Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Lennon, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. Tim, On my Light Six, I have a single spring that is very strong and almost fully collapsed when assembled so you get very little play (maybe 0.020"). Scott
  2. I attended the SDC and ASC National Meet in South Bend this past weekend (which was a lot of fun). During the ASC Driving Tour, I had a number of folks inquire about the LED brake light bar I had on my Light Six and I said I would post info about where I got it so here you go..... I purchased this from: It is connected to the mechanical brake switch (pulled on by a wire connected to the brake rod) that I previously installed in the car and turns on the STOP lamp. That little lamp on the left side is really hard to see, so to avoid getting rear ended, which just happened to me today while driving a 2017 GMC Denali HD Pickup (distracted driver), I added this high mount LED. It works with 6 or 12 volts and positive or negative ground. What is really nice is that it can be adjusted to flash, then go steady. It suction cups to the rear window and has a quick connect plug so is easily removed for shows. Very bright and the flashing feature really grabs your attention. It is a bit pricey at $68 but the added safety factor is well worth it. Very simple hook up - one wire to the brake switch and the other to ground. Scott
  3. This is an excellent solution: Applicable to any of the 3 brush designs and has several band options to match what you have. 3rd brush is removed. Scott
  4. On your car, the only things that really care are certain components that are grounded through the a starter. You would have to internally rewire that if you switched ground polarities. Light bulbs don't care. Not sure if running your wiper motor in reverse matters unless it has a park position....otherwise right/left cleans as well as left/right :-)
  5. I wonder if the original manufacturers started with positive ground vehicles knowing that the flow through a DC circuit is from negative to positive? So flowing out of the battery through the load into the ground. That just makes better sense from a visualization perspective. Doesn't really matter from a practical sense. Scott
  6. From the chart: Moving from 100% methanol (looks closer to a 65 deg boiling point) and adding water does raise the boiling point of the mixture. So a 63% water/37% methanol (by wt) would boil around 80 deg C (176 deg F) and would freeze at -37 deg C (-35 deg F). So I think those numbers make an alcohol based solution feasible. Not buying or selling methanol. Personally I just stick with water and NoRosion for summer and don't drive the car (1923) in the winter and store it in the heat. My 1939 Allis Chalmers gets the old fashioned green EG/water for year round use. Scott
  7. Thank goodness someone else finally wrote all this down in an article. The author did an excellent job researching and explaining the facts. This all agrees with my research with only one error. Myth #5. Actually the base oil is the lower of the two viscosity numbers (i.e. 10w-40 starts out as SAE10 and the additive package contains the long polymeric chains that provide the increased high temperature viscosity index of 40 at 100 deg C). Thank you Curti for posting. Scott
  8. Your medium gray is correct. I believe it was 1928 that they switched to green. I think the gray gives it that industrial look. Scott
  9. I've done much research on this whole subject and gleaned most of my information from SAE papers, aircraft engine rebuilders, a retired GM engineer who was a lead engineer in the R&D group for lubes (who wrote several of the SAE papers) and from my own experience with running old engines . Based on that, I would recommend using just a straight weight dispersant (aka "detergent") oil. If you want the best stuff use synthetic. My engine has no oiler filter so I use mineral oil as I like to change it often and don't feel like wasting a bunch of money on synthetic oil that gets changed too often. Unfortunately, frequent oil changes are the only way to really keep it clean without a filter. Multi-grade oils start with the lowest viscosity base stock then include the additive package which includes long polymeric chains to "thicken" the oil to maintain higher temperature viscosity stability. So 5W30 uses a 5W base stock. Multi-viscosity oils tend to shear down the friction modifier package over time and return to something close to the base stock viscosity. I don't run my vintage car in cold weather so I stick with straight weight oils as my engine seems to like them more than the multi-viscosity oils - maintains oil pressure better when it gets hot. If I did cold starts in the winter, I would use multi-viscosity. Truthfully, any of today's oils are so superior to the oils of the 20's, 30's, 40's that you can use any of them and get excellent wear characteristics. I would not use "non-detergent" oil. All the dispersant or "detergent" in the oil does is keep most of the dirt and carbon suspended in the oil so it doesn't settle out and makes a filter and oil changes more effective at removing contaminants. It doesn't clean out settled deposits in your engine. That said, I always recommend removing and cleaning out an oil pan on an engine with unknown history or one that has been running "non-detergent" oil. It is just good practice and will reduce whatever oil you have in the engine from becoming any dirtier than necessary. Scott
  10. One issue that aircraft do not face is the corrosion problem present in the automotive environment. So you design for the environment that the part will be used in. The Franklin folks used soldered in the more corrosive environment and the faster/cheaper lace and crimp for under the dash - probably not confused, just most cost effective solution for the environment. For aircraft it's all about vibration and their connector solutions would never hold up in an automotive environment. How many of you have had to repair (via solder probably) the stupid crimped connectors most trailer manufacturers use? My 1923 Studebaker had all soldered terminals originally, so that is how I restored it. That all said, my restored car isn't going to be seeing a significant corrosive environment so either soldered or crimped would work fine. If you want to restore your car to 100% correctness then copy the original design. Scott
  11. This is a National Meet but not a Grand National. The Grand National is June 15-17th in Independence, MO.
  12. Sunny and 75 degrees - of course. Based on the flyer from the ASC....looks like driving from the Fair Grounds to the Heritage House Museum in Walkerton then to the Pretty Lake Country Club for lunch then back to the Fair Grounds, starting at 9:30 am on Friday May 5th. I would estimate that to be a 70 - 75 mile trip. Keep in mind that you do need to register with the Studebaker Drivers Club to participate in the International Meet. I have plenty of spare packing and can mail that to you. The fuel pump is pretty simple, usually dirt and varnish in the fuel system is the problem unless the pot metal top falls apart. I have some scans of the pump and operation if you need them. Let me know. Scott
  13. Or just a piece of 1/4" from the local glass shop.
  14. Reading into your question it seems you may be considering your towing options. The reason I ask about a trailer is an enclosed trailer has a lot more wind load which really dominates tow load during flat land driving...much more than weight. Of course stopping is all about total weight and braking ability. So for you I would guess a 2000lb trailer and 3000lb car will put you at 5000 lb total. You can probably get away without trailer brakes in the relatively flat mid-west using a full size truck to tow with. Just make sure you anticipate a longer stopping distance. Trailer brakes would alleviate any issues. Definately remove or fold up and secure the top and I would open the windshield to reduce the wind load on the windshield support. Hope for no rain while trailering...once there you can always through a cover over it. I plan on going, will bring my '23 and would love to see your car there. Is it roadworthy enough to join the driving tour on Friday? Scott
  15. Would you be towing on an open trailer or enclosed?