Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars

Converted

  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. What is this???

    I wasn't suggesting to throw out the filter and housing design but if you can't find a replacement element you either run with the hardware intact and no filter element or modify your car to accept something newer that it didn't originally come with. I'm more of a purest and like to keep things they way they came. But, as you can see from above I drive with an air filter although I keep my original intake pipe on when not taking trips....it's an easy swap. Maybe a bit of a compromise I guess. If you aren't so particular then sure, adding a filter is always better. If you are daily driving I would add it, if not, no filter isn't going to be a significant factor to wearing out the engine with frequent changes. To each his own. If it were my car, I would research and find a solution for a pancake housing element filter. There is a solution out there. That's part of the fun of the hobby for me.....looking for and designing solutions to the challenges faced. Guess that is why I liked restoring my car as you can't order parts out of a book like many of the Model T owners have the option of.
  2. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hi Bernie, Based on your chassis and engine serial numbers I think we have firmly established that you have a 1920 model as the numbers fit the records that exist. Being a 1920 it would not have a shroud ventilator. Those were added on the 1922 models and beyond. It's a bit hard to see in the one photo, but it looks like there are holes in the body going down the sides (right along the edge) where the hoodlace would attach via split rivets. The hoodlace was a four piece design along the back side of the hood....oops, I mean bonnet. In the top photo, the hole to the left of the trim screw hole looks to be the top hole for the hoodlace. Scott
  3. What is this???

    I'm with nzcarnerd. It only partially filters your oil anyway. Today's oils are so much superior than oils of the period and relatively cheap, plus you can recycle your oil vs dumping it on the dirt roads of yesterday so don't feel bad about changing it fairly often. A number of aircraft manufacturers added filters to their piston engines in only the last 20 years and some are still without filters. They just change oil more often. Imagine a multi-hundred thousand dollar aircraft and no oil filter on the engine....
  4. 1917 Studebaker Info

    You might try posting in the Studebaker section of this Forum.
  5. Ford's Piquette facility

    Didn't Studebaker then buy that plant and built cars there?
  6. But Is It Really A Blight Issue?

    I just moved off an 80 acre hobby farm that I owned for 21 years. I used it for farming, like it was zoned for (rural residential)....along with my neighboring farmers. I had my two project cars and a couple of tractors in my barn. Looked like a farming community around me, not a junkyard. I do feel for the guy and maybe a few folks on the forum can help him out but he did create his own problem. I'm suprised this thread has been so active and garnered this much attention.
  7. What is this???

    The bypass (or partial flow) is a step above the oil filter on my Light Six...that is...I don't have one . I just change it more often. You can see it has the same oil pump and oil gauge pipe setup. It is also a splash lube engine vs a fully pressurized oiling system that came on the 1925 Standard Six and subsequent engines (a huge improvement). As a side note, I did adapt this K&N air filter setup that I use for driving around. It swaps out easily with the original air intake cross-over pipe if I want to show it.
  8. What is this???

    Partial flow oil filter
  9. But Is It Really A Blight Issue?

    Going back to the title of the post....Yes, I would consider this a blight issue. I was on our local Planning Commission for 15 years so had to deal with issues of spot zoning or folks "grandfathered in" or just situations that gradually developed, which is probably what happened here. Regardless of how this came about you really need to consider the bigger picture. The collector (or hoarder) is in a zoning district that does not allow for this type of storage. So if allowed to continue, the guy three miles down the road starts doing the same. What happens when these issue are ignored is a precedent is set, so trying to enforce your zoning laws and ordinances becomes increasingly difficult and the situation spirals downhill. So the local government is doing the right thing to address this issue (albeit late) before the next situation develops. So think about living in a community that has no zoning or ordinance enforcement - one neighbor starts a kennel with 25 barking dogs, the other one has a few foul smelling hogs, the next guy puts up some super-bright yard lights and leaves them on all the time and then you have the guy with 200 cars rusting away, leaking oil, leaching lead and dribbling fuel on the ground, etc. My point is....It's not just about this particular guy and his neighbors, you need to consider the community aspect of what continuing to allow this "junkyard" to exist does. Sure, you feel for the guy but also consider his bad behavior brought this on and affects the entire community, not just his couple of neighbors. Scott
  10. Delco, Remy & Delco-Remy history Question

    This site has a lot of the history. http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/history.htm Also some history on all the "Delco Divisions" GM divisions dayton history.pdf
  11. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Bernie, I use Champion 1-COM in my Light Six. They are the closest I can find to the originals. I occasionally find them on eBay in NOS condition. I buy the ones with the brass top covers for the period correct look. The attached is my research over the years. If you aren't worried about correct look then the Autolite 3076 or Champion 518 should be readily available. Scott
  12. White metal bearings

    I measured both ways (my method and also as herm111 posted) and got the same results. I figured having regular engine oil in the space it would take up some of the clearance but I guess not. Considering Kohnke Rebabbitting does this for a living, I would defer you to his methodology as the correct procedure - he is the expert in this area. Regardless, the plastigage procedure isn't that hard to do. That machined new Babbitt looks really nice but used dull gray bearings are fine as long as everything is round and clearances are properly set. Good luck.
  13. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    That is great. Could save you a lot of time and headache. I agree that you should not restore it and do your best to preserve what you have. It is only original once, looks to be fairly low mileage and may be the oldest surviving Light Six worldwide. Scott
  14. 2017 Old Car Festival Photos

    It was pretty crowded at times but LOTS of fun.
  15. 2017 Old Car Festival Photos