Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Lennon, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment

Converted

  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. Grade of gas in old flathead 6

    I've experimented by using kerosene to lower the octane in my 4:1 compression ratio 1923 engine. It ran slightly better vs the standard 87 octane fuel. It's not very practical if you enjoy touring, so instead I just use 87 octane gas and advance the timing. I'm fortunate regarding the ethanol content....Nothing in my fuel system is affected, otherwise I would be looking for ethanol free from specialty stations or marinas.
  2. Here is the engine torque/hp curve on a Light Six engine which is the basis for your Dictator Studebaker Light Six Engine Dyno Test.pdf
  3. Piston Ring Search by Size?

    Otto Gas Engine Works http://www.ringspacers.com/ Seems to be able to find rings for anything - bore, ring width and groove depth is needed. Scott
  4. I worry more about stopping in my Light Six. The brakes work fine but having just two in the rear keeps me very focused on following distances and potential issues down the road.
  5. Gary B

    Photos and dimensions of the wheel I have... 17" Overall Diameter Shaft interface is a taper keyway: 1.120" ID at start of taper 1.00" ID at end of taper Taper length is about 1.6" 3/16" key Needs a little work but easily restorable. $45 plus shipping. Let me know if interested. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  6. Gary B

    I may have one. Pictures and dimensions would help. Particularly where it mounts to the shaft and how the wood attaches to the metal "spokes". I'll dig up what I have and post a photo. Scott
  7. trini

    My 1923 Studebaker Light Six Touring car was provided by Budd and was Studebaker's first all metal body. As mentioned in the other post, Dodge Brothers adopted the Budd provided bodies almost 10 years earlier. But getting back to the original question....if you keep the wood dry, you will not have insect problem nor the microbial decay. You do not need a wood preservative but a good coating to keep it from getting wet internally. Good quality paints or urethanes come to mind. My original roof bows were bare wood and pristine after 90 years as were the floor boards when I received the car but the roof material was intact. Scott
  8. Wood

    My 1923 Light Six Touring Car was the first year for an all metal body but the original floor boards and running boards are both yellow pine. Scott
  9. '25 Studebaker Special Six Help!

    What make and model distributor?
  10. 1917 touring steering "looseness"

    Tim, On my Light Six, I have a single spring that is very strong and almost fully collapsed when assembled so you get very little play (maybe 0.020"). Scott
  11. I attended the SDC and ASC National Meet in South Bend this past weekend (which was a lot of fun). During the ASC Driving Tour, I had a number of folks inquire about the LED brake light bar I had on my Light Six and I said I would post info about where I got it so here you go..... I purchased this from: http://www.brakeflasher.com/brake.htm It is connected to the mechanical brake switch (pulled on by a wire connected to the brake rod) that I previously installed in the car and turns on the STOP lamp. That little lamp on the left side is really hard to see, so to avoid getting rear ended, which just happened to me today while driving a 2017 GMC Denali HD Pickup (distracted driver), I added this high mount LED. It works with 6 or 12 volts and positive or negative ground. What is really nice is that it can be adjusted to flash, then go steady. It suction cups to the rear window and has a quick connect plug so is easily removed for shows. Very bright and the flashing feature really grabs your attention. It is a bit pricey at $68 but the added safety factor is well worth it. Very simple hook up - one wire to the brake switch and the other to ground. Scott
  12. 12v -6v battery

    This is an excellent solution: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/generator.htm Applicable to any of the 3 brush designs and has several band options to match what you have. 3rd brush is removed. Scott
  13. 12v -6v battery

    On your car, the only things that really care are certain components that are grounded through the housing....like a starter. You would have to internally rewire that if you switched ground polarities. Light bulbs don't care. Not sure if running your wiper motor in reverse matters unless it has a park position....otherwise right/left cleans as well as left/right :-)
  14. 12v -6v battery

    I wonder if the original manufacturers started with positive ground vehicles knowing that the flow through a DC circuit is from negative to positive? So flowing out of the battery through the load into the ground. That just makes better sense from a visualization perspective. Doesn't really matter from a practical sense. Scott
  15. Coolant question

    From the chart: Moving from 100% methanol (looks closer to a 65 deg boiling point) and adding water does raise the boiling point of the mixture. So a 63% water/37% methanol (by wt) would boil around 80 deg C (176 deg F) and would freeze at -37 deg C (-35 deg F). So I think those numbers make an alcohol based solution feasible. Not buying or selling methanol. Personally I just stick with water and NoRosion for summer and don't drive the car (1923) in the winter and store it in the heat. My 1939 Allis Chalmers gets the old fashioned green EG/water for year round use. Scott