bb1970

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About bb1970

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  • Birthday 08/08/1970
  1. I sure somebody on here would be offended.
  2. Has anybody rebuilt a cv joint in a '65 Riv? Is it a pain in the A**? Or does anybody want to sell me a good one? My rear most is clunky. I removed the drive shaft to lube it. 3 of the 5 u-joints are installed backwards (not by me). So it's a pain to lube them. Can't do it in the car. Then I discovered the cv joint. Any help would be great. Tried a search just found one mention.
  3. They made a motion picture of it. Looks about as interesting as "Two Lane Blacktop".
  4. Thanks Steve. Same old swap meet wheels.
  5. Mine on 3" inch drop spring from Jamco. I drag bottom on speed bumps and humped parking lot entrances. Drive over them at an angle to minimize the carnage. No issue on the road. Rides fine. I had the exhaust move as far off the ground as possible for clearance. Tail pipes are simple turn downs that are 1/2" below the bumper. I didn't care to see them at all anyway. Jamco took along time to send the product. And the weren't the best with customer service. Got a discount being a HAMB alliance member. I don't know if that is still available. I don't look at the HAMB anymore. Jamco sources them from Coil Spring Specialties (but they were cheaper trough Jamco ??). Good luck.
  6. I did my own. The front buckets are a little tricky on the top of the seat backs. If my memory is correct. I turned the seat back covers inside out. And worked a little at a time from the top down. I tried attaching the face of the seat cover and then tried to manipulate the back over the seat top the first time. And tore the seam by the chrome strip that runs up the side of the seat just a little. The back seat and bottoms are a piece of cake. I used a pneumatic hog ring tool borrowed from a friend. And ordered seat foam for a early 60's Impala from E-bay to save $. They worked out great. I measured my Riv seats and a friends Impala seat before i bought. And they measure the same. Good advise on a new set of side cutters from a previous post.
  7. Sorry for the proof picture. It was taken a rainy car show by a photographer that was there. But it was the best shot of the rear wheel I had. It is a tight fit. But no rubbing. I can't find a mfg. name on the wheels. I'd bet Truspokes.
  8. I have 15x7 on my car. I had to run 1/4" spacer on the front due to hub and rivets. And a 1" bolt on spacer on the rear to fit over the drum. I don't know the back space. I bought the rims at a swap meet and never measured the back space. Many on here will bitch about the bolt on spacer. I've put 12,000 miles on this set up with no issue.
  9. Here's my exhaust. Hard to tell in 22 seconds. Big improvement over the glass packs I had. It's a Magnaflow cross flow muffler 2 1/4" pipe. Turned down by the bumper.
  10. Sounds like your talking about the voltage regulator to me. They are available at any parts store. Bill
  11. Before you install the motor. Upgrade the in line fuses. The ones Vogel put on mine are for a stereo installation. They need something a little more water tight. I've been in some rain. And the in line fuses he installed corrode and fail to allow the motor to function. I have to take them apart and clean them up to get the connection again.
  12. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5057088801.htmlLooks like a repost of this ad.
  13. Chris, I really like the grain pattern of the wood you chose. When it comes to cutting the console pieces. I had a hard time cutting the circles for the screw holes by the shifter. I thought I would drill them out. Well I ruined the piece I spent time cutting out. I had to use a hole punch that I hit with a hammer. As if I were making a bolt hole in gasket material. The veneer I used was paper thin. And I used a thin cardboard slipsheet for a backing material. Good luck. I'm sure it will look great. Bill