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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946
  1. Convertible Top Rails - from what car?

    Reads (unknown car), probably no help. My '31 Chrysler Roadster has 6 pieces each side, of similar sizes, thought these are clearly different, and only 5 per side. If you do some trial layout, you can likely figure approximately how they assembled to create a 3-bow top. The longest pieces likely went to the front bow over windshield, and the ones with the curve on end connected to a pivot bolt just back of door post. Many such sets had a small part to act as a sort of hinge to lock them when open. Here is picture of '31 Chrysler Roadster bows.
  2. Mystery sedan and roadster.

    Thinking Convertible Coupe rather than Roadster, different bumperettes may be a clue to year/make/model. Bumperette's on original photo remind me of 1929 Willy's Knight, i.e. 2 painted pipes.
  3. I need help identifying

    Based on sharp angle of bottom, a car with a very rakish windshield. Very nice

    I'm not in the market for one of these great cars, but this is a beauty from a whole other era!
  5. Studebaker Identification

    I believe there is an AACA recognized category for "period hotrods/modified cars" which your car seems to fit nicely as it is perhaps 50 years old. Great magazine article from 1974, thanks for sharing, would love to see a current photo of what is likely a rare car.
  6. Chrysler dash identification

    And RHD!
  7. Old dash

    Center badge says Chrysler/Plymouth running across vertical stuff, so yes 1928 Ply.
  8. What to do during idle time.

    Gordon Lightfoot has a great song about the Wreck of The Edmund Fitzgerald, I never knew what it looked like. Sank in Lake Superior maybe? Anyway, good work. I figure I have about 400 hours in the Bluenose, perhaps 50 or so to go. At a modest $20/hr, not counting material, I figure about $10,000 at cost for the Bluenose, maybe a bit more if I add overhead! Cheers
  9. Car make, year?

    Some interesting detail variations between the two... bumper shape, side aprons (yellow car's appear to be homemade), hub caps, etc. Very nice rare car no doubt.
  10. What to do during idle time.

    I started this model of the famous fishing/racing schooner "Bluenose" in 2006, a couple of years before my first old car purchase, a 1931 Deluxe Chevrolet Coach. While I started with a Billings Boats kit, very quickly I realized that a good build really meant abandoning the kit stuff (such as that awful cheap stand) and scratch building all except the basic timbered hull, which has dozens of nailed planks. 12 years later, using it as a stress reliever from the old car hobby every so often, it is ready for rigging/sails and launching. I built a stylized ramp for it and interestingly, shortly after I started the build, the real Bluenose went in drydocks for a full $25M rebuild. It is now back in the water as Nova Scotia's "Sailing Ambassador".
  11. Hudson Museum Closing Controversy

    So often well intentioned municipal officials, for either political of emotional reasons take on projects that are bound to be losers in the long term. They typically don't put together a realistic long term business plan (one that at least extends past the capital financing), and they typically under estimate the operating costs, and over-estimate revenue. They do it constantly for swimming pools, rinks, community buildings, and Museums, many of which either close within 15 years, or face huge operating losses (paid by tax payers). As a result, property tax payers wind up paying for someone else's dream/bad idea/lack of forethought. My guess is the local municipality will lose money on this endeavor in the end, but have allowed the senior Hostetler's to realize their initial wish. In the end, probably best for the nice cars to be dispersed to a few collections or co0llectors where they can enjoy their next life.
  12. Recently found '31 CD8 Roadster

    Yes I got a good title with the car as a 1931 Chrysler Roadster Coupe, and have transferred title to me. I know chain of ownership from 1953-2014 when I bought the car, and there was never a ? of title. However there is a wrinkle. The 6-digit # used to register the vehicle back in the 50's appears to have been an Engine or Chassis number. While striping the car for re-build I found the serial number plate (Ser # 9820125, a Canadian CD8#) on passenger door post. I've spoken briefly with the local DMV about the procedure to have proper Ser # put on title document. While number on title may have come from frame rail way back, that area of frame was reinforced many years ago with steel plate so original chassis # can no longer be found. Also if an engine # had been used, car has had at least 3 engines since the early 50's so that source for the 6 digit number is not going to work. I would like to get this sorted out, but it is not an issue unless I decided to sell car and a new buyer wanted it sorted.
  13. Mercury Montcalm

    My Dad was a "Mercury" guy for many years from 1950-1970, and as we lived in a rural area on 2-3 acres, when a car had lost it's mechanical fitness, he simply drove them to a spot in the woods about 200 feet from the house and left them there, would have been 3 or 4, 1954-1965 models. They were still there in the mid-eighties when he sold the property. I don't know what eventually became of them, but suspect a mobile crusher eventually did it's dirty work.
  14. Multi vis vs. oil pressure?

    There are so many articles and points of view written about use of oils in older engines one could write a long book. Much of the discussion deals with use of modern oils with declining levels of zinc, which was a valuable additive relating to V8's of the 60's and 70's, when it acted to keep wear surfaces "repaired". Close tolerance modern engines benefit from synthetics, whose slickness helps keep parts lubricated at high RPM's and minimizes wear or overheating. My understanding was that for older engines (pre-war), where close tolerances is not the issue, and where there is a need for "stickiness" to keep parts lubricated especially when the are left to sit for extended periods, that regular weight "non-synthetic" engine oils are best, they have the right combination of being sticky, and viscous enough to meet the designed engineering needs of such engines. As someone suggests, the worst of these is likely as good as the best available in the 30's. A decent 10/30 oil kept filled and changed annually will do, and if there is no filter, common for old engines, check regularly for signs of dirt in oil. Just my $2C worth.
  15. What is this 1930s bumper guard fit?

    I see some '30 Buick's as well with this. Clearly for a two-bar bumper which mostly went out of style after 1931. Images on Google of course can show nice cars with bumpers from the previous or following year. Anyway, definitely Buick, no problem K31, you are now only at 99% accuracy! BTW, is there a common word used for this item, bumper guard, center medallion, etc? I have never considered these as "guards" reserving that term for the ones that protrude well above or below the bumper bars to protect against another car's bumpers overriding the bumper bar.