Stude Light

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About Stude Light

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Lennon, Michigan
  • Interests:
    Camping, Shooting, Flying, Restoring vintage equipment


  • Biography
    I bought a 1923 Light Six Tourer in 2009 and have been doing a "museum quality" restoration on it in my spare time. I also bought Mike Keeler's inventory of mid 1920's Studebaker parts before he moved out of Michigan. I've gradually been selling off those spare parts.

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  1. I worry more about stopping in my Light Six. The brakes work fine but having just two in the rear keeps me very focused on following distances and potential issues down the road.
  2. Photos and dimensions of the wheel I have... 17" Overall Diameter Shaft interface is a taper keyway: 1.120" ID at start of taper 1.00" ID at end of taper Taper length is about 1.6" 3/16" key Needs a little work but easily restorable. $45 plus shipping. Let me know if interested. Scott
  3. I may have one. Pictures and dimensions would help. Particularly where it mounts to the shaft and how the wood attaches to the metal "spokes". I'll dig up what I have and post a photo. Scott
  4. My 1923 Studebaker Light Six Touring car was provided by Budd and was Studebaker's first all metal body. As mentioned in the other post, Dodge Brothers adopted the Budd provided bodies almost 10 years earlier. But getting back to the original question....if you keep the wood dry, you will not have insect problem nor the microbial decay. You do not need a wood preservative but a good coating to keep it from getting wet internally. Good quality paints or urethanes come to mind. My original roof bows were bare wood and pristine after 90 years as were the floor boards when I received the car but the roof material was intact. Scott
  5. My 1923 Light Six Touring Car was the first year for an all metal body but the original floor boards and running boards are both yellow pine. Scott
  6. What make and model distributor?
  7. Tim, On my Light Six, I have a single spring that is very strong and almost fully collapsed when assembled so you get very little play (maybe 0.020"). Scott
  8. I attended the SDC and ASC National Meet in South Bend this past weekend (which was a lot of fun). During the ASC Driving Tour, I had a number of folks inquire about the LED brake light bar I had on my Light Six and I said I would post info about where I got it so here you go..... I purchased this from: It is connected to the mechanical brake switch (pulled on by a wire connected to the brake rod) that I previously installed in the car and turns on the STOP lamp. That little lamp on the left side is really hard to see, so to avoid getting rear ended, which just happened to me today while driving a 2017 GMC Denali HD Pickup (distracted driver), I added this high mount LED. It works with 6 or 12 volts and positive or negative ground. What is really nice is that it can be adjusted to flash, then go steady. It suction cups to the rear window and has a quick connect plug so is easily removed for shows. Very bright and the flashing feature really grabs your attention. It is a bit pricey at $68 but the added safety factor is well worth it. Very simple hook up - one wire to the brake switch and the other to ground. Scott
  9. This is an excellent solution: Applicable to any of the 3 brush designs and has several band options to match what you have. 3rd brush is removed. Scott
  10. On your car, the only things that really care are certain components that are grounded through the a starter. You would have to internally rewire that if you switched ground polarities. Light bulbs don't care. Not sure if running your wiper motor in reverse matters unless it has a park position....otherwise right/left cleans as well as left/right :-)
  11. I wonder if the original manufacturers started with positive ground vehicles knowing that the flow through a DC circuit is from negative to positive? So flowing out of the battery through the load into the ground. That just makes better sense from a visualization perspective. Doesn't really matter from a practical sense. Scott
  12. From the chart: Moving from 100% methanol (looks closer to a 65 deg boiling point) and adding water does raise the boiling point of the mixture. So a 63% water/37% methanol (by wt) would boil around 80 deg C (176 deg F) and would freeze at -37 deg C (-35 deg F). So I think those numbers make an alcohol based solution feasible. Not buying or selling methanol. Personally I just stick with water and NoRosion for summer and don't drive the car (1923) in the winter and store it in the heat. My 1939 Allis Chalmers gets the old fashioned green EG/water for year round use. Scott
  13. Thank goodness someone else finally wrote all this down in an article. The author did an excellent job researching and explaining the facts. This all agrees with my research with only one error. Myth #5. Actually the base oil is the lower of the two viscosity numbers (i.e. 10w-40 starts out as SAE10 and the additive package contains the long polymeric chains that provide the increased high temperature viscosity index of 40 at 100 deg C). Thank you Curti for posting. Scott
  14. Your medium gray is correct. I believe it was 1928 that they switched to green. I think the gray gives it that industrial look. Scott
  15. I've done much research on this whole subject and gleaned most of my information from SAE papers, aircraft engine rebuilders, a retired GM engineer who was a lead engineer in the R&D group for lubes (who wrote several of the SAE papers) and from my own experience with running old engines . Based on that, I would recommend using just a straight weight dispersant (aka "detergent") oil. If you want the best stuff use synthetic. My engine has no oiler filter so I use mineral oil as I like to change it often and don't feel like wasting a bunch of money on synthetic oil that gets changed too often. Unfortunately, frequent oil changes are the only way to really keep it clean without a filter. Multi-grade oils start with the lowest viscosity base stock then include the additive package which includes long polymeric chains to "thicken" the oil to maintain higher temperature viscosity stability. So 5W30 uses a 5W base stock. Multi-viscosity oils tend to shear down the friction modifier package over time and return to something close to the base stock viscosity. I don't run my vintage car in cold weather so I stick with straight weight oils as my engine seems to like them more than the multi-viscosity oils - maintains oil pressure better when it gets hot. If I did cold starts in the winter, I would use multi-viscosity. Truthfully, any of today's oils are so superior to the oils of the 20's, 30's, 40's that you can use any of them and get excellent wear characteristics. I would not use "non-detergent" oil. All the dispersant or "detergent" in the oil does is keep most of the dirt and carbon suspended in the oil so it doesn't settle out and makes a filter and oil changes more effective at removing contaminants. It doesn't clean out settled deposits in your engine. That said, I always recommend removing and cleaning out an oil pan on an engine with unknown history or one that has been running "non-detergent" oil. It is just good practice and will reduce whatever oil you have in the engine from becoming any dirtier than necessary. Scott