Stude Light

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About Stude Light

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Oakley, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment and now, vintage cars


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    The gypsy top is 147cm wide, 105cm tall (from the pivot) and about 30cm in height when collapsed and folded up. The longest bow support is the rear one that angles backwards at 45 degrees (105cm). The next tallest is the one over the rear seat at 81cm. Hopefully it will fit in the Jetta. Scott
  2. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I never know which way you'll be leaning so just giving you the info. By black mudguards are you referring to those curvy things that go over the wheels? Scott
  3. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hi Bernie, The floorboards and running boards were made from hard yellow pine. Like mine, yours looks to be in very nice shape and very minor restoration is needed. The original linoleum was a light gray color, not black. Your 97 year old linoleum has most likely dried out and darkened with age. Nice original picture on the Shorpy Site shows an original car I have several other original photos that also show the light gray contrast and you can see the original 1922 Special Six Photos I posted a week or so ago showing the same. Scott
  4. Brighter headlights on our old machines

    Best thing I ever added to my car
  5. Museums where you can drive classics?

    The Old Car Festival (in Greenfield Village) is very tied to The Henry Ford since they sponsor the event. It has it's roots in the Ford Model Ts (and As) so it gets a lot more following on the Ford Model T/A forums and, I know it isn't tied to the AACA at all, BUT I think it should get some more "press" in this forum. At least half of the 500+ cars are not Fords and the event, while held in "Ford Territory", is very welcoming to all makes. Check out the recent video.
  6. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    For reference...I checked with Mark (Aussie Stude) on spark plug sizes. His 1923 Light Six with the cast iron head has 7/8-18 plugs as do two aluminum head motors he knows of, at least one of which had the magneto system. So there apparently was no "standard". All we know is yours was fitted up with inserts at some point (probably from the factory) and you need to fix one insert. Looks like you have a few good options that Mike6024 provided.
  7. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I suggest you keep a little journal of all you learn about the car and pass it on to the next owner. That way all you learn isn't lost. You might be surprised at how many old car buffs want all that information with the car, especially for something as "uncollectable" as a Light Six.
  8. Head stud removal ,Help

    Be glad it's a cast iron head and not $#@^& aluminum. I've been working on this one for a while. I went as far as to braze on a nut but just snapped the stud off flush with the head. My problem is there is no way to get the head off until you remove the corrosion bond to the studs. I've heard talk of a thin walled hole saw that would go around the stud but have yet to find evidence of such a thing. I wish I could offer more advice but everything I tried is listed above. The brazing or welding a nut may work if the extractor won't grip. If you snap a stud flush with the head or block, placing a nut on top of the broken stud and welding down through the nut threads often works. Good luck.
  9. There are plenty of folks advertising the ability to wood grain dashboards (painted wood grain). I'm looking for recommendations on someone that has had it done. My priority list: Quality Well protected when shipped Good people to work with Length of time to get it done Cost Thanks for any help Scott
  10. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Yep, not much holding that face on. I had to disassemble and clean my speedo to get it working. In doing so I had to guess at the spring tension on the dial. It now reads in kilometers per hour!. I'm going to pull it apart again and recalibrate it. I'll use my lathe as an input then just adjust using the ratio between kph and mph since I have that data point. Scott
  11. How to Remove Paint Spilled onto Car

    I would say water, but that's before it dried. Denatured alcohol should work on fairly new latex paint. Shouldn't touch the car paint but will soften up the latex. Try it on an inconspicuous spot on your paint first just to be sure. Good luck Scott
  12. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I was getting ready to work on my dash and was doing a little research. My 1920 Sales Brochure calls out a mahogany finished instrument board. My 1922 and 1924 Sales Brochures call out a walnut finished instrument board. So looks like they made a change sometime in 1921 or 22. Bernie, To be more sccurate you should be looking for mahogany. Scott
  13. Brake relining

    I used the clutch doctor in MN for my brake bands - fast (turn around in one week which included shipping times back and forth from MI) and reasonably priced. Excellent work and very nice to deal with. Went out of his way to find some softer linings to eliminate some brake squeal I was dealing with.
  14. Show me your Foliage!

    Great thread Victoria Lynn, thanks for starting it. Mid-Michigan, unfortunately most of the leaves are gone now and the sun was low but I had just enough light and took a couple of shots after a little drive.
  15. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    EJ is 1920-1922, EM is 1923-1924. They switched from EJ to EM for body style changes. The biggest one you will notice is the EM has all front hinged doors. It gets a little confusing on the aluminum head. They changed from aluminum to cast iron in the middle of 1923, so some 1923 EMs have aluminum and some 1923 EMs have cast iron. All 1920-1922 have aluminum and all 1924 have cast iron. Hope that helps. Scott