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About Vila

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/11/1950

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Mechanicsburg, PA
  • Interests:
    1933 and earlier Chevrolets, all British sports cars, old BMWs, Vespas and home improvements.


  • Biography
    Retired USAF/ANG EC-130 Navigator
  1. Double Clutching

    Ok, here is what I was taught to be double clutching, but like other have said you don't need to do it unless you are in a hurry to shift gears with a non-synchro transmission or if the synchromesh is shot on a synchromesh transmission. 1. If you are grinding when trying to get into first from a stop try this while stopped, especially if you had the car in neutral with the clutch out while at the stop. Push in the clutch and move the shift lever in to the highest gear first then in to 1st all while the clutch is in. 2. Pull out in first gear as described above. 3. When shifting from first to second push in the clutch and shift to neutral, leave out the clutch then push it back in before completion the shift into second where you again let out the clutch to complete the shift. Hence the term double clutch, since you pushed in and released the clutch twice per shift. 4. Whether you are up or down shifting you accomplish the same pattern by going to neutral and letting out the clutch prior to pushing it in a again to complete the shift.
  2. Lottery winnings

    I don't buy lottery tickets either, but if I did and won this would be my plan. First I would need to design and build a new 12 car garage to fit our daily drivers in the current 3 car garage and have space for a vintage fleet with a few open spaces for future expansion. Personally I am not into the big 1930s classics so here is what I would add: 1916 Scripps-Booth Chummy roadster. 1924 - 27 Buick touring 1931 Chevrolet 5 passenger coupe 1941 Graham Hollywood 1955 MGTF 1500 1963 Corvette fuel injected 327 Split Window coupe 1967 Austin Healey 3000
  3. Pictures are worth a 1,000 words!
  4. help please decode engine # on 50s chevy car

    I assume the PAQ440478 is the engine serial number stamped into a flat machined surface. Can you provide the engine block casting number. It should be near the stamped number, and should be a 7 digit number in raised numbers. This should narrow it down:
  5. Letter from the "aaca" museum

    I agree with trimacar and just about everything else said above. When I got the letter I went on the museum website to get their email address and set the following: "As a long time AACA member, I do not agree with your misguided rift with the CLUB. I support the CLUB and would like my name permanently removed from the museums email and mailing lists." I then listed my name and AACA membership number and ask them not to contact me again. If anyone would like to send a similar message, their email address is:
  6. I don't care if a car is in or out of favor, I like and buy what appeals to me and don't care what others think. If the car is out of vogue and you like it then you may get a bargain and if it is in vogue you may need to pay a premium. But on the other hand what is a premium or bargain price.
  7. Can I assume you are presenting two different numbers found on the Stag on two different number plates? The Commission Number should be found on a metal plate attached to the left door pillar. The year and month of manufacture should also be stamped on the Commission Number plate, along with the original paint and trim codes. This is what today is known as the VIN number and should be the number found on your registration. A small plate attached to the front body crossmember beside the LH hood hinge is the body number and is of no value. Is that the number with the UB suffix? There are no Commission numbers that end with UB. The number that ends with UO should be the Commission Number, and I believe the number ending with UB is the body number. The Commission Number is also the reference number used in the original parts manual unless it specifically states a Body number for a part listing I am still trying to figure out what a Federal Stag is vs a Non-Federal Stag, but the LE prefix means the car is a Federal Stag where LD would mean it was a Non-Federal Stag. Not sure if LE means it meets US Federal requirements or just the Federal requirements for which ever country it was shipped to identified by the suffix. In your case the LE means a US Federal Specifiation Stag. The Commission number UO suffix means the car is a "US Federal Specification" Stag fitted with an Overdrive Gearbox. Other suffix codes identify cars with different types of Gearboxs, Kilometer/hr Speedometers, or Left vs Right hand drive. Examples: If it only had a U suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car but not have an overdrive gearbox, or if it had a UBW Commission Number suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car with a Type 35 gearbox. The number between the LE and UO started with the number 1 for the first Stag built in 1971 and when up to 35722 built in 1977, so your car was the 23,622nd Stag built. 1973 Stags began with the number 20001 and ended with the number 25432. The engine number should begin with a LE prefix and end with a UE or UEBW. UE means it is a US Federal Spec engine whereas UEBW means it is a US Federal Spec engine with a type 35 Gearbox. Since your Commission number suffix is UO then you should have an engine with a UE suffix. Cars normally had different Commission, Body, and Engine numbers. It is just by luck if any of these numbers have the same seven digit numbers between the prefix and suffix. A British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate would provide you with the original Commission, Body, and Engine numbers for your Stag, when it left the factory.
  8. Need title for news article

    Granny Gear-heads Repairing Antique Cars
  9. Has anyone used lacquer paint recently?

    TCP Global in California still sells Acrylic Lacquer. I recently bought some and had it shipped to Pennsylvania. Here is what it says on the TCP Global website at: California Residents Please Note: Restoration Shop UB Urethane Basecoat, AL Acrylic Lacquer and related solvents are not compliant for purchase in the State of California and may contain VOC which exceeds the limits in other districts/states.
  10. You can purchase a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate from the British Motor Museum at: I got one for my 1962 Triumph TR4 several years ago and it provides a wealth of information as applicable on your car to include: Commission number, Body number, Engine number, original color combination, options, key codes, date built, port shipped from, dealer shipped to, and more.
  11. Michael, is that Philadelphia South Caroline, LOL?
  12. " 1961 VW Beetle dim tail lights"

    I had a 1960 VW with the same tail light design when I was going to college from 1968 - 72 and yes it had dim tail lights with the factory spec bulbs. I can tell you that even with brighter bulbs they may still be dim due to the extremely small size of the tail light and lens. For safety it would help to have brighter lights, but if you don't want to do to that I would look up the Texas vehicle inspection requirements. Most states require vehicles to meet the standards for the year the car was manufactured which may not be up to par with todays standards, but are normally allowed. If you don't want to make any changes, I would do a web search of the Texas inspection standards and if there is a section on what standards older vehicles need to meet then I would print it out and keep it in the glove box to show the police if your are ever stopped again. When Pennsylvania first started allowing Year of Manufacture (YOM) license plates I printed out a copy of PennDot license place change and keep it in my glove box. Yes one of the first times I drive the car with a YOM plate I got stopped. Showed the officer the new law and everything was fine.
  13. Front brakes Locked up on mgb

    Not sure about a 74 MGB, but when I had my 71 Triumph TR6 back in the 1980s the brakes locked up and it turned out the Brake Servo Unit went bad. After I replaced the Brake Servo the brakes worked fine.
  14. I saw some comments about the market for convertibles dying in the 1970s. I personally don't believe the market for convertibles was dying as much as the manufactures just didn't what to make them. Same issue in recent years for hatchbacks. They were popular several decades ago and then mostly disappeared for a while and now the manufactures are say hatchbacks are making a come back. I have personally always liked hatchbacks next to convertibles and believe the manufactures just quit making them. I have owned 4 Saab hatchbacks over the years, a 1975, two 1986s, and a 1992. Some of the later hatchbacks were just down right ugly designs, but some of the newer designs are looking good and people are buying them again. I blame the manufactures when some car styles go out of vogue for there ugly designs that no one wants and then they have the guts to say they are making a comeback when they come out with a good design and people start buying again.
  15. I am approaching 68 and I bought my 1933 Chevrolet 5 Window Coupe for $900 in 1971. That was considered a fair price at the time. I still own the car and it looks almost exactly the same as when I bought it to include the 1950s paint job. Some parts had been replace like adding a newer 1953 generator, and sealed beam adaptors and headlights, but I found all the original parts under the seat. I returned the headlights to original and put the original generator is back on the car in 1972. The generator and still working today without a rebuild and only needed a new cutout. All chrome is original except the rear bumper that I had plated for $25 plus tax back in 1971 . In 1969 I had looked a a 1963 Split Window fuel injected 327 Corvette with 36,000 miles that was selling for $1,200 and a year later a 1955 MGTF 1500 in very nice condition with 40 some thousand miles that was $1,100. Didn't buy either since I was in college. Work all summer each year of college and made enough to pay for the entire years tuition, housing, and food. Couldn't do that now days.