Ivan Saxton

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About Ivan Saxton

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  • Birthday 11/04/1940
  1. I am sure that quote I made about lead-base having a higher pouring temperature was from an English Hoyt Metal book. We might both be partly right, because melting temperature and pouring temperature possibly vary according to different proportion of constituents. One odd alloy, "woods metal", is potentially useful in antique car restoration, for a purpose and process that was used during the war here. Chamberlain brothers were very versatile engineers. They were required to make some quantity of radiator cores for aircraft of square honeycomb core pattern. What you would do today, if you had access to the design parameters for impact extrusion tooling; ( and had, as I have now, a Eurospark electric spark erosion machine, and a suitable Impact press), would be to extrude the square tube, cut to length, and expand the ends to give clear water passages. They cast myriads of pieces of the correct internal shape in woods metal electroplate these formers with copper to the desired wall thickness, and re-cycle the woods metal by melting it out in hot water.. That spin-casting device would be ideal for thin-wall bearings cast directly into A model Duesenberg connecting rods. The reason Duesenberg started to do this for their racing engines is recorded as the discovery, after some bearing failures, that the bronze bearing shells softened close to the failure temperature of the bearing metal itself. Apparently Bugatti discovered the same thing about the same time: But he was interested in using rollers for main and big end bearings, without realising the his rollers, which had large diameter with respect to their their width, were noisy and did not track accurately compared to the needle roller bearings which were used more quietly and successfully by Velocette and others.
  2. I am not keen of the suggestion of LEAD in babbitt. It has always been a No-No, with the single exception that the upper main bearings in a T Ford, (after they lined the top half of T main bearings at all in about 1911). The much higher pouring temperature of the lead-base material apparently gave a better chance that it would stick. It was not considered to have optimal proportions of the constituents in usual tin-based Babbitt . You really want a metallurgical bond, so the lining will not peel out; and so the reliable interface between the bearing and connecting rod conducts way any heat. Of course, the lubricating oil does not only separate the working surfaces, it is also vital for cooling, in particular components such as pistons. I do not greatly admire Duralumin connecting rods with poured babbitt bearings. You are supposed to scratch-tin the surface with a clean scraper, pure tin stick, and a gentle gas flame; then build the thickness of that with the Babbitt alloy to be used. You need to have the alloy and the rod and cap at the precise ideal temperatures so there will be no discontinuity when you pour. But surfaces oxidise very quickly. Within limits you can tell by tapping lightly with a very small hammer. A dull sound means you should melt it out and try again ; and a higher pitch noise signals that the job is probably reasonable. The worst problem with aluminium alloy connecting rods is that the bolts at the correct torsion setting do not stretch within their elastic limits. They compress the alloy so it may crack under the bolt heads. When you are concerned about the indefinite longevity of your Stutz you mill new connecting rods out of 4140 alloy steel or similar, to fit either International or Bedford truck copper-lead bearing shells; but it may be prudent to nitride your crankshaft journals, and run with a full-flow oil filter. Copper-lead does not have embedability like Babbitt, and neither does aluminium, though engines have been satisfactory and reliable with Aluminium alloy connecting rods running directly on the journals. I understand that Catepillar ran aluminium bearing shells for years: (We had a very early D8 at the family sawmill in the mid 1940s, but I was too little to be involved with it personally. That D8 still survives, a friend has it here and two others similar; but Phillip told me that one has a single digit serial number).
  3. what car is this?

    Perhaps late-teens Oakland. Clearly a car built with great care. Look at the square pattern of the radiator core. These were made in two different ways. Megevet in Geneva made radiator cores for a lot of the early Italian cars such as FIAT, Itala, and Isotta Fraschini from impact-extruded square section thin tubes with expanded ends. These were usually very heavy radiators. Sunbeam used similar type, but likely of English manufacture because there is no Megevet brand on my 1913. I have a Haynes radiator core which has similar square pattern, but produced by rolling or stamping brass strip about 7 thou thick. Stutz sometimes used the same type. Some cartridge tube cores were made by casting myriads of formers of the profile in Woods metal; with copper wires in the centre. The tubes were then deposited by electroplating; and the Woods metal was recovered for casting more by melting it out in very hot water.
  4. wanted : Crank shaft Pulley 1923 Moon 6/40

    Nickel bronze is what I would use for that: It is an excellent high bond strength material. When used on cast iron, and tested to destruction, failure is neither in the braze nor the material interface, but in the parent cast iron. You use a soft acetylene-rich flame The job does not get hot enough to form brittle iron carbides. You can skim the outside and sleeve it if you like, but it should not be necessary. Tom Reese' restoration methods and philosophies is Antique Automobile of the 60s-70s are worth studying. His presentation of the war-time army field repair protocol, "Inspect; Repair or Replace As Necessary " is good sense and good economy.
  5. Help needed to further document a recently acquired 1920 Stutz Model H 7 passenger

    The sort of event that may have caused someone to abandon the car as salvage is failure of the protection that is supposed to stop two gears being engaged simultaneously. The lock-out is supposed to be by flat blade springs which prevent the change lever swinging from first/reverse to intermediate/top. Most likely mishap is second being engaged when first gear pair are still in mesh. The consequences for transaxle housing and gears can be catestrophic. With the project I gathered years ago, nothing came to me of the housing except the very small bit which carried the selector shafts and the selector forks still on them. The cluster gear shaft has the gears assembled onto the shaft as neat fit, with each gear assembled to the shaft with two large woodruff keys at 90 degrees. Without going to look, those half-moon keys must be around 5/16 to 3/8 inch thick. These are generally not much better than mild steel, but it still requires a very severe impact to shear two such woodruff keys cleanly at the interface of gear and cluster shaft. That is probably why the survival of those T-head 4 cylinder Stutz engines is so much higher than that of the transaxles. In the beginning I had seven engines, and some remains of one transaxle. I gave one extra engine to a friend of long standing, Fred Edwards; and sold others cheaply to people who mostly showed themselves to be graceless and un-deserving. ( The worst was one in New ------------. I offered, gratis, to crate the engine for transport; and deliver it to whichever transport company depot I Melbourne he chose. That was about 90 miles distant from me, on the far side of the state capital. Several weeks later I was billed by his freight company for his freight. I spoke to a lady there, and had copies of the correspondence faxed to her, and she told me she was able to deal with rogues like that.) About 1980 Paul Freehill had casting patterns made, and then had high strength heat treated aluminium castings made by Foley Pattern Company in Auburn Indiana, and had them machined somewhere. I understand someone bought his remaining stock form Ann. If you cannot find the person through the Stutz Club , I can get the name and address from Fred Edwards, who visited the man several years ago. When you fix it, Make sure the interlock between the two selector shafts is absolutely accident -proof.
  6. old stored vintage tires , useable ?

    In late 1969, with the help of a friend, I did a rebuild for road use, in 4 1/2 months, of the car I used for the 1970 FIVA "International Rally" from Sydney(New South Wales), back to Melbourne ( Victoria). My tyres then were only good enough to stand it up. So I was very pleased when Goodyear here in Australia issued a promotional brochure. "Christmas is Cartime at Goodyear. Right up to '69 -- no matter what you drive -- we'll get you set for the holidays". So I ordered a set of six with new tubes. There was a Mercer L-head photograph for 1922, it was a Raceabout, but the same 6.00x23" tyres as I needed for my 1918 Mercer Sporting. They have still not supplied my new tyres to this day; though the local Goodyear Tyre Service manager investigated, and said they still had the 6.00x23"moulds. I managed to buy enough 8 ply tyres that had been replaced on fire trucks in Sydney. I always ran them with about 60psi so the sidewalls did not overheat by flexing, and destroy the cords. I never had a blow-out. On fire trucks they would not have received much degradation from ultraviolet light exposure. Nor much mileage wear either. I was told they were over 30 years old. But the long established tyre dealer felt they were good enough to keep someone else rolling. A couple of lifetime limiting factors are the additives in the rubber, and the material of the reinforcing woven structure. Most of the aircraft tyres that we had from war surplus had Rayon. This was probably fine at the time. But a friend got some small tail-wheel tyres from me because he knew people who needed them. That was good until the RAAF carried one as a spare inside an aircraft, and apparently took it to an altitude where the inflation pressure proved enough to explode it due to the degraded rayon inside where it was invisible. And some filler pigments may not well protect the rubber well from UV light. I could not support any general recommendation on this subject. How fast did I travel in the Mercer? I do not know because the speedometer was not restored or connected. I drove the car at the speed it wanted to cruise. And Morris Burrows told me later that "Mercers do not like parades". One day on that 1970 tour a girl wanted to ride with me on one morning stage. Her family were running in a modern car to enjoy seeing the antiques. They said that they left ten minutes after me, and only caught up at the lunch stop.
  7. British Retractable "Coo-pay"

    I don't think you can tell which of the alternative engine an Allard was fitted with. A Cadillac V8 was the biggest, with more mass in front, but a beautiful smooth and powerful engine. A side-valve Ford or Mercury V8 was probably most common, but a Ford with Zora Arkus- Duntov's pushrod overhead valve conversions hemi-head appealed to me as most exciting when I was a kid at school. Those Ardun ohv heads were very desireable then, and with a CNC router for pattern work, you could probably er-make them with a lot of effort. I like to think that if those heads had been available and could have been used in the ten beautiful Miller Fords that Harry made for Edsel for the Indianapolis 500, the steering boxes would not have overheated and seized; and the cars might have been a howling success.
  8. 1906 Pope-Toledo

    The timing of the Ad is very retarded. Maybe it was set by Rip van Winkle. Seriously, for cars of just 2 years earlier than this, You can find quite a lot of very fine re-publication copies of the 1904 NY show catalogue of gasoline automobiles. The prices are derisory, which indicates that no-one is aware of it. Ken Purdy arranged the re-publication. I found it by looking for Ken Purdy's titles on the internet, and it was an extraordinary treasure for just five dollars. One car that was covered was the Orient; and one of my friends restored one, and ran it reliably for several decades. Also, another mutual friend restored one and used to run it on tours, and Ray Whyte retained his interest and affection for the Orient long after circumstances forced him to part with it.. Ray was having a bad time with radiotherapy for Merkel Cell Carcinoma, and he was told that the cessation of that treatment would be like withdrawal from narcotic addiction. So I bought another copy and posted it on to Ray. Sudy of that gave him enormous relief and distraction at a very difficult time. I cheekily suggested that he may have erred in restoring the car as a 2 person Orient Buckboard, rather than a 4 person Orient Surrey; because that would have allowed three passengers instead of one to push it uphill. Ray was a witness to a lot of important Australian history, because as a very senior and experienced Commonwealth Police Officer,, he was bodyguard to five Prime Ministers, and the Governor General who had the reason and fortitude to dismiss the man who has caused huge economic and social harm to this country. Ray was the sole compulsory un- biased witness on that day If you cannot find that book Steve, I will tell you how to do so by Private Message.
  9. 1929 STuTZ Blackhawk Differential Lube

    The Stutz worm drive gears were Timken, "FJ "profile if I correctly remember what was on the copy of the original drawing s that we managed to obtain about 40 years ago to have some 4:1, and 4.25:1gear sets made for open cars and heavy sedans appropriately. We had to source another set of blueprints when the first samples were made; because the first ones were for L6-L8 models Blackhawk (one word). So both were made to orders. There was a difference in vertical height between axis centres between worm and the drive axles to the rear wheels of something like quarter or half an inch. The road condition and cruising speeds are quite different now from when the cars were new, and the cars are happier geared accordingly. New gear sets cost us A $500 in the mid 1970s, and I wish I had the cash then for more than one. The highest ratio on the drawings was for 3 and five eighths to one, and that might be best for the 1928 SPECIAL prototype DV32, ( engine # 30004, casting date June 27, 1928), once I can contrive to set it up with camshafts, camshaft bearings, and alloy steel conrod such as it had originally. Mike Holt in UK had new gearsets made, but I do not know what ratios. Ancient local advice was that some owners used castor oil for these rear axles (Ricinis). This tends to crosslink with age and inactivity into a very powerful varnish. ( The engine of my Roamer Duesenberg had last been used with castor oil in the 1920s, and this was very hard to get apart. Stuart Middlehursts 6.5 litre OHC 'Hispano Suiza was even harder to dismantle for restoration.) We are better to rely on Penrite.
  10. Question about the Octoauto

    Reeves did subsequently produce a much more useful invention, which was a stepless variable ratio V-belt drive. As the axial distance between the two pulleys was varied, the ratio varied according to the radius at which the wide V-belt gripped the spring-loaded variable pulley. I picked up a couple of different ones which did not carry his name at a machinery auction once, but I do not think the power rating is huge. I have never tried to use either. On the tandem rear axles, it is unlikely he would have had steering unless on a lazy axle at the very back. The advantage would likely have been only for tyre makers.
  11. Odd looking roadster pickup...maybe European?

    About that period Morris used about a 250+ cubic inch 6 cylinder Saurer diesel engine, with as strong aluminium alloy main engine casting, with a cast iron head. The injectors were unusual in that instead of spray holes in the tip, the end cap lifted for a ring spray of fuel. The exhaust could be smokey, but you would fix that now with 5 to 7 % of LPG in the intake air to catalise the complete burning of the diesel , and almost complete utilisation of the energy in the fuel. This gives more power and better economy, with very little in the way of toxic product of incomplete combustion. I never got to use one as I once planned, and there are a couple of engines and gearboxes here, and no owner has been interested enough to look. They fitted a much larger Morris Commercial than those little shopping trolleys.
  12. Slotless screwdriver needed...anyone have one?

    That screw does not look to be self-drilling; if so it would need a pilot hole unless used on fairly soft material. What I would look for or make would be something on the principal of those eccentric roller type stud removers, with roller ends protruding slightly beyond the end of the barrel that contains them. That might be fine to secure your matting as shown. Taking them out would be difficult without damaging the head circumference by tight end-grip of what I think you call "vyce grips", but which here in Australia are always referred to as "--gger-nuts",(because that is what they do).
  13. Please ID early car

    It seems that particular bumper was a common aftermarket apology for two wheel brakes. It reminds me that Roy Grey, the second owner of Alan Powell's A model Duesenberg here in Melbourne for about 40 years, told me that during the war, the garage of his then home was too short for the Duesenberg with both front and back bumper bars attached. Those beautiful hydraulic brakes were possibly the best on any car for many decades. Roy said he would never run into the back of anyone, but there was always risk he could be hit from behind. So he removed the front bumper to fit the car to the garage; and it was somehow lost.
  14. Restoring cracked/broken cast manifolds?

    Brazing is not recommended, because is has a very different coefficient of linear expansion. In the early 1970s we had a very rough AS160 Inter tip truck on the farm. It did a lot of work shifting clay from around the dams to make a raft track across the peat swamp to the paddocks on the other side . The exhaust manifold was broken right through. I used about 15% diesel in the petrol to prevent vapour lock in the fuel lines. Eventually the engine became lazy to the point of uselessness, about 1974. I pulled the head off and faced the valves. The exhausts I rebuilt with Elwood Haynes' cobalt "Stellite" alloy. The pistons had a lot of rock across the thrust , so I had them expanded by a selective hammering process, and blessed it with new set of piston rings. We continued to use it till my father sold the farm. Stuart Middlehurst had a similar Inter in a secondary transport business, which was used a lot because he fitted one of the first hydraulic self-loading cranes. That was very handy for our antique cars. ( Stuart was interested in Hispano Suizas, and ten still exist if you count two with aero V8 Hispano engines in Hispano chassis.) Well, that engine died, and the truck needed to work, so Stuart took the one from the paddock tipper, and it never faltered in over 20 years. My welded exhaust manifold was still on it. I used a new manifold gasket to drill holes in a solid piece of rolled steel joist to keep it straight. It was just a case of suitably grinding the joint, bring it all up near welding temperature evenly, and weld it with an oxy-acetylene torch of suitable tip size, using cast iron filler rod about 3/16"diameter, and cast iron welding flux. I can check the details, and know people who would know what was in the flux. today I would cover it with high temp fibreglass matting to cool slowly. I think I used an acetylene-rich flame. It is probably sensible to grind away a bit of the surface that may likely to be contaminated by lead from the petrol.