body finishing.
  4. I had not this problem: I have glasses! Very nice job!
  5. Now, the drums are really nice looking!
  6. Thanks for the comments, Paulie and Randy, I appreciate them! I'm getting nearer to the outside finish: one ce shell from the headliner is ready, I will solder the roof to the body. Then, the fun will begin!
  7. Some days ago, I bought some cloth. Not satin, but cotton. This afternoon, I experimented with that cloth with the adhesive can I found. Unfortunately, the can is too old; what came out is liquid and lump (if this is the correct word). Anyway, the first attempt is not too bad; I have to improve the lines and buy a new can. The cloth is not snow white; it should be ok with either white/blue trim or white/red trim. I still hesitate between a blue metallic or anthracite outside color. Years ago, our stores had hundreds of spray cans; now maybe 20 or 30 generic paint are exposed. It will be a problem to find the right (for me) color.
  8. Dale, are you not afraid that the rust which is in the pores will come back? Or is that sand dust? (not quite compatible with bearings...)
  9. I expected to have difficulties with the hood emblem: no deception here, I had some! First, I did a major mistake: I took 2 bits of brass, did a groove in the middle, and silver soldered them to have the star basis. All went well until I began with the outer square. If I silver soldered them, the whole star could come apart as the soldering was not 100%. I decided to soft solder it, knowing that the joint is very weak, especially with such small dimensions. I did a wider square, did slots until I could solder the assembly to the star. The principle is shown on the first and second picture (but this is the second emblem); then, the excess metal has to be eliminated until the appropriate thickness is obtained. All went well until one part went away because the joint was effectively too weak. I tried to solder it and, during that process, 2 other parts said good bye! At that moment, I knew that I can do another star, this time with solid material. A new square was then silver soldered and the same process of eliminating the excess brass was performed like the first try. This time all went well; I could then soft solder the base of the emblem. As you can see on the last picture, the finished emblem on the right is at 90% OK: during the soft soldering, I missed the opportunity to maybe correct a little bit the outside square shape. Fortunately, when put on the hood, this misshapen is barely visible. Doing a third emblem is no guarantee that it will be better, therefore, I let it that way. The part on the left will stay that way as I had too many hours into it to throw it away.
  10. Thanks Randy for this other solution. Sound promising! I had no Internet connexion yesterday evening (local time), I did not see your email. You'll get an answer today.
  11. Well, Frank, this is another possibility I never thought about. Thanks for the idea! From what I saw, rather easy to apply; it requires however that the shell must have a nice finish which is not the case right now.
  12. It does not happen a lot, but this time I don’t know how further: thanks to the mild weather we had recently, I could “cast” the headliner shell. After trimming, it goes into the roof, but the fitting is not perfect as I removed here and there too much material. Initially, I had the idea to use off-white satin to represent the headliner. That material is very thin; probably by applying cement on the shell, the glue will go through the satin (more from it later). To avoid the problem, I imagined cutting the shell into 7 segments at the lines which are figuring the suspending wires and glue the material from behind. I anticipated following problems: the alignment of each panel may not match the next panel exactly; the satin must be cemented on the roof at the sides, not at the shell. That cemented satin on the side could be pushed back when I will attach the side and front brass molding, ruining the headliner. OK, I could try and in case of catastrophic failure redo another shell. Misshapen are sometimes there to find a better solution; I prefer however to avoid waste. The next solution would be to install definitively the shell into the roof and cement the satin directly on it. I tried this morning to spray some “Display mount” from 3M; as expected, I had the fingers full of that stuff which go through a thin cloth very easily. The other solution I see is the use thin leather for the headliner. Not quite correct, but who is looking at the headliner from a scale model? Maybe one of my readers has a solution I could use…
  13. It would be time to put some grease at the upper ball joint from the suspension. It seems that it was not done since a long time!
  14. Just wait Randy: I preparing the steps for the hood ornament. from the dimensions I got from Germany and from somebody from the Mark II forum, this piece is...rather large.