Loren@65GS.com

Thanks, John. After some searching, I do believe it is a '65 Electra ornament. I've informed the seller. Loren@65GS.com

Saw this on eBay advertised as for a 1965 Skylark. I know that is not correct. Can anyone help me identify it, please? Loren@65GS.com

It's been a while since Mr. Farrington has been online here. Last date of being on the forum was May 2, 2022. I love the body style of the sedanette. Loren@65GS.com

Still on the hunt. Loren@65GS.com

Email sent with tracking number. Thank you, Loren@65GS.com

Hood ornament is SOLD. Thank you Tx 65 Skylark, Loren@65GS.com

Email sent, payment received. Hood ornament will go out today. Thank you, Loren@65GS.com

It is available. Loren@65GS.com

I will check to be sure it is still available. Loren@65GS.com

In your first post, you stated that the horn relay clicked. That would be a sign that the relay is good. The relay doesn't "step down" the voltage. In fact, it should allow full battery or charging voltage, less tenths of a volt, pass through the relay from the attached battery cable on the terminal at the bottom of the relay to the green wire terminal. The black wire terminal as you are referring to, is a ground that activates the relay. That black wire goes up to the horn bar. When the horn bar is pushed, the relay is grounded and activated. As been previously stated in another reply, simply check for power at the wire connection at the horn. I like to use a test light rather than a volt/ohm meter when tracking down a problem. If you have power at the horn connection when you press the horn bar, the circuit is fine. Now you have either bad ground at the horn or somewhere in the sheet metal. Or the horns themselves are bad. And as previously stated, the horns can be tested by adding 12 volts to the terminal and grounding the body of the horn. It should sound. If it doesn't sound, the horn is bad. The horn is simply a vibrating electro-magnet. The internals can corrode, and then it can't vibrate. Best of luck with finding your solution, Loren@65GS.com

A quick internet search showed a couple of others, Python Restoration and Seatbelt Planet. There may be others as well. I have done my own but am not certified. It requires an industrial sewing machine using the correct thread weight and stitch pattern. This is something that you can't do with a home sewing machine. Loren@65GS.com

Here you go. This may help you in finding the location of the code. This was posted by RivNut previously.

The engine codes are on the block at the front of the valley pan right behind the crossover pipe that has the thermostat. On horizontal surface on the passenger side is the engine code. Should be three numbers and two letters. The letters are the engine code. Could be "LT", "LW" or "LX". The "LT" is a 401. The "LW" is a 425 with single four carb. The "X" is a 425 with dual quad. On the driver side of the same surface is the VIN number which would match the cars VIN, if engine is original. Loren@65GS.com

Be prepared for the cost with Snake-Oyl. If careful, could be buffed out. They are plated steel. New correct webbing is available, but the buckle needs to be disassembled to replace it. New red carriage emblems are also available. I've gotten them from The Parts Place. OPGI may also have them since both are now owned by the same company. Loren@65GS.com

I installed an aftermarket stereo in my then new '83 full size Blazer. I wanted it to look factory by using the original knobs. I modified the shafts of the aftermarket radio by filing them to fit the original knobs. Worked out quite well. Loren@65GS.com