Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Lennon, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment

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  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. One issue that aircraft do not face is the corrosion problem present in the automotive environment. So you design for the environment that the part will be used in. The Franklin folks used soldered in the more corrosive environment and the faster/cheaper lace and crimp for under the dash - probably not confused, just most cost effective solution for the environment. For aircraft it's all about vibration and their connector solutions would never hold up in an automotive environment. How many of you have had to repair (via solder probably) the stupid crimped connectors most trailer manufacturers use? My 1923 Studebaker had all soldered terminals originally, so that is how I restored it. That all said, my restored car isn't going to be seeing a significant corrosive environment so either soldered or crimped would work fine. If you want to restore your car to 100% correctness then copy the original design. Scott
  2. This is a National Meet but not a Grand National. The Grand National is June 15-17th in Independence, MO.
  3. Sunny and 75 degrees - of course. Based on the flyer from the ASC....looks like driving from the Fair Grounds to the Heritage House Museum in Walkerton then to the Pretty Lake Country Club for lunch then back to the Fair Grounds, starting at 9:30 am on Friday May 5th. I would estimate that to be a 70 - 75 mile trip. Keep in mind that you do need to register with the Studebaker Drivers Club to participate in the International Meet. I have plenty of spare packing and can mail that to you. The fuel pump is pretty simple, usually dirt and varnish in the fuel system is the problem unless the pot metal top falls apart. I have some scans of the pump and operation if you need them. Let me know. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  4. Or just a piece of 1/4" from the local glass shop.
  5. Reading into your question it seems you may be considering your towing options. The reason I ask about a trailer is an enclosed trailer has a lot more wind load which really dominates tow load during flat land driving...much more than weight. Of course stopping is all about total weight and braking ability. So for you I would guess a 2000lb trailer and 3000lb car will put you at 5000 lb total. You can probably get away without trailer brakes in the relatively flat mid-west using a full size truck to tow with. Just make sure you anticipate a longer stopping distance. Trailer brakes would alleviate any issues. Definately remove or fold up and secure the top and I would open the windshield to reduce the wind load on the windshield support. Hope for no rain while trailering...once there you can always through a cover over it. I plan on going, will bring my '23 and would love to see your car there. Is it roadworthy enough to join the driving tour on Friday? Scott
  6. Would you be towing on an open trailer or enclosed?
  7. When I bought a few items from Steve about 3 or 4 years ago, he said he was retiring from the business in a couple of months. Scott
  8. Depends what you are flying. DeKalb County Airport is about 2 miles south of Auburn. 5000 foot runway can handle a light twin or anything smaller. Commercial....then it's Fort Wayne.
  9. From another engineer.....seat belts are an obvious improvement for lower speed impacts, say up to 25 miles an hour. It will keep your young back seat occupants from flying head first into the robe rail during a frontal impact. At higher speeds, I'm not sure how much, if any, improvement would be seen due to the many issues noted (energy of seats and other unsecured parts, ability to properly install seatbelts, anchor points, etc.). I hate to consider rear or side impacts with or without belts as there is just no protection in these cars. Personally, I chose not to install seatbelts and I'll tell you why. I look at risk mitigation. I am a helicopter flight instructor and have about 4000 accident free hours of which most is instructing. Statistically speaking, flying helicopters is one of the most dangerous things you can do - especially instructing since it seems all students are focused on trying to kill you. However, if you remove all the accidents caused by pilot error, statistically it becomes one of the safer ways to travel. I approach each drive in my antique car the same way as a flight. I try to remove as much risk as I am in control of so, when driving I leave more room in front of me to another car, try to signal those behind me a few times to ensure I get their attention before stopping, anticipate lights, watch more intently at intersections, sometimes I slow down when going through intersections, basically I try not to put myself in bad situations. When I took my young family driving in my Class C motorhome I knew (after seeing how poorly they are constructed) that any accident would be really bad for anyone travelling in an RV. When we were driving in heavy traffic (cities), everyone had to be in a belted seat. Once we got on the highway, beds, table, bathroom were all available as the risk of an accident was really low. Besides if we got in an accident at 70 mph we would all be dead regardless of seatbelts (have you ever seen an RV in a highway accident? - not good). Everything we do has some level of risk and I'm willing to take that risk in order to enjoy things in life. I try to mitigate as much risk as I can control and accept the fact that sometimes bad things happen. I pray I won't ever be in that situation but I cannot control that. Now, you could consider the car seats that they were promoting in my 1923 Automobile Trade Journal..... Scott
  10. Love the Hupp. My opinion.......leather is the way to go. If you don't mind making the trip to Michigan, Mark Larder Upholstery in Homer, Michigan does top notch work. I already had the upholstery done on my car, but after seeing the quality of their leather work, I had them do the top and storm curtains on my car. Getting a quality interior made is not a cheap investment so if you find someone to do it cheaply, run away, don't walk. In the end, you get what you pay for. Scott
  11. Tinindian, I beg to differ. Hydraulic brakes have a huge advantage over cables and I'm not talking about control ability that is afforded through today's electronics. What was immediately apparent with the addition of hydraulic brakes was the ability to easily balance the braking action. This is extremely important for left / right balance that can have a immediate negative impact to vehicle dynamics....no one wants a yaw event unexpectedly when braking. Front / rear balance is also easier to control. This appears to be a moot point for Jean Marc though if rules don't allow. Scott
  12. If the trailer is well sealed then you probably wouldn't have an issue (additional humidity can't get in). After having them destroy a few things I have the same obsession.
  13. For moisture, it's not so much the rain but having a warm moist air mass move into an area that has cold soaked at 10 degrees F for a week. It takes a lot of time for that car to stabilize temperature and, unless a trailer is really sealed well, the moisture in the air will get in and condense on that nice cold block of steel. So you either regulate the temperature (heater) to keep the car from getting cold enough to condense the moisture or regulate the moisture (dehumidifier or large amounts of desiccant). I have two options for mice...typical mousetraps that you need to check occasionally or the 5 gallon pail solution.....it has been mentioned in other threads. The one with the rotating plastic pop (soda for others) bottle with peanut butter on it and water or non-toxic antifreeze in the bottom. Scott
  14. lump, Your Hupmobile has the same top style as my 1923 Studebaker that was advertised as having a one man "gypsy type" top in the advertising brochures. I wonder why the term "gypsy" was used. The definition of gypsy is used to describe a nomadic group of people. Scott
  15. Grimy has provided the correct advice for fh4ever, so ditto that. With regard to the synthetic....hmmmm. They typically do not need the additive packages that the straight mineral oils have so I'm not sure about the yellow metal corrosion issue. Carl, I would recommend going to the Lucas oil website or contacting them and ask if their synthetics are compatible with yellow metals. The synthetic oils really are vastly superior to mineral oils for lubrication so I would have no concerns with that. The only other downside to synthetics is that they are much more aggressive to seals at higher operating temperatures so you need compatible seal materials. It will often swell some seal materials. So if you replaced the old felt seals with lip seals it is possible for some degradation in sealing properties. Most synthetic oil manufacturers claim full compatibility but my auto industry engineering experience and testing says otherwise. FYI - I use the 600W GL-1 in my 1923 for both trans and axle. Scott