24 Roadster

Anyone know a good supplier for a 6.00-20 tires?

How do you know when dry rot is so bad the tires need to be replaced

I just removed my water on my 24 about a month ago. I marked the shaft and also put vice grip jaws on the Shaft with the vice grip handles resting on the frame to hole the timing in place. I made sure I did not turn the engine. Removed water pump and replaced the flex disks and repaired the water pump. Assemble back together, lining the shaft just as it was before and engine fired right back up. This may not be clear but it worked for me without retiming.

My 24 is positive ground.

Got it. Points are installed. Thanks for the help.

It's not a screwdriver head. Long screw that screws in horizontal to a post. 1/4 head but can not be started with a wrench.

OK, I have a dumb question. Does anyone know a trick to installing the stationary point on a 24 DB? I don't want to take the distributor apart and loose my timing but there is not enough room to screw the stationary point into the holder. Maybe my fingers are just too big. Thanks in advance, 24 Roadster

I have felt for the rear main that I have not installed on my 24. They are 1/2 inch square by 8 inches long. The length has to be trimmed to fit.

That's just how my father viewed DB and Ford. He beat it into my head that there was no comparison between DB and Ford. He never owned a Ford car. He bought his 24 DB Roadster out of a junk yard in 1934 for $50 when he was 16 years old. Learned to work on engines because of this and as a result he was an airplane mechanic in WWII and not on the front line. Before he died he made me promise him I would take care of the Dodge. I honored his request and the 24 Roadster is still part of the family and running great. I will make the same request of my son.

I would also question if this was a 5 main brg engine as claimed.

Thanks, I had the engine out so not a big deal. I wanted to clean and put new grease in anyway. How do I know when the grease is at the correct level? There is a plug on the end of the worm gear box. Is it full when grease comes out this hole? Or is there some other way to know when its full?

I have run out of travel on my eccentric bushing to remove slack in my steering box. I am going to rotate the worm wheel to try removing the slack. I have removed the worm gear cover. Just to shorten the learning curve, can someone tell me the procedure on removing and rotating the worm gear? Also, when lubricating the gear box, how do you know when it is full? Thanks in advance for your help, 24 Roadster

Yes, I saw that info. I also have a book that gives the spec of all DB car from 1914. (The Dodge Story by Thomas McPherson). It says the 1914 to 1917 was a 213 cu in with 32 HP. Then in 1918 and forward it list a 212 CU in with 24 HP. It also says the 1918 had an improved heaver crankshaft. But it seems to me that the HP should be the same on all engines built from 1914 to 1927 if the same method of measurement is used. Am I missing something? Maybe in 1918 they did change the way they were measuring HP. To further confuse things my dad who bought my 24 Roadster in 1934 also told me it had a 24 HP engine. I don't know where he got this figure from. Wow, I did not know this was going to turn into a bag of worms. Nothing is easy on these old cars. Thanks for all you comments, Any others are welcome

Come on, Someone knows the true history of the early 4 cylinder engine. Did it start out at 32 HP and then go to 24 HP in 1918? Going to a smaller engine does not seem right. Or was it the same size from 1914 to 1927? Roger? Thanks for your help, 24 Roadster

I am putting together some information on the Dodge Brothers for our local car club. Could someone send me the correct info on the 4 cylinder engine from 1914 to 1927 (CID and HP)? I am finding conflicting information. The book I have says the early engine was 32HP and 213CID. Then in 1918 went to a 24HP engine. Is this right? Thanks for your help, 24 Roadster