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About c49er

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  • Birthday 09/18/1954


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    Mechanic/welder do it all-er

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  1. c49er

    1948 Chrysler Windsor problems

    Buy one done as cost of restoring one will run your bank account dry. ^^^^^^^^^^
  2. c49er

    Overdrive question for '37 Airflow

    You should join the National Airflow club. I'm positive all the questions you have would be answered by those folks.
  3. How about a cold re-torque? I've done that too. The head on a flat head engine IMO should be carefully re-torqued after the initial run in.. All the MoPars I work on are all mid 30's up through the early 60's. I don't want leaks or cracks🙂
  4. I'd say go maybe less after reading about@RichBad and his woe's too!
  5. I will say this... I know a person who has a C2 Airflow. . It had the 323 Straight 8... he torqued the head nuts to 70 lbs.( 7/16" X 20 studs and nuts)... head replacement... On the middle to rear drivers side of the block slightly below the studs a 3" long crack appeared a couple weeks later. The over tightened studs pulled up the top deck of the block. The block since has been "Lock-N-Stitched and now is fine. I'd be careful especially on the old engines so as not to over stress the castings... JMO.🙂
  6. I use the values specified in the factory Chrysler,Dodge,DeSoto and Plymouth shop manuals when working on these MoPar cars... Head studs with nuts are a lower torque value as shown on the six engines and also the same on the eights if studs are used. On the eights
  7. c49er


    Air in the system burped out.
  8. c49er

    1946 fluid drive throw out bearing just died yes or no?

    Some more things to look at.... Fluid Drive coupling bellows seal possibly leaking oil on the clutch.. You need to also look at the two input shaft bushings in the FD coupling ...check for excessive wear. You also need to check for the alignment of the clutch fork to throw out bearing... there is a ball stud pivot that can sometimes snap off. This will prevent proper clutch fork to release bearing operation.
  9. c49er

    54 windsor universals

    A picture of the style U-Joint your car uses would probably help others know what one you need. There are two styles in 1953-54 Chrysler Windsors.... One style uses two curved bolt on clamps to retain the U-joint to the mount flange...I call them the bat wing style The other style U-joint uses somewhat typical round joint caps that are retained by U-shaped retainer clips... the end caps have a slot or groove across them.
  10. c49er

    1950 Imperial

    Starters on the straight 8 Chrysler's can be troublesome after many years of service but.... check those battery cables! This if it cranks over slow. They need to be thick... not cheap Chinese low strand count replacements. If the cables are old, or too small I recommend using # 2 welding cables made up with commercial grade terminals. But first as mentioned some proper tests need to be done...voltage drop/ amp draw etc. Your Chrysler starter is a tough one to find parts for... even for the re-builders so don't just assume that's the trouble. You'll have more when you find out how expensive that starter repair can be or if you even find parts say like a solenoid. That alone could be 3-$400.00!!!! Don't throw parts at it. This from a guy who has had and still does own several 1946-52 eight cylinder Chrysler's. Good luck... you will get it fixed!
  11. c49er

    53 pontiac clutch stuck

    Set the E-brake or hold the brakes on...Push the clutch pedal in, shift the car into 3rd... bump the starter and see if it will brake loose... the clutch disc that is... That's how i do it.
  12. This....Less than $14.00 shippedhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-41-42-46-47-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-MoPar-Gearshift-Rod-RUBBER-Plymouth-Dodge/142219302005?hash=item211cee5475:g:7jIAAMXQBNlRhYeP
  13. Roberts, Bernbaum or Neil Riddle will have that rubber bushing.... Google them.