Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    We also have a hard time with disposing of tires. Our trash pickup service will take them if they are cut into quarters or smaller.
  2. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    After reviewing three sets of original Light Six wiring harnesses the best I could tell is they used white covered wires, black covered wires and maybe brown. They also used the armor covered wires. I can send you the list I created when restoring my car with gauge and wire covering for each circuit maybe send me a PM with your email. Regarding keys, the later Light Sixes used a key for the ignition/lighting switch and the same key for the transmission lock. You have the earlier switch used with the magnetos. I'm not familiar with that one. Scott
  3. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Bernie, Now that we have the actual chassis tag, I can revise the original guess in my first post. The chassis serial number should be 7 digits and what I read is 1,002,243. So more than likely it is a 1920 car. I would agree that would make it one of the earliest survivors, if not the earliest. This makes a lot of sense based on your car's body. I had to do a bit more digging in my early Series 19-22 parts book and found that the early cars did not include the side lamp markers (parking lamps) on the cowl until serial number 1,035,003. Combined with the fender design, windshield, lack of cowl ventilator, dash design, the fact that it has a magneto system, etc. - these all agree for 1920-21 cars and your serial number says 1920. If all is in order, your engine serial number should read EJ 2350. The chassis serial numbers typically do not match the engine serial numbers. The first Light Six had engine serial number EJ 1 with chassis number 1,000,001 but as cars were built the engine numbers gradually mismatched so your 2243 body number and 2350 engine number would make a lot of sense as they are very close. My 1923 Light Six also has an engine serial number that is greater in value than the chassis number also. Keep in mind that as the factory had to make replacement parts (including engines) the engine serial numbers would grow faster than the chassis numbers. With a 1920 casting date on your engine block it is very likely you have the original engine - now we have to wait for you to verify . Your car is a really great find and looks to be in nice shape. Hope you can get it on the road soon. Scott
  4. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    With the 9-14-20 engine block casting date and knowing that Studebaker liked to age their blocks at least a few months, this may be a 1921 model engine which still does not explain why it has an oil fill that wasn't available until 1923. Maybe the original fan mounted oil fill location broke and they had to replace it with the new design fan mount so they had to add the new oil fill? A lot can happen in 97 years. Also not sure about the hood louver count. I do like the pin striping on your louvers. Considering Light Six production started in April 1920 at 1,000,001 (car serial number) and ended the year somewhere around 1,007,000, if your car is truly 1,002,350 that doesn't quite align with your engine block casting date which should put it closer to the end of the year. There are typically casting dates on the aluminum head and timing chain cover that may provide additional clues. The starter looks like a Wagner gear reduction drive which probably means you also have a Wagner generator. I do have one of each of those left. Wow, that cylinder head of yours has been welded a few times huh? There is a new casting on eBay but not can always make an offer though. If you get into a bind with the cylinder head, I may have a solution for you. Keep posting pictures and we can keep piecing together the story and get you up and running. Scott
  5. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    And another photo for engine s/n location Serial number location.doc
  6. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Engine serial number is on the engine block just above the starter.
  7. New here- 1st Post: what is it

    Nice picture of a Light Six engine...mine . Definitely not a Light Six. Please note the cover on the front of the engine, maybe that is a good clue to start with. Also, looks like the transmission bolts directly to the engine block. Scott
  8. Restoring a gas tank on my 1923 Moon

    I think this should read "just filled the tank with water and welded it."
  9. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    You can search eBay and find a number of Owners Manuals - there are two versions. One covers 1920-1922 and the other covers 1923-1924. My Light Six is a 1923 with an aluminum head (which was changed to cast iron about mid-year in 1923) so parts of each owners manual covers my car. I would recommend the earlier version Owners Manual for your car like this one. Faxon also makes a nice reproduction Maintenance manual. I have some fuse box covers. I may also have a light switch (two different styles were on the Light Six). I think I also have a spanner wrench. I also have a correct hand crank handle - your does not look to be the right one. Post a photo of the dash when you get a chance. Scott
  10. 1914 SC-4, An Introduction and a Request

    They probably didn't realize that someone would be checking up on their accuracy 103 years later.
  11. 1914 SC-4, An Introduction and a Request

    Hi Richard, The Parts Manual shows part number 15271 for the impeller and shaft assembly for the 1914 SC4 and 1915 S4. It does not list an impeller only. Water pump complete is part number 10215. I wonder why the discrepancy between the two books. Scott
  12. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hi Bernie, Ditto on Gary's suggestion to contact Mark and Lynn Bennett - really great folks. Your car is typical of the exports that came out of the Walkerville Plant in Canada. These export cars were shipped in pieces then assembled at the receiving country. As I helped Mark through a number of restoration questions, I found a lot of inconsistencies in his car and, after talking with a few other folks in Australia and Europe, I concluded that the export cars were often a mismatch of model years and sometime models. For instance, much of Mark's body is a Special Six (cowl transition, front doors, rear fenders and parts of the main body). They often painted these cars in the same colors offered for the Special Six. I suspect that yours is much the same. Looking at your car I have a few observations: First, I'm guessing the serial number is 1103981 and they just dropped the first digit. This would make yours a 1923 EM Canadian export model (FYI - The Light Six was built between 1920 and 1924. 1920-1922 were called EJ models and 1923-1924 were EM). You have the aluminum head which only came on the 1920-1923 (mid-year) Light Six The oil fill location is on what would normally be the distributor support, which was only on the 1923-1924 models (1920-1922 models had it on the fan support housing) The windshield support is for the 1920-1921 models. In 1922 and beyond they added the parking lamps to the base of the support. You car has no parking lamps - if it was a 1920-21 model they would be separate lights mounted on the cowl Your hood has 16 ribs (1922-1924) versus 11 (1920-1921) Note the sharp hood line from the radiator to the cowl - that was a trait of the 1923 and 1924 model years BUT the body is missing the beltline which was also on the 1923-1924 models so the body is pre-1923. Also the cowl transition takes the crisp hoodline up to the windshield only so that is something different from all other models. The rear hinged front doors were only on the 1920-1922 models The radiator shell is nickel plated (so was Mark's) which was only offered in 1924 You have the same rear fender guards that came on Mark's car. These are not even mentioned in the parts manual and I have not seen them on any cars except those exported to Australia or NZ so it was probably something the local dealers came up with. I have thought about why Studebaker would do such a strange mix of parts on the export models and thinking about yours and Mark's both being 1923 models, it finally hit me. 1923 was the first year of the all metal body that was built by the Budd Company in Philadelphia, PA. These bodies were rail shipped to the, now three year old, Plant 2 in South Bend, IN where they were painted and assembled. Budd did not ship to the Walkerville plant so the folks in Walkerville probably developed some solutions to mix and match parts from earlier model years and other models that used the wood frame construction for the body and door panels. This would also explain why many of the exported cars were found in colors versus the black ones that came out of the high volume assembly plant in South Bend. I have a number of Light Six parts that I am planning to relocate to a certain warehouse in Joliet, IL soon, so if you need anything please let me know and I can put it aside. More photos would be helpful as all the sharp eyes on this forum can help you out. Looks like a great project and if you need any advice or help please don't hesitate to contact me. Scott
  13. Does this sound familiar? (Humor)

    Reminds me of that blonde joke (or a few self-center guys I know). Takes only one forum hold the bulb while the rest of the world rotates around them to screw it in.
  14. How to Clean out the Gas tank on a 32 Packard

    I used Gas Tank Renu on my three compartment tank. They drilled 6, one inch diameter holes in the tank (two in each section), knocked out all the crud, then media blasted the inside of the tank. This is followed by soldering patches over the holes from the inside and adding solder over the patch to bring it flush with the outside of the tank. They then coat the inside of the tank with a gas and alcohol proof sealer. That is how I received my tank at a cost of $300. I then filed the solder flush, added some body filler, sanded, primed painted like any other part. You would never know any of this was done unless you took a bore scope to the inside from the fill hole. My tank also has a "dip" tube pickup inside which apparently caused no issues. I was really impressed with the process and results. Scott
  15. I may have a carb but my parts book just lists the part numbers and not the model number. Can someone reply as to which Stromberg model goes on a Special Six? Thanks.