Ivan Saxton

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About Ivan Saxton

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  • Birthday 11/04/1940
  1. 1918 Bearcat Starter Motor

    I did find that I made an extra one of those starter motor brush holder sections that carry the outer end of the armature shaft in a decent bearing race. You will have to post definitive photos, and dimensions to confirm the fit. I have those same model numbers from one of my trade source books. The important bit is that there is very little change in the crankcase between the first 4 valve per cylinder T-head of 1918, and the last engines with the detacheable cylinder head. One of my engines is a " K", which, contradictory to what is in the Club's big book has a detacheable head instead of a fixed head engine. The difference in that crankcase relates to a different generator, which is still on the left side of the engine. I do not have photos of the very late detacheable head engine of the Bearcat which Bill Greer used to own; which, if I recall correctly, Bill said was built with left hand driving position. (They must have designed a very different arrangement to have the change lever and handbrake in the middle). That may have been considered a 1924 car......
  2. 1918 Bearcat Starter Motor

    These starters were probably the same through all the 16 valve 4 cylinder cars. The diecast end piece which mounted the brush holders and the outer bearing would eventually dis-integrate because of lead and or cadmium impurities in the zinc casting. The one on Bill Greer's car was a mess. As you remember, Bill was instrumental in starting the Stutz Club, and did the newsletter for years. I fabricated a small batch and machined them out of steel, for my engine, for John Ryder, Fred Edwards, and one for Bill, which I sent him by FEDEX. I am not sure if In have any extra, but I possibly have basic drawings. There is a lot of "knife and fork" work to make one of these. They used the same rubbish alloy to make the cam follower bodies; and when those lock up you cannot turn the engine over.
  3. Lost: Henry Ford Punch Bowl

    I think you need to re-read Sidney Olsen's (sp ?) book " Young Henry Ford" , which was written as many researchers and archivists were sorting the vast mass of material that Mr and Mrs Ford had collected, and which gradually filled most of the rooms in their final home during their twilight years. It is significant that while most reporters who wanted to interview Mr Ford had great difficulty gleaning and recording much of genuine depth or significance; because they just did not understand how to communicate with him, or to ask him the right sort of questions. And everything that he collected was there because it had significance to him. I suggest to you that the most important skill is to teach how to ask oneself questions that are definitive. And the most clever interviewer and reporter, a very perceptive young person, schoolgirl reporter and photographer Ann Hood, was able to elicit from Mr Ford information and opinion of what was most important to him. And you can bet that punchbowl trophy was more significant to Mr Ford than the car he built to win the race, or the insignificant prize-money, no matter whether people considered it artistic or ugly. The car and the race win brought the public esteem and financial support which assisted him to move towards his ultimate objective; though the actual form of that first production car was probably not clear in his mind. Olsen reported that Mrs Ford did not greatly admire the trophy; and wondered to a friend what possible place or use there might be for it.
  4. Has anyone used a Spokeshave by Veritas

    Eye/hand co-ordination are important for shaping, no matter what equipment you use. And a range of honourable, economical, adjustable, oriental profile gauges are important, so you can colour mark with chalk or whatever; so you can continually verify what your eye and instinct tell you. You have to look for a metal spoke shave with a curved surface, so you can shape internal radii. ( You also need to correct the constant wear on the blade surface. Silica, that is, silicon dioxide, has a small but finite solubility product in water, and it is deposited within the wood as the tree pumps water from the soil to its leaves. Silica is an abrasive with greater hardness than the tool steel. If you are used to using a 5 inch angle grinder with appropriate grade of zirconium oxide grit flap wheels, it will do your work more quickly. Dust masks and a dust collection system are adviseable. You need to use new, sharp flap wheels that have not been used on steel. If you are used to using a small angle grinder and flap wheel, you will find it becomes one of the most important pieces of precision equipment in your workshop. ( I have had little or no access to the internet since a dry lighting strike destroyed computers, radios, TV and printer, and all electronic stuff you can think of within the house. It hit the TV antenna, and tracked through all the co-axial cable network in the roof space. The wireless internet antenna in the "wok" on the roof was in a coma for a fortnight before it spontaneously re-awakened; though not without some apparent cognitive impairment. There has not yet been a visit from the ISP. When the insurance helps us replace and set-up the computers, I will be able to view and communicate properly again. I was staning just outside the roof= linewhen I saw the blinding flash with a central streak above me, I can tell I was caught it the electrical wash; but apart from slight memory hesitation for a few days, and re-incidence of slight back pain, I am now fine.) Regards
  5. zenith carburetor mixture adjustment

    I have just laid hand again on my very old and fragile 24 page book, "Hints on Fitting and Adjusting the ZENITH Carburetter. I am asking my son to scan, clean up, and adjust the size so it is easier to use. The publication is 1915, so it should be useful for any instrument also well into the 1920s. Some of the advice is probably also closely applicable to tuning other carburetters on antique automobiles for driving on modern roads with modern fuel. ( In beautiful handwriting on the Title page, is the note that for a Lycoming 4, 135 Compensator jet, 120 Main Jet, 26 Choke, ( which probably means a 26mm venturi ID) , in a # 36 carburetter ( which is probably 36mm flange throat diameter ). When I have made bronze replica Zenith 105DC dual throat updraft Carbs for Stutz, Lancia, or Isotta Fraschini use, I have ground the teeth off a big old flat file, and ground the profile of the venturi throat on the side, with relief under the top cutting edge. ( Almost any antique automobile restoration requires work that can only be done on a lathe: So if you cannot find for yourself a good South Bend Lathe, You will certainly find that an honourable, economical, oriental lathe with Imperial leadscrew will serve you well, and improve the way you deal with problems.)
  6. Sleeving wheel cylinder

    Lancia Aurelias of the 1950s were made with bronze pistons in aluminium bores. The only problem that I have ever had is unavailability of Metric seal sizes to suit. I have had the bores all sleeved with stainless to available inch standard, for instance, 25 emu size is now one inch. I made new bronze pistons to suit the one inch stainless bores. Diameter of pistons is 3 thou less than the bore size. (The thousandth of an inch is the most useful unit of measurement for fits and tolerances. Metric measurements have specific usefulness for scientific purposes. Essentially, you use units of measurement that bear a sensible relationship to what you are dealing with. In the early 1970s, the most ignorant, despotic lawyer politician in our history made law that Australia should convert from imperial to his hero Napoleon's metric measurement system, without referendum. I derisively refer to millimetres as ethnic measurement units, or emus; emus being large flightless birds who function more on instinct than cognitive ability.)
  7. Vintage Briggs mower starting problems

    A number of those little B&S engines that I have seen have no threaded valve clearance adjustment; and the valves recede into their seats until there is not enough compression to run. You can shorten the valve stems slightly to restore tappet clearance by carefully grinding the tips on a bench grinder with suitable care and suitable fine grit wheel if your hand and eye are good and steady enough. You can build up the valve faces with cobalt "Stellite" rods, using an acetylene rich feather on the flame to "wet " the valve face with the filler rod when it starts to "sweat". Then you have to grind the face to the correct angle. Or you can make, fit, and face new valve seat inserts from something like 4140 steel. It depends how much you love your mower. They were built a bit like a cigarette to burn hot for awhile, and then throw away.. Later mowers are bigger and last better.
  8. 1920 Premier

    I understand most Cadillacs through to possibly the updraft carb V16s had Johnson carburettor. These were 2 inch throat size. I have several pages from a contemporary Radco manual scanned into my hard drive so I can readily email them to anyone who needs this. My first car in the early 1960s was a 1927 Cadillac, and I never had problem with running or tuning. The old Cadillac agent here in the 1920s told me that one man bought a new sedan and kept records of fuel used. It consistently averaged 16 miles per gallon over 66,000 miles. You may need to make a new cork float; but there are better coatings that you can use now than shellac. There are essentially only two types of trouble with them: Dirt trouble, and Spanner trouble. Once you set the correct fuel level with respect to the tip of the single jet, it should perform well if everything else is correct. A lot of the control is automatic by bi-metallic strips.
  9. 1927 Peerless boat tail

    It more likely is one of two or more. There was a right hand drive one in Melbourne in the 60s and 70s at least. I shall make a phone call to a friend who did paid work on it, to see if it is still around. Despite the boat-tail body it did not interest me greatly at the time , because my interest is in cars that are more advanced mechanically. I gave away to friends not one, but two Pierce Arrow 6 cylinder L-head model 80s
  10. Gas in a 6.3 litre diesel

    Mike has most of it right, but there are other minor things that I personally would do. To get rid of all petrol, I would also dump any fuel filter cartridge. You can empty any fuel back into the tank before you drain it by blowing back with compressed air. Don't throw away your mixed fuel when you drain it. It would run very well without vapour-lock in an antique car like an early Twin Six Packard, where the big carburettor between the cylinder banks works uncomfortably close to a very hot exhaust manifold on each side. If the engine has starting glow plugs, I would take these out. This will allow you to put a small quantity of light oil or upper cylinder lube in each cylinder, so you can re-lubricate the bores a bit by spinning the engine without compression on the starter; ( and also reduce the starter's effort in running clean fuel back through the system and to the injectors.) The amount of petrol actually in the injectors will be fairly insignificant, but you can give them a little squirt of compressed air to blow anything out of the top. Unless your engine stopped with a clang, clatter, and thump, it is unlikely to have suffered much damage in 60 miles. Petrol should burn nicely mixed with diesel in a compression ignition engine. In fact, it may even have given better conversion of the chemical energy of the fuel to useful power. Most normal diesel engines cannot convert the last 18% of energy in the fuel , and they emit semi-combustion residues in what should be a clean exhaust; even though diesels always run with an excess of oxygen above the theoretically correct mixture. This is why a diesel gives significantly more power, better fuel economy, and a clean, not- polluting exhaust when you provide a controlled sniff of either Liquefied Petroleum Gas or ( stored) Compressed Natural Gas in the intake air ( upstream of the turbocharger if there is one). The engine oil also does not blacken, and you can extend the mileage between oil changes. Several year ago I explained this gas-over-diesel to a young local earthmoving contractor. He got a local mechanic who did gas conversions on petrol vehicles to do an installation on his new turbo diesel four wheel drive. On the chassis dynamometer it put 20% more power through the wheels with the gas switched on . Jim could not tell me what the diesel economy was, because he drove to enjoy the performance. But the contents of the smallest LPG tank available, (five gallons) lasted just on 1000 miles. It could be a useful check to do a compression test while you have the glow plugs out. If the engine will not start and run on good fresh diesel, you may need to have injector pump and injectors overhauled. You may have some petrol in the engine oil, but not enough to cause any harm. Oil dilution was widely and safely used to ease cold starting of piston aero engines in WW2. Now motor racing has always been decorated by notable characters. Now many decades ago here, one of those was Jack Day. Once he successfully prepared a car for a fuel economy competition. He diluted the engine oil as much as he dared with petrol, made the inlet valve stems a very loose fit in their guides, and drove with a very light foot and high intake vacuum. I am always disappointed when useful threads vanish from sight because no-one responds after I have made a contribution. I try to be helpful technically and historically correct, and entertaining; but no explanation is impossible to correct, improve, or clarify. Learning is a process that continues all your life unless you allow yourself to become narrow-minded: so I welcome differing opinions.
  11. Can anyone ID this motor?

    If the radiator is an original match with the engine, it should be traceable through the records of Rome Turney Radiator Co, which should still exist unless they were trashed by the person in California who purchased the company. If someone can access a comprehensive index to Horseles Carriage Club Gazette, you can learn who obtained all the tooling and records. Previous to that , the then elderly owner who had preserved all that and had been involved for very many decades, seemed to indicate that he could still make any new radiator which they had made, exactly as original.. There are two different items you need to look for, possibly several years apart. The previous HCC Gazette editor John C Meyer III may be the best person to ask. I would like to see photos of the inside of the engine. The design and strength of the internal working parts might indicate to us what rev range it was intended to run. I agree the date is very likely beginning of the 1920s. It appears that the projected planes of the cylinders in a narrow angle like the Lancia Lambda intersect below the crankshaft. There is some clever mathematics needed to get that right. There are several features whereby this engine is better than the Lancia Lambda. The exhaust ports for an exhaust manifold on each side of the head is better than Lancia's two exhaust ports at the rear. The Stromberg RF carburettor is nice, but it would be interesting to know the flange diameter. I have gathered a Stromberg OF carb, which has a bronze body and much more sophisticated tuning adjustments than the standard T Ford carbys, but bolts horizontally to the standard intake manifold. That RF is made for much greater air flow on something like a Roof, Rajo, or Frontenac special head for T model. So I guess that the "F" may indicate intended use for Ford. There are 11 cylinder head studs for this engine, compared to just six head studs on the 2.2litre Lambda engine. Head gasket leakage has often been a problem with the Lancia; so much so that a considerable number of up-graded cylinder blocks and heads have been made in recent times to avoid that problem. The engine most similar in style and era to this one is the Drexell, which is noticed in a separate thread below. I am aware of the Drexell through a brief feature of it in one of Stan Yost's books of automotive curiosity in the 1960s. He may have sourced his information from Detroit Public Library, though the Drexall was made in 1917 in Illinois. If you search "Drexell automobile in Google you will see illustration of the 4 cylinder engine with twin overhead camshafts driven by chain. It is said to be 3 1/2"bore and 5"stroke, which is about 190 cubic inch displacement, and it was stated to rev to 3600rpm, which is believable, but getting up there for 1917. The engine was said to be a Farmer, with which I am unfamiliar. The 1916 Farmac car became the Drexell in 1916. One other odd, that is, rare car which had an engine that reportedly had a normal rev range to 4000 rpm in that era was the Phianna. You can also access this by searching "SGV automobile " in Google. The initials stood for Sternberg, Graham, and Van Tyne. The latter as said to have connections with Lancia. The first cars appear to be a very close copy of the 1911 Lancia Delta Such as the one I have. Later ones were copy of the later 4 cylinder Epsilon or Eta models, but with mirror image engines to better suit left hand driving position. Miles Harold Carpenter became involved, and a wealthy friend purchased it for Carpenter to make excellent expensive cars . The overhead valve 6 cylinder engine which he built to replace the Lancia-derived side valve four cylinder jobs had 4 inch bore and stroke, and were claimed to be very smooth at high rpm. Carpenter's autobiographical account of his career was written by him for the Automobilists of the Upper Hudson Valley, and probably extract of that comes up with that Google search for SGV.
  12. Benz manual wanted

    If you get in touch with me, I can give you phone contact details with a similar owner her who has one. George is a public-spirited person who welcomes groups of disabled young people to his property, where he typically gives them rides on his small scale railway; and also gets them to participate in making such confectionary as was his business before his retirement. Unfortunately he can not offer similar experience to groups in his ex-Nazi government 540K Mercedes Benz roadster, or his Type 35 racing Bugatti.
  13. 1920 Cadillac starter/generator bakelite coupling

    I have an original drive shaft with one 1/16" thick ring on each end beside me on the computer desk. It has been removed from the engine of probably my Model 61 by a previous owner. ( The starter-generator shaft will not turn, but the engine turns over by hand. It is sometimes considered beneficial to maintain oil on the surface of cylinder bores of an engine that has not run in a long while.) That shaft is 12 inches long, and the inside diameter I measured locates the shaft accurately on the matching couplings on the engine at the front, and on the starter/generator at the back.
  14. 1920 Cadillac starter/generator bakelite coupling

    The original rings of 1/16"steel sheet give exactly the correct flexibility. The shaft and couplings only drive the generator function of the dynamotor, which is not a heavy power load. Thermo-plastic plastics are not a good choice in proximity to those hot exhaust manifolds in the V between the cylinder blocks, and the exhaust from a low compression ratio L-head without Rickardo combustion chamber design has to get rid of more waste heat than from a later engine.
  15. 1920 Cadillac starter/generator bakelite coupling

    It did not look right to me Matt, I suggest it is a modification by Rube Goldberg, as Jerry Gebby would probably advise you if he was still about. The correct rings are 60 thou thick steel sheet, 2.500 inches outside diameter, and 1.500 inches inside diameter. The two sets of holes are at right angles. They seem to have gone to a lot of trouble to make it wrong. In the mid 1960s, we had a talk at the Vintage Drivers' Club in Melbourne by Phil Irving, who had designed the extraordinary Vincent racing motorcycle engines; and later designed the F1 champion V8 Repco Brabham engines, which were developed out of an aluminium alloy Buick production engine block casting. Someone asked Phil a question about altering engines. His advice was, that you may go to a lot of trouble to change things; and you are likely to find that the designer was right in the first place. If you need to run with those broken Bakelite discs, tighten a screw-thread drive radiator hose clip around the outside. All the best, Ivan