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About 65VerdeGS

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  • Birthday 08/16/1965

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    Vancouver, BC


  • Biography
    I've owned my '65 Gran Sport since 1983.

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  1. Here's an update on my glass swap project. I picked the car up from the glass shop at 6:00pm the night before I flew out to Argentina. I had no time to quibble over details when I picked it up as I was in a hurry. Suffice to say they got all the windows swapped and it looks great! Here's a pic taken the night I brought the car home. Not a great photo, but you'll see that the tinted glass is now IN: I'll be doing as Pyntre suggests and do some protective masking of the door skin and fender because those door skins are coming off again. To Telriv's point, yes, I gave the glass guy a copy of the Body Manual to assist him with the job. Here's the current state, and what still needs to be done: The driver's vent window won't close fully. I didn't notice this until I drove away. There's a 1/4" gap left after the motor reaches the end of its travel. This means a nice wind howl sets it on the highway... Also, there's quite a bit of 'play' in the regulator as the vent window can be moved by hand on its pivot with a travel of about an inch. The motor will move the vent both ways from fully open to almost closed, but not closed tight. Before the swap this vent worked perfectly. What would cause the failure to fully close, and the excess 'play' in the regulator? The passenger vent closes all the way but binds against the rubber and unless I close it from about halfway open, the motor can't overcome the resistance to the rubber seal. So, I have to push the lower front corner of the vent by hand to fully close it. Both vent windows look to be properly seated in their vent window frames. Is there an adjustment that can be made to the vertical bar shared with the door glass that would provide more clearance to the vent window frame rubber? The door glass fit is really good, in fact, much better than before. Those annoying rattles when going over bumps with the door windows down are almost all gone! I'm really happy about that! The rear quarter windows still need adjusting. One side binds slightly when going up. With the door glass all up and rear quarters up, the alignment looks good. But that's only because the door glass pushes the quarter glass in! Both quarter glass need to come in about 1/4" at the top. Also, the tracks need more greasing as the windows don't go up and down that smoothly. Before the swap, they were kind of rough in action too. Is this 'normal' for these cars - that the rears go up and down roughly? I'll take the door skins off to attempt to fix the vent windows when I get back from vacation. In the meantime, if you have any hints or experience to share with adjusting the vents and rear quarter windows then I'll be glad to hear from you!
  2. Hi Tom and Winston, I borrowed a generic puller which came with an assortment of bolts to thread into the hub. For some reason I could only thread in 1/4" into the two holes. I tried every one of the bolts, and found two that were long enough to clear the puller plate and the hub. I carefully centered the center screw to ensure it was 90 degrees to the hub. I also loosened the nut on the end of the steering shaft as Tom advised. Well... I carefully turned in the center screw and one of the bolts pulled out of the threaded holes! It brought along some metal, about two threads worth. The steering wheel didn't budge away from the shaft at all. So I gave up, not wanting to damage anything further. I put everything back together so I'm back to where I started. I'm guessing the puller kit didn't have the proper sized bolt, so the ones I put in there weren't correctly threaded. That would explain why the bolts would only go in a short way? Can't tell if the steering hub should take coarse or fine thread bolts. I guess I'll have to surrender and go to a mechanic to help me out. Any suggestions where I went wrong? Supposing I stripped the upper 1/4" of one of the hub holes, how do I fix that? Sigh...
  3. Hi Guys, I took my car in on Monday morning to have the glass swap done. The shop guy told me the job should take about a full day. Well, the car has been for 3 days. This isn't because he's spent 24 hours on it, but because he gets called away to put out fires at his other glass shops. I had hoped to get the car back today, but the shop said that although all the new glass is now in, the rear quarter windows aren't aligning properly. No surprise there! I think this is the first Riv the guy has done, despite having done classic car glass for over 20 years. He asked me a bunch of questions about the car and was impressed and surprised to learn that the outer door skins come off! All the guys in his shop, and the 20 -something receptionist came out to admire the car and ask questions. I think they'd never seen anything like it. Anyhow, the guy working on my car said the swap went pretty well, which is a bit of a surprise considering the car is almost 54 years old. The only problem (other than the rear quarters alignment) was that a bolt broke off when he unbolted the driver's door glass. He heated it up and got the thing apart, got a new bolt, etc. So back on track there - pardon the pun! He used a specialized punch of some sort to break out the vent windows so as to minimize stress on the vent window regulator pivot post. If that sucker breaks then the adventure begins to find a replacement part! Here's what the car looked like when I visited today at noon. Tomorrow he'll work on improving the alignment of the rear quarters. My fingers are crossed he'll get it close enough, as I know this isn't an easy job.
  4. I'm replacing the chrome bezel beneath the hub of the (simulated) wood steering wheel with a newly chromed one. This bezel appears to be the same for all Rivieras with tilt wheel. There are slots in this bezel for the tilt wheel lever, and turn signal lever. My question: Is the procedure to remove the steering wheel as described on page 8-5 of the '65 Shop Manual the same for the optional wood wheel? The shop manual shows only the standard steering wheel and associated parts. I know the wood wheel parts are different, and wonder if the removal procedure is therefore different. I have a generic puller kit with a slotted plate and various bolts to thread through the plate. This isn't the J-3274 puller illustrated in the Shop Manual. I must presume it'll work fine, with a bit of fiddling. Anyone have experience with removing the wood steering wheel that can advise me? Thanks,
  5. Hi lrlforfun, Thanks for sharing your experience with swapping out the glass in your Riviera. I think the swap will enhance my car as it did yours. The green tint should complement my car's dark green paint rahter well. To your post, I can offer this: 1. I had both outer door skins off earlier this summer to adjust the vent windows which were binding on the vertical post. All the "T" bolts/nuts on my doors are good, so that shouldn't present a problem. I've figured out how to get the remote mirror off - just unscrew the bracket that holds the chrome diamond-shaped trim piece from behind (2 screws) and the toggle stick will be free to slide through the hole in the inner metal door panel. 2. I found a glass guy that works on classic cars who says he can do the window swap. I'm basically prepping the car by removing the rear seat and inner door panels so he can access the rear quarter windows. Doing that also saves me money. The glass dude came recommended to me by the owner of a well-regarded local restoration shop. This glass guy says he can swap the vent windows, door and rear quarter glass. He'll also be swapping the back window. He's got an employee who has worked in auto glass for 40 years, so that should be a bonus. The only gotcha is that there aren't many early Riv's out there so he may not be as familiar with the ins and out of our cars. So, I want to prepare him as best I can by doing things like giving him a copy of the '65 Body Manual, just in case. My car goes in on Monday. Wish me luck! PS - I'd be really interested to see photos of your Riv, before and after the glass swap. Verde green with a white interior sounds striking! Let me know if you have pics to share. A recent photo of my Riv is posted here: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/150093-post-some-pics-of-your-rivieras/?page=44
  6. Thanks Jan for posting the YouTube video. Unfortunately the poster only put up Part 1. There doesn't seem to be a Part 2 up as yet. Anyhow, it does give a good idea of what's involved in taking out the rear quarter window . Going to be taking the back seat and panels out this weekend to take a look.. Cheers,
  7. I've used the Adams Spray Detailer and it works very well. It has a nice fragrance, despite the strange pinky color of the liquid itself. This product, and others of its type, which are probably just as good, are intended to be the final step to giving your car that smooth, wet look to help your paint 'pop' at a show. Before using the spray detailer have your car cleaned and waxed. I use Zaino liquid wax. The Adams line is sold by distributors (and eBay?), not in retail stores. Not cheap, but it is a good product. My 2.5 cents worth.
  8. Hi Tom, Where can we see your posting of items for sale? Will you post on this forum, or on the Buy/Sell, or Buick for Sale forums? Looking forward to seeing what you have available. Cheers,
  9. Great news that your restoration is finally going well. The guy that restored the body on mine took 18 months to do it. It was a bit frustrating to have to wait so long. But it was worth it. He stripped the car right down to bare metal and gutted all the rust, replacing with new metal - the trunk floor, rear window, both rear inner and outer fenders around the back wheels, etc. A stunning job as he was a fabricator and welding magician. I had the car done twice before him and every time the rust would come back. Not this time, as it's been a dozen years and not a spot of tin worm. Hope you're as lucky with your car. I love the Jeep color - that really pops, so good choice! Would love to see how your car progresses through the restoration. So post some pics if you can. Cheers,
  10. Hi lrlforfun, I too want to swap in the Soft-Ray tinted glass for the plain glass in my '65. I found a full set for $200, except windshield. My car has a tinted windshield in decent condition, so I'll leave that in for now. I'm very curious to learn from your experience, so if you don't mind sharing what you learned, that would be great! It was a fair bit of work to clean up the glass, as they'd been stored in a dusty garage for a long time. Luckily, the glass is in pretty good shape, except for one rear quarter window which has two 4" scratches - not too noticeable. Hopefully I can polish the scratches to make them less noticeable. I date coded the tinted glass and the fronts are the bolt-in type, made in Sept and Nov '64 (coded CG and AG). I understand the front door glass should swap out fairly easily. Are there any gotchas I should be aware of? I have no idea how to swap out the vent window glass. I may take it to an auto glass place to have that done. Any tips there? How do you get the old ones out? Short of smashing them out, how is this done? I hear the risk is breaking the pot-metal pivot post, so I'm hesitant to start banging to smash them out. The rear tinted quarter glass is dated Feb '64 (coded XC). Are '64 rear quarter windows a direct fit for a '65? I know they changed the front glass from glued to bolt-in sometime during the '64 production run. But, did the rear quarters change too? The glass I got came bonded to the pot metal chromed bottom frames with an 'arm' having 3 rollers each. The rollers all turn, some kind of roughly. I'll douse them in white lithium spray can grease, which I've heard is the stuff to use to free them up. Did that work for you? Any tips you can offer before I start taking my Riv apart are much appreciated.
  11. Way back in 2002 I attended the ROA Annual Meet at Klamath Falls, Oregon. During the meet, Ray Knott brought video that was shown at one of the tech sessions. The video was a short color factory promotional film, or perhaps an actual TV commercial of the '65 Riviera. I recall being fascinated to see a blue '65 on the screen, being driven on a street, with the clamshell headlight visors in operation featured in what I think was a 30-60 second clip. I've looked on YouTube and haven't found anything similar. Anyone know if Buick produced a promotional film or commercial for the 1965 model? The only real 1st Gen Riviera commercial posted on YouTube is this one, for the '64: this clip.
  12. What percentage of each 1st Gen Riviera ('63-65) was built with the Custom Interior Trim option? Is a breakdown available of the number or percentage produced each of the 3 years? Further, are there numbers out there on how many of each Trim color combination produced?
  13. Kreed's post of his '65 Gran Sport rebuild inspired me to post this photo I took last week:
  14. Hey Kreed - awesome rebulild and absolutely gorgeous! Can you share the history of your Gran Sport? How long have you owned it? Is that a stock exterior color? Very attractive. Congratulations from a fellow GS owner!
  15. Hi Tom, I've been searching the forum for info on swapping out the clear glass for Soft-Ray in my '65 when I came across the info you posted in Aug 2015. Thanks again for being such a valued resource to the Riviera community!