Roger Frazee

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

86 Excellent

About Roger Frazee

  • Rank
    East TN Region
  • Birthday 10/09/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Powell, TN

Recent Profile Visitors

1,038 profile views
  1. March April The Antique Automobile

    I call foul. The Antique Automobile is among the highest in quality of any automotive magazines published. If it has errors it is because it is produced by humans; conscientious hard-working human beings. The photos and editorial content are outstanding month after month. The errors are few and generally insignificant. I'm sure the staff appreciates private notifications when errors occur, but calling them out publicly for their unintentional mistakes is bad form. It's not easy to put together a magazine of this caliber.
  2. Treating Bare Metal

    Thanks to all for the expert advice. I will clean up the bare spots and treat them with epoxy primer. It sounds like that will prevent rust issues while I do the necessary mechanical work and cleanup underneath the car. The car ('63 Corvair Spyder) has been off the road since 1974 and had been stored in the previous owner's dank basement for many years. There is no rust, but there is considerable mold on the top and vinyl, all or which will be replaced anyway. I currently have it in my climate controlled garage. I drove the car on and off of the trailer when I brought it home, and removed the engine last week. It won't be driven again until the restoration is nearly complete.
  3. Treating Bare Metal

    Thanks nickelroadster. I found Eastwood Metal Protect online. Is this the stuff you were referring to?
  4. Treating Bare Metal

    I recently acquired a rust-free '63 Corvair and need advice on keeping it rust free until I am ready to paint it. The previous owner had sanded the entire car. Most of the paint is still there but there are several palm-size bare metal spots where the sander took off too much paint. Tiny specs of surface rust are beginning to form on the bare spots. I am tempted to remove the surface rust with a sander or wire brush, and spray the bare spots with primer from a rattle can. I have not experience with body work and I don't want to create bigger problems through my ignorance. Is there a better way to handle these bare metal areas?
  5. Title Question

    Thanks to all for the solid advice. I contacted the seller and he agreed, without hesitation, to register the car in his name and deliver a fresh title with the car.
  6. Title Question

    I am considering purchasing a project car. The current owner purchased the car twenty years ago but never registered it. What issues, if any, will I have when I try to register a car that has a title that was signed-over by the original owner twenty years ago?
  7. Heirloom Tools

    And what in the heck is this?
  8. Heirloom Tools

    Valve spring tools with special instructions for Essex, Hudson, and Packards.
  9. Heirloom Tools

    Today I opened my grandfather's automotive tool chest for the first time in many years. Inside the box are some very interesting tools that challenge the mind, just trying to figure out what they were designed to do. I'll post pictures of the ones that have be baffled in hopes that smarter minds than mine can explain their function. The first one is, I think, a valve-seat grinder. The unique feature of this tool is that the shaft rotates in one direction when you turn the crank from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock. The shaft turns in the opposite direction from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock. Does anyone know any more about this gadget?
  10. Radiator Woes

    My Overland is a Model 85-4 touring car. It was part of the "Big 4" line. I have attached a picture of the original radiator. Unfortunately, it's a leaker. While the radiator is being re-cored, I'm having the shell restored and a new emblem installed.
  11. Will the pictures that were taken of the winners, by the AACA photographer, be available online?
  12. Radiator Woes

    Kings32, after talking with my radiator guy yesterday and reviewing all of the options, I too decided to go with a less expensive non-original core. The car is a driver, not a show car. The next owners can put an original core back in if they decide to do so. I would be very interested to see pictures of the new core in the '16 Overland.
  13. Radiator Woes

    My 1917 Overland radiator was leaking slightly. It was also full of crud, so I decided to take it to a reputable radiator shop for a once-over. The shop called today and told me that there are several leaks in the core that can't be repaired. They said they would work up a price to build a new radiator core and get back with me. What are my options at this point? Is it even possible to get a square-pattern radiator core, or even a honeycomb core? How much can I expect to pay for a custom-built radiator core? Maybe I should reinstall the old unit, dump a can of stop-leak in it and hope for the best. At least, it would still be original. Any advice from people who have been down this road is appreciated.
  14. Split Rims

    You don't necessarily need a rim jack to compress demount-able (split) rims on early cars. I use a ratchet strap hooked on opposite sides of the rim to compress it. Once the new tire is on the rim, I use a bottle jack and blocks of wood to expand the rim and lock it back into place. It's easy to do. Just be sure to use lots of baby powder on the inside of the tire so your tube won't bind or stick.
  15. Email Security

    Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but phone numbers get spoofed as much, if not more, than email addresses. I get robo-calls every day from stolen cell phone numbers, offering me the chance to lower my credit card interest rates. Also, once a phone number is hacked, it can also be used to send malicious texts. While it may have been a good idea to publish phone numbers in the past, it seems like a dangerous practice today.