Vila

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About Vila

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/11/1950

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    http://www.jakegingervila.wixsite.com/bobs-vintage-cars-

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Mechanicsburg, PA
  • Interests:
    1933 and earlier Chevrolets, all British sports cars, old BMWs, Vespas and home improvements.

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  • Biography
    Retired USAF/ANG EC-130 Navigator

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  1. Vila

    Can anyone help identify this old car frame

    I am not say it is Chevrolet, but it is not a 1924 Chevrolets since they had quarter elliptical springs. Also look for numbers on the tie rod ends, axle, etc.
  2. LiBrandi's is near the the Airport in Harrisburg, PA. I have used them many times with outstanding results and have never heard of any complains from others either in person or postings on this website. If they are small parts you should have no problems shipping the parts. http://www.carchrome.com From what I have heard Paul's Chrome is also good. http://www.paulschrome.com Neither one is cheap, but then again you get what you pay for.
  3. Vila

    Knock-off wheel removal

    Here is a very recent posting on what the Triumph Experience website had to say about knock off direction, "Think Opposite". Meaning LH threads on Right and RH threads on the Left. I would read the following posting: https://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?7,1540079
  4. Vila

    ZDDP issues

    There are a few brands in alphabetical order that make oil with high Zinc levels for vintage cars Amsoil ZRod: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2883.pdf Brad Penn: http://trf.zeni.net/featureT6/49.php Hemmings: https://www.hemmings.com/classic-oil Lucas Oil: https://lucasoil.com/hotrods-classic-cars Valvoline VR-1 Racing: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic Racing: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/ff44b91e-cb81-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/8213a6c1-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
  5. Vila

    Frame Originally painted

    If you can't find people to help then you are hanging out with the wrong crowd. People who restore old cars or trucks to original condition generally don't want to hang out with those modifying them. You need to find a group that is into modifying cars or trucks. No where in your original post did you mention modifying, and I would never recommend going to any car forum with the words Vintage or Antique in the sites name for someone modifying them. You will generally run into the same issues you experienced with any forum for Antique or Vintage cars. I am surprised someone hasn't chimed in and hammered you on modifying a vintage vehicle on this forum.
  6. Vila

    What Oil and What Coolant?

    Amsoil Z-Rod is good. Also consider Valvoline 10W30 VR-1 Synthetic Racing Oil or Valvoline Non-Synthetic racing oil. All have higher Zinc levels for older engines. This has been discussed numerous times in older postings. The Zinc level has been reduced in most modern oil to extend the life of catalytic converters, but the modern engines have also been redesigned to handle oil with lower zinc levels. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-full-synthetic-racing-motor-oil https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil
  7. Vila

    Biggest new car per peaves

    Touch screens in cars should be illegal. They are just as bad if not worse than texting on a cell phone. The only way to control anything is by looking at the screen. My daily driver is a 2002 BMW Z3 with all manual control knobs and switches. I can control everything in the car without taking my eyes off the road, just by reaching and feeling the knobs. I would bet you cannot do that with a touch screen and layer upon layer of menus. I am 68 and in 15 years plan on being one of those old geezers driving around sunken down in the seat of my old car, ticking everyone off while I'm driving slow and holding up traffic.
  8. Vila

    Frame Originally painted

    You may want to ask this question on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of American website at www.vcca.org to get an answer from the experts on Chevrolets. They may even be able to tell you whether it was originally a flat, satin, or gloss finish. You should post your question under the 1937 - 1941 section. My 1933 Chevrolet chassis was and still is painted black.
  9. Vila

    Double Clutching

    Ok, here is what I was taught to be double clutching, but like other have said you don't need to do it unless you are in a hurry to shift gears with a non-synchro transmission or if the synchromesh is shot on a synchromesh transmission. 1. If you are grinding when trying to get into first from a stop try this while stopped, especially if you had the car in neutral with the clutch out while at the stop. Push in the clutch and move the shift lever in to the highest gear first then in to 1st all while the clutch is in. 2. Pull out in first gear as described above. 3. When shifting from first to second push in the clutch and shift to neutral, leave out the clutch then push it back in before completion the shift into second where you again let out the clutch to complete the shift. Hence the term double clutch, since you pushed in and released the clutch twice per shift. 4. Whether you are up or down shifting you accomplish the same pattern by going to neutral and letting out the clutch prior to pushing it in a again to complete the shift.
  10. Vila

    Lottery winnings

    I don't buy lottery tickets either, but if I did and won this would be my plan. First I would need to design and build a new 12 car garage to fit our daily drivers in the current 3 car garage and have space for a vintage fleet with a few open spaces for future expansion. Personally I am not into the big 1930s classics so here is what I would add: 1916 Scripps-Booth Chummy roadster. 1924 - 27 Buick touring 1931 Chevrolet 5 passenger coupe 1941 Graham Hollywood 1955 MGTF 1500 1963 Corvette fuel injected 327 Split Window coupe 1967 Austin Healey 3000
  11. Vila

    help please decode engine # on 50s chevy car

    I assume the PAQ440478 is the engine serial number stamped into a flat machined surface. Can you provide the engine block casting number. It should be near the stamped number, and should be a 7 digit number in raised numbers. This should narrow it down: http://www.inliners.org/becks/BCN2.html
  12. Vila

    Letter from the "aaca" museum

    I agree with trimacar and just about everything else said above. When I got the letter I went on the museum website to get their email address and set the following: "As a long time AACA member, I do not agree with your misguided rift with the CLUB. I support the CLUB and would like my name permanently removed from the museums email and mailing lists." I then listed my name and AACA membership number and ask them not to contact me again. If anyone would like to send a similar message, their email address is: info@aacamuseum.org
  13. I don't care if a car is in or out of favor, I like and buy what appeals to me and don't care what others think. If the car is out of vogue and you like it then you may get a bargain and if it is in vogue you may need to pay a premium. But on the other hand what is a premium or bargain price.
  14. Can I assume you are presenting two different numbers found on the Stag on two different number plates? The Commission Number should be found on a metal plate attached to the left door pillar. The year and month of manufacture should also be stamped on the Commission Number plate, along with the original paint and trim codes. This is what today is known as the VIN number and should be the number found on your registration. A small plate attached to the front body crossmember beside the LH hood hinge is the body number and is of no value. Is that the number with the UB suffix? There are no Commission numbers that end with UB. The number that ends with UO should be the Commission Number, and I believe the number ending with UB is the body number. The Commission Number is also the reference number used in the original parts manual unless it specifically states a Body number for a part listing I am still trying to figure out what a Federal Stag is vs a Non-Federal Stag, but the LE prefix means the car is a Federal Stag where LD would mean it was a Non-Federal Stag. Not sure if LE means it meets US Federal requirements or just the Federal requirements for which ever country it was shipped to identified by the suffix. In your case the LE means a US Federal Specifiation Stag. The Commission number UO suffix means the car is a "US Federal Specification" Stag fitted with an Overdrive Gearbox. Other suffix codes identify cars with different types of Gearboxs, Kilometer/hr Speedometers, or Left vs Right hand drive. Examples: If it only had a U suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car but not have an overdrive gearbox, or if it had a UBW Commission Number suffix then it would be a US Fed Spec car with a Type 35 gearbox. The number between the LE and UO started with the number 1 for the first Stag built in 1971 and when up to 35722 built in 1977, so your car was the 23,622nd Stag built. 1973 Stags began with the number 20001 and ended with the number 25432. The engine number should begin with a LE prefix and end with a UE or UEBW. UE means it is a US Federal Spec engine whereas UEBW means it is a US Federal Spec engine with a type 35 Gearbox. Since your Commission number suffix is UO then you should have an engine with a UE suffix. Cars normally had different Commission, Body, and Engine numbers. It is just by luck if any of these numbers have the same seven digit numbers between the prefix and suffix. A British Motor Industry Heritage Trust certificate would provide you with the original Commission, Body, and Engine numbers for your Stag, when it left the factory.
  15. Vila

    Need title for news article

    Granny Gear-heads Repairing Antique Cars