likeold

I repair outboard boat motors and probably have rebuilt 1000 carburetors, I use to use the Gunk stuff mentioned above, it was the best, then I couldn't find it anymore. I tried a lot of other things and really did not have much luck. So I purchased an ultra sonic cleaner on Amazon and found it to be useless as someone else mentioned, I returned it. Maybe if you spend a bunch of money for a good one they might work but mine ($100) pretty much did nothing. jmo

Got some black finger nail polish and it still has some brown, looks so black on my finger but not on the car.

Well, I have done everything I can to get this car running well and I think it's all good now. After adjusting the valves hot, I set the carb with the vacuum gauge, put the electronic points back in and adjusted the timing to about 8 degrees advanced. She runs damn good now, no more random back fires or noises. Seems to have pretty good power and idles as smooth as can be, what else can one ask for? A lot was learned during this process, thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, now to move on to the next issue - drive drive drive!

Nice tool set up for the valve adjustment, I just did mine yesterday kinda been putting it off because it's a bit of a pain. I just did a few at a time, shut it off to tighten and then rechecked while it was running. They all seem pretty good now and the engine smoothed out some.

Any idea where I can find black I mean really black touch up paint? I have tried a bunch and they all have brown in them.

That's pretty much what the book says, I think they even say it's okay to knock a little. I will try that instead of the light. I also have a new coil and might put the electronic points back, but one thing at a time.

Well I adjusted them all the valves to .0016 cold. Almost every valve was very tight. The car sounds and runs much different. I think all the muffled backfire noises are gone. Now the issue seems lack of power on the top end. Takes a long time to get up to 50 mph and its sluggish. I set the new points with a feeler gauge, cuz I don't have a dwell meter. Now I wonder where should the timing be with the higher octane gas these days? I feel I'm making progress.

Okay follow the the rotor, got it. I'm going to right down the measurements I found with the method I posted then do the adjustments the way you suggest. Will be interested in if they are about the same.

Okay so each time the rotor points at a certain cylinder (cap tower) and the flywheel is it TDC adjust the intake and exhaust for that cylinder, right? Seems the attached document is not accurate at all then????

Let me take that back, If I have the valves in the right place I'm getting readings from 0 to .0015 cold. (I was looking at the wrong valves) My gosh if I set them all to .0016 it should be a huge improvement, I have not turned the engine over to #8 yet. Please let me know if I'm doing this right before I start adjusting, thanks

Yesterday I installed my new points and condenser and all the new necessary wires in the distributor. Took the car for a ride and she ran no different. So today I am looking at the valves, and before I screw this thing up totally I need to get some clarification. I want to check the valve lash cold just to get an idea of what they're set at. With that said I can barely get a .0012 or .0013 feeler gauge in most of the valves when it probably should be .0017 or .0018. I turned the engine over and aligned the rotor with cylinder #1 in the distributor and tweaked it to top dead center on the flywheel (which I'm assuming is UDC 1&8 on the flywheel). And then I referenced the document I found on this website, which sounded like it might be pretty easy. But what I'm finding is, if this document is accurate some of my valves are still open even though they should be closed.

I Never hear a big bang just a muffled type popping. I Ordered the points condenser and a new coil tonight I want to get the distributor all squared away. After that I will take a look at the valves. If I'm going to check them cold first, how the heck do you turn this engine over? There is only a small space between the crankshaft pulley and the radiator so I can hardly get a wrench in there. What would the go / no go spacing be for the valve lash when cold?

Yesterday I put the original points and condenser back into the vehicle and adjusted the timing to 4°. The car does run a little better, with less muffled backfire noise seems to be happening more now when I let off the gas. I plan on buying new points and condenser and the correct ground wire and clean up the other wires so everything is new and fresh. Something that came to mind that nobody else has mentioned could I possibly have a weak coil? I think I might buy a coil when I buy the other parts just to try and eliminate that possibility. I know from previous experiences coils can cause many different symptoms. I have been trying to find a six volt tach and dwell meter on eBay and can't really find anything good or at a reasonable price, anybody else seen one for sale someplace? After I finish cleaning up the distributor I do plan on moving on to the valves to check the adjustment. As somebody mentioned perhaps they are too tight. I do notice when I drive by a fence or something that can echo the sound of the car back, it sounds like the exhaust goes puff puff puff puff puff puff which does not sound right to me.

So I want to put the original points and condenser back in and see what happens. Right now with the electronic set up I have three wires hooked to the coil. The red (on pos) and black (on neg) from the electronics and another wire on pos I assume from the ignition. When I put the points back in I will only have one wire coming from the distributor which I assume goes on positive. What gets hooked to the negative side of the coil?

Misted the electrical components last night in the dark and ran at a high rpm and did not see any arcing.