Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. Stude Light

    Advice on 1923 Olds 47

    Another touring car. I am a bit concerned on the two main design, especially with an aluminum block but can find very little info on that V8. I was looking for someone with experience with this engine to help alleviate my fears. Thanks for the advice though. Looking at it tonight. Scott
  2. Stude Light

    Advice on 1923 Olds 47

    I am considering buying a 1923 Olds47 with the 233.7 cu in V8. Just wondering if anyone can share driving characteristics of this car and experience with the V8 and driveline. I have a nice driving 1923 6 cylinder Studebaker Light Six Touring car but it doesn't drive as nice as say a late 20's car. I'm just wondering how much the V8 changes things for an early 20s car. Thanks for any input. Scott
  3. Stude Light


    Very interesting post with all the opinions. I work for GM so have a bit of insight into the EVs and AVs. Recall GM did build the EV1s back in the 90s to test the market and the owners really liked them. I thought the Volt was a good idea - EV range for a short commute but no range anxiety since it has an ICE to make electricity to keep going. The Bolt is the long range EV only vehicle that is made for the commuter. Tesla went after a niche market - high end, performance EVs and found a good customer base. They build some nice cars. Building a profitable EV for the masses is a bit more difficult when you compete against ICEs which already has all the infrastructure. In the end, EVs will find a market place, as will AVs but this will all take a lot of time. I live out in farmland and doubt I'll see EVs take over the roads where I live before I die. I'm sure China and some other countries will see a greater number before the US. As far as Tesla the company, I think it's overvalued in the stock market. Their stock value is certainly not based on sound business principles nor return on investment. As mentioned before - lots of investment dollars and hype. I recall seeing that EVs currently are less than 1/10 of 1% of the vehicles on the road today in the US.
  4. Stude Light


    Craig, EVs require a significantly higher level of ampacity than what you would find in the parking lots you mentioned. For example, taking a Chevy Bolt from a 20% charge (50 mile range), to a 100% charge (240 mile range) would take about 48 hours on a typical 15 amp/120 v outlet. Using a DC fast charge only takes an hour to go 20% to 80% and another 30 minutes if you want that last 20% to get to a full charge. Scott
  5. Stude Light


    Tesla makes really nice cars and they are fast. I've driven several. Tesla has also done a good job integrating large touch screen technology similar to the smart phone industry. The vehicles are not rocket science though and other OEMs could make similar cars. Most car companies are in business to make money and in 15 years Tesla has failed to do that and has used investor money to function. This may be why others haven't followed suite....need to make a profit. Their stock price is all based on hype. I guess I just don't understand Wall Street.
  6. Need a price. I see pictures in the other post
  7. Stude Light

    U-Joint Hardware for 1924 Light Six

    Nothing wrong with standard hardware, even worn. That engine doesn't produce enough torque to shear three worn out bolts unless they are really bad. I replaced my joints with some "new" ones that were probably 40 years old (NOS). The rubber feel left them years ago but after 1000 miles, they still look pretty good. I was thinking about buying some material and making some spares last winter but never got around to it, so maybe this winter. My touring season is coming to an end soon. I think I have a few of the wavy washers laying around. How many did you need? Scott
  8. Well, actually a pre-1933 automobile event. I speak of the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village in Dearborn Michigan taking place September 8-9. A driving Car Show in an historic setting. Car shows are okay but they are often like an outdoor museum with a bunch of static displays. At the OCF most of the cars get driven around the campus so not only do you get to see them, talk with the owners but you get to hear them run and see them drive. Stick your thumb out and more often than not you'll catch a ride. Lots of interesting activities. It is really a fun and worthwhile event. Scott
  9. Stude Light

    U-Joint Hardware for 1924 Light Six

    Dave, It is doubtful you will find any NOS parts so the alternative is to look for used parts. I reused my originals and replaced any badly worn bolts with some that came from a spare driveshaft I had that still had some bolted on rag couplings. The problem I had was most of the used parts were also worn badly so there were only a few good spares. My suggestion is that you remove all the washers, clean those up and reuse them. Then purchase new bolts from Restoration Supply Company (RSC) the correct diameter (3/8"), length and fine thread pitch. You will have to cross drill them for cotter pins. As you can see from your original bolt, the hex head is a bit thicker than what you will find at your local hardware and there are no head markings but usually a small center bump which is the result of using a lathe to make the originals. The replacements from RSC will have the thicker hex height and will have no markings. I think they also sell the tall castellated nuts. When installing these you can snug them up but as the rubber compound in the rag joints compresses over time the bolts will lose their compressive tension. They are really made to drive in shear only and the cotter pin is what keeps them secure. The initial tension on the bolts should just be to keep them from floating around too much (axially), so don't tighten them too much. Normally there are three rag joints on each end of the driveshaft. If your replacements are a lot thicker you may have to compensate by removing one or two as the distance between the transmission output flange and axle input flange are fixed and your stack up will be too long with extra thick couplings. Good Luck. Scott
  10. Stude Light

    1922 Stude for sale

    1923 Special Six
  11. Stude Light

    Looking for headlamp glass

    Posting a photo of what you need will also help. Sometimes it's hard to identify spare parts laying around so having a photo to compare too is important.
  12. Look like about 1918 ads. Model EG on the Big Six and EH on the Light Six (which was a very different car than the 1920-24 EJ and EM Light Six).
  13. Stude Light

    The decline of Sears

    I think this is the key along with a few other comments around not keeping up with the changes in how customers shop. Sears was THE mail order company of the day. That is what made them highly successful from the late 1800s into the 20th Century. Eventually they moved from mail order to mostly department store sales. As the buying public started to move back to "mail order", now called online, no one at the company had the foresight (or hindsight) to go back to their roots. They stayed with their department store sales model and you see the results. Scott
  14. Stude Light

    Rusty Gas Tank

    Gas Tank RENU did my tank also. Very impressed with the results. $325 for me.
  15. Stude Light

    Which year ?

    There are two styles for that for the 1920-1921 Light Six cars and the 1922-1924 Light Six cars. I'm not sure of what modifications occurred to the part as it was carried into later models (Standard Six, Dictators). You know it is rare to find a decent one as the water pump typically welds itself to the housing and parts break during removal for restoration. I broke mine at that flange but was able to repair it and build the housing up a bit on the side opposite the water pump. That aluminum will weld but is quite porous and dirty. Also, plan on a slow heat and cool down to avoid cracking. I think I have the earlier design but it won't accept the oil fill/distributor support from the later design. Scott