Ivan Saxton

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About Ivan Saxton

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  • Birthday 11/04/1940

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  1. Ivan Saxton

    New Engine

    You can see from that side photo that it is typical of 1916. !916 had the rocker shafts parallel to the axis of the crankshaft, and the valves (and valve guides in a straight line.) My friend Jim Formby from Drouin gathered remains of a 1916 from a little town in the Southern Riverina, called Barellan, where his uncle and aunt lived. His uncle, Wellesley Whybrow, happened to notice a little mite of an aboriginal girl , who was obsessed with the sport of tennis; though there was really nothing in town that could carry with grace the description of "tennis court". Yet this littlen girl could belt a tennis ball with such power and accuracy that you might never expect. So
  2. Ivan Saxton

    Braking Distance

    The other end of the continuum is what always interested me more. Same year, the A model Duesenberg would stop from 30mph in 30 feet, and from 50mph in 86 feet. Those figures might have been even better with better tyre compound , and with Houdaille dampers instead of Watson Stabilators. Stuart Middlehurst visited UK and Europe for about a year, and asked me to look after his Burlington bodied 6.5 litre OHC Hispano Suiza in my garage, and use it as if it were my own. I just did not like it, and I considered that the brakes, handling and performance were less attractive than the 1918 Mercer Sporting.
  3. Ivan Saxton

    CADILLAC 1926 314 TOURING FRONT SPRINGS

    It may be good to experiment, using a greater number of leaves that are thinner to get the same stack height but with a slower oscillation rate because more leaves in sliding contact have more drag. Maurice Olley came to Cadillac several years later than 314A. Read about all this in Maurice Hendry's book, When Rolls Royce stopped full manufacturing in Springfield, Englishman Olley met Ernie Seaholm through a letter of introduction . When Seaholm asked what he thought he could do to improve the Cadillacs, Olley said he thought he could help improve the ride. There was a lot of experimenting. Giving the front and back of the car the same spring rate was NOT the answer. Olley said the car "shambled". Skipping back to Duesenberg in 1922-3, Fred and Mr Watson of Watson Stabilators increased the number of leaves in the front springs for the same mass of load. Of course, the Watson Stabilators, like the similar Gabriel Snubbers only damp spring displacement in one direction. Huntington Hartford's friction disc type were easily adjusted, but had the same resistance for up and down movement, which was not ideal. Though my 1918 Series Four Mercer has had Hartfords from when I got it, The 1916 Mercer chassis blueprint clearly shows Houdaille rotary vane and lever type, which had different resistance up-and down because the oil had to be forced through a different one-way valve for up and down. Suitable Houdailles have been relatively plentiful to fit because a lot of army trucks used them during the War.
  4. Ivan Saxton

    Need Help ID a Buffalo Wheel

    I have been told that a couple of less common and intermediate size cars had Houk or Buffalo 4 1/2 hub and wheel centre size. I have never had anything to do with HCS,, but that is possibly one user. The other is Templar; but we have not been able to find front or rear axles for one that is an intended project of my son. I have a pair left and right hand of rear hubs of T Ford size, possibly #2, plus two wheel centres. It is not impractical to make extra wheel centres, and a fanciful possibility to make front hubs and scaled-down Hydraulics in A Duesenberg pattern. If you make a T speedster that might do half an hour in 20 minutes, the design and workmanship needs to be safe at any speed. I know that L.L. Corum's Fronty Ford Speedster finished fifth among a line of Millers in 1923 had no front brakes, But as far as I am concerned, if I make a T Ford speedster that family or friends might drive in modern traffic, It has to be safe.
  5. Ivan Saxton

    1920's Dodge? wooden spoke wheel brake drums

    Some cars in the 1920s had internal expanding brake on the back; often as handbrake in conjunction with external contracting footbrake on the outside of this sort of drum, but with internal expanding on the front. Even the first model Chrysler 6 cyl of about 1924-5, the B model I think, had this arrangement with hydraulic brakes all round. It was much prettier and more desireable than the next model with the "ribbon" Radiator. In 1964 when I worked in a business that did fabricated engineering work, there was a young bloke who was the most dangerous driver I ever knew. In the same town a pensioner had one of those Chryslers in his garage, still in good running order, but retired like himself. I had always wanted one of those to restore, but I had no place to garage it, nor trailer to tow it 250 miles across the state. Now the principle is that if you cannot pick up the plums, you do not shake the tree. Next thing young Barry took it to the tip, and trashed and stripped it till there was not enough to save. Barry destroyed a sequence of good secondhand cars, until tragically, blind drunk and pedal to the floor, he killed a young couple in a head-on prang. ( Yet his German Shepherd dog survived.) Even Cadillac from 1923 to 27 had that sort of brakes, except they were mechanical rather than hydraulic. But Cadillac brakes had greater total lining area than any other car.
  6. Ivan Saxton

    Can anyone help identify this old car frame

    One of my friends up in the Strezlekies about 10 miles away as the the birds fly, has a 1914 Baby Grand Chevrolet beautifully restored. That chassis frame he says would be most likely 1925, which is the only one that has a cast iron crossmember for mounting the front of the engine. Bob says the 1914 - 15 -16 had semi- elliptic front springs, and 3/4 elliptic at the back. Next the 490 model had splayed quarter elliptic spring s, which gave the cars their own handling characteristics, which most people liked little . !925 chassis were as pictured. Most of the early Chev 4s had their own peculiar variation of crankshaft oiling . Obviously it was intended to be an improvement on the "faith and hope" that enough oil splash would find its way in the drill hole at the top of the main bearings. We found some thin enough flat felt sheet. Bob sliced narrow strips and plaited them, so he could push the top end into the oil hole on top of each main bearing. The oil spray would saturate the plaited felt wick.
  7. Ivan Saxton

    Billings?

    You make me disappointed that there was no Billings sign on the chassis frame with axles that I got from Billings Montana in the early /mid 1980s. It was the stripped remains of an early Duesenberg, and it had ended up as a one horsepower job. It must have been a pretty wild horse, because the right front corner of the chassis frame was badly damaged. The identity numbers are important in what you might call the forensic archeology of bare remains; but this one was particularly mysterious. If the brass plate with the eagle on the engine side of the firewall is missing, you can always find the car serial number on the top left face of the front cross-member of an A model Duesenberg. Ray Wolff's listings show that the serial numbers started at #600 or 601, but this one carried the number 333 in the right place. That had been somewhat defaced, and a replacement number 808 was stamped twice nearby. When Alan Powell from Melbourne ordered and received his new A Duesenberg form the factory in 1923 when he was 23, he said they were using parts from a pre-existing car. I had enough to rebuild the two chassis from Mexico; and when Jim Gilmartin from NY needed a chassis frame for his A Duesenberg project, I was able to fabricate the missing sections from new, press-formed channel stock to build an authentic frame for Jim with the leftovers. The other authentic item which I still have from Billings is a Brochure from Yellowstone National Park which my father and mother got from there in 1937.
  8. Ivan Saxton

    Brass Era Car Brake Lining Material Question

    This topic makes me think of the little lizzards we have here, which shed their tail to escape a predator, be it bird or cat. The lizard escapes and grows another tail. The predator eats the small snack, but loses the main part of the menu. You have two friction surfaces to make your brakes work, and expend kinetic energy. Steel is not a brilliant brake material for brake drums. It is inefficient, and it often wears badly. And often when drums are badly worn they can tend to fade badly because if there is not sufficient material , they expand more due to the coefficient of linear expansion. After Cadillac started building their first V16s , the cars would go much better than they could stop. So Cadillac put in special new equipment to make and machine cast iron drums. I have rebuild brake drums for other people, and for my own cars, with a Metco sprayed steel coating called Spraysteel LS. The "LS" stands for "low shrink". It is a work-hardening steel, which has about 6% molybdenum content. The structure of the surface, which is a coalescence of the stream of the molten droplets , gives braking performance very similar to spheroidal graphite cast iron. One friend persuaded me to rebuild the drums of his 1912 English two cylinder Perry . I was not happy that you cold see daylight through his worn drums in places; but the way they were built integral with the hubs there was no alternative. I did the job with no warranty. A good few years later I saw Barry at Bendigo Swap. He said they had the rear axle of the Perry apart, and the drums were perfect. He said that it was the only car in the Veteran Car club with cast iron linings that work properly. I said "Barry, you said you would use modern linings". "Yes I did, he said. Modern cast iron.". Another local friend who had a modern Brake serve business, got me to rebuild the front and rear brake drums of his A model Ford; and the front and rear drums of his 1926 Buick 6 which had contracting band bakes at the back. Peter found that the best lining material to use on the coated drums was the same material he used for modern cars. I never looked for this work because the heat thrown back when I rebuilt brake drums was unpleasant., , And the coating has to be machined at very slow surface speed with tungsten carbide cutting tips so it does not work harden on you. You will find that someone who has an electric spray capability machine which uses an arc between two small diameter wire feeds can rebuild your worn drums much more economically than I ever could , using oxy-acetylene equipment to melt and spray. If you need more details on this you can find the matter defined better in posts I have written before. Regards, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.
  9. Ivan Saxton

    Painting Wire Wheels

    Everyone should be able to do a perfect ,flawless job on this. you need a heavy enough base, with a vertical post to mount a slow motorized driven spindle on which you can clamp cones made out of something like re-constituted wood fibre- based material. ( You will soon have plenty of paint overspray on the cones)., I used a new drive sprocket drum from a WW2 Light M3 Stuart Tank, because there are plenty of them, and they are ideal mass and dimensions. I drive the spindle with a variable speed electric mains powered device called a "Zero-max", which will turn the wheel fast enough at half speed to deter runs in the paint coating. when you have enough paint film thickness, you move the speed lever to maximum, and flying insects will not land on the paint. You let it spin like that until the high-grade 2 pack paint cross-links and hardens. We use a grade that is made for heavy duty trucks. There are spray guns which are ideal for this work, such as the Italian "Walcom Genesi". This sprays at a very low pressure, and has a very high % coating on the wheel, so your mask filtration to protect your lungs from toxic overspray has little work to do, Your job quality is stupendous. I made this not only to paint my own wheels, but also so David Dryden can use it for all his earliest Fords , and so Bob Schuhkraft could paint the wheels of his 1914 Chevrolet "Baby Grand", (which is a very fine antique auto.). It is most beneficial to make one of these so your friends can use it also.
  10. Marty, are they "clincher", which we also call " Beaded Edge"? If so, what is the inside diameter as they sit free on the flat, without being on a rim. I need a set of tyres for my 1911 Napier. It is one that I have had since about 1963. I have done most of the difficult mechanical restoration; and I would really like to be able to tour with it before I get my feet tangled in my beard. Regards, Ivan.
  11. Ivan Saxton

    1928 Stutz Schumacher Special Info Needed

    John Hancox and I have correct Houdaille 2 way dampers for our Series 6 Rochester engined Mercers . They are tough to get apart. Best way is to lock the cover with the 4 jaw independent chuck of a big lathe. then you can bolt a solid bar across the mounting bolt holes in the base. It is probably best to drain whatever oil is inside, and give a dose of ATF with a small addition of Acetone. The purpose of the acetone is not so much to lighten the viscosity of the ATF, but for the Non -polar end to help Wet and lubricate the thread of the cap. If you intend to really work a replacement Stutz engine in the car, it is smart to replace the original light cast main bearing caps with new caps machined form a good alloy steel. Grades that would be adequate include 4140, 4340, and En25. I can look up the analysis of these if you want it. Stutz knew they had problem with the centre main bearing cap. The engine from the Lebaron bodied sedan is engine # 91845, and the casting date is March 1928. The centre main bearing cap has a single strengthening rib. A second engine has a late April/early May casting date, and engine # 92335, The centre main cap has Two strengthening ribs'. Geoff Ringrose in Sydney has been running a BB for decades, with engine # very close to my # 91845. Once on a club run his engine developed a Knock. He shut it down, and had the car carted home on a tilt-tray. The centre main bearing cap was broken.... It is possible that Frank Lockhart was involved when those first few prototype DV32s were planned. All the main bearing caps of mine are massive; possibly 3-4times the strength of standard.. This also means that because the main bearing caps are significantly longer, then the energy stored through stretch in the studs is significally greater... This probably gives us clue to the reason for the Blow-up of the Black Hawk in the match race against the 8 litre short wheelbase Hispano Suiza. If the Stutz broke a main bearing cap, they could not have fixed it. They just had to cross their fingers and keep going ; and say nothing. I am well familiar with Hispano Suizas, and from what he had, 8 authentic cars are now restored, plus 2 with WW1 aero engines. I regard it as probable that HS had commercial reasons to ring-in that light, high speed semi-racing Hispano; But under section 12 of our Commonwealth Competition and Consumer Act, that would constitute Deceptive and Misleading Conduct, which carries a massive penalty. If you would like photos, I would be happy to email them to you A J. I apologise that I do not have a clue how to enter them into the forum: and I just cannot make the time to learn how to do something that does not seem to fit my logic. Regards........... Ivan
  12. Ivan Saxton

    1928 Stutz Schumacher Special Info Needed

    The detail I can pick from the first low-angle shot from the front indicates that the dampers are hydraulic rotary vane Houdaille. By means of different flow rate metering plug sizes for up-and-down axle movement, the damping is much more sophisticated than the friction rotary Hartfords that were also used by Mercer. In September 1980 Ralph Buckley gave me a blueprint of the chassis drawing for the 1916 115" wheelbase Raceabout chassis frame for Mercer, which shows clearly without comment Houdaille shocks. The same Houdaille units were used on a lot of wartime army four wheel drive Ford and maybe also Chev blitz vehicles, though other types may also have been used. The engine photo with the four downdraft carbs is fairly clearly the twin cam DV32. Stutz. In the middle at the top of the block you should find the cast number of the foundry pattern that was used. Near this should be the actual casting date of the engine block. The Stutz engine number was stamped on the horizontal surface behind the distributer on the front right hand side of the engine. The engine number of mine is DV30004. The casting date is ( from memory ) "60 27 28", which indicates 27th of June 1928. It is a late BB pattern casting. There is also cast on the left of the engine block the word SPECIAL which is upside down. Now if you check p261 of John Bentley's book "Great American Automobiles" the statement is that according to its builders, the DV32 incorporated "m the first dual-valve , double -overhead-camshaft principle in a stock car costing under $10,000, introduced after two years of exhaustive tests at Indianapolis Speedway and over the desert and mountain roads of the Southwest"". It is possibility that your car may have another prototype DV32. Another interesting possibility is that the first prototype DV32s could have been running around as un-recognised "sleepers" at the same time as the first prototype J model Duesenberg.
  13. Ivan Saxton

    Water pump packing

    You have to get the shaft right first. That is the essential starting point. Dismantle the water pump, and accurately measure what it should be. Take Photographs so I can see where keyways and woodruff keys go. Also I need to know size and placement of any thread, You need to give me enough information so I can make you a new shaft out of something like 4140 steel. Then what I do is reduce the diameter slightly, build up the section which runs inside the pump with a Metco stainless steel coating. I use an air-hardening phenolic sealer, because the coating is a coalescence of millions of molten droplets on the shaft. Then I grind it between centres to the correct size. The ground finish is very smooth, yet has miniscule pits in the ground surface which I generally wipe over with a suitable Teflon grease. I rebuilt the water pump shaft of a 1920s Rolls Royce Silver Ghost. I gave my friend instructions where to buy new packing, and how to cut and fit it. A couple of years later I saw Des at a swap meet: he told me that the pump leaked just an occasionally on the ground when it was standing, It turned out that Des had forgotten to buy packing form the farm store, and had forgotten to instruct anyone to fit the packing. The new shaft I shall make and post to you will be better and last far longer than a new original shaft, and it will cost you nothing. It is for goodwill. Some people make this type of water pump shaft out of stainless steel, and that gets hot. Regards......
  14. Ivan Saxton

    Turkish delight

    My guess is that the car with wicker baskets on each side at the rear looks a bit like 1903 Ford or Cadillac . They had similar origins. If you had a chance to lie on the floor and count the cylinders you would know. If you saw it running you might know, too. Ford with a "boxer" twin cylinder arrangement should thump and vibrate much less than Cadillac's horizontal single. My friend David Dryden, who lives about 20 minutes away, has superbly restored examples of the first three Ford models; the A of 1903, the C of 1904, and the interim model like the A but with slightly larger bore. If that car is a 1903 Ford, I understand that the wicker basket storage indicates an early A. My knowledge of David's cars is limited by the infrequent need for original components to be rebuilt with thermo-spray coatings , and subsequent machine grinding to size/fit. You always have to appreciate why cars were built the way they were. I have a 1913 "copper pot" Cadillac project; and I would liken them to the early Rolls Royce as a triumph of workmanship over design, only more so. You could liken Cadillac design to that of farm machinery, but built with absolute precision and care. I do not have the computer skill to define the detail where there should be identifiable differences in your photos compared with other photos of cars.
  15. Ivan Saxton

    Turkish delight

    In the 1950s, there was a photo of President Eisenhower on a State Visit having a ride in Mustafa Kamal's V12 KB Lincoln. ( My parents continued a subscription to National Geographic for probably 40 years from when they visited Canada and USA in 1937-8). What happened to the Lincoln of Turkey's war hero , President, and founder of their democracy? That should be centerpiece of every car show there. They visited a big Trade Fair that was in Ottowa or Toronto. At a time when every family in Australia washed their clothes by hand, my mother was obsessed with the latest Show Special deal on the Beattie stainless steel washing machine . The roller wringer would reverse if something jammed, and the forward/reverse bevel gears were zinc diecast did not have great life expectancy. When the washing dried on the outside line, you could lift off the wringer and slip on the wide electrically heated drum ironer. My mother ironed even socks, undercl;othes, handkercheifs and face washers. With this deal there was a step ladder, a stool, and ironing board and rolling pin,, and a pastry board . Full price was 40 Pounds, delivered anywhere. My father asked the attendants if the delivery was indeed, ANYWHERE. They conferred. Where did he live? At a town called Moe, in the Australian State of Victoria. After more discussion , they said "Yes". "That will be No Problem". The whole lot was waiting for them when they arrived home. My mother would have nothing but a Beattie washing machine when the original; needed replacement over 25 years later. I apologise for the non-automotive content. It does show you how people lived and thought then.