Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. The quoted post was started by Tim Plas (trap442w30) who inquired, then purchased that 1917 ED Series 18. I had the pleasure of helping Tim out with a few issues to get the car running and loaned him my Illustrated Parts Manual. He was very enthused about trying to get it to the National Studebaker Meet in South Bend last year and was successful in doing so. I was able to meet Tim in person and checked out the car, which was in really nice original condition. We had a few good conversations and he was able to make it about halfway along the tour to downtown South Bend but ran into some fueling issues.. Fast forward to December 2017....Tim passed away very unexpectantly on his 52nd birthday. I was really saddened to hear of his passing, which was announced in the March-April 2018 Antique Studebaker Review. His wife, Joyce, was inquiring of Richard Quinn a value of that car if she decided to sell it. I'm not sure if she did sell it our not but can provide you her email address if you wanted to ask (just PM me). Scott
  2. Stude Light

    rear diff ratio's in 1931

    To be accurate, you should really measure the distance traveled by one revolution of the tire. Just mark a radial line on the tire, push the car until the line is perpendicular to the ground and mark your starting point. Then push until you get one full rotation (when the mark is perpendicular again). Then measure distance traveled. Measuring the tire radius from the ground to the center of the axle is not as accurate as the circumference of the tire doesn't change. However just using the circumference is not completely accurate as there is some very minor skidding that occurs during rotation and will slightly change the rolling circumference. Scott
  3. Stude Light

    Cleaning a fuel tank

    I agree. So it is bare metal and a bit rusty now. You clean it out real well to bare metal where it will continue to rust as you always get some condensation. Seems like clean it and seal it. In 1932, they didn't have the compounds we have today to properly protect the inside of the tank. Other option is to clean it and keep replacing filters. Scott
  4. Stude Light

    3 brush generator adjustment

    This is an excellent solution that works great. Some details in the link below. My Remy Cutout is fully adjustable but requires a regulated voltage supply to set it up properly. Adjustment is detailed in the Dykes manual. Important so it doesn't cutout inappropriately. Scott
  5. Stude Light

    FS- 1931 Franklin Club Sedan- Good original

    FYI - I talked to Bruce and he said he just sold the car.
  6. Stude Light

    1926 Studebaker oil line?

    1926 Standard Six Duplex Phaeton Dave answered your grounding question Scott
  7. Stude Light

    Need help identifying this car

    I think I solved it. I started with the shape of the radiator emblem, searched on those which let me to Monroe. Looks like a 1915 Monroe. What do you think?
  8. Stude Light

    Need help identifying this car

    I'm going to say not a Saxon. Two piece windshield, radiator shape, headlight design/placement, front suspension, hood length/louver, rear fenders are all mis-matched.
  9. Stude Light

    Need help identifying this car

    From the teens most likely. Sorry about the quality - photo of a photo. Thanks. Scott
  10. Stude Light

    1926 Studebaker oil line?

    Frank, Light Six production was from 1920 - 1924, so you have a different model. Picture or serial number would help you to identify it. Scott
  11. Stude Light

    Advice on 1923 Olds 47

    Another touring car. I am a bit concerned on the two main design, especially with an aluminum block but can find very little info on that V8. I was looking for someone with experience with this engine to help alleviate my fears. Thanks for the advice though. Looking at it tonight. Scott
  12. Stude Light

    Advice on 1923 Olds 47

    I am considering buying a 1923 Olds47 with the 233.7 cu in V8. Just wondering if anyone can share driving characteristics of this car and experience with the V8 and driveline. I have a nice driving 1923 6 cylinder Studebaker Light Six Touring car but it doesn't drive as nice as say a late 20's car. I'm just wondering how much the V8 changes things for an early 20s car. Thanks for any input. Scott
  13. Stude Light


    Very interesting post with all the opinions. I work for GM so have a bit of insight into the EVs and AVs. Recall GM did build the EV1s back in the 90s to test the market and the owners really liked them. I thought the Volt was a good idea - EV range for a short commute but no range anxiety since it has an ICE to make electricity to keep going. The Bolt is the long range EV only vehicle that is made for the commuter. Tesla went after a niche market - high end, performance EVs and found a good customer base. They build some nice cars. Building a profitable EV for the masses is a bit more difficult when you compete against ICEs which already has all the infrastructure. In the end, EVs will find a market place, as will AVs but this will all take a lot of time. I live out in farmland and doubt I'll see EVs take over the roads where I live before I die. I'm sure China and some other countries will see a greater number before the US. As far as Tesla the company, I think it's overvalued in the stock market. Their stock value is certainly not based on sound business principles nor return on investment. As mentioned before - lots of investment dollars and hype. I recall seeing that EVs currently are less than 1/10 of 1% of the vehicles on the road today in the US.
  14. Stude Light


    Craig, EVs require a significantly higher level of ampacity than what you would find in the parking lots you mentioned. For example, taking a Chevy Bolt from a 20% charge (50 mile range), to a 100% charge (240 mile range) would take about 48 hours on a typical 15 amp/120 v outlet. Using a DC fast charge only takes an hour to go 20% to 80% and another 30 minutes if you want that last 20% to get to a full charge. Scott
  15. Stude Light


    Tesla makes really nice cars and they are fast. I've driven several. Tesla has also done a good job integrating large touch screen technology similar to the smart phone industry. The vehicles are not rocket science though and other OEMs could make similar cars. Most car companies are in business to make money and in 15 years Tesla has failed to do that and has used investor money to function. This may be why others haven't followed suite....need to make a profit. Their stock price is all based on hype. I guess I just don't understand Wall Street.