Luv2Wrench

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Everything posted by Luv2Wrench

  1. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    Since we're talking about jacks and jack stand safety... if you are buying jacks stands these days you might want to re-weld them. Almost all brands/models are two pieces of stamped steel joined with, get this... a spot welded butt joint. That shouldn't even be a thing (and I likely just made up that term). If you look at your stands you'll see what I mean. I had a set of 3 tons holding my modern sedan up and I took a break for the night. Being the paranoid type that I am, I had another set of jack stands positioned next to the jack stands but at a slightly lower level (obviously you can't get them tight up against the frame). When I went under the car that morning I noticed that the secondary set of jack stands was now tight against the frame. One of the other jack stands had split right at that spot welded butt joint. I've attached a picture and circled the area I'm talking about... the joint runs all the way up the stand under the sticker... same for the other side. Mine had 4 spot welds. I threw them in the garbage, bought 5 ton jack stands, took the stickers off (the one that warns against modifying the jack stand) and had them re-welded with a true continuous butt weld.
  2. Amazing how much gets turned off.
  3. Amazing works as usual, you sure don't disappoint!!
  4. 1952 MG TD

    Yes, wood frame with sheetmetal wrapped around and nailed. The wood on this poor guys is 90% gone... not just rotted, but decomposition cycle complete gone. Thanks! I made the cabinet long enough to handle axles and it has worked out very well.
  5. 1952 MG TD

    Very excited to start a new project that is very similar to the Metz Roadster project. The MG TD is also a basket case and my daughter is also going to be helping. The differences, however, are pretty big. The MG TD was a running car that was disassembled for a restoration that was never completed, the sheet metal is in near perfect condition and was, at one time, ready for paint. Unlike the Metz, parts for the MG TD are available online... very different from the Metz. This is also a different daughter, as this is my younger daughter and she will be joining the project this summer after she returns from her freshman year in college. I hate to interrupt the Metz restoration just as I had finally gathered/reproduced the missing items but the chance to work on the MG TD with my daughter this summer might be a once in a lifetime opportunity. While the Metz is an interesting car to me, the MG TD is an amazing looking car to my daughter and thus very interesting to work on. We can also order parts and spend our time working on the car rather than making parts (though that process is growing on me). Here is a picture of the engine, parts (and junk), main body and chassis parts. The body, engine and transmission are all number matching so this is a real car and not an "accumulation of parts" like the Metz. It appears the car was last on the road in 1978. Yes, you see MGA parts here and there. The MG TD was being restored along with an MGA and MGB GT. My parts include a fair number of MGA parts though the MGA is nowhere to be found. The person I bought the TD from still has the MGB GT and it is for sale. The plan is to sort parts, rebuild engine/transmission while waiting on daughter to finish first year of college. Once she gets home we'll get the chassis painted and assembled. From there it will be body work/paint, assembly and then interior. (I must chuckle at how simple the plan seems...)
  6. 1952 MG TD

    Working on a "basket case" restoration is like working on a puzzle without the box top to show you what it looks like. In this case it is even more difficult because I don't have all the pieces and pretty much none of the special BSF nuts and bolts. Today that changed!! I picked this guy up for a reasonable price. The engine is seized, the body is rusted through and it has no usable interior parts... but it is a great "box top" and a great supply of nuts and bolts.
  7. Dangerous hydraulic jack

    Agreed, I'm not sure what the part is called either, but I've attached a picture with it circled. You might have a different model, but that 'cup' is supposed to be on the jack you have. Without that cup it will slide off every time. Granted you never trust them anyway and only use them to lift and then secure with jack stands.
  8. JV puts his machining skills where is mouth is as well... I wouldn't have my Hendey lathe running if it weren't for him.
  9. So there's nothing on the lap but the paste? Did you fabricate the hold downs or is that something easily purchased?
  10. maybe he should have swapped the tow vehicle with the vehicle he was towing!!
  11. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Yep, that's the set, though I paid the full price, no special when I ordered mine. It seemed like the end of the world when I purchased them mainly because the plain steel nozzles didn't last more than a couple of hours. At the time I had no idea there was that big a difference. They mentioned one carbide was 30x longer than a ceramic but I was using the plain steel ones at the time. I didn't realize that the ceramic was way better than plain steel and thus the carbide was nearly infinitely better than the plain steel.
  12. It really is brilliant, thanks for posting the extra pictures to give us some context!!
  13. 1960 MGA Restoration

    I think the basic problem is the Clogmaster 2000 was designed to clog. I know that when I first tried a syphon gun (Crapmaster 150) in a cabinet it was terrible, it could hardly pick up any media. I later got a nice syphon gun from TP Tools and the difference was incredible... mind you the rest of the system was unchanged. The only problem I had with it was the nozzles wore out super fast. TP Tools sold carbide nozzles for just under $450,000 (which I thought was expensive) but I've using the same nozzle for over 2 years. Out of curiosity (boredom more likely) I took the two guns apart and compared them. While the TP Tools gun had larger diameter passage ways, the biggest difference was were the passageway changed directions it was a nice radius whereas the Crapmaster 150 would have a 90 turn. The Clogmaster 2000 probably has twice the number of fittings that would need the same attention to detail in the design that likely didn't happen. I have an similar model of the Clogmaster and I took it apart (OK, I'll admit, it clogged one time too many and I beat it to pieces with a baseball bat) and it looked to me that the bottom 'T' fitting was probably where the main problem was. It seemed that one might be able to replace all the various fittings with larger diameter and it would work better. By this time, however, I had the TP Tool syphon gun and I just stuck the feed hose in a bucket and blasted away outside. Chris: What paint are you using on the chassis parts? I really like the sheen.
  14. Joe, looking nice. Do you have a picture of the original parts that you're making? Maybe where it fits on the engine?
  15. Nice job... took me a couple of read throughs to understand that the non-brass part was a fixture to hold the flange so you could turn it and probably other steps to come. I think I got mesmerized by the nice pictures and didn't read the captions!!
  16. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Fantastic job and so motivating!!!
  17. 1952 MG TD

    Chris, I very much thought the same. I figured I'd just poke my head in there and see what was what. I found multiple sites with great information and it really turned out to be one of the less complicated parts of the car.
  18. 1918 Rauch and Lang

    I gotta a little bit of motion sickness just imaging it at 7'6" tall on and on full elliptical springs...
  19. 1952 MG TD

    Thanks Paul. I'm using iMovie on a Mac. It works fairly well as long as you don't need to do anything more than drop clips into the timeline and insert some transitions. You can do some basic editing on each clip and insert some titles and whatnot but it is pretty basic (it comes free with the operating system). Here's the 3rd part where we stumble our way through taking the engine apart. One of the issues with the MG Workshop Manual is that it is written from the perspective of fixing a certain item, like the oil pump or water pump. It doesn't really serve as a guide to tearing down the entire engine at once.
  20. 1952 MG TD

    The machine shop called and, finally, I got some good news about the engine. He magnafluxed everything and found no issues. Valves and guides are fine. Camshaft is fine. Crank is fine but will need a 20 thousandths grind so I'll get 20 under main bearings and rod bearings. Cylinders were fine but were pretty rough at the top. They were already 60 thou over so we're taking them out to 100 thou over. Everything cleaned up great and head was nice and flat so only needs a skim. I've order the parts and they should be here next week. I also ordered gearbox parts as well as chassis and brake parts. I'm probably going to switch the plan up a bit and shoot for a rolling chassis a little sooner. Space is really tight and I still need the shop for occasional vehicle maintenance and repairs (6 cars in the family) so I think the best place to store things is, well, on the car and in a state where it can be rolled around. Here's a link to the next video. These videos are a little boring as their primary goal is to help me remember how I took the things apart so that I have some hope of putting them back together. In addition, I'll apologize ahead of time for repeatedly calling the gearbox a transmission.
  21. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Wow that really looks sharp!! I'm getting ready to place a big order with Moss that should cover the engine and gearbox rebuild along with a bunch of suspension stuff. I can't wait to get where you are!
  22. 1952 MG TD

    I'll be creating videos as I go. They will be a little behind the posts in here but might contain some additional information. Here is the first one.
  23. Even after all you've done, this is still mind blowing. Those letters are smaller than the letters on the quarter. Incredible.
  24. Yep, me too. Still watching. Long ago ran out of amazement. I remember that day you made the mold for the tire and I realized what that meant and where you were taking this project. I was astounded then and have continued to be as time has gone on.