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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946

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  1. 1932 Dodge DK-8 front bumper

    Can you post it's overall length? Thanks
  2. But Is It Really A Blight Issue?

    While he may not have intended to, it is a junkyard period. Aside from being a general eyesore and it's potential to devalue adjacent property, there are serious potential environmental issues related to oil and other fluids seeping into ground and possibly wells in area. I think the local government is doing him a favour by forcing him to get rid of the junk and avoid a potential longer term disaster. Locally we have a Resource Recovery Board that pays owners and wrecking companies a few hundred dollars per vehicle and comes and removes old vehicles from your property. If his community has/had one, he could make $40,000 on 200 cars.
  3. 1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    The Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) gave me great guidance on this refitting exercise. While none of it was rocket science, there is a great deal to learn including the nature of the gravity drains on the end bearings (they have a small ball stop), ensuring dippers are on correctly (mine had been installed backward by a PO!), ensuring oil distributor and pump/screen are all good etc. Finally, installing a new oil pan gasket involves a tricky procedure in area where it rounds end bearings. If not done correctly, oil leaks are likely. Cheers
  4. 1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    When I (not a mechanic, just a tinkerer) refurbished the "noisy" bottom end of my Chev's 194CI 5 years ago, it was recommended by VCCA tech experts that rod caps be adjusted with a clearance of about .001 on journals (they say factory settings were between .0005 and .001). This is accomplished by removing shims if any are still in place between the cap and rod. Rather than using plastigage it was recommended I do one rod at a time, removing shims and tightening rod to point crank will not turn, then adding .001 of shim each side of cap and torgue up. This repeats for all 6 rods. Turns out my rods had about average .004 clearance on journals, causing most of the "noise" in my car. There were about .005 of shims on each cap. As for the 3 bearing points, these still have some play and I removed all remaining shims on those. They are not as tight as I would like, but to correct that would require sending engine for rebuild involving re-babbitting, correcting crank journals, re-boring etc, min $2000-$4000 I'm guessing. Finally, some piston slap is also present, but again without a rebuild, cannot be eliminated. My rods had a small lateral movement, but since I was not planning a rebuild, I did not measure it. Cheers
  5. for sale, good set of 4 1929 Dodge DA 19" wood spoked wheels with split rims and drums. Spokes solid, wheels/drunms were sandblasted and then left unprotected by PO, so have surface rust. Another sandblasting would yield excellent steel ready for prime/paint. Asking $US175 plus transport.
  6. 1929/1930 Marmon Hubcaps

    These 3 hubcaps came on the set of 19" Marmon Wire Wheels shown (wheels not for sale). Restorable, backs are clean and generally rust free, fronts have surface rust only. These are solid caps, no skins, all spring clips work. Fit 6.5" hubcap hole. Could be used on any similar wire wheel as they have no specific identification. Would like $100 for all 3 plus transport or make offer.
  7. Chrysler Master Parts List (pre 1934) lists 5 rad filler Cap #'s for these cars. For CM6 they list #322654 as standard for all (wings only?), and 323076 (with gazelle ornament?) as non standard for CM and it appears as standard for all CI models. For CD's, initial standard cap for first 9000 cars (out of about 24,000) is 320865 (likely wings only). Later CD8's, CD* Deluxe, CG and CP used (with gazelle ornament) # 316696. This was available as an option on CO and CT. Finally #391151 (includes gazelle ornament) was standard equipment on CH, CP and CQ (1932 thru 1934). I'm guessing it is this last part number (or an even later casting) that had the open area between front legs. Book does not list your piece's number 314761, but that just means your's is likely either an earlier or later casting, and as such your number may appear in a parts book of say pre 1940, or pre1932. Anyway, you have a nice cap, if you are open to an offer send me a pm.
  8. These Winged/Gazelle caps started in late 1930 I believe as an accessory for 1931 Model Chryslers. The factory rad cap was a Winged base without Gazelle, this photo shows the larger 5.5" one for a CD8 model sitting on a CM6 rad shell, note it does not fit neck hole. 2 different size caps were made, one to suit the Chrysler 6cyl CM series and one to suit the 8cyl Chrysler CD8 series as well as the Chrysler Imperial CH models. As I understand it, the Gazelle was the identical size/interchangeable for both 6's and 8's, and the early Gazelles all had solid area between front legs as per the original photo. However, the base it screws to was made in 2 different sizes. The CM6 base was about 4.5" long and fitted into a 2&5/8" diameter rad shell neck hole, and the CD8/CH series base was 5.5" long and fitted into a 2&7/8" diameter neck hole. Regarding the additional length, a CD8 rad shell is about 1.25" deeper at it's top than a CM6 rad shell, thus the need for added length for the CD8 base. Radiator was also larger, thus the larger neck. At some point later, (perhaps mid 1932/33, the Gazelles appeared with an open area between front legs. The cap you show appears to be the larger CD8/CH cap. As far as I know, all "horns" were spiral initially, many have since been rechromed and have lost that detail. I have both rad shells here, and although they look identical at a glance, they are virtually different in every detail, different depth, different bead width, different neck size and location, different mounting brackets, different location for headlight bar hole, different grill (CD8's adjust with thermostat control, CM6's are fixed), etc. TMI, I sure wish I had known this before I bought by mistake a CM6 rad shell that has been advertised as CD8! The second photo show images from the original CD8 sales brochure, note winged cap, rad shell painted body color except for the chrome beading. I am rebuilding a CD8 roadster and plan to follow this original design. Although the Chrysler design team thought the painted shell gave the cars a longer sleeker look, the customers expressed a desire for a chromed shell and later models had chrome shells.
  9. Thinking this is Plymouth circa 1931 (actually appears to be for Model 30U), shell is solid and straight, surface rust, only damage is in neck area as shown, complete with badge and mounting bracket. Asking $100+actual postage, item is in eastern Canada, any interest, drop me a PM.
  10. What is it??

    I'm guessing about 1/2 horse power! While we snicker at what some early constructors may have had for ideas, we need to reflect on the challenges and uncertainty of how to move out of the buggy era. This guy appears to have had a leg up on everyone else.
  11. What is it??

    Amazing how many people post a topic in the "What is it" forum and title their post "What is it". Please people, be more descriptive!!! "Walking Car?" would have gotten everyone's attention. Nick8086, perhaps you can edit title.
  12. My '31 CD8 Roadster came to me with the steel folding side irons but very little left of the original wood bows which would have been screwed to the side irons. The only pieces left were about 3" of the very ends of the middle bow. It appears original, and was screwed to the side iron with a rusty #10 Robertson head screw! My car was assembled in Windsor Ontario Canada, and I understand from some reading that Robertson head screws were a Canadian patent from about 1909, and Ford used them in their Canadian production, but not in USA. Am I right to suggest likely Chrysler plant in Windsor also used Robertson head screws rather than the more common slotted screw?
  13. 35 Auburn 851 Cabriolet barn find

    What a great project start, the better the starting price, the more likely someone will justify the bigger cost to restore. Not a cheap restoration if to show quality, perhaps $100K. The nice thing about restoring a rare beautiful car is the enjoyment of owning and caring for a car literally no one else has. Like a pretty woman, you never get tired of looking at! Good luck. (and excuse the chauvinism).
  14. Recently found '31 CD8 Roadster

    Fenders are a challenge. I have the original 4 that came with car (see original posting photos), the 2 fronts look authentic, but have had a ton of patch work over their near 90 year life. Bought a pair of better supposedly '31 CD8's from Arizona, turned out to be close, likely 1932 CP8's, may be able to make something using both pair. The rears appear to be close to Chrysler CD8, but have a series of cuts made in them at back portion to give them the proper rear sweep and a handmade rear V mold. So I'm thinking they are from something else, and were altered to look correct. Spoke to a bodyman who suggested all 4 could be restored to suit at perhaps $700-$1200 per fender plus priming/painting. A contact has a pair of CD8 fronts, one very good, one rougher for sale circa $3500+transport. I'm leaving that decision for down the road. Will be sending engine for rebuilding in next 2 weeks, and that will likely take 3-6 months. In meantime, I will address issues with body fit, lower sheet metal, complete dash install, etc, and begin to address rest of mechanical refit, brakes, Ujoints, shock refit etc. No shortage of jobs.