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About 1957buickjim

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/09/1959


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    Generally looking for Fun and a good time! Love cars and working on them.

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  1. 1957 1958 glove box door, metal or padded

    Pete, If 'm not mistaken, there is a curvature to the metal on the parts, so perhaps just a brake, shears and a spot welder may not be all you need. Just something to consider.
  2. 57 body bolt length ?

    Mack, Not sure about the bolt length, I'll try to find it tonight. As for the body mounts, why don't you just buy the ones from Bob's Automobilia or CARS. They already have the steel sleeve molded in and are the right thickness / height for the car. It would save you a lot of work and trial by error with the mount height / fit to the frame. Just a suggestion. More to follow.
  3. 57 wagon rear window problem

    Nice job! I'll have to remember that when I'm putting mine back together.
  4. 57 wagon rear window problem

    Hate to tell you, but there is no diagram. Best if you took pictures while you were removing it and could reference them with the notes you took while did-assembling the trim. The clip access holes have to be drilled through the window seal all the way along, and then install the clips on the trim, install the trim clips through the holes into the inside of the liftgate, then install the barrel nuts to tighten the trim down. That is what you will need to do to get the trim to snug up against the seal and glass. Good luck!
  5. Mike, You can get one made if you have a pattern, like the passenger door. They are the same design. It is flat, tempered glass and any automotive glass place should be able to make it for you. The green tinting is an automotive standard. This is a lot better option than used glass. Hope that helps.
  6. Hi Doug, You have to drop the column from under the dash. Take off the lower trim piece under the PNDLR and trans shift lever. Stamped metal piece, held on by 2 screws. then loosen / remove the two 9/16 nuts holding the steering column to the IP / Dash. The steering column should start to fall when you are lowering the nuts.There is a die cast bracket that "clamshells" the steering column to the IP, which is held on by the fasteners. It will all make sense when you remove the trim from under the steering column. That should give yo enough play to work with the bracket to the cowl duct cover as well as get the rag joint installed as falt as you can. Then in the terms of the shop manual, reverse the procedure. Hope that explains it for you.
  7. Hey Doug, Yes, with your rag joint, it is a bit of a bugger to get the new one back in place, as the diameter for the pins are smaller. The part is a very common GM part, and one can buy it from the local AutoZone, O'Rielly, NAPA parts guys. I think my kit cost about $15-18 USD with all the new bolts, pins etc. I've done it with the Old Bessie (Sedan) and just recently with the Wagon. Always good insurance when you are working on the steering. Just make sure to tighten them up each a little at a time, and also, it works better if the steering column is loose, or disconnected from the dash. It will set better between the steering shaft and the steering gear, then attach the steering column back to brackets (cowl duct) and IP/Dash connection. Just giving you a lessons learned public service announcement. Good luck! Jim
  8. 1958 rear bumper braces

    Looking good, Pete! Love the color combination.
  9. 1957 Buick Special Restomod Project

    Hey Gary! How about an update? Got her on the road yet? Looking forward to finding out whats happening on your project! Jim
  10. '57 rear window quarter panels

    Gary is correct on that. 2DR HT is body specific. Sedans (2DR and 4DR) and 4DR HT are interchangeable between Buicks and Olds. If you need clear ones, I can help as well.
  11. Same here! Looking forward to it!
  12. Unfortunately, the 57 2dr sedan is totally different in the door glass area than a hardtop.
  13. 1958 Caballero

    Joe, looks fabulous! Can't wait to see it in person! WOW!!!!