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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946

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  1. Anyone recognize this car?

    I count 26 or 27 louvers on the 33 Auburn Cabriolet hood, and 32 louvers on the unidentified car's hood. So, perhaps we still need some additional explanation, such as maybe a earlier or later hood? Passenger side tail light with a license bracket? Perhaps added by owner. Chrome strips on rear fender? An option? Hubcaps look genuine, but Auburn? While appears mopstly '33 Auburn, that grill is something else. If home=made, very well done even if a bit awkward.
  2. 1923 Buick

    A friend of mine had a '26 Chrysler Model 60 4dr, fully and nicely restored a few years back, excellent condition and running, listed for many months this past summer at $12K Canadian(about $9K US), eventually sold for $9K Canadian, about US$6500, and needed very little. My guess is the Buick would sell around US$4-$5K or less. Just not much demand for old cars these days, even less for big 4dr sedans. Just my thoughts.
  3. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    They didn't cut any corners in those days, nice sturdy bracket. However, while the vulcanized rubber might last 50-100 years, the bond to the steel probably does not especially in a sandwich like this with constant vibration and shock from potholes etc. I'm having to making a lot of parts for my CD8 project, and finding details on what they originally looked like is always a challenge. Fellow old car owners are so valuable to have.
  4. For Sale 1931 Chevy Landau Phaeton

    Great and rare car, good price I think, even if not finished. Would love to buy, but have too much on at the moment.
  5. Saw this Mercer in San Diego....

    One of my all time favorite cars. About 10 years ago, and shortly after retiring, I considered building a series of half-models of historic race cars, much like boat designers build half-models of their hulls. Idea was to build a small cottage industry, creating wall hangers for connoisseurs of the hobby. Starting with Lee Valley wooden spoke wheels (which I modified somewhat), my first (and only) effort was this 1914 Mercer Type 35, built from scratch using workshop bits and bobs. Still think it would be a potential money making idea if the cost of building them could be reduced dramatically (this prototype took about 150 hours including design and scaling).
  6. 1934 Brewster Town Car

    About 50 years ago (guessing 1966), and long before I heard of these Brewster Babes, I sketched out a Valentines card for a then newish girlfriend, on front of card I showed the front of an old car with its conventional chrome rad shell a la Ford/Chev/Chrysler etc, with the phrase "I used to be Crazy about Cars", and on the inside I drew a car with a Heart Shaped Rad Shell just like this one, with the phrase "Now I'm crazy about you".! Great looking car.
  7. Steering wheel ID - 1920s?, goes on?

    I agree. The 4 spoke wheel would normally have a 4 or 8 screw base with a screw centered in a spoke. The 6 screw center hub is more suited to a 3 spoke wheel, or is a sort of universal center. The fact the face side of the hub is larger diameter than the hub on the spokes also suggests this may be parts from 2 different steering wheels. But who knows, may be all original. Nice Steering wheel, make good look on many old cars.
  8. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Assuming the hinge style is how you want to go, seems like all you need is a suitable flat surface at the right level to attach the hinge to. Start by plugging the old end holes. Admittedly working around fresh paint is problematic, but I'd start by finding some good padded material to protect paint in this work area. Then do what ever is necessary to get those old screws out of top recess. Vice-grips, Dremel tool, .driiling heads off etc. The surface they go into should permit a new flat surface (1/8" flat steel perhaps) to be screwed (countersunk screws) to it of sufficient thickness to create the correct level to receive the new hinge. If the new hinge's pre-drilled holes are not in ideal locations, drill new ones as necessary. The new flat surface should allow you to put the screws anywhere, and if thick enough to be threaded, that can be done before installing, or tapped after install; I make it all sound easy eh? As for weather stripping top and sides, I assume the window supplier provides that. .
  9. The bead/mouldng can be seen in photos from inside of panel if you look closely. The sheet metal panels for the roadster had a 3/4" flat below the bead, then a crease, and a further 3/4-7/8" flat that turned up under the steel sill rail. I have those details generally (although they will not be easy to replicate). What I need is a photo of the lower front door post. I have a pretty good idea how it was made, and if I don't get a pic, will improvise using the rear door post construction as a guide. The difference between the 2 posts? The rear door post had to have an angled brace as shown because as a roadster there was need to stiffen the post for "slamming the doors". The front post not only avoided the slamming issue, but was firmly braced at the top by the curved cowl as shown in photo. So my current thinking is that it was simply welded/riveted to top and side of steel sill using a couple of integral plates.
  10. The lower cowl/front door post for my '31 CD8 Roadster had been chopped off and modified by a PO as shown. I would like to restore this area to something close to what was originally there. I have made proper steel 1.75"x2.9"angle sub sills and plan to secure posts to side and top of sill if I can get some sense of what detail looked like. Rear door post has an L bracket which riveted to steel angle on both top and side of post as shown in photo..
  11. 1939 Chevy Truck Parts

    These negotiations on price/location/availability should be off-line (use private PM's), the rest of us are not interested in the associated "wheeling/dealing". etc. It does underline the need to follow the forum guideline, if listing items for sale, indicate condition, price and location at outset to save everyone a lot of back and forth.
  12. 1929 Chev 194 main cap check ball ?

    Yes, that is the advice offered on VCCA. Unless car is parked for a prolonged period on a steep hill facing uphill, ball bearing serves on purpose.
  13. Dodge Brothers serial number help

    '24-'26 Dodges have this body style, where the cowl has a distinct separation from the line of the front doors. From '27 forward, the hood/cowl/doors were in a smooth line. Images indicate 1924 models had only 2 hinges on rear suicide door, while 1926 models had 3 hinges like your car. Some '25 images have 2 hinges and others 3. So I'm suggesting 1926, possibly 1 year earlier.
  14. 1928 sedan

    Based on bullet style headlight buckets, 1928 Peerless. Prior years used the drum style, and I think 1929 went to a different rad shape.
  15. Help... hood ornament??

    Often these parts are so hard to ID because they are essentially useless cosmetics. The Big 3 were always trying to outdo each other with doodads to help in marketing their land yachts. In this case, if the "bombs" were intended to help protect the bumper, does anyone think they actually worked? At least the vertical bumper bars helped prevent higher bumpers from over-riding the bumper and damaging the trunk area. These Bombs??? Oh well what's another 20 lbs.